KHAN TENGRI PEAK CLIMBING

Ascent to the Khan Tengri peak from the South and from the North

 

Destination: Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan Mountains View the route map »»
Tour itinerary: Bishkek – Karkara – “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp / “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp – Karkara – Bishkek
Tour duration: 21 days / 20 nights

Guaranteed Dates Of Group Tour:

Ascent from the South Ascent from the North
06.08-26.08.2022 23.07-12.08.2022

Ascent to the Khan-Tengry peak from the South and from the North

Khan Tengri Peak (7,010 m/ 23,000 ft), "Lord of the Sky" in Mongolian, is a massive pyramidal peak in the Tien Shan range with amazing geometric symmetry. It is located at the crossing of the borders of China, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Khan Tengri ascent route is technically difficult and physically challenging, it requires mountaineering experience, high-altitude acclimatization and excellent physical fitness.

We organize Khan Tengri Peak expedition in Kyrgyzstan from the North and from the South. A helicopter flight from Karkara is required to get to the "Southern Inylchek" Base Camp or “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp, where the ascent begins.

Climbing Khan Tengri Peak is classed as an extreme activity and involves risks to health and life face to face.

Preliminary dates helicopter flights 2022
(Schedule can be changed!):
July 5, 12, 14, 19, 20, 25, 28, 30
August 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 16, 17, 24, 25
  • Ascent to Khan-Tengry
    from Southern Inylchek
  • Ascent to Khan-Tengry
    from Nothern Inylchek

 

Khan-Tengri Peak Ascent from the Southern Inylchek Glacier:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to a hotel and check-in.
Day 2 Transfer Bishkek - Karkara (460 km). Accommodation "Karkara" Base Camp.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000m).
Day 4 Acclimatization hikes and preparing for the ascent.
Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 8 Descent to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000m).
Day 9 Rest day.
Day 10 Rest day/ preparing for the ascent.
Day 11 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 12 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 13 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 14 Ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m). Descent to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 15 Descent to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000m).
Day 16 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 17 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 18 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 19 Helicopter flight to "Karkara" Base Camp. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 20 Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.
  • Group package
    - 3150 USD/pax
  • Full package
    - 2400 USD/pax
  • Small package
    - 1400 USD/pax

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2022:

Group package 3150 USD/person

The cost of the tour includes:

  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport or railway station of Bishkek;
  • All transfers according to the program;
  • Lunch en route Bishkek - Karkara - Bishkek;
  • All needed documents arrangement (registration for foreigners, permit to the border zone);
  • Service of professional high altitude mountain guide:
    • group of 1-3 persons - 1 guide;
    • group of 4-6 persons - 1 guide + 1 guide's assistant;
    • group of 7-10 persons - 1 guide + 2 guide's assistants.
  • Installed high altitude tents (one tent for 3 persons);
  • Group equipment: ropes (if necessary), gas cartridges and gas burners, a set of utensils for cooking;
  • High altitude products;
  • Helicopter flight to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp and back with all personal equipment (weight is unlimited);
  • Accommodation in hotel with breakfast in Bishkek (3 nights);
  • Accommodation in “Karkara” Base Camp with full board;
  • Services in “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000 m):
    • Accommodation in double and triple tents;
    • Ecological fee for living in the camp;
    • Meals - full board (3 times a day hot varied meals);
    • Shower, sauna, toilet, storage room;
    • Medical service;
    • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz;
    • Consultations with professional mountain guides;
    • Consultations by doctor;
    • Registration in the rescue squad;
    • Use of long-distance radio communication;
    • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie) during ascent (only for groups over 3 persons).

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2022:

Full package 2400 USD/person

The cost of the tour includes:

  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport or railway station of Bishkek;
  • All transfers according to the program;
  • Lunch en route Bishkek - Karkara - Bishkek;
  • All needed documents arrangement (registration for foreigners, permit to the border zone);
  • Helicopter flight to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp and back with all personal equipment (weight is unlimited);
  • Accommodation in hotel with breakfast in Bishkek (2 nights);
  • Accommodation in “Karkara” Base Camp with full board;
  • Using of fixed lines (ropes) on ascent route;
  • Services in “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000 m):
    • Accommodation in double and triple tents;
    • Ecological fee for living in the camp;
    • Meals - full board (3 times a day hot varied meals);
    • Shower, sauna, toilet, storage room;
    • Medical service;
    • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz;
    • Consultations with professional mountain guides;
    • Consultations by doctor; 
    • Registration in the rescue squad;
    • Use of long-distance radio communication;
    • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie) during ascent (only for groups over 3 persons).

The cost does not include:

  • Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
  • Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
  • Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

Extra services:

  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
  • International call by satellite telephone - 4 USD per minute;
  • Internet - 5 USD/hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.
  • Guide services:
    • 1 person - 1800 USD;
    • 2 person - 1000 USD per person;
    • 3 person - 800 USD per person;

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2022:

Small package 1400 USD/person

The cost of the tour includes:

  • All needed documents arrangement (registration for foreigners, permit to the border zone);
  • Helicopter flight to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp and back with a load of up to 30 kg (charge for overweight is 5 USD per kg);
  • Using of fixed lines (ropes) on ascent route;
  • Services in “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000 m):
    • Ecological fee for living in the camp;
    • Medical service;
    • Consultations with professional mountain guides;
    • Consultations by doctor; 
    • Registration in the rescue squad;
    • Use of long-distance radio communication;
    • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie) during ascent (only for groups over 3 persons).

Additional possibilities for the Small package in Base Сamp “Southern Inylchek”:

  • Cost of the accommodation and 3 meals a day in Base camp South Inylchek - 55 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
  • Accommodation in Base camp South Inylchek - 10 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
  • Breakfast - 15 USD / 1 person;
  • Lunch - 20 USD / 1 person;
  • Dinner - 20 USD / 1 person;
  • Sauna - 10 USD / 1 person;

Extra services:

  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
  • International calls - 4 USD per minute;
  • International calls - 5 USD per hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.
  • Transfer Bishkek - Karkara - 55 USD/per person - upon the availability of places in the car (the date is on the eve of the flight date at 10:00 a.m);
  • Cost of the accommodation and 3 meals a day in Base camp Karkara - 45 USD / 1 night/ 1 person.
  • Guide services:
    • 1 person - 1800 USD;
    • 2 person - 1000 USD per person;
    • 3 person - 800 USD per person

 

Khan-Tengri Peak Ascent from the Northern Inylchek Glacier:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to a hotel and check-in.
Day 2 Transfer Bishkek - Karkara (460 km). Accommodation "Karkara" Base Camp.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000m).
Day 4 Acclimatization hikes and preparing for the ascent.
Day 5 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 7 Radial hiking to the ridge of Chapaev peak.
Day 8 Descent to “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000m).
Day 9 Rest day.
Day 10 Rest day/ preparing for the ascent.
Day 11 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 12 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 13 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 14 Ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m). Descent to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 15 Descent to “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000m).
Day 16 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 17 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 18 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 19 Helicopter flight to "Karkara" Base Camp. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 20 Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.
  • Group package
    - 3150 USD/pax
  • Full package
    - 2400 USD/pax
  • Small package
    - 1400 USD/pax

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2022:

Group package 3150 USD/person

The cost of the tour includes:

  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport or railway station of Bishkek;
  • All transfers according to the program;
  • Lunch en route Bishkek - Karkara - Bishkek;
  • All needed documents arrangement (registration for foreigners, permit to the border zone);
  • Service of professional high altitude mountain guide:
    • group of 1-3 persons - 1 guide;
    • group of 4-6 persons - 1 guide + 1 guide's assistant;
    • group of 7-10 persons - 1 guide + 2 guide's assistants.
  • Installed high altitude tents (one tent for 3 persons);
  • Group equipment: ropes (if necessary), gas cartridges and gas burners, a set of utensils for cooking;
  • High altitude products;
  • Helicopter flight to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp and back with all personal equipment (weight is unlimited);
  • Accommodation in hotel with breakfast in Bishkek (3 nights);
  • Accommodation in “Karkara” Base Camp with full board;
  • Services in “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000 m):
    • Accommodation in double and triple tents;
    • Ecological fee for living in the camp;
    • Meals - full board (3 times a day hot varied meals);
    • Shower, sauna, toilet, storage room;
    • Medical service;
    • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz;
    • Consultations with professional mountain guides;
    • Consultations by doctor;
    • Registration in the rescue squad;
    • Use of long-distance radio communication;
    • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie) during ascent (only for groups over 3 persons).

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2022:

Full package 2400 USD/person

The cost of the tour includes:

  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport or railway station of Bishkek;
  • All transfers according to the program;
  • Lunch en route Bishkek - Karkara - Bishkek;
  • All needed documents arrangement (registration for foreigners, permit to the border zone);
  • Helicopter flight to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp and back with all personal equipment (weight is unlimited);
  • Accommodation in hotel with breakfast in Bishkek (2 nights);
  • Accommodation in “Karkara” Base Camp with full board;
  • Using of fixed lines (ropes) on ascent route;
  • Services in “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000 m):
    • Accommodation in double and triple tents;
    • Ecological fee for living in the camp;
    • Meals - full board (3 times a day hot varied meals);
    • Shower, sauna, toilet, storage room;
    • Medical service;
    • Electricity 220 V; 50 Hz;
    • Consultations with professional mountain guides;
    • Consultations by doctor; 
    • Registration in the rescue squad;
    • Use of long-distance radio communication;
    • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie) during ascent (only for groups over 3 persons).

The cost does not include:

  • Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
  • Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
  • Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

Extra services:

  • Descent to South Inylchek (for those who ascent to Khan Tengri from the North side) - 200 USD
  • Fly to Karkara for the rest (few days) and fly back to Base Camp - 500 USD
  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
  • International call by satellite telephone - 4 USD per minute;
  • Internet - 5 USD/hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.
  • Guide services:
    • 1 person - 1800 USD;
    • 2 person - 1000 USD per person;
    • 3 person - 800 USD per person.

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2022:

Small package 1400 USD/person

The cost of the tour includes:

  • All needed documents arrangement (registration for foreigners, permit to the border zone);
  • Helicopter flight to “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp and back with a load of up to 30 kg (charge for overweight is 5 USD per kg);
  • Using of fixed lines (ropes) on ascent route;
  • Services in “Southern Inylchek” Base Camp/ “Northern Inylchek” Base Camp (4000 m):
    • Ecological fee for living in the camp;
    • Medical service;
    • Consultations with professional mountain guides;
    • Consultations by doctor; 
    • Registration in the rescue squad;
    • Use of long-distance radio communication;
    • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie) during ascent (only for groups over 3 persons).

Additional possibilities for the Small package in Base Сamp “Nothern Inylchek”:

  • Cost of the accommodation and 3 meals a day in Base camp South Inylchek - 55 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
  • Accommodation in Base camp South Inylchek - 10 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
  • Breakfast - 15 USD / 1 person;
  • Lunch - 20 USD / 1 person;
  • Dinner - 20 USD / 1 person;
  • Sauna - 10 USD / 1 person;

Extra services:

  • Descent to South Inylchek (for those who ascent to Khan Tengri from the North side) - 200 USD
  • Fly to Karkara for the rest (few days) and fly back to Base Camp - 500 USD
  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
  • International calls - 4 USD per minute;
  • International calls - 5 USD per hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.
  • Transfer Bishkek - Karkara - 55 USD/per person - upon the availability of places in the car (the date is on the eve of the flight date at 10:00 a.m);
  • Cost of the accommodation and 3 meals a day in Base camp Karkara - 45 USD / 1 night/ 1 person.
  • Guide services:
    • 1 person - 1800 USD;
    • 2 person - 1000 USD per person;
    • 3 person - 800 USD per person;


  • FAQ
  • Visas, Permits.
    Route Map
  • Tactic, map
    equipment, medical chest

 

Frequently asked questions

  1. How do I book services of high-altitude guide?
  2. Should mountaineers have the insurance?
  3. What are minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Khan-Tengry Peak?
  4. What about meals?
  5. What kind of climbing equipment do I need?
  6. What currency is in circulation in the Base Camp?
  7. How do I pay for my tour?
  8. Are there fixed ropes along the route of ascent?
  9. Which documents should I have and what is the procedure of registration in OVIR (local registration department)?
  10. Where can I buy the permit for ascent?
  1. How do I book services of high-altitude guide?
    You may order for the services of high-altitude guide beforehand through e-mail while in the correspondence with our agency.
    The cost of the guide’s services:
    • 1 person - 1800 USD
    • 2 persons - 1000 USD per person
    • 3 persons - 800 USD per person
  2. Should mountaineers have the insurance?
    The insurance is compulsory and always advisable in case of unforeseen circumstances.
    Common sense has to provide it in order to feel safety on a mountain, as the services of rescue team costs a lot.
    We suggest total sum insured for your extreme mountaineering policy to be 30,000 USD per person per accident.
    The most expensive part is usage of a helicopter.
    We don’t arrange policy. It’s necessary to get it in your country before the expedition.
    Requirements for insurance policy:
    • The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30000;
    • In the field "occupation" (or "sports practice") "Mountaineering" must be notified;
    • As Country of stay - Kyrgyzstan;
    • The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan;
    • The insurance policy must cover at least "first aid" and "transport of affected by helicopter if necessary" (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy).
    Note:
    Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.
    Please remember: our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.
  3. What are minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Khan-Tengry Peak?
    Khan-Tengry Peak is a difficult summit to climb, as technically so as physically. You shouldn’t try to make an ascent having experience of some easy routes and without certain climbing experience.Traditionally before the meeting with this Mountain, it’s better to make ascents to the peaks: Lenin Peak, Muztag-Ata Peak. They are not so difficult technically, but allow understanding how altitude influences your organism.Essential is your sound physical sporting conditions and good acclimatization (especially if you don’t have any previous high-altitude ascent experience). You can begin to train and acclimatize even before the arrival to the Base Camp, as it’s located at the height of 4000m. If you have no such opportunity, it’s necessary to do it on the glacier of Southern Inylchek. There are a lot of possibilities for such acclimatization routes. (Look information about routes here and at our web-site)There is one more important factor - person who’s going with you. Though everybody’s “dying” alone there should be the person who can share the difficulty of the expedition with you - share tent, meal, rope, gas. To have such experienced man in the team is very important: he won’t panic in any extreme situation and help you with advice or action at right moment. We suggest that you book services of our mountain guide.
    Do not forget to see our doctor before starting the climb!
  4. What about meals?
    You will be provided with 3-time-a-day full meals at the Base Camp. But at Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4 you will have to organise your own meals. So, highly suggested that you bring your high-altitude foodstuff with you (from country of your original departure), as you won’t be able to find it in Bishkek.
  5. What kind of climbing equipment do I need?
    Extreme and unpredictable weather, altitude and expedition itself demands reliable equipment. In order to succeed in ascending to Khan-Tengry Peak we would suggest that your high-quality reliable climbing equipment would include as follows: a pair of high-altitude mountain plastic double boots, a pair of tracking boots/shoes. Shoes should be free and comfortable upon walking. Warm breeches for the height higher than 4500m, warm mittens, gloves, a warm hat, a cap, a rainproof costume, woollen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket, a high-altitude tent, a rug/sleeping pad, a down sleeping-bag (capable of withstanding a frost down to -10C - - 20C), a rucksack (60-100 litre big), , high-altitude sun glasses (make sure you have a spare one!), a tube of UV skin protection cream (factor 25 and higher), a lipstick, a face-protecting mask, a personal high-altitude first-aid kit, a pair of telescopic ski poles, an ice-axe, crampons, a helmet, a basic rope (8-11 mm diameter, 20-30m long), safety system (a “cradle”), “jumar”, carabineers (3-5 pieces), ice- screws (2 pieces), a safety halyard (diameter 4-5 mm, 2-3 m long), a head- or flash-light, a down jacket and pants.
  6. What currency is in circulation in the Base Camp?
    In Bishkek (starting point) you can change your hard currency into local currency - Som. At the Base Camp traditionally US dollars, Euro, Kyrgyz Som are used.
  7. How do I pay for my tour?
    Order of payment:
    - Member’s request for participation in Khan-Tengry / (Pobeda) peak expedition is registered after making 30% pre-payment from the cost of chosen package, it should be done not later then 1 month before the date of season starts (July 5th). Member should send to us scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.
    - Not later then 2 weeks before the date of arrival member should confirm (or cancel) his participation in the program, and he should make payment of the rest sum from chosen package, having sent to us scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.
  8. Are there fixed ropes along the route of ascent?
    Yes, there are fixed ropes along the route. The route of ascent along Western ridge has fixed ropes at all dangerous and difficult parts. Our high-altitude guides do it at the beginning of the season. Fixed ropes will make you ascent easier up to the summit and they will be very useful for fast descent to the Base Camp. Be careful while choosing the rope: there are often old and shabby ropes along the route!
  9. Which documents should I have and what is the procedure of registration in OVIR (local registration department)?
    It’s necessary to have passport upon arrival to the country.
    For free staying on the territory of Kyrgyzstan and in the Base Camp you must get registration in OVIR (local registration department) during 5 days. Also it’s necessary to have a border permit, because state border with China goes quite close.
    The permit is arranged for a long time, that’s why it’s better to send your passport details a month before arrival. We need the following:
    - Full name
    - № of passport
    - The place and date of issue
    - The date of birth
    - The place of birth
    - Home stay
  10. Where can I buy the permit for ascent?
    You don’t need the permit for ascent.

 

Visas, Permits

For issuing a frontier zone permit and for registration in the Ministry of Home Affairs’ authorities it is necessary (not later than 1 month before your arrival) to send us the following passport data: passport copy, or: your full name, date of birth, nationality, passport number, and planned period of your staying in Kyrgyzstan.

Under current rules visa-free stay within unlimited period on the territory of Kyrgyzstan is granted for the nationals of the following countries:

  • Armenia
  • Azerbaijan
  • Belorussia
  • Cuba
  • Georgia
  • Kazakhstan
  • Laos
  • Moldova
  • North Korea
  • Russia
  • Tajikistan
  • Vietnam

 

List of states granted visa-free stay up to 90 days: Mongolia, Ukraine

List of states granted visa-free stay up to 60 days

  • Australia
  • Austria
  • Andorra
  • Argentina
  • Brazil
  • Bahrain
  • Belgium
  • Bosnia and Herzegovina
  • Britain
  • Brunei Darussalam
  • Canada
  • Chile
  • Croatia
  • Czech Republic
  • Denmark
  • Estonia
  • Finland
  • France
  • Germany
  • Greece
  • Hungary
  • Iceland
  • Ireland
  • Italy
  • Japan
  • Kuwait
  • Latvia
  • Liechtenstein
  • Lithuania
  • Luxembourg
  • Malta
  • Monaco
  • Netherlands
  • New Zealand
  • Norway
  • Poland
  • Portugal
  • Qatar
  • Republic of Korea
  • Saudi Arabia
  • Singapore
  • Slovakia
  • Slovenia
  • Spain
  • Sweden
  • Switzerland
  • Turkey
  • United Arab Emirates
  • United States of America
  • Uzbekistan
  • Vatican

Visa-free access to Kyrgyzstan up to 30 days: Malaysia

** Note: If you plan to ascend Pobeda Peak after you have ascended Khan-Tengry, you do not have to pay for doing so additionally.

Route Map

Route Map

 

Tactic of ascention to Khan-Tengry Peak

Scheme of expedition to Khan-Tengry Peak

Base Camp (4000 m) to Camp 1 (4200 m).
The route begins from the BC located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka glacier, approximately at 4,000m above see level. Thence the route lies along the central part of the South Inilchek Glacier towards Camp 1 (4,200m). Camp 1 is usually set at junction between South Inilchek Glacier and Semenovskiy Glacier on the right-hand side moraine at the foot of the Peak Chapaev.

Camp 1 (4200 m) to Camp 2 (5300 m).
You uphill along the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping at the ice-fall. Upper reaches of the glacier are objectively dangerous due to possible icefalls rushing down from the Peak Chapaev and Peak Khan-Tengry. We highly recommend your very early start in the morning and going in non-stop regime for as long as possible. The icefall is passed either frontally through or bypassed on the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. Second option is faster but more risky than the first one due to high possibility of avalanches and rock-falls from the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. It is advisable that you move on the belay due to abundance of crevasses on the body of the glacier. Having passed the icefall, you carry on to the upper cirque of the Semenovskiy Glacier housing Camp 2 (5,300m). Traditionally, this camp is used during first acclimatization foray. But then at the second foray they usually uphill from Camp 1 straight to Camp 3.

Camp 2 (5300 m) to Camp 3 (5900 m).
From Camp 2 uphill on rather gentle slope to the upper reaches of the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping towards the saddle lying between Peak Khan-Tengry and the arm of the Peak Chapaev. You set your Camp 3 (5,900m) at the left-hand-side part of the saddle. You may either put up tents or dig out burrows (caves) in the snow. Should you have luck, you may find and use burrows left by somebody else climbing before you.

Camp 3 (5,900m) to Camp 4 (6400 m).
From Camp 3 the route goes on through the saddle and along the western ridge of Peak Khan-Tengry. Passage on the ridge, as a rule, is secured by ropes fixed along the whole extent of the ridge. Beware of old worn-out fixed ropes often found on the way – these are ropes left by previous expeditions and they may be dangerous. Double your attentiveness! Up to 6,900m the route goes on the rocks, then on the snow cupola that turn into the narrow snow “knife” (crest) leading to the apex. Spots good for camping are available at heights 6200 m, 6400 m and 6700 m. If needed, Camp 4 can set up there; most convenient spot is at 6400 m.

Uphill to the top of the Peak Khan-Tengry (6995 m). Downhill to Camp 3 (5900 m).
Till altitude 6,700m you uphill on the right-hand side of the western ridge. From altitude 6,700m carry on traversing to the right towards couloir. Take up the rocky wall 10m-high at the mouth of the couloir. Thence along the couloir, then keeping on the right again. Climb up the rocks to get to the small snow crest turning into the small rocky wall 20m-high giving way to the apex. The summit is marked by rather unimpressive metal tripod.
You are on the top, Hurray! The entire Tian- Shan lies underneath your feet! In case of good weather, take 20 to 30 minutes’ break for photographing and enjoying the moment of victory, then – begin downhill, as your way down is no less hard and risky than your way up is.

to the top »»

Map of ascention to Khan-Tengry Peak from the North

Scheme of expedition to Khan-Tengry Peak from the North

Personal and group equipment for
expedition to Khan-Tengry Peak (6995m)

  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
1 Track shoes pair 1 -
2 Shoes for the high attitude roads pair 1 -
3 Assault jacket GOR-TEX piece 1 -
4 Assault trousers GOR-TEX piece 1 -
5 Downy jacket piece 1 -
6 Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX piece 1 -
7 Downy sleeping bag piece 1 -
8 Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR piece 1 -
9 Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK piece 2 -
10 Mittens for the high attitude ascents pair 1 -
11 Gloves pair 2 -
12 Peaked worm cap or hat piece 1 -
13 Flasks - - -
14 Socks-POLAR pair 3 -
15 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre piece 1 -
16 Mat "KARIMAT" piece 1 -
17 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 piece 1 -
18 Clumps-right and left piece 1 -
19 Belay arrangement “figure of 8 knot” piece 1 -
20 Necking-belay system complete set 1 -
21 Carabin with muff piece 2-3 -
22 Snow shovel piece 1 -
23 Hygienic lip-stick piece 1 -
24 Solar control cream piece 1 -
25 Transport trunk piece 1 -
26 Pen knife piece 1 -
27 Crampons pair 1 -
28 Ice-axe piece 1 -
29 Snow goggles piece 1 -
30 Telescopic stick pair 1 -
31 Head torch piece 1 -
32 Rope (nylon) 25-30 m piece 1 -
33 Rocky hook, titanic complete set -
34 Mortgage components «Clamps» complete set 3 -
35 Mortgage components «Fredni» complete set 3 -
36 Ice hooks «bore for drilling ice», titanic piece 6 -
37 Snow anchors piece 2 -
38 Rocky hammer piece 1 -
39 Safety loops 5 i. piece 3 -
40 Protective helmet piece 1 -
41 Tent 2-3 m piece 1 for 2-3 person
42 Gas stove piece 1 for 2-3 person
43 Gas cylinder (230 ml.) piece 1 for 2-3 person
44 Dishes complete set 1 for 2-3 person
45 Radio station metric waves complete set 1 for 2-3 person
46 First-aid kit complete set 1 for 2-3 person

to the top »»

Medical chest of the climbers

The list of medicaments that are used during the climbing to the Khan-Tengry Peak 6995 m Quantity
Dekamevit (vitamins) pills
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) pills
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning on height) pills
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) pills
Nifidepine (edema of the lungs) pills
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) pills
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) inj. By 1 ml.
Dexamethasone pills
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) pills
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) pills
Trental (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml.
Riboksin (to improve one’s heart/liver function) pills
Ksantinola nicotine (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills,inj by 2ml.
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) pills
Furosemide (diuretic) pills
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) pills
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) inj. By 2 ml.
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) pills
Verospirone (diuretic) pills

to the top »»

Photo of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak»:

see all photos of Khan-Tengry Peak »»

to the top »»

Heritage group tours:

Adventure group tours:

Other interesting tours:

Usefull links:


     	

TOUR ORDER

×

Tour name *

Full name *

Citizenship

Phone number * 

Telegram  

E-Mail * 

Number of
participants: 

Accommodation on the route:



Preferable form of communication:

Comments, wishes on the program:

Inserting your personal data in this form you give your consent to the processing of your personal data



Send to a friend

×




Search on the site

Whats new on the site