Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134m), 2024

SUPER ECONOMY - 250 USD

ECONOMY - 450 USD

ECONOMY PLUS - 650 USD

BUSINESS MINI - 900 USD

BUSINESS - 1250 USD

BUSINESS PLUS - 1400 USD

GUIDED GROUP - 2000 USD COMFORT PLUS - 3990 USD

WITH OXYGEN - 6320 USD

VIP - 14880 USD

/ Business option /


from 1250$

Lenin Peak

Lenin Peak (7,134m/ 23,406ft) is one of the world’s most famous seven-thousanders, easily of accessed and hence most frequented summit in the Pamirs. Lenin Peak is located in the Trans-Alay Range of the Pamir Mountains on the Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan border and included in the Snow Leopard mountaineering award.

It must be kept in mind that climbing a peak over 7,000 m high in severe weather conditions, in the midst of glacial crevasses is definitely categorized as high-altitude climbing and classified as an extreme activity entailing significant risks to climber’s health and life. In order to succeed a climber must be in a good physical shape, have appropriate climbing gear and skills and should have previous climbing experience (5000 m+).

We have our own comfortable base camps at the foot of Lenin Peak: “Edelweiss Meadow” Base Camp (3600 m) and “Solnechniy” Camp 1 (4400 m). We guarantee your comfort, safety, cleanliness, vast dining menu, and the highest of service when staying in our base camps. In addition, we offer accommodation in our stationary high-altitude camps with installed tents and 24/7 presence of the duty staff at an altitude of 5300 m and 6100 m.

You can get to the Base camp (3600 m) in 5 hours by a comfortable transfer departing from the city of Osh.
Join the Lenin Peak expedition!

To visit the Lenin Peak area it is obligatory to obtain border passes. Please send your documents 20 days in advance.

Transfer Osh - Base Camp and return transfer Base Camp - Osh are possible at any convenient dates.

  • Economy option
    - 400 USD/1 pax
  • Business option
    - 1000 USD/1 pax
  • Combined group option
    - 1800 USD/1 pax
  • VIP option
    - 5510 USD/1 pax
  • How to get there.
    Visas, Permits.
    Route Map
Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak
Day 1 Arrival in Osh. Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 2 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 5 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 7 ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 8 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 9 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 10 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 15 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 18 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 19 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Super Economy":

Osh - Osh 250 USD

The cost of the package includes:

Transfers:
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Base Camp in your tents for any period
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in your tents for any period
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Services for an additional fee:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
  • Accommodation in Base Camp (3600 meters) and Camp 1 (4400 meters) in spacious camping tents
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents
  • Meals - in BC and C1 - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Sauna in the Base camp (3600 meters)
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • High-altitude cookware set
  • Guide service
  • Porter service
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents in the Camp 2 (5300 meters) and Camp 3 (6100 meters)
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Osh. Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 2 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 5 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this Ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 8 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 9 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 10 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 15 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 18 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 19 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Economy":

Osh - Osh 450 USD
SGL accommodation +105 USD

The cost of the package includes:

Transfers:
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp (2 days) in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board (2 days): 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 (2 days) in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board (2 days): 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Services for an additional fee:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents
  • Meals in C1 – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Sauna in the Base camp (3600 meters)
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Guide service
  • Porter service
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents in the Camp 2 (5300 meters) and Camp 3 (6100 meters)
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Osh. Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 2 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 5 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 8 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 9 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 10 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 15 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 18 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 19 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "ECONOMY PLUS":

Osh - Osh 650 USD
SGL accommodation +180 USD

The cost of the package includes:

Transfers:
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp (7 days) in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board (7 days): 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 (4 days) in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board (4 days): 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Services for an additional fee:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Sauna in the Base camp (3600 meters)
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Equipment rental
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Personal guide service
  • Porter service
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents in the Camp 2 (5300 meters) and Camp 3 (6100 meters)
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

  • Osh - Osh
    900 USD
  • Tashkent - Tashkent
    1140 USD
  • Bishkek - Bishkek
    1160 USD
Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Osh. Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 2 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 5 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 8 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 9 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 10 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), Ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 15 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 18 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 19 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Business mini":

Osh - Osh 900 USD
SGL accommodation +215 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Equipment rental
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Personal guide service
  • Porter service
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents in the Camp 2 (5300 meters) and Camp 3 (6100 meters)
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Tashkent. Transfer by car: Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, Ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport.

Day 21 Transfer from Osh to Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 22 Departure from Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Business mini":

Tashkent - Tashkent 1140 USD
SGL accommodation +255 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Tashkent
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfer Tashkent - Osh - Tashkent
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Equipment rental
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Personal guide service
  • Porter service
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents in the Camp 2 (5300 meters) and Camp 3 (6100 meters)
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.
Transfer to the hotel.

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport.

Day 21 Transfer from Osh to Bishkek.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 22 Departure from Bishkek.

Sunset in the Pamirs

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Business mini":

Bishkek - Bishkek 1160 USD
SGL accommodation +255 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Bishkek
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Domestic flights Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Equipment rental
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Personal guide service
  • Porter service
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents in the Camp 2 (5300 meters) and Camp 3 (6100 meters)
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

  • Osh - Osh
    1400 USD
  • Tashkent - Tashkent
    1640 USD
  • Bishkek - Bishkek
    1660 USD
Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Osh. Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 2 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 5 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 8 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 9 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 10 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 15 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 18 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 19 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Business plus":

Osh - Osh 1400 USD
SGL accommodation +410 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Accommodation in set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
Group equipment rental: Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Equipment rental
  • Personal guide service
  • Porter service
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Tashkent. Transfer by car: Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport.

Day 21 Transfer from Osh to Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 22 Departure from Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Business Plus":

Tashkent - Tashkent 1640 USD
SGL accommodation +450 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Tashkent
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfer Tashkent – Osh – Tashkent
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
Group equipment rental: Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Equipment rental
  • Personal guide service
  • Porter service
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.
Transfer to the hotel.

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and Ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.
Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.
Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.
Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 21 Domestic flight Osh - Bishkek.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Transfer to the airport. Domestic flight to Bishkek. Meeting at the airport of Bishkek. Transfer and check-in at the hotel after
14:00. Leisure time.
Meals: breakfast.
Overnight at the hotel

Day 22 Departure from Bishkek.

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the package "Business Plus":

Bishkek - Bishkek 1660 USD
SGL accommodation +450 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Bishkek
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Domestic flights Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian:
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
Group equipment rental: Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Equipment rental
  • Personal guide service
  • Porter service
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

  • Osh - Osh
    15950 USD
  • Tashkent - Tashkent
    16190 USD
  • Bishkek - Bishkek
    16210 USD
Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Osh in the morning. Drive from Osh to the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak (280 km, 5 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Located in South KyrgyzstanOsh is often referred to as ‘the southern capital’. It is the country’s second largest city. Once you arrive in Osh, you will meet kind and hospitable people and see green busy streets with a lot of cozy cafes.

It will take 5-6 hours to get to Yurt Camp (Base Camp of Lenin Peak) in a comfortable motor vehicle along Pamir Highway (M41 highway). Almost immediately beyond the city the terrain becomes hilly, as if informing us of what we are to expect further on the way. And the further we went, the more grandiose and magnificent everything around us was becoming. After you have moved over Taldyk Mountain Pass (3,600 m), you will see the stunning scene of Alay Valley with the majestic snow-capped Zaalay Range of the Pamirs towering over it. The Alay Valley is characterized by extensive green fields, marmots occasionally running across the road, grazing horses, a bottomless sky and blue mountain chains on the horizon.

Upon arrival at the Base Camp (3,600 m) on Edelweiss Glade you will be accommodated in comfortable base tents equipped with wooden floors and electricity (bedclothes are also provided). More of a hotel-room-sans-conveniences (located just outside) than a tent our participants are often pleasantly surprised.

The "Edelweiss Glade" BC is the largest one at the Achik Tash Tract and is the final point where it’s possible to trust the wheels of your off-road Jeep. Here’s the end of the “easy going” - your transport relies on your feet only from here on out!

Base Camp (3,600 m) is a complex of structures with all that’s necessary for comfortable dwelling: tents, kitchen, vapor bath, a number of toilets, a volleyball playing field, and most importantly a number of warm yurts (heated every day!), which can be used either as a dining-room or potentially a dancing hall!

Day 2 Acclimatization ascent to Petrovsky Peak ridge (4,730 m).

Distance covered during the day: 14-15 km.
Altitude difference:
+1,130м; -1,130m.
Altitude of the lowest point (Base camp)
: 3,600m according to the GPS
Altitude of the highest point (Petrovskiy Peak):
4,730 m according to the GPS
Category of difficulty:
I (F)

Step 1: Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow; traversing the Achik Tash River Valley crosswise; crossing the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River; approaching the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge.

Step 2: Starting to climb the slope towards Petrovsky Peak; the steepness of the slope reaches 35° in some places; getting onto the ridge and further along it on a long path; the relief consists of grassy slopes, which then pass into a mixture of grass and scree and then scree alone.

Step 3: As you reach the portion of the route consisting of mixed rocks and snow, you must put on belay systems, crampons and high gaiters and make your ice-axe ready at hand; the guide carries the main rope; attention: the slope’s steepness reaches 50° in places.

Step 4: As soon as you reach the snow-and-ice portion of the slope, you must make rope teams (if the guide regards it necessary to do so); from this moment on you must set the pace by the weakest member of your group; all the members of the group must climb close to each other; as the team reaches Petrovsky Peak, all must stay together, no one is allowed to detach from the body of the group; the group may stay on the summit for 20 to 30 minutes, in case there is no wind; in windy weather people must not remain there for more than 10 minutes; climb the mountain in thunderstorm or snowfall is strictly prohibited.

Step 5: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it; the descending technique consists in doing what you did when you were ascending, only in reverse order.
Congratulations on your First Summit of the Pamirs!

Day 3 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

The ascent to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the physical conditions of the participants. It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered. Take a deep breath of air into your lungs as the panoramic view that opens up before you from the “Marmots’ Glade” lying just below the pass is astonishing. Local residents of the glade - marmots - whistling out different tunes dart in and out their holes, heedless of observing visitors.

Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes.

Total ascent time is about 3 to 4.5 hours.

Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. In 2007’s season we have managed to couple (!) two yurts - an achievement unheard of even by experienced Kyrgyz shepherds!

The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee. Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance!

You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents.

Day 4 Training on ice: the technique of climbing glaciers and snow-covered slopes as a roped-up team, belaying on snow, climbing and descending on a fixed rope, etc.

Photo, base camp, adventure tour, mountaineering, trekking in the Pamir mountains. Lenin peak area. Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Ascent to Camp 2. Lenin peak

Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow (80m-long stretch, gradient 35-40 degrees) using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag. Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream (factor 25 and higher)! We then traverse the slope keeping to the right aiming at the plateau colloquially known as “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan). Cross the “Skovoroda” to reach Camp 2 (6 to 7 hours).

If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.

Day 6 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 5700 m.



From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to Camp 3. Lenin peak

From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 8 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 6200 – 6300 m.



Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 9 Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 10 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak

Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. Luckily enough there’s some ready and waiting for you at Camp 1! A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. Certainly a place difficult to become/remain bored in. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie... One may well take the motto hanging from the yurt flap t heart: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time. The yurt closes at 23:00 PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning.

Day 11 Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

Descent to Base Camp (3600 m). Lenin peak

Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattress) and have a delicious piece of freshly cooked lamb. This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is.

Day 12 Reserve day in case of bad weather.



In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town. Most likely a day to remember!

Day 13 Drive from the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak to Osh.

Taldyk pass. Lenin peak

Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection.

Day 14 The end of the program. Departure from Osh.

Sunset in the Pamirs

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.
In the VIP Option you are allowed to stay at the Base Camp for up to 5 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of your return ticket date, without additional payment for lodging and meals, in which case, however, you will have to pay extra for the guide’s additional service (in excess of 16 days).

The cost of the tour for "VIP with oxygen" option:

Osh - Osh 15950 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Osh
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Individual transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
  • Lunchboxes on the way Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious yurt. Every yurt are equipped with:
    • private bathroom (shower, toilet, hot/cold water)
    • individual heaters
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • furniture and appliances (wardrobe, table, electric kettle, hair dryer)
    • towels.
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Laundry service
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious tent. Every tent is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses and bedding
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Mobile sauna
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Single accommodation in tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Meals in Camp 2 and Camp 3
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Assistant guide (second guide) during the entire ascent program
  • Porter service
    • C1 - C2 - C3 - C4 and the way back - 50 kg.
  • Rent of oxygen equipment
  • Rent of oxygen cylinders
Personal equipment rental:
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Tashkent. Transfer by car: Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

Day 2 Drive from Osh to the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak (280 km, 5 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Located in South KyrgyzstanOsh is often referred to as ‘the southern capital’. It is the country’s second largest city. Once you arrive in Osh, you will meet kind and hospitable people and see green busy streets with a lot of cozy cafes.

It will take 5-6 hours to get to Yurt Camp (Base Camp of Lenin Peak) in a comfortable motor vehicle along Pamir Highway (M41 highway). Almost immediately beyond the city the terrain becomes hilly, as if informing us of what we are to expect further on the way. And the further we went, the more grandiose and magnificent everything around us was becoming. After you have moved over Taldyk Mountain Pass (3,600 m), you will see the stunning scene of Alay Valley with the majestic snow-capped Zaalay Range of the Pamirs towering over it. The Alay Valley is characterized by extensive green fields, marmots occasionally running across the road, grazing horses, a bottomless sky and blue mountain chains on the horizon.

Upon arrival at the Base Camp (3,600 m) on Edelweiss Glade you will be accommodated in comfortable base tents equipped with wooden floors and electricity (bedclothes are also provided). More of a hotel-room-sans-conveniences (located just outside) than a tent our participants are often pleasantly surprised.

The "Edelweiss Glade" BC is the largest one at the Achik Tash Tract and is the final point where it’s possible to trust the wheels of your off-road Jeep. Here’s the end of the “easy going” - your transport relies on your feet only from here on out!

Base Camp (3,600 m) is a complex of structures with all that’s necessary for comfortable dwelling: tents, kitchen, vapor bath, a number of toilets, a volleyball playing field, and most importantly a number of warm yurts (heated every day!), which can be used either as a dining-room or potentially a dancing hall!

Day 3 Acclimatization ascent to Petrovsky Peak ridge (4,730 m).

Distance covered during the day: 14-15 km.
Altitude difference:
+1,130м; -1,130m.
Altitude of the lowest point (Base camp)
: 3,600m according to the GPS
Altitude of the highest point (Petrovskiy Peak):
4,730 m according to the GPS
Category of difficulty:
I (F)

Step 1: Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow; traversing the Achik Tash River Valley crosswise; crossing the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River; approaching the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge.

Step 2: Starting to climb the slope towards Petrovsky Peak; the steepness of the slope reaches 35° in some places; getting onto the ridge and further along it on a long path; the relief consists of grassy slopes, which then pass into a mixture of grass and scree and then scree alone.

Step 3: As you reach the portion of the route consisting of mixed rocks and snow, you must put on belay systems, crampons and high gaiters and make your ice-axe ready at hand; the guide carries the main rope; attention: the slope’s steepness reaches 50° in places.

Step 4: As soon as you reach the snow-and-ice portion of the slope, you must make rope teams (if the guide regards it necessary to do so); from this moment on you must set the pace by the weakest member of your group; all the members of the group must climb close to each other; as the team reaches Petrovsky Peak, all must stay together, no one is allowed to detach from the body of the group; the group may stay on the summit for 20 to 30 minutes, in case there is no wind; in windy weather people must not remain there for more than 10 minutes; climb the mountain in thunderstorm or snowfall is strictly prohibited.

Step 5: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it; the descending technique consists in doing what you did when you were ascending, only in reverse order.
Congratulations on your First Summit of the Pamirs!

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

The ascent to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the physical conditions of the participants. It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered. Take a deep breath of air into your lungs as the panoramic view that opens up before you from the “Marmots’ Glade” lying just below the pass is astonishing. Local residents of the glade - marmots - whistling out different tunes dart in and out their holes, heedless of observing visitors.

Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes.

Total ascent time is about 3 to 4.5 hours.

Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. In 2007’s season we have managed to couple (!) two yurts - an achievement unheard of even by experienced Kyrgyz shepherds!

The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee. Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance!

You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents.

Day 5 Training on ice: the technique of climbing glaciers and snow-covered slopes as a roped-up team, belaying on snow, climbing and descending on a fixed rope, etc.

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Ascent to Camp 2. Lenin peak

Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow (80m-long stretch, gradient 35-40 degrees) using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag. Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream (factor 25 and higher)! We then traverse the slope keeping to the right aiming at the plateau colloquially known as “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan). Cross the “Skovoroda” to reach Camp 2 (6 to 7 hours).

If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.

Day 7 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 5700 m.



From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to Camp 3. Lenin peak

From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 9 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 6200 – 6300 m.

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 10 Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 11 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak

Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. Luckily enough there’s some ready and waiting for you at Camp 1! A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. Certainly a place difficult to become/remain bored in. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie... One may well take the motto hanging from the yurt flap t heart: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time. The yurt closes at 23:00 PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning.

Day 12 Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

Descent to Base Camp (3600 m). Lenin peak

Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattress) and have a delicious piece of freshly cooked lamb. This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is.

Day 13 Reserve day in case of bad weather.



In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town. Most likely a day to remember!

Day 14 Drive from the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak to Osh.

Taldyk pass. Lenin peak

Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection.

Day 15 Transfer from Osh to Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 16 Departure from Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.
In the VIP Option you are allowed to stay at the Base Camp for up to 5 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of your return ticket date, without additional payment for lodging and meals, in which case, however, you will have to pay extra for the guide’s additional service (in excess of 16 days).

The cost of the tour for "VIP with oxygen" option:

Tashkent - Tashkent 16190 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Tashkent
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfers Tashkent – Osh – Tashkent
  • Individual transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
  • Lunchboxes on the way Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious yurt. Every yurt are equipped with:
    • private bathroom (shower, toilet, hot/cold water)
    • individual heaters
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • furniture and appliances (wardrobe, table, electric kettle, hair dryer)
    • towels.
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Laundry service
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious tent. Every tent is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses and bedding
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Mobile sauna
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Single accommodation in tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Meals in Camp 2 and Camp 3
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Assistant guide (second guide) during the entire ascent program
  • Porter service
    • C1 - C2 - C3 - C4 and the way back - 50 kg.
  • Rent of oxygen equipment
  • Rent of oxygen cylinders
Personal equipment rental:
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh. Transfer to the hotel.

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

Day 2 Drive from Osh to the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak (280 km, 5 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Located in South KyrgyzstanOsh is often referred to as ‘the southern capital’. It is the country’s second largest city. Once you arrive in Osh, you will meet kind and hospitable people and see green busy streets with a lot of cozy cafes.

It will take 5-6 hours to get to Yurt Camp (Base Camp of Lenin Peak) in a comfortable motor vehicle along Pamir Highway (M41 highway). Almost immediately beyond the city the terrain becomes hilly, as if informing us of what we are to expect further on the way. And the further we went, the more grandiose and magnificent everything around us was becoming. After you have moved over Taldyk Mountain Pass (3,600 m), you will see the stunning scene of Alay Valley with the majestic snow-capped Zaalay Range of the Pamirs towering over it. The Alay Valley is characterized by extensive green fields, marmots occasionally running across the road, grazing horses, a bottomless sky and blue mountain chains on the horizon.

Upon arrival at the Base Camp (3,600 m) on Edelweiss Glade you will be accommodated in comfortable base tents equipped with wooden floors and electricity (bedclothes are also provided). More of a hotel-room-sans-conveniences (located just outside) than a tent our participants are often pleasantly surprised.

The "Edelweiss Glade" BC is the largest one at the Achik Tash Tract and is the final point where it’s possible to trust the wheels of your off-road Jeep. Here’s the end of the “easy going” - your transport relies on your feet only from here on out!

Base Camp (3,600 m) is a complex of structures with all that’s necessary for comfortable dwelling: tents, kitchen, vapor bath, a number of toilets, a volleyball playing field, and most importantly a number of warm yurts (heated every day!), which can be used either as a dining-room or potentially a dancing hall!

Day 3 Acclimatization ascent to Petrovsky Peak ridge (4,730 m).

Distance covered during the day: 14-15 km.
Altitude difference:
+1,130м; -1,130m.
Altitude of the lowest point (Base camp)
: 3,600m according to the GPS
Altitude of the highest point (Petrovskiy Peak):
4,730 m according to the GPS
Category of difficulty:
I (F)

Step 1: Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow; traversing the Achik Tash River Valley crosswise; crossing the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River; approaching the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge.

Step 2: Starting to climb the slope towards Petrovsky Peak; the steepness of the slope reaches 35° in some places; getting onto the ridge and further along it on a long path; the relief consists of grassy slopes, which then pass into a mixture of grass and scree and then scree alone.

Step 3: As you reach the portion of the route consisting of mixed rocks and snow, you must put on belay systems, crampons and high gaiters and make your ice-axe ready at hand; the guide carries the main rope; attention: the slope’s steepness reaches 50° in places.

Step 4: As soon as you reach the snow-and-ice portion of the slope, you must make rope teams (if the guide regards it necessary to do so); from this moment on you must set the pace by the weakest member of your group; all the members of the group must climb close to each other; as the team reaches Petrovsky Peak, all must stay together, no one is allowed to detach from the body of the group; the group may stay on the summit for 20 to 30 minutes, in case there is no wind; in windy weather people must not remain there for more than 10 minutes; climb the mountain in thunderstorm or snowfall is strictly prohibited.

Step 5: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it; the descending technique consists in doing what you did when you were ascending, only in reverse order.
Congratulations on your First Summit of the Pamirs!

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

The ascent to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the physical conditions of the participants. It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered. Take a deep breath of air into your lungs as the panoramic view that opens up before you from the “Marmots’ Glade” lying just below the pass is astonishing. Local residents of the glade - marmots - whistling out different tunes dart in and out their holes, heedless of observing visitors.

Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes.

Total ascent time is about 3 to 4.5 hours.

Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. In 2007’s season we have managed to couple (!) two yurts - an achievement unheard of even by experienced Kyrgyz shepherds!

The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee. Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance!

You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents.

Day 5 Training on ice: the technique of climbing glaciers and snow-covered slopes as a roped-up team, belaying on snow, climbing and descending on a fixed rope, etc.

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Ascent to Camp 2. Lenin peak

Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow (80m-long stretch, gradient 35-40 degrees) using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag. Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream (factor 25 and higher)! We then traverse the slope keeping to the right aiming at the plateau colloquially known as “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan). Cross the “Skovoroda” to reach Camp 2 (6 to 7 hours).

If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.

Day 7 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 5700 m.



From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to Camp 3. Lenin peak

From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 9 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 6200 – 6300 m.

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 10 Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 11 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak

Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. Luckily enough there’s some ready and waiting for you at Camp 1! A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. Certainly a place difficult to become/remain bored in. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie... One may well take the motto hanging from the yurt flap t heart: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time. The yurt closes at 23:00 PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning.

Day 12 Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

Descent to Base Camp (3600 m). Lenin peak

Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattress) and have a delicious piece of freshly cooked lamb. This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is.

Day 13 Reserve day in case of bad weather.



In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town. Most likely a day to remember!

Day 14 Drive from the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak to Osh.

Taldyk pass. Lenin peak

Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection.

Day 15 Airflight from Osh to Bishkek.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 16 Departure from Bishkek.



That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.
In the VIP Option you are allowed to stay at the Base Camp for up to 5 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of your return ticket date, without additional payment for lodging and meals, in which case, however, you will have to pay extra for the guide’s additional service (in excess of 16 days).

The cost of the tour for "VIP with oxygen" option:

Bishkek - Bishkek 16210 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Bishkek
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Domestic flights Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek
  • Individual transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
  • Lunchboxes on the way Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious yurt. Every yurt are equipped with:
    • private bathroom (shower, toilet, hot/cold water)
    • individual heaters
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • furniture and appliances (wardrobe, table, electric kettle, hair dryer)
    • towels.
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Laundry service
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious tent. Every tent is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses and bedding
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Mobile sauna
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Single accommodation in tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Meals in Camp 2 and Camp 3
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Assistant guide (second guide) during the entire ascent program
  • Porter service
    • C1 - C2 - C3 - C4 and the way back - 50 kg.
  • Rent of oxygen equipment
  • Rent of oxygen cylinders
Personal equipment rental:
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

  • Osh - Osh
    2000 USD
  • Tashkent - Tashkent
    2240 USD
  • Bishkek - Bishkek
    2260 USD

GUARANTEED DATES OF THE GROUP TOUR IN 2024:

Group #1. 30.06–19.07.24   Senior guide Darinji
Group #2. 07.07–26.07.24   Senior guide Kishor
Group #3. 12.07–31.07.24   Senior guide Dawa
Group #4. 18.07–06.08.24   Senior guide Pasang
Group #5. 25.07–13.08.24   Senior guide Tenzing
Group #6.  30.07–18.08.24   Senior guide Darinji
Group #7. 06.08–25.08.24   Senior guide Bir
Group #8. 11.08–30.08.24   Senior guide Mingma

GUARANTEED DATES OF THE GROUP TOUR IN 2025:

  Group #1. 29.06–18.07.2025 Group #5. 24.07–12.08.2025  
  Group #2. 06.07–25.07.2025 Group #6. 29.07–17.08.2025  
  Group #3. 11.07–30.07.2025 Group #7. 05.08–24.08.2025  
  Group #4. 17.07–05.08.2025 Group #8. 10.08–29.08.2025  

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak
Day 1 Arrival in Osh. Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).

Базовый Лагерь. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 м), where you can see how the real wild onion grows and where marmots live. If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.
Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 2 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of the Base camp (3600 m): hike to a waterfall, climb up to the Puteshestvennikov (Travelers) pass (4150 m).

Луковая поляна. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Leek Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow.
Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of the Base camp (3600 m): hike up to a scenic viewing point on the Petrovskiy Peak ridge (approximately 4100 m).

Подъём в Лагерь 1. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak.
Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Ascent to “Solnechniy” Camp 1 (4400 m).

Фото, базовый лагерь. активный туризм. альпинизм. Приключенческий тур с треккингом в горах Памира. Пик Ленина, Памир, Кыргызстан

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 5 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of Camp 1 (4400 m): snow and ice training.

Подъём в Лагерь 2. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Подъём в Лагерь 3. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use ascender to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the "Skovoroda" ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Спуск в Лагерь 1. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 8 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Сауна. Баня в Базовом лагере. Пик Ленина

Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 9 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Отдых, базовый лагерь, пик Ленина

Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 10 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Отдых, базовый лагерь, пик Ленина

Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Лагерь 1. Гостевая юрта. Пик Ленина

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Лагерь 2. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Лагерь 3. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Восхождение на пик Ленина. Вершина пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 15 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Лагерь 1. Пик Ленина

Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Базовый Лагерь. Пик Ленина

Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Базовый лагерь под пиком Ленина, Памир, Кыргызстан

Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 18 Extra day in case of bad weather.

Перевал Талдык. Чон-Алайская долина. Памир, Кыргызстан. Пик Ленина

An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 19 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.

Памирский закат, Кыргызстан. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.

Памирский закат, Кыргызстан. Пик Ленина

Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

THE COST OF CLIMBING LENIN PEAK IN A GROUP WITH A GUIDE:

Osh - Osh 2000 USD
SGL accommodation +410 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Services of a mountain guide for the period of the active part of the tour (18 days): 1 guide for 2-3 people
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
Group equipment rental:
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • Porter service
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

GUARANTEED DATES OF THE GROUP TOUR IN 2024:

Group #1. 29.06–20.07.24   Senior guide Darinji
Group #2. 06.07–27.07.24   Senior guide Kishor
Group #3. 11.07–01.08.24   Senior guide Dawa
Group #4. 17.07–07.08.24   Senior guide Pasang
Group #5. 24.07–14.08.24   Senior guide Tenzing
Group #6.  29.07–19.08.24   Senior guide Darinji
Group #7. 05.08–26.08.24   Senior guide Bir
Group #8. 10.08–31.08.24   Senior guide Mingma

GUARANTEED DATES OF THE GROUP TOUR IN 2025:

  Group #1. 28.06–19.07.2025 Group #5. 23.07–13.08.2025  
  Group #2. 05.07–26.07.2025 Group #6. 28.07–18.08.2025  
  Group #3. 10.07–31.07.2025 Group #7. 04.08–25.08.2025  
  Group #4. 16.07–06.08.2025 Group #8. 09.08–30.08.2025  

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Tashkent. Transfer by car: Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).

Базовый Лагерь. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 м), where you can see how the real wild onion grows and where marmots live. If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.
Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of the Base camp (3600 m): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov (Travelers) pass (4150 m).

Луковая поляна. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Leek Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow.
Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of the Base camp (3600 m): hike up to a scenic viewing point on the Petrovskiy Peak ridge (approximately 4100 m).

Подъём в Лагерь 1. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak.
Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Фото, базовый лагерь. активный туризм. альпинизм. Приключенческий тур с треккингом в горах Памира. Пик Ленина, Памир, Кыргызстан

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of Camp 1 (4400 m): snow and ice training.

Подъём в Лагерь 2. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Подъём в Лагерь 3. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use ascender to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the "Skovoroda" ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Спуск в Лагерь 1. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Сауна. Баня в Базовом лагере. Пик Ленина

Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Отдых, базовый лагерь, пик Ленина

Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Отдых, базовый лагерь, пик Ленина

Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Лагерь 1. Гостевая юрта. Пик Ленина

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Лагерь 2. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Лагерь 3. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Восхождение на пик Ленина. Вершина пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Лагерь 1. Пик Ленина

Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Базовый Лагерь. Пик Ленина

Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Базовый лагерь под пиком Ленина, Памир, Кыргызстан

Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.

Перевал Талдык. Чон-Алайская долина. Памир, Кыргызстан. Пик Ленина

An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 21 Transfer from Osh to Tashkent.



Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

Day 22 Departure from Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

THE COST OF CLIMBING LENIN PEAK IN A GROUP WITH A GUIDE:

Tashkent - Tashkent 2240 USD
SGL accommodation +450 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Tashkent
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfer Tashkent – Osh – Tashkent
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Services of a mountain guide for the period of the active part of the tour (18 days): 1 guide for 2-3 people
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
Group equipment rental:
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • Porter service
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

GUARANTEED DATES OF THE GROUP TOUR IN 2024:

Group #1. 29.06–20.07.24   Senior guide Darinji
Group #2. 06.07–27.07.24   Senior guide Kishor
Group #3. 11.07–01.08.24   Senior guide Dawa
Group #4. 17.07–07.08.24   Senior guide Pasang
Group #5. 24.07–14.08.24   Senior guide Tenzing
Group #6.  29.07–19.08.24   Senior guide Darinji
Group #7. 05.08–26.08.24   Senior guide Bir
Group #8. 10.08–31.08.24   Senior guide Mingma

GUARANTEED DATES OF THE GROUP TOUR IN 2025:

  Group #1. 28.06–19.07.2025 Group #5. 23.07–13.08.2025  
  Group #2. 05.07–26.07.2025 Group #6. 28.07–18.08.2025  
  Group #3. 10.07–31.07.2025 Group #7. 04.08–25.08.2025  
  Group #4. 16.07–06.08.2025 Group #8. 09.08–30.08.2025  

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.
Transfer to the hotel.

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).

Базовый Лагерь. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 м), where you can see how the real wild onion grows and where marmots live. If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.
Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of the Base camp (3600 m): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov (Travelers) pass (4150 m).

Луковая поляна. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Leek Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow.
Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of the Base camp (3600 m): hike up to a scenic viewing point on the Petrovskiy Peak ridge (approximately 4100 m).

Подъём в Лагерь 1. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak.
Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Фото, базовый лагерь. активный туризм. альпинизм. Приключенческий тур с треккингом в горах Памира. Пик Ленина, Памир, Кыргызстан

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimatizing in the vicinity of Camp 1 (4400 m): snow and ice training.

Подъём в Лагерь 2. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Подъём в Лагерь 3. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use ascender to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the "Skovoroda" ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Спуск в Лагерь 1. Восхождение на пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Сауна. Баня в Базовом лагере. Пик Ленина

Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Отдых, базовый лагерь, пик Ленина

Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Отдых, базовый лагерь, пик Ленина

Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Лагерь 1. Гостевая юрта. Пик Ленина

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Лагерь 2. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Лагерь 3. Пик Ленина

Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Восхождение на пик Ленина. Вершина пик Ленина

Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Лагерь 1. Пик Ленина

Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Базовый Лагерь. Пик Ленина

Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Базовый лагерь под пиком Ленина, Памир, Кыргызстан

Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.

Перевал Талдык. Чон-Алайская долина. Памир, Кыргызстан. Пик Ленина

An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 21 Domestic flight Osh – Bishkek.



Transfer to the airport. Domestic flight to Bishkek. Meeting at the airport of Bishkek. Transfer and check-in at the hotel after 14:00. Leisure time.
Meals: breakfast.
Overnight at the hotel.

Day 22 Departure from Bishkek.

THE COST OF CLIMBING LENIN PEAK IN A GROUP WITH A GUIDE:

Bishkek - Bishkek 2260 USD
SGL accommodation +450 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Bishkek
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Domestic flights Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in the Camp 1 in spacious camping tents. The tents are equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Services of a mountain guide for the period of the active part of the tour (18 days): 1 guide for 2-3 people
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
Group equipment rental:
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • Porter service
Gifts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak

We also have two interesting options near Lenin Peak:
- "Pamirs' Summits" - climbing 2 / 3 / 4 peaks (including Lenin Peak).
- "Pamir Resort" - a group tour without climbing, but with trekking, master classes and comfortable accommodation in the Base Camp.


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

  • Osh - Osh
    14880 USD
  • Tashkent - Tashkent
    15120 USD
  • Bishkek - Bishkek
    15140 USD
Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Osh. Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 2 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 5 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 8 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 9 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 10 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 15 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 18 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 19 Transfer to Osh, accommodation at a hotel.



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

In the VIP Option you are allowed to stay at the Base Camp for up to 5 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of your return ticket date, without additional payment for lodging and meals, in which case, however, you will have to pay extra for the guide’s additional service (in excess of 16 days).

The cost of the tour for "VIP" option:

Osh - Osh 14880 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Osh
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Individual transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
  • Lunchboxes on the way Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious yurt. Every yurt is equipped with:
    • private bathroom (shower, toilet, hot/cold water)
    • individual heaters
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • furniture and appliances (wardrobe, table, electric kettle, hair dryer)
    • towels.
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Laundry service
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious tent. Every tent is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses and bedding
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Mobile sauna
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Single accommodation in tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
    • Camp 4 (6400 meters)
  • Meals in Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Assistant guide (second guide) during the entire ascent program
  • Porter service
    • BC - C1 and the way back - 40 kg
    • C1 - C2 - C3 - C4 and the way back - 30 kg.
Personal equipment rental:
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Tashkent. Transfer by car: Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent up further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport.

Day 21 Transfer from Osh to Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 22 Departure from Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

In the VIP Option you are allowed to stay at the Base Camp for up to 5 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of your return ticket date, without additional payment for lodging and meals, in which case, however, you will have to pay extra for the guide’s additional service (in excess of 16 days).

The cost of the tour for "VIP" option:

Tashkent - Tashkent 15120 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Tashkent
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfers Tashkent – Base Camp – Tashkent
  • Individual transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
  • Lunchboxes on the way Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious yurt. Every yurt is equipped with:
    • private bathroom (shower, toilet, hot/cold water)
    • individual heaters
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • furniture and appliances (wardrobe, table, electric kettle, hair dryer)
    • towels.
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Laundry service
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious tent. Every tent is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses and bedding
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Mobile sauna
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Single accommodation in tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
    • Camp 4 (6400 meters)
  • Meals in Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Assistant guide (second guide) during the entire ascent program
  • Porter service
    • BC - C1 and the way back - 40 kg
    • C1 - C2 - C3 - C4 and the way back - 30 kg.
Personal equipment rental:
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.
Transfer to the hotel.

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

Day 2 Transfer to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters). Hike to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters).



Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 3 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike to a waterfall, ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 11 kilometers; altitude variation: +550 meters, -550 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters). Climbing up to the Puteshestvennikov pass on a good road normally takes about 1.5-2.5 hours. The way to the pass lies across the picturesque Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow, a waterfall, and a beautiful canyon of the left confluent of the Achik-Tash River. The pass shows an incredible view of the XIX Party communion peak (5920 meters), Spartak peak (6183 meters), Lenin peak (7134 meters), and the Lenin glacier. At the beginning of the season, it is usually very windy at the pass, and there can even be snow. Return to the base camp, rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 4 Acclimation process on the territory of the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters): hike up to the crest of the Petrovskiy peak (approximately 4100 meters).



Travel time: 4-5 hours, distance: 6 kilometers; altitude variation: +500 meters, -500 meters.

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

One part of today’s route to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 meters) is already familiar to us. After it, we will climb back down the pass, which is much easier and quicker. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach Camp 1 (4400 meters) which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in Camp 1 (4400 meters), accommodation, and rest. Camp 1 is the nearest camp to the mountain, which is definitely an advantage that allows our alpinists to save their time and energy when climbing up and down to and from the Lenin peak.

Camp 1 is sort of an oasis of life and comfort among the snow, ice, and rocks. On its territory, you can find warm dining and leisure yurts, restrooms, a sauna, camping showers, a medical station, and lockers.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 6 Acclimation process on the territory of the Camp 1 (4400 meters): snowy and icy activities or hike up to the Yukhin peak (5100 meters) and return to Camp 1.



Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-10 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a very dangerous part of the expedition because of the avalanches, concealed cracks, and big open cracks. In 2022, a very small, but a very steep section appeared which now makes all alpinists use jumar to pass this part of the route.

The best time of departure from Camp 1 is 4:00 in the morning. We will depart from Camp 1 (4400 meters) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 meters, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag. After that, we will move up the slope of the North Wall. Regardless of the amount of snow and the time of day, this slope is avalanche-prone since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. In order to minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes. An early exit will allow us to avoid long walks under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this stretch of the path.

Further along, following the traverse to the right, we will exit to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the “Skovoroda” ("Frying Pan"). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid any rest stops, even for just 5 minutes.

After the “Frying Pan” traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to Camp 2. We recommend completing the entire section with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 9 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 2 (5300 meters), and then to Camp 1 (4400 meters) along the same way as you climbed up. Special attention must be paid to snowy bridges and overcoming glacier cracks.
Accommodation at Camp 1 (4400 meters), rest.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 10 Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 11 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Rest at an altitude of 3600 meters along the greenery and coziness is a must in order to recharge your batteries before the main ascent of the entire expedition. The well-developed infrastructure of the base camp will allow you to fully recover you can get a good sleep at the heated tents or yurts, have a steam at the sauna, unwind at the warm and comfortable yurts, enjoy a tasty hot meal and fresh fruit, play volleyball, write a detailed letter with the news to your family, or post some pictures or information on your social media.

For those who would like to stay active during their rest day, we recommend hiking to the Achik-Tash valley lakes. The most famous and picturesque of all is the Tuprak-Kel lake that has many legends tied to it.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 12 Rest day at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent the familiar route to the Puteshestvennikov pass and along to Camp 1 (4400 meters). The rest and acclimation you got earlier will make the way to Camp 1 significantly easier and quicker.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 meters).



Travel time: 5-7 hours, distance: 5 kilometers; altitude variation: +900 meters.

Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5300 meters).

Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Travel time: 4-7 hours, distance: 2.5 kilometers; altitude variation: +800 meters.

Ascent along the familiar route to Camp 3 (6100 meters). On this day, we recommend going to sleep earlier than usual, since the next day is one of the most important days of the expedition that features a very early start to the ascent to the top.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 16 Climbing up to the Lenin peak (7134 meters). Descent to Camp 3 (6100 meters).



Overall travel time: 10-14 hours, distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: +1034 meters, -1034 meters.

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

Day 17 Climb-down to Camp 1 (4400 meters).



Distance: 7.5 kilometers; altitude variation: -1700 meters.

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 meters) the same way as you climbed up. Accommodation at Camp 1, rest and recovery.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

Day 18 Climb-down to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).



Distance: 12 kilometers; altitude variation: -800 meters.

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Day 19 Extra day in case of bad weather.



An extra day is necessary for the program of climbing up a 7000-meters mountain. Pamir mountains are severe and harsh, and the weather changes unexpectedly. Fog, snow, wind, and severe drop of temperature can intervene with the initial mountain climbing schedule and force the travelers to get delayed because of the weather conditions.

Day 20 Departure from Osh.



Transfer to the airport.

Day 21 Transfer from Osh to Bishkek.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 22 Departure from Bishkek.

Sunset in the Pamirs

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

In the VIP Option you are allowed to stay at the Base Camp for up to 5 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of your return ticket date, without additional payment for lodging and meals, in which case, however, you will have to pay extra for the guide’s additional service (in excess of 16 days).

The cost of the tour for "VIP" option:

Bishkek - Bishkek 15140 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 5* with breakfast in Bishkek
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Domestic flights Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek
  • Individual transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
  • Lunchboxes on the way Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious yurt. Every yurt is equipped with:
    • private bathroom (shower, toilet, hot/cold water)
    • individual heaters
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • furniture and appliances (wardrobe, table, electric kettle, hair dryer)
    • towels.
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Laundry service
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in comfortable spacious tent. Every tent is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses and bedding
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Wi-Fi
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Mobile sauna
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Single accommodation in tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
    • Camp 4 (6400 meters)
  • Meals in Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Assistant guide (second guide) during the entire ascent program
  • Porter service
    • BC - C1 and the way back - 40 kg
    • C1 - C2 - C3 - C4 and the way back - 30 kg.
Personal equipment rental:
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

  • Osh - Osh
    6320 USD
  • Tashkent - Tashkent
    6560 USD
  • Bishkek - Bishkek
    6580 USD
Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Osh in the morning. Drive from Osh to the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak (280 km, 5 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Located in South KyrgyzstanOsh is often referred to as ‘the southern capital’. It is the country’s second largest city. Once you arrive in Osh, you will meet kind and hospitable people and see green busy streets with a lot of cozy cafes.

It will take 5-6 hours to get to Yurt Camp (Base Camp of Lenin Peak) in a comfortable motor vehicle along Pamir Highway (M41 highway). Almost immediately beyond the city the terrain becomes hilly, as if informing us of what we are to expect further on the way. And the further we went, the more grandiose and magnificent everything around us was becoming. After you have moved over Taldyk Mountain Pass (3,600 m), you will see the stunning scene of Alay Valley with the majestic snow-capped Zaalay Range of the Pamirs towering over it. The Alay Valley is characterized by extensive green fields, marmots occasionally running across the road, grazing horses, a bottomless sky and blue mountain chains on the horizon.

Upon arrival at the Base Camp (3,600 m) on Edelweiss Glade you will be accommodated in comfortable base tents equipped with wooden floors and electricity (bedclothes are also provided). More of a hotel-room-sans-conveniences (located just outside) than a tent our participants are often pleasantly surprised.

The "Edelweiss Glade" BC is the largest one at the Achik Tash Tract and is the final point where it’s possible to trust the wheels of your off-road Jeep. Here’s the end of the “easy going” - your transport relies on your feet only from here on out!

Base Camp (3,600 m) is a complex of structures with all that’s necessary for comfortable dwelling: tents, kitchen, vapor bath, a number of toilets, a volleyball playing field, and most importantly a number of warm yurts (heated every day!), which can be used either as a dining-room or potentially a dancing hall!

Day 2 Acclimatization ascent to Petrovsky Peak ridge (4,730 m).

Distance covered during the day: 14-15 km.
Altitude difference:
+1,130м; -1,130m.
Altitude of the lowest point (Base camp)
: 3,600m according to the GPS
Altitude of the highest point (Petrovskiy Peak):
4,730 m according to the GPS
Category of difficulty:
I (F)

Step 1: Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow; traversing the Achik Tash River Valley crosswise; crossing the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River; approaching the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge.

Step 2: Starting to climb the slope towards Petrovsky Peak; the steepness of the slope reaches 35° in some places; getting onto the ridge and further along it on a long path; the relief consists of grassy slopes, which then pass into a mixture of grass and scree and then scree alone.

Step 3: As you reach the portion of the route consisting of mixed rocks and snow, you must put on belay systems, crampons and high gaiters and make your ice-axe ready at hand; the guide carries the main rope; attention: the slope’s steepness reaches 50° in places.

Step 4: As soon as you reach the snow-and-ice portion of the slope, you must make rope teams (if the guide regards it necessary to do so); from this moment on you must set the pace by the weakest member of your group; all the members of the group must climb close to each other; as the team reaches Petrovsky Peak, all must stay together, no one is allowed to detach from the body of the group; the group may stay on the summit for 20 to 30 minutes, in case there is no wind; in windy weather people must not remain there for more than 10 minutes; climb the mountain in thunderstorm or snowfall is strictly prohibited.

Step 5: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it; the descending technique consists in doing what you did when you were ascending, only in reverse order.
Congratulations on your First Summit of the Pamirs!

Day 3 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

The ascent to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the physical conditions of the participants. It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered. Take a deep breath of air into your lungs as the panoramic view that opens up before you from the “Marmots’ Glade” lying just below the pass is astonishing. Local residents of the glade - marmots - whistling out different tunes dart in and out their holes, heedless of observing visitors.

Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes.

Total ascent time is about 3 to 4.5 hours.

Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. In 2007’s season we have managed to couple (!) two yurts - an achievement unheard of even by experienced Kyrgyz shepherds!

The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee. Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance!

You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents.

Day 4 Training on ice: the technique of climbing glaciers and snow-covered slopes as a roped-up team, belaying on snow, climbing and descending on a fixed rope, etc.

Photo, base camp, adventure tour, mountaineering, trekking in the Pamir mountains. Lenin peak area. Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Day 5 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Ascent to Camp 2. Lenin peak

Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow (80m-long stretch, gradient 35-40 degrees) using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag. Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream (factor 25 and higher)! We then traverse the slope keeping to the right aiming at the plateau colloquially known as “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan). Cross the “Skovoroda” to reach Camp 2 (6 to 7 hours).

If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.

Day 6 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 5700 m.



From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to Camp 3. Lenin peak

From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 8 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 6200 – 6300 m.



Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 9 Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 10 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak

Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. Luckily enough there’s some ready and waiting for you at Camp 1! A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. Certainly a place difficult to become/remain bored in. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie... One may well take the motto hanging from the yurt flap t heart: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time. The yurt closes at 23:00 PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning.

Day 11 Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

Descent to Base Camp (3600 m). Lenin peak

Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattress) and have a delicious piece of freshly cooked lamb. This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is.

Day 12 Reserve day in case of bad weather.



In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town. Most likely a day to remember!

Day 13 Drive from the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak to Osh.

Taldyk pass. Lenin peak

Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection.

Day 14 The end of the program. Departure from Osh.

Sunset in the Pamirs

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the tour for "With Oxygen" option:

Osh - Osh 6320 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in spacious camping tents. The tents is equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in spacious camping tents. The tents is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Rent of oxygen equipment
  • Rent of oxygen cylinders
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • Porter service
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Tashkent. Transfer by car: Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

Day 2 Drive from Osh to the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak (280 km, 5 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Located in South KyrgyzstanOsh is often referred to as ‘the southern capital’. It is the country’s second largest city. Once you arrive in Osh, you will meet kind and hospitable people and see green busy streets with a lot of cozy cafes.

It will take 5-6 hours to get to Yurt Camp (Base Camp of Lenin Peak) in a comfortable motor vehicle along Pamir Highway (M41 highway). Almost immediately beyond the city the terrain becomes hilly, as if informing us of what we are to expect further on the way. And the further we went, the more grandiose and magnificent everything around us was becoming. After you have moved over Taldyk Mountain Pass (3,600 m), you will see the stunning scene of Alay Valley with the majestic snow-capped Zaalay Range of the Pamirs towering over it. The Alay Valley is characterized by extensive green fields, marmots occasionally running across the road, grazing horses, a bottomless sky and blue mountain chains on the horizon.

Upon arrival at the Base Camp (3,600 m) on Edelweiss Glade you will be accommodated in comfortable base tents equipped with wooden floors and electricity (bedclothes are also provided). More of a hotel-room-sans-conveniences (located just outside) than a tent our participants are often pleasantly surprised.

The "Edelweiss Glade" BC is the largest one at the Achik Tash Tract and is the final point where it’s possible to trust the wheels of your off-road Jeep. Here’s the end of the “easy going” - your transport relies on your feet only from here on out!

Base Camp (3,600 m) is a complex of structures with all that’s necessary for comfortable dwelling: tents, kitchen, vapor bath, a number of toilets, a volleyball playing field, and most importantly a number of warm yurts (heated every day!), which can be used either as a dining-room or potentially a dancing hall!

Day 3 Acclimatization ascent to Petrovsky Peak ridge (4,730 m).

Distance covered during the day: 14-15 km.
Altitude difference:
+1,130м; -1,130m.
Altitude of the lowest point (Base camp)
: 3,600m according to the GPS
Altitude of the highest point (Petrovskiy Peak):
4,730 m according to the GPS
Category of difficulty:
I (F)

Step 1: Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow; traversing the Achik Tash River Valley crosswise; crossing the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River; approaching the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge.

Step 2: Starting to climb the slope towards Petrovsky Peak; the steepness of the slope reaches 35° in some places; getting onto the ridge and further along it on a long path; the relief consists of grassy slopes, which then pass into a mixture of grass and scree and then scree alone.

Step 3: As you reach the portion of the route consisting of mixed rocks and snow, you must put on belay systems, crampons and high gaiters and make your ice-axe ready at hand; the guide carries the main rope; attention: the slope’s steepness reaches 50° in places.

Step 4: As soon as you reach the snow-and-ice portion of the slope, you must make rope teams (if the guide regards it necessary to do so); from this moment on you must set the pace by the weakest member of your group; all the members of the group must climb close to each other; as the team reaches Petrovsky Peak, all must stay together, no one is allowed to detach from the body of the group; the group may stay on the summit for 20 to 30 minutes, in case there is no wind; in windy weather people must not remain there for more than 10 minutes; climb the mountain in thunderstorm or snowfall is strictly prohibited.

Step 5: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it; the descending technique consists in doing what you did when you were ascending, only in reverse order.
Congratulations on your First Summit of the Pamirs!

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

The ascent to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the physical conditions of the participants. It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered. Take a deep breath of air into your lungs as the panoramic view that opens up before you from the “Marmots’ Glade” lying just below the pass is astonishing. Local residents of the glade - marmots - whistling out different tunes dart in and out their holes, heedless of observing visitors.

Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes.

Total ascent time is about 3 to 4.5 hours.

Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. In 2007’s season we have managed to couple (!) two yurts - an achievement unheard of even by experienced Kyrgyz shepherds!

The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee. Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance!

You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents.

Day 5 Training on ice: the technique of climbing glaciers and snow-covered slopes as a roped-up team, belaying on snow, climbing and descending on a fixed rope, etc.

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Ascent to Camp 2. Lenin peak

Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow (80m-long stretch, gradient 35-40 degrees) using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag. Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream (factor 25 and higher)! We then traverse the slope keeping to the right aiming at the plateau colloquially known as “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan). Cross the “Skovoroda” to reach Camp 2 (6 to 7 hours).

If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.

Day 7 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 5700 m.



From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to Camp 3. Lenin peak

From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 9 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 6200 – 6300 m.

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 10 Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 11 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak

Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. Luckily enough there’s some ready and waiting for you at Camp 1! A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. Certainly a place difficult to become/remain bored in. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie... One may well take the motto hanging from the yurt flap t heart: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time. The yurt closes at 23:00 PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning.

Day 12 Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

Descent to Base Camp (3600 m). Lenin peak

Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattress) and have a delicious piece of freshly cooked lamb. This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is.

Day 13 Reserve day in case of bad weather.



In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town. Most likely a day to remember!

Day 14 Drive from the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak to Osh.

Taldyk pass. Lenin peak

Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection.

Day 15 Transfer from Osh to Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 16 Departure from Tashkent.

Sunset in the Pamirs

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the tour for "With Oxygen" option:

Tashkent - Tashkent 6560 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Tashkent
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Transfer Tashkent - Osh - Tashkent
  • Transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in spacious camping tents. The tents is equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in spacious camping tents. The tents is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Rent of oxygen equipment
  • Rent of oxygen cylinders
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • Porter service
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

Program for climbing Lenin Peak using the classic route from the North via Razdelnaya Peak:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh. Transfer to the hotel.

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

Day 2 Drive from Osh to the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak (280 km, 5 hours).

Base Camp. Lenin peak

Located in South KyrgyzstanOsh is often referred to as ‘the southern capital’. It is the country’s second largest city. Once you arrive in Osh, you will meet kind and hospitable people and see green busy streets with a lot of cozy cafes.

It will take 5-6 hours to get to Yurt Camp (Base Camp of Lenin Peak) in a comfortable motor vehicle along Pamir Highway (M41 highway). Almost immediately beyond the city the terrain becomes hilly, as if informing us of what we are to expect further on the way. And the further we went, the more grandiose and magnificent everything around us was becoming. After you have moved over Taldyk Mountain Pass (3,600 m), you will see the stunning scene of Alay Valley with the majestic snow-capped Zaalay Range of the Pamirs towering over it. The Alay Valley is characterized by extensive green fields, marmots occasionally running across the road, grazing horses, a bottomless sky and blue mountain chains on the horizon.

Upon arrival at the Base Camp (3,600 m) on Edelweiss Glade you will be accommodated in comfortable base tents equipped with wooden floors and electricity (bedclothes are also provided). More of a hotel-room-sans-conveniences (located just outside) than a tent our participants are often pleasantly surprised.

The "Edelweiss Glade" BC is the largest one at the Achik Tash Tract and is the final point where it’s possible to trust the wheels of your off-road Jeep. Here’s the end of the “easy going” - your transport relies on your feet only from here on out!

Base Camp (3,600 m) is a complex of structures with all that’s necessary for comfortable dwelling: tents, kitchen, vapor bath, a number of toilets, a volleyball playing field, and most importantly a number of warm yurts (heated every day!), which can be used either as a dining-room or potentially a dancing hall!

Day 3 Acclimatization ascent to Petrovsky Peak ridge (4,730 m).

Distance covered during the day: 14-15 km.
Altitude difference:
+1,130м; -1,130m.
Altitude of the lowest point (Base camp)
: 3,600m according to the GPS
Altitude of the highest point (Petrovskiy Peak):
4,730 m according to the GPS
Category of difficulty:
I (F)

Step 1: Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow; traversing the Achik Tash River Valley crosswise; crossing the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River; approaching the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge.

Step 2: Starting to climb the slope towards Petrovsky Peak; the steepness of the slope reaches 35° in some places; getting onto the ridge and further along it on a long path; the relief consists of grassy slopes, which then pass into a mixture of grass and scree and then scree alone.

Step 3: As you reach the portion of the route consisting of mixed rocks and snow, you must put on belay systems, crampons and high gaiters and make your ice-axe ready at hand; the guide carries the main rope; attention: the slope’s steepness reaches 50° in places.

Step 4: As soon as you reach the snow-and-ice portion of the slope, you must make rope teams (if the guide regards it necessary to do so); from this moment on you must set the pace by the weakest member of your group; all the members of the group must climb close to each other; as the team reaches Petrovsky Peak, all must stay together, no one is allowed to detach from the body of the group; the group may stay on the summit for 20 to 30 minutes, in case there is no wind; in windy weather people must not remain there for more than 10 minutes; climb the mountain in thunderstorm or snowfall is strictly prohibited.

Step 5: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it; the descending technique consists in doing what you did when you were ascending, only in reverse order.
Congratulations on your First Summit of the Pamirs!

Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

The ascent to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the physical conditions of the participants. It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered. Take a deep breath of air into your lungs as the panoramic view that opens up before you from the “Marmots’ Glade” lying just below the pass is astonishing. Local residents of the glade - marmots - whistling out different tunes dart in and out their holes, heedless of observing visitors.

Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes.

Total ascent time is about 3 to 4.5 hours.

Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. In 2007’s season we have managed to couple (!) two yurts - an achievement unheard of even by experienced Kyrgyz shepherds!

The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee. Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance!

You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents.

Day 5 Training on ice: the technique of climbing glaciers and snow-covered slopes as a roped-up team, belaying on snow, climbing and descending on a fixed rope, etc.

Ascent to Camp 1. Lenin peak

Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Ascent to Camp 2. Lenin peak

Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow (80m-long stretch, gradient 35-40 degrees) using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag. Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream (factor 25 and higher)! We then traverse the slope keeping to the right aiming at the plateau colloquially known as “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan). Cross the “Skovoroda” to reach Camp 2 (6 to 7 hours).

If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.

Day 7 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 5700 m.



From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to Camp 3. Lenin peak

From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.

The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!

Day 9 Acclimatization ascent to the altitude of 6200 – 6300 m.

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 10 Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.

And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!

Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.

A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!

Day 11 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak

Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. Luckily enough there’s some ready and waiting for you at Camp 1! A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. Certainly a place difficult to become/remain bored in. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie... One may well take the motto hanging from the yurt flap t heart: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time. The yurt closes at 23:00 PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning.

Day 12 Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

Descent to Base Camp (3600 m). Lenin peak

Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattress) and have a delicious piece of freshly cooked lamb. This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is.

Day 13 Reserve day in case of bad weather.



In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town. Most likely a day to remember!

Day 14 Drive from the "Edelweiss Glade" Base Camp of Lenin Peak to Osh.

Taldyk pass. Lenin peak

Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection.

Day 15 Airflight from Osh to Bishkek.

Sunset in the Pamirs

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Day 16 Departure from Bishkek.



That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.

The cost of the tour for "With Oxygen" option:

Bishkek - Bishkek 6580 USD

The cost of the package includes:

  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Osh
    (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in a hotel 3* with breakfast in Bishkek
    (1 night)
Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport
  • Domestic flights Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek
  • Transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
Documents and taxes:
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
  • Environmental tax
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Accommodation in spacious camping tents. The tents is equipped with:
    • individual heaters
    • beds, mattresses, blankets, pillows
    • changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bed sheets, and pillowcases
    • electricity: sockets and lighting
    • bedside tables and chairs
  • Meals – full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Rental point and shop
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
    Camp 1 services (4400 meters):
  • Accommodation in spacious camping tents. The tents is equipped with:
    • wooden flooring with thermal insulation
    • foam mattresses
  • Meals - full board: 3 times a day hot varied meals, including vegetarian
  • Medical service
  • Heated national Kyrgyz yurts for taking food and leisure activities
  • Washstands and toilet
  • Luggage room
  • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz
Altitude service:
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents:
    • Camp 2 (5300 meters)
    • Camp 3 (6100 meters)
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Personal high-altitude mountain guide during the entire ascent program
  • Rent of oxygen equipment
  • Rent of oxygen cylinders
Services for an additional fee:
  • Accommodation in national Kyrgyz yurts (3600 meters): every yurt are equipped with comfortable furniture and personal bathroom
  • Mobile sauna in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • High speed Internet (Wi-Fi) in the Base Camp (3600 meters)
  • Satellite Internet in the Camp 1 (4400 meters)
  • Personal equipment rental
  • Porter service
Gigts:
  • Climbing certificate
  • Free hot tea and coffee with sweets (candies, cookies, jams, etc.), hot drinking water in the Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Cake for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak
  • Unique T-shirt with a cool print for climbers who have reached the top of Lenin Peak


We do not provide luggage storage services in Camp 2 (5300 m) and Camp 3 (6100 m), and hence we are not responsible for any items left there unattended.

 

We have luggage storage facilities only at the Base Camp (3600 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m). Please use them if you want to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

  • How to get to Base camp
    Visas, Permits
    Route Map

  • Important information
  • Ascension strategy.
    Equpment. GPS.
    High-altitude products

  • FAQ

  • Recommendations

  • Instructions

 

 

How to get there

The starting point for the expedition to Lenin Peak is the city of Osh. Osh (or as it is more often called the “southern capital”) is the largest city in the south of Kyrgyzstan, where you will be greeted by good-natured and hospitable people, lively green streets, a colourful Oriental bazaar and the city?s main attraction - the Sulayman Mountain (Sulaiman-Too). This mountain rises right in the middle of the city and looks more spectacular against the background of busy city life, reminding the close proximity of its majestic brothers - the Pamir mountains. Having left this hospitable city, the expedition members go over  Chiirchik and Taldyk passes along the Pamir Highway (the M41) to the village  Sary Tash. Further, the path runs along the Alay valley to the village of Kashkasu, in its suroundings there is a bridge over the Kyzyl-Suu River, the crossing of which completes the “asphalt” part of the journey. The wide Alay Valley and almost 2 hours of off-road driving lead travellers to the Base Camp of Lenin Peak on the "Edelweiss Glade" (3600 m).

There are three options for arriving at the Base Camp of Lenin Peak:

1. Via Osh (also nicknamed as "The Southern Capital of Kyrgyzstan"). From Osh to the Base Camp of the Lenin Peak we drive along the Grand Pamir Tract. Recently new flights to Osh from Moscow and also from other cities of the CIS have been opened, as well as visa regime has been simplified, so the way of getting to Base Camp via Osh is the cheapest and most convenient one, as it allows saving your money and, most importantly, your time.
2. Via Bishkek (capital city of Kyrgyzstan). Flying Bishkek to Osh (note that your luggage allowance is 15 kilograms and excess weight is charged at EUR 0.5 for every additional kilo).
3. Via Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, and then by car for 6-7 hours along the picturesque mountain Kamchik pass in the Fergana Valley. It is worth noting that the citizens of more than 80 countries have a visa-free regime for entering Uzbekistan (more information about the visa to Uzbekistan can be found here). Please note that upon arrival via Tashkent participants of expedition must have a foreign passport.

Our Base Camp is situated in the alpine zone, on the Edelweiss Glade (3600 m), which is an ideal place for relaxation and full recovery after acclimatization hikes. This significantly increases the chances of a successful ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak.

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Visas, Permits

Attention to the participants from European and other foreign countries!

In the beginning of August 2012 a law “About introduction of a visa-free regime for citizens of some states within 60 days” came into force. According to this law, the citizens of 44 countries from the list below have a right to enter Kyrgyzstan and stay on the territory of this republic without Kyrgyz visa during 60 days (not longer). This considerably simplifies a possibility of coming to Kyrgyzstan, cuts down expenses, and gives a significant advantage to those of our travelers who earlier had to buy the package with the option of arrival and departure via Bishkek, as it was possible to get Kyrgyz visa only at the Consular department of “Manas” airport on arrival.

The list of the states concerning which citizens the unilateral visa-free regime within 60 days is entered:

Australia
Austria
Bahrain
Belgium
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Brunei Darussalam
Canada
Croatia
Czech Republic
Denmark
Estonia
Finland
France
Germany
Greece
Hungary
Iceland
Ireland
Italy
Kuwait
Latvia
Liechtenstein
Lithuania
Luxembourg
Malta
Monaco
Netherlands
New Zealand
Norway
Poland
Portugal
Qatar
Republic of Korea
Saudi Arabia
Singapore
Slovakia
Slovenia
Spain
Sweden
Switzerland
United Arab Emirates
United Kingdom
United States of America
Vatican

- All the participants of Lenin Peak ascension program, in accordance with the existing rules, are obliged to issue a permit to zone of border control, where the Lenin Peak is located. In order to issue this permit, it is necessary to send us the copy of your passport not later than 1 month before your arrival and point out planned period of your stay in the region of Lenin Peak.

The infrastructure of "Central Asia Travel" camps at the foot of Lenin Peak

 

Important information:

- The program for climbing Lenin Peak belongs to the category of extreme types of active tourism! Each participant is fully responsible for their decision to participate in the program and bears complete responsibility for all their actions and all possible consequences of their participation in this extreme program.

- Before leaving the territory of the camps (BC and C1), each participant, for their own safety, is obliged to inform the head of rescue team in C1 (there is a possibility to get a walkie-talkie), and the BC commandant in the Base Camp about where the participant is going to and at what time is planning to get to the point of destination. Only under this condition, the rescue team is able to quickly start searching for a participant if the latter does not arrive at the stated point at the stated time. Central Asia Travel is not responsible for the actions of participants, as well as for the consequences of their actions that took place outside the territory of Base Camp and Camp 1.

- Insurance is obligatory. It is necessary for the very extreme case which we do not feel like thinking about before travelling. However, common sense makes us to take care of it in order to feel really safe on the mountain, because the services of rescue team and emergency transportation are quite expensive. The amount of an insurance policy must be not less than 20,000 US dollars, and you must obtain policy at home country before leaving for the expedition. A scanned copy of an individual insurance policy must be sent to us in advance, in the course of a preliminary correspondence. In addition, immediately upon arrival at the Base Camp, a copy of the insurance policy should be handed over to the Commandant.

Requirements for Insurance policy:

Our company DOES NOT WORK WITH GLOBAL VOYAGER ASSISTANT;
The amount of the insurance policy must be at least 20,000 USD;
In the "activity" (or "sport ") field "MOUNTAINEERING” must be specified;
The country of stay is Kyrgyzstan;
The effective dates of the insurance policy must coincide with the dates of stay in Kyrgyzstan;
An insurance policy should cover "emergency transportation of the affected person" (make sure that this clause is included when you apply for insurance policy);

Before applying for an insurance policy, please clarify with the insurance company what Assistant it works with.

Note:

- We can organize any personal version of the Lenin Peak tour with an individual program.

- To obtain a pass to the border control zone and to register with the Ministry of Internal Affairs, you must send a photocopy of your passport no later than 1 month before your arrival and specify the planned duration of your stay.
Kyrgyzstan has a visa-free regime with Russia and the CIS countries. For Russian citizens, to travel around Kyrgyzstan, it is enough to have an internal passport.
For entry to Uzbekistan, citizens of Russia and the CIS countries must have a foreign passport.

- Those participants who have chosen “VIP”, “Business”, “Business Plus”, “Group Tour” packages are provided with the necessary set of food products for ascent.
The set of products includes: instant soups and cereals, canned beef stew, canned fish and other canned food, sausages, cheese, cereals, pasta, condensed milk, chocolate, chocolate bars, sweets, dried fruits, nuts, tea, coffee, sugar, cookies, bread (including fresh local flat bread “Lepeshka”), fresh vegetables and fruits, etc.
However, there may not be any special gourmet high altitude products in the range, so if you need something refined or special (like freeze-dried meat), which you are used to, it is better to bring it with you.

If you need more information about our Base Camp, additional services, route of ascending or if you have any questions, please contact us without hesitation, we will be happy to help you.

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How do communications work at the foot of Lenin Peak?

  1. Mobile communication.
    If you have roaming service activated, it also operates in the BC. It is much cheaper not to use the roaming service, but to buy a SIM card from a local mobile operator: for buying you need a passport or ID card for a week, SIM cards are sold on every corner of Osh and Bishkek. Note that the best mobile operators are MegaСom, Beeline, and O!.
  2. Walkie-talkies and frequency range.
    In order to ensure the safety during the ascent, we give them out free, one per group. An individual participant also receives one Walkie-Talkie for climbing, free of charge, but with a deposit. If you have your own Walkie-Talkies, you are allowed to bring them with you. In this case, it is not necessary to have any special documents for the customs office. It is not always possible to configure your Walkie-Talkies on a common communication channel though.
    We mainly use the BaoFeng Walkie-Talkies with a range of 446 MHz.
    Every 3 hours, the head of rescue team of C1 gets in touch with mountaineers (communication time is 09:00, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00, 21:00), while the standby radio transmitter is always on (working for reception) in case of emergency.
    Does the relief allow establishing a connection with BC and with C1 from any point of the route?
    Mostly yes.
    Do the radio transmitters provided by the company have a headset?
    No, headphones and a microphone are not provided.
    Are AA batteries or rechargeable batteries used as power supply of Walkie-Talkies?
    Large and small rechargeable batteries.
  3. Internet.
    Base Camp and Camp 1 have access to high speed internet (Wi-Fi). You can use it for an additional fee (see the price list for additional services), however you should keep in mind that in bad weather (precipitation, interference with the Earth's electromagnetic field) it does not work very well.

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Medical chest of the climbers

The list of medicaments that are used during
the climbing of Lenin Peak 7134 m
The title Quantity
Dekamevit (vitamins) pills
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) pills
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning at altitude) pills
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) pills
Nifedipine (edema of the lungs) pills
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) pills
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) inj. By 1 ml.
Dexamethasone pills
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) pills
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) pills
Trental (widens peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml.
Riboxinum (to improve one’s heart/liver function) pills
Xantinol nicotinate (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills,inj by 2ml.
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) pills
Furosemide (diuretic) pills
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) pills
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) inj. By 2 ml.
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) pills
Verospirone (diuretic) pills

 

LENIN PEAK ASCENSION TACTIC

 

The assent route to Lenin Peak is not technically difficult, however, it is necessary to take into account such factors as extreme weather conditions (weather can be completely unpredictable in the Pamirs) and significant altitude.

A successful expedition requires good physical preparation, appropriate equipment and proper acclimatization. For reliable step-by-step acclimatization, it is recommended to make several radial exits to the height that at first will seem very severe (headache, loss of appetite, lack of oxygen). Only when you adapt and feel good at high altitude   you will be able to storm the peak. At the same time, it is necessary to approach the all issues during the ascent in a balanced, rational, not emotional way, always follow the instructions of the guide and use common sense.

We advise you not to make solo ascents, but to find a good partner, join any group of mountaineers or use the services of an experienced high-altitude guide. Statistics data demonstrate that most accidents on the Mountain occur with solo climbers.

Climbing description

Scheme of expedition to Lenin Peak

1. Base Camp (3600 m) to Camp 1 (4400 m)

Important: it is recommended to ascend to Camp 1 after acclimatization in the Base Camp (3600m) for at least 1 day.

The Ascent to the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200 m) along a good, well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 - 2.5 hours, depending on the physical conditions of the participants.  It is always windy on the pass and it can be covered with snow.

The descent from the pass is not difficult and quite short. Further, the track becomes almost horizontal and stretches parallel to the left moraine dump for a long time. We cross the turbulent mountain stream and go up to the track leading to the Lenin Glacier. It takes us about 2.5-3 hours. We have to walk along the body of the glacier for quite   short time - about 30-40 minutes, skirting a few cracks on the way.

Total ascent time from Base Camp to Camp 1:  4-8 hours, depending on physical fitness and weather conditions.

2. Camp 1 (4400 m) - Camp 2 (5300 m)

Important: the transition from C1 to C2 is reasonably considered to be the most dangerous part of climbing (avalanches, closed crevasses). Therefore, to start climbing this part you have to be the most prepared in order to minimize various risks. It is recommended to ascend to Camp 2 after acclimatization in Camp 1 (4400 m) for at least 1 day. One day in C1 should be devoted to practical training on technical safety on the glacier, check your equipment in action, work out interaction with a partner in a rope team when moving and resting, etc.

We leave Camp 1 (4400 m) and move along the glacier directly to the centre of the North Face, bypassing multiple  crevasses, until the steep snow-covered ascent and then upwards  to it (80 m, steepness 35 - 40 degrees)  using a fixed rope or zigzag walking. Then we go up along the slope of the North Face.
Important: regardless of the amount of snow and time of the day, this slope is an avalanche hazard zone, since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. To minimize the risks of avalanche danger, it is recommended to start ascending from Camp 1 at 4.00 o'clock  in the morning and do not stop on the way for  resting longer than 5-10 minutes. There are several safe places on the North Face for a longer rest, which will be shown to you by a guide or the head of rescue team directly on the spot. In addition, an early exit will allow you to avoid long walking under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this part of the route.  

Further, following the traverse to the right you will access to the snow plateau, popularly known as “Scovoroda” (Frying Pan). This traverse is extremely avalanche hazardous, therefore it is necessary to pass it as quickly as possible, avoiding any stops for rest, even for 5 minutes.

After the traverse of "Scovoroda", you will ascend along the talus slope up to Camp 2. Throughout this section of the route, it is recommended to move in a rope team, since on the way there are a lot of closed and open crevasses.

The optimal time for leaving Camp 1 (4400 m) is 4 a.m.

Travel time: 5-10 hours.

3. Camp 2 (5300 m) - Camp 3 (6100 m)

From Camp 2 we go up along the slope 30 - 40 degrees onto the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks; there may be very strong wind on the ridge. Then we move left along a gentle ridge to the steep ascent to the Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m). To ascend this summit you require to climb a slope of 30-40 degrees walking through deep snow. In the area of the summit Camp 3 (6100 m) is situated.

The hardest part of the route is the steep ascent from 5,850 m to Camp 3. In the upper part, from 6000 m to 6100 m, there are closed crevasses, be careful! While transiting from C2 to C3 mountaineers often do not climb in a rope team.  We recommend you to move along the section from 5950 m to L3 in a rope team though.

The optimal time for departure is before 9.00 in the morning.

Travel time: 4 to 7 hours.

4. Camp 3 (6100 m) - Lenin Peak (7134 m) - Camp 3 (6100 m)

From Camp 3, we will traverse Razdelnaya peak in a south-east direction and descend to the saddle. On the saddle there are several dangerous, mostly  closed  crevasses, so it is also desirable to pass  this place in a rope team. From the saddle the climbers go up along the rocky steep ascent until reaching the ridge plateau. Here, some teams prefer to set up intermediate Camp 4 (6400 m), but most climbers do not do it. Each team takes the decision whether to install Camp 4 on its own.

Further climbers move along the gently sloping wide ridge to the narrow steep ice section (called ”Nozh” - “Knife”). Strong wind gusts are possible here. The gradient of the “Nozh” is approximately 35-50 degrees, the length is 60-70 meters. It is recommended to pass this section using a rope, in crampons, because in case of falling, there is a danger of skidding off to the  dumps  on the North Face. Further, the path continues between the rocks along the ridge, then the mountaineers climb along the rock-snow steep section (20-30 m long) until reaching the snow plateau Parachuters (6900-7000 m).

Passing through the snow plateau is hindered by deep snow. It is recommended to cross the plateau in clear weather and good visibility, checking with the GPS-navigator, since in case of poor visibility there is a danger of getting lost.

Further you ascent the extended dome of the summit (through the snow and scree) which has access to the top of Lenin Peak (where you will find the largest cairn laid of stones). To descend   you have to take the same route as to ascend.

A very early start at 3 - 4 o?clock in the morning from Camp 3 (6100 m) is obligatory.

Total travel time: 10 - 14 hours

Important: the recommended time to start descending is 14-00 - regardless of whether you have reached the summit or not.

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GPS-trek of climbing Lenin Peak via Razdelnaya summit

Below you may find GPS-itinerary how to climb Lenin Peak. Please kindly note that due to glacier mobility, changes in relief and occurrence of new cracks, path to connect Camp 1 (4400 m) and Camp 2 (5300 m) and appropriate GPS-coordinates within this site may change from year to year.

Equipment to be used during the ascent of Lenin Peak (7,134 m)
Suggestions to select proper mountaineering equipment, clothes and footwear for the ascent

Our preparations for the ascent of a seven-thousander will include the selection of mountaineering equipment and outfit.

Important:

It is essential that you follow the reliable and proven multi-layer principle of clothing (thermal underwear + fleece/wool/down insulation + protection from wind, moisture and frost). By varying the number of the layers you can quickly adapt to the change of the weather and your personal sensations, not allowing yourselves to be exposed to heat or cold.
Your successful ascent depends on the quality of the outfit. A set of carefully selected clothes and high-quality equipment would allow you to feel warm and comfortable, not making your rucksack too heavy. You should take with you as much clothes and equipment as you need to ascend the peak and no more, as each extra gramme will turn a heavy burden at high altitudes.
Temperature drops by around 6ºС with each 1,000 vertical metres. In addition, you should be prepared for abrupt weather changes and strong fluctuations between daytime and nighttime temperatures.
You should remember that how you sense the ambient temperature depends on wind strength. The stronger the wind, the colder you feel.
The ultraviolet solar radiation is very strong at high altitudes, intensified by the ice and snow reflecting to about 80% of sunlight. Therefore, you must always wear a headgear and goggles and use sun cream with a high protection factor (SPF 25-40) even in cloudy weather. The intensity of ultraviolet radiation increases by 10% to 12% with every 1,000 vertical metres.

Below we give detailed analysis and description of clothes, footwear and equipment you will need to have during the ascent of Lenin Peak:

Equipment to be used during the ascent of Lenin Peak (7,134 m)
1 Trekking boots (Scarpa kailash GTX, Salomon Quest 4D GTX, The North Face Wreck Mid GTX or similar) or hiking shoes (SALEWA MTN Trainer GTX, Garmont Dragontail MNT GTX or similar), andor sandals (Teva, Keen or similar) to travel within and between the lower camps (Base Camp and Camp 1). Besides, you need a pair of light and open footwear for Osh, which features high summer temperatures.
2 Boots for high alttitude - leather or plastic, with two or three layers, for altitudes 6,000 m and higher (la Sportiva Spantik, Scarpa Phantom and similar). With or without overboots.
3 Assault jacket GORE-TEX (RedFox Vector GTX III or similar).
4 Assault trousers GORE-TEX or Bib and brace overalls GORE-TEX (RedFox Vector GTX III or similar).
5 Downy jacket / PrimaLoft or ThermoBall synthetic insulated jackets (BASK Valdez or similar)
6 Bib and brace overalls GORE-TEX (for instance, RedFox Gravity GTX). Waterproof and windproof assault trousers (p.4), you do not need an overall.
7 Downy sleeping bag or a sleeping bag with synthetic insulation with comfort rating temperature not higher than -15 ºС (BASK MUSTANG 700+FP or similar).
8 Suit POLARTEC (for instance, jacket BASK Kondor V3 + trousers BASK Vinson Pro V2)
9 Skin tight linen thermals POLARTEC - two sets: thin thermals to wick moisture away from the skin (for instance RedFox Dry Zone) and thick ones for insulation (for instance, jacket + trousers BASK)
10 Mittens for the high altitude ascents downy orPrimaLoft (etc.) synthetic insulated (for instance, BASK Brooks-D V2orBASK Creative Mitten V3)
Insulated down or synthetic booties to sleep in  - PrimaLoft etc. (for instance, Baffin Cush Booty).
11 Thin Gloves, Fleece, Polartec, WindBloc and thick insulated gloves (for instance, RedFox Ice)
12 Peaked cap or panama hat + insulated winter hat. A light sun runner cap(Outdoor Research Sun Runner Cap, Outdoor Research Activeice Cap or similar) or panama hat (Outdoor Research Conzumel Sombrero, Outdoor Research Helios Sun Hat or similar) + insulated hat (Outdoor Research Windwarrior Hat, Outdoor Research Peruvian Hat or similar).
13 Knitted T-shirts.
14 High gaiters to protect your feet from snow(for instance,Outdoor Research Rocky Mountain High Gaiters)
15 Socks-POLAR, thermal socks, like Boreal TREK Thermolite or similars + ordinary socks.
16 Balaclava(BASK THOR V2, BASK Cascade V2 or similar) or thermal buff Thermal Buff).
17 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5 - 1.0 litres or Polar vacuum bottle with insulation (it is easier).
18 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 with a rain cover to prolong the service life of your rucksack and accessories.
19 Lip balm.
20 Sun cream (SPF 25-40).
21 Transport trunk. Not essential, but it facilitates the transportation of the things to Base Camp and further horseback transportation to Camp 1.
22 Pen knife.
23 Snow goggles + spare sunglasses.
24 Telescopic walking sticks.
25 Head torch.
26 First-aid kit personal.
27 Dishes personal.
28 Ascender right or left handled - 1 piece. Or easier one WildCountry Ropeman or Petzl Tibloc.
29 Descender/Belay “figure of 8 knot”. Much more actual is Petzl Reverso,and the better is Black Diamond ATC Guide, "VENTO Lukoshko" or similars.
30 Harness.
31 Two cords (cordalettes), 6-7 mm in diameter and 4-5 m in length.
32 Ice screws (2 peaces).
33 Carabin with muff (3+1 pieces).
34 Tent 2-3 m.
35 Mat "KARIMAT". A thin mat + thin air mattress would be a better choice, likeTherm-A-rest Neo-Air XLite (comfort and warm).
36 Rope (nylon, seylon) 8.6 - 10 mm, 30 - 60 m.
Its length depends on the number of people in a roped team. In sports 45 m for 2 persons and 60 m for 3 persons (with a distance of 15 m between climbers) are regarded optimal lengths.
37 Gas stove for threaded cartridges.
38 Gas cylinder (230 ml.).
39 Crampons; they must fit your boots.
40 Ice-axe with a straight shaft and without accessories; should be selected based on your stature (for instance, Black Diamond Raven).
41 Snow shovel (1 pc per 1 tent would be enough).
42 Radio station metric waves (not essential, can be taken on the site for a deposit).
43 Utensils for cooking in C2 and C3.
44 First-aid kit group.

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A set of products for the ascent period for packages
"Business plus", "Group with guide", "With oxygen", "VIP package" and "VIP with oxygen":

 

Fast food products:
  • assortment of soups
  • puree
  • noodles
  • porridge (oatmeal, buckwheat)

Meat products:
  • beef/chicken sausages
  • hunting sausages
  • smoked sausage
  • lard (smoked/salted)

Dried fruits:
  • dried apricots
  • dried grapes
  • dried prunes
  • dried figs
  • dried dates

Beverages:
  • black/green tea in bags
  • black/3 in 1 instant coffee
  • fruit kissels assortment

Other:
  • bread (flatbread)
  • crackers
  • wafers of crispbread
  • salt
  • fresh vegetables and fruits
Canned:
  • beef stew
  • fish stew (herring, small fish, sprats, tuna)
  • meat pates

Cheese:
  • dutch cheese
  • processed cheese
  • smoked cheese

Nuts:
  • peanuts with sesame seeds
  • sugar-coated peanuts
  • walnut kernels

Sweets:
  • candies (caramel, lollipops, chocolate)
  • cookies (shortbread, oat, biscuit)
  • fruit/chocolate candy bars
  • gozinaki
  • chocolate bar
  • condensed milk (stand-up pouch)
  • fruit jam (stand-up pouch)

Household items:
  • toilet paper
  • paper towels

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  1. What are the minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Lenin Peak?
  2. What insurance cover limit do you suggest?
  3. How to issue visa and resolving documents?
  4. What kind of climbing gears do I need to have?
  5. Which time is best for successful ascending?
  6. How to apply for tailor-made participation on the expedition?
  7. How do I book the services of a high-altitude guide?
  8. How do I book the services of high-altitude porters?
  9. What about food?
  10. What currency is in circulation at Lenin Peak camps?
  11. How much money should I pay for each extra day in addition to the programme?
  12. How do I pay for my tour?
  13. Is it possible to buy products for ascending in Osh, before removal to the Base Camp?
  14. Where can I find information about the flight schedule?
  15. Ensuring safety at Lenin Peak?

1. What are the minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Lenin Peak?
Technical qualification requirements for climbing Lenin PeakLenin Peak is not that technically difficult to climb. Still, you should have certain climbing experience. For instance, you should be able to move on snow-covered and ice-covered slopes of different gradients, use crampons and be fully aware of safety rules in the mountains. In case you do not have any previous climbing experience we suggest that you book services of our mountain guide. What is essential is having a sound physical condition with good acclimatization (especially if you don’t have any previous high-altitude ascent experience). Ascending along the standard route does not require any complex techniques but you should always take into account a risk of a possible quick change of weather and the general high-altitude environment so use your caution and common sense. We suggest “by step” acclimatization that means having a series of 2-3 interim climbs up and down the route with every next climb reaching a higher altitude. Your first climb may be very difficult for you (heavy headache, little or no appetite, lack of oxygen etc.). Do not forget to see our doctor before starting the climb!

 

2. What insurance cover limit do you suggest?
Insurance is prerequisite - for that extreme case You never want to think over about. But common sense gives a prompt that You have to care about having it in order to feel being secured at ascending because service of rescue team and transport cost quite expensive. So, Your individual insurance policy has to be drawn on not less than 30.000$ (USA). Besides, You have to do that being at Your Motherland - before You arrival in start point of expedition. Please, send us scanned copy of the individual insurance policy beforehand at preliminary correspondence. Besides, you should give copy of the insurance policy to Commandant at once after arrival in BC.

Requirements for insurance policy.

1) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30000
2) In the field "occupation" (or "sports practice") "Mountaineering" must be notified
3) As Country of stay - Kyrgyzstan
4) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan
5) The insurance policy must cover at least "first aid" and "transport of affected by helicopter if necessary" (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

Note:
Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.

Please remember: our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.

 

3. How to issue visa and resolving documents?
The citizens of CIS countries (except Turkmenistan) do not need to get a visa to Kyrgyzstan.
For issuing the other documents (permission for entering Boundary Examination Zone) you have to send us scanned copy of your passport of good quality and state the exact dates of your trip not later than 1 month before the trip begins.

The citizens of Europe, USA, Latin America, Australia and others do have to organise a visa to the Kyrgyzstan Republic. There is a list of 45 countries who`s citizens can get a tourist visa to Kyrgyzstan by the simplified system, i.e. without a visa invitation.
The citizens of other countries, which are not included in this list, have to have a visa invitation. The general requirements for obtaining visas and the list of necessary documents are stated here.

The price for the visa invitation is included in the cost of VIP and Business packages. In order for our company to obtain a visa invitation for you, you have to e-mail us the following information:
- Full name ( Mr./Mrs.);
- Citizenship;
- Marital status;
- Information about husband/wife (date and place of birth, place of work);
- Information about children: * Full name, date and place of birth (Please, indicate a definite country and city);
- Passport number;
- Date of passport issue;
- Date of passport expire;
- Home address and phone number;
- Place of work and occupation (this issue should include name of organization, city of its location, full address and telephone);
- Place of receiving the visa;
- Period of your staying in Kyrgyzstan;
- Passport scanned copy of good quality.

*** All the items should be filled in properly!

Cost of visa invitation to Kyrgyzstan is 35 USD/ .
Cost of one month visa to Kyrgyzstan is 40 USD/ .

In a variant of arriving via Tashkent (Uzbekistan) you need to obtain the following visas:
- Visa to Uzbekistan - double entry visa for one month.
- Visa to Kyrgyzstan - double entry visa for one month.

Information about visa issuing procedure to Uzbekistan you will find referring this link.
Besides visa you also have to issue various resolving documents (permission for entering Boundary Examination Zone and registration in OVIR). In order to issue all the necessary documents in time you have to send us the information mentioned above, scanned copy of you passport of good quality and state the exact dates of your trip. All this data should be directed to us not later than 2 months before your trip begins.

 

4. What kind of climbing gears do I need to have?
Extreme and unpredictable weather, high altitude and expedition style require reliable high-quality equipment. See the full list and the recommendations on selecting equipment for a successful ascent to Lenin Peak here »»

5. Which time is best for successful ascending?
Best time for successful ascending to the Lenin Peak is from beginning of July to second half of August as the weather then is more or less stable and predictable. Yet everything is changeable in the World - especially weather in the Pamir.

6. How to apply for tailor-made participation on the expedition?
Order is:
After receiving your confirmation about participation in the tour we send you Application form with individual serial number (S.N.). You should fill it thoroughly and send it to us by e-mail. After that we input your request into a list-register.
Please, take into consideration that before the program starts each member should do the following things:
- Take out an individual insurance policy (beforehand) with cover not less than 30.000$, and to give a copy of it to Commandant of BC at once after arrival in BC (with all ICE contacts);
- Send us scanned copy of passport;
- Have positive go ahead from your private doctor;
- Give ICE contacts of close relatives.
Attention! Please, send us all required documents beforehand!!!

 

7. How do I book the services of a high-altitude guide?
You can order a mountain guide`s services during preliminary correspondence process before joining us.

 

8. How do I book the services of high-altitude porters?
You can book the services of porters during the process of preliminary correspondence, and at Base Camp or Camp 1. The cost of a porters` services is determined by the cost for one kilo of luggage which they carry: the heavier your luggage is, the higher the cost will be. Rates for porters` services you will find in the price list for separate services.
Note: Do not arrange porters who are not working officially for our company as in this case the company does not take responsibility for the safety of your property.
In the same vein avoid ordering the horse-keeper`s service: don`t try to make deals with them on your own regarding transporting your load from BC to C1 and back by horse! You risk searching for your belongings for a very long time or even potentially never finding them at all! All questions regarding transporting your luggage by horse should be decided via the Commandants of our camps (BC and C1) - only on this proviso are we able to guarantee the safety of your belongings.

 

9. What about food?
Meals at the Base Camp and Camp 1 of Lenin peakYou will be provided with three-time-a-day meals at the Base Camp and Camp 1. But at Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4 you will have to organize meals on your own. If you book "VIP", "Business" or "Combined group" package, we suggest you a special service: you can take fixed set of products for climbing from our back office at the Base Camp. Fixed set of products includes: fresh fruits and vegetables, packet soups, canned food, macaroni, cheese, sausage, butter, sugar, tea, coffee, dried fruits, biscuits, wafers, sweets etc. But note please that we don’t have some special high altitude subimates in our assortment. So, if you got used to something special or delicacies then please bring it from home.

 

10. What currency is in circulation at Lenin Peak camps?
In the Camps of Lenin Peak US dollars, Euros, Russian rubles and Kyrgyz soms are all that`s accepted. US dollars are the most preferable.

 

11. How much money should I pay for each extra day in addition to the programme?
For the service in Base Camp - 30 USD/per day.
For staying in Camp 1 - 45 USD/per day.
The cost includes: accommodation at a tent, three-time-a-day hot meals and usage of the Camp`s infrastructure.
Note: “Business” and “Combined group” packages can enjoy our service in Camps as follows:
- Base Camp - under the tour program.
- Camp 1 - 5 days.

 

12. How do I pay for my tour?
Order of payment:
- Member`s request for participation in Lenin peak expedition is registered at once after making a 30%-50% pre-payment from the cost of chosen package, it should be done not later than 1 month before the season starts (June 15th). Members should send us a scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.
- Not later than 2 weeks before the date of arrival member should confirm (or cancel) his participation in the program, and he should make payment of the rest sum from chosen package, having sent us scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.

13. Is it possible to buy products for ascending in Osh, before removal to the Base Camp?
Yes, of course it is. You will
be able to buy all the necessary products from Osh bazaar or in one of the stores on the day of arrival in Osh or just before your leaving for Base Camp

 

14. Where can I find information about the flight schedule?
You can get information about the flight schedule by clicking on the link.

15. Ensuring safety at Lenin Peak?
Every mountaineer who has decided to apply for participation in an expedition to Lenin Peak should be fully aware that ascending this Pamir seven-thousander falls into the category of extreme types of tourism and is definitely associated with significant risks to health and life. In the area of Lenin peak, there are no well-developed mountain rescue facilities that provide rescue services on a permanent basis, like those in Europe. Therefore, our Company does our best to ensure the safety of clients by providing services at our Base Camps at the foot of Lenin Peak and rendering related assistance to the mountaineers during the ascent of this seven-thousander. To ensure the safety for all the expedition members, we on a voluntary basis build up our own rescue team consisting of experienced guides and mountaineering instructors. Considering rescue operations are always costly contingencies breaking the itineraries of climbers and putting additional load upon our team, we request each expedition participant to obtain an insurance policy in due time, since the policy money will then cover the cost of search and rescue operations if necessary.
Understanding your passionate desire to ascend Lenin Peak, we, for our part, do our best to organize everything so as to minimize all possible emergencies, but we hope that you, in turn, will make every effort to protect yourself from possible emergencies on the mountain.
Details here»».

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Physical training and acclimatization.
Physical training and acclimatization for climbing Lenin peakThere is a common opinion that out of all seven-meters-high peaks of the CIS Peak Lenin is most easy-to-climb. This partly is true but not for one hundred percent.
Firstly, one should not forget that the decent height of Peak Lenin alone, which is in excess of 7,000m, makes it an object of high-altitude mountaineering, not to mention that any mountain has to always be dealt with respect. Despite the climbing route technically being not complex, treacherous factors such as unpredictable weather and depressing altitude can play decisive role in the success or failure of your expedition. Not only good physical preparedness but, too, appropriate quality gear and, of course, good acclimatization (especially to those inexperienced high-altitude climbers) are crucial for the success of their climb. Do not spare your efforts and days for getting full-value acclimatization - otherwise it may turn into a higher loss of time wasted in the course of ascent for recreation of your energy and, in the worst case, put the success of the entire climb under question.
Usually, consequences of anoxia (oxygen starvation) are already felt at the altitude of 3,500m to 4,000m. At such altitudes and higher the organism of even most healthy though untrained and non-acclimatized person may develop altitude sickness (local Kyrgyz call it as “tootek”). By the way, even passengers travelling along the Pamir Highway sometimes may be taken by altitude sickness. Symptoms of altitude sickness are as follows: acute drop of physical performance, dizziness, headache, nausea and, in some cases, vomiting. In worst cases altitude sickness may cause fatal consequences. There is no medication against the altitude sickness, and the only remedy that invariably helps is as fast as possible downwards transportation of the patient.
Most effective means that helps to prevent altitude sickness has always been altitude acclimatisation which is based on human organism’s ability of adaptation to the rarefied atmosphere obtained as a result of series of ascents and stays at higher altitudes. The organism acclimatised in this way can easier withstand harmful consequences of oxygen starvation. The one aiming at the summit should first carry out a number of forays to the higher and higher altitude and only after having ensured acceptable level of acclimatisation proceed with storming the summit.
Our tourist company offers a standard programme designed to take into account all conditions prerequisite to good acclimatisation, including extra days in case of bad weather. The programme we offer provides optimum conditions for successful ascension to the Peak Lenin.
Ideally, any high-altitude climbing should be preceded by training which is to include climbing a summit that is lower than the main-goal one. For instance, aiming at a “seventhousander” one should have first climbed a mountain at least 5,000m high.

 

Safety precautions for climbing Lenin peakSimple truths of safety precautions.
Another aspect is safety. We do not recommend climbing solo as the recent history of Peak Lenin solo-climbing tends to report growing number of accidents. What we do suggest is your finding a good partner or joining any group of climbers. Your better off would be hiring an experienced high-altitude guide for you so that at any time you had a confidence about your next step and, in case of hardship or emergency, you had a reliable person nigh you.
We recommend you AT ALL TIMES TO HAVE WITH YOU YOUR PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT which shall contain medicines matching your particular individual health conditions and tolerances. Besides, you personal medical kit must contain other medications common with and widely used by high-altitude mountaineers (see in the “Medical Kit” section).

 

Foodstuff.
As to foodstuff and cooking, there will be no particular problems for you up to 4,400m - our personnel will take care of this. What really may put you in a dilemma is your high-altitude foodstuff beyond 4,400m. You should remember, at higher altitudes water boils at lower temperatures hence it takes longer to get your food cooked. More time for cooking means more gas canisters and thence more heavy backpacks/loads to carry. Standard programme assumes gas consumption rate for two persons equivalent to 1 canister (230 grams) per day. You may also buy brand new canisters from the BC manager.
More about foodstuff. Ideally, your high-altitude foodstuff should require no cooking/boiling, be of less possible weight and of maximum possible energy value (luckily, most of today’s supermarkets are happy to satisfy nearly all your gastronomic whims). Importantly, do not expect a last-minute shopping high-altitude foodstuff in Osh - you will hardly be able to find any good-quality concentrated or sublimated or packet foodstuff there. Take your own one from your home country.
As a rule of thumb, most of mountaineers feel apathy towards eating at altitudes above 6,000m. Therefore, it doesn’t make sense carrying a lot of foodstuff to the upper camps. Trust us, better part of the stuff you would bring upon your shoulders to the upper camps will stay there forever without being eaten. You should better think over diversification of your high-altitude ration. Tastes, surely, differ, but majority of climbers prefer the food that is liquid and saline. It has clear and logical explanation: thaw-out water used for cooking has practically zero content of salts while the loss of liquid (dehydration) by organism at higher altitudes is a continuous, normal, non-stop process. At the heights above 6,000m, a human must consume up to 4 litres of liquid per day so that to compensate the loss. Some climbers, with pleasure, have food that tastes sweet-and-sour. Important note: avoid over-diligence, as digestive-system disorders are quite commonly seen during climbs and are always annoying when you are at your last stretch before the summit. Take quality of your water at the heights up to 4,500m as your high priority. Better use mineral water that is available on sell in both BC and ABC. Do not make saving on your health!

 

Carrying loads from BC to C1.
Local population always readily offer their services to travellers - with carrying their loads, providing means of transportation etc. Take our advice: if you use services of our company then you would better be using services of those local Kyrgyz people who cooperate with our company on legal contractual basis. This is the company’s prerequisite condition with respect to safety of and warranty to your loads and settling of any disputes that may arise in case of loss of or damage to your loads.

 

Paperwork.
We highly recommend that you provide your passport details to us well beforehand - at least 3 weeks, better 1 month before your planned arrival in Kyrgyzstan, so that we could timely obtain all necessary permits for you.

 

Instructions
(for the attention of Lenin Peak expedition participant)

1. Arrival of the participant to the Base Camp.

In order to take part in the program of “Ascension to the Lenin Peak” on arrival to the Base Camp of Central Asia Travel Company the participant should follow the items below:

- Register himself at the Commandant of the Base Camp;
- Provide the Commandant of the Base Camp with the following documents:
Copy of the individual insurance policy with all the contacts in case of emergency (it is being kept with the Commandant);
Medical certificate, which includes description of health condition and permission from the doctor for such kind of high-altitude ascensions (later is being kept with the Commandant);
A list, which includes surnames, names, addresses, phone numbers and e-mails of all the persons, whom it will be necessary to get in touch with in case of emergency (is being kept with the Commandant);
- Sign the Form 1 and hand it to the Commandant of the Base Camp;
- Learn the Safety Instruction and put a signature in appropriate journal in the item “With the Safety Instruction is acquainted”.

Attention to the participants arrived according to the package “Combined group option”!
If your guide has set an appointment at the day of arrival - please, do come at the fixed time and place, as your absence on the first appointment without a valid reason will be considered by the management of the Base Camp as refusal from participation in ascension program according to the package “Combined group option”, and you will need to choose any other package for yourself.

2. Rules for all the participants.

Rules for all the participants of the Base Camp and Camp 1 under the Lenin Peak2.1. Each participant must observe cleanliness on the territory of the Base Camp, Camp 1 and on the whole territory of your stay under the Lenin Peak and in all the intermediate camps; garbage in the Base Camp and Camp 1 should be put in appropriate containers for garbage, and in the intermediate camps it is necessary to put it in plastic bags and carry them down for further utilization on descent.

2.2. Each participant must leave his luggage in the cloakroom (yurt-storehouse) before starting of ascension from the Base Camp (Camp 1), only in this case Central Asia Travel Company may guarantee its safety. Do not leave your personal things and equipment in tents and yurts, and in front of them!

2.3. In case any of the participants finds a lost thing (clothes, equipment, implements of the Central Asia Travel Company and etc.) on the territory of the Base Camp or Camp 1 - we ask to inform the Commandant about it and hand him in the lost property.

2.4. We ask every participant to come for breakfasts, lunches and dinners in time, and keep the working schedule of the dining-room if possible.

2.5. Each participant should respect the interests and rights of other participants, should not make noise and not listen to a loud music after 23:00 - you have descended and you are happy, but someone next to you will set off early tomorrow!

2.6. ATTENTION PLEASE! Excessive alcohol drinking in general and before ascent/descent in particular may lead to fatal consequences! Hard drinking and scandalous behavior in the Base Camp and Camp 1 are strictly prohibited!

Company certificate for ascention to the Lenin peak2.7. After descent from the mountain, each participant, regardless of which altitude he managed to reach, is given a personalized company certificate, where it is written the altitude, reached by participant.

2.8. Any change of requirements from your application form’s order made in the initial booking process of the program and requiring from the staff of Central Asia Travel Company additional financial fees and additional time (change of departure date, rebooking of hotels/transport, rebooking of air tickets etc.) must be paid by the member additionally. Price-list on additional services.

2.9. When boarding on transportation, which sets off from the Base Camp to Osh, more attention is paid to those participants, who booked the date of this transfer beforehand, at the form-request. Participants, who want to leave the Base Camp prematurely and change already booked date of transfer “Base Camp - Osh” for an earlier or later date during the program, may board on the transportation at the last turn - only after those, whose date of departure was booked at the form-request.

2.10. Each participant bears financial responsibility for the rented equipment! We ask you to use carefully the property of the Base Camp and Camp 1, not to spoil tents, yurts and camp equipment.

2.11. It is strictly prohibited to smoke at the tents and yurts, drop cigarette ends on the ground on the territory of the Base Camp and Camp 1! It is allowed to smoke only outdoors, cigarette ends should be dropped only into the appropriate containers for garbage!

2.12. ATTENTION PLEASE! Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak is classed as an extreme activity. Each member takes complete responsibility for their decision to participate in this program and is responsible for all actions and all possible consequences of their participation in this program.

2.13. Central Asia Travel Company does not take responsibility for the consequences of actions taken by members before and after BC or C1.

Observation of these simple rules will help everyone to feel here at home!

Photos of the "Ascension to Lenin Peak" tour:

see all photos of Lenin peak »»

Videos of the Lenin Peak tour:
Video about Lenin Peak, video about Base camps, video of ascension on Lenin Peak.

Base Camp of Lenin Peak by Central Asia Travel Advanced Base Camp (4400 m) of Lenin Peak by Central Asia Travel Lenin PeakLenin Peak Slideshow Descent to the glacier’s crevasse. Lenin Peak
Lenin Peak region in the Pamir Mountains is definitely worth visiting

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