Pobeda Peak

 

Country of destination: Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan Mountains View the route map »»
Tour itinerary, cities: Bishkek - Karkara - Base camp
Tour duration: 29 days / 28 nights
Best time to travel: July - August

Pobeda Peak

Getting there. Starting point of expedition usually is Bishkek - the capital of Kyrgyzstan. International airport "Manas" (30km off Bishkek) accepts flights arriving from number of European and Asian countries (Hanover, London, Moscow, Sankt-Petersburg, Istanbul, Meshed, Karachi, Delhi, Urumchi and Sharjah).

It takes one full day of driving to reach “Karkara Base camp”. One more day is spent on a helicopter hop to Inylchek glacier to Base Camp (30 min).

Tourism potential of the region is great: except world-known peaks Khan-Tengri and Pobeda there are more than 30 summits of 6,000 meters high and plenty of summits the height of which is ranging from 4,000 m to 6,000 meters in the uppers of glaciers South Inilchek and North Inilchek. The routes of ascent on the above mentioned peaks vary from simple to most complicated ones. Area surrounding the peaks Khan-Tengri and Pobeda is rich in unclimbed summits. Foot trips to this area are limited due to difficulty in crossing of passes between valleys. Most popular route before ascents to Khan-Tengry and Pobeda summits is trek starting from At-Jailoo base up along Inylchek glacier to the Base camp “Southern Inylchek”. From the mountaineer"s base camp we enjoy the beauty of marble pyramidal peak Khan-Tengry and its neighbour - world"s northernmost peak above seven thousand meter peaks - Pobeda Peak.

Preliminary dates helicopter flights 2019
(Schedule can be changed!):
Karkara BC
- South Inylchek BC
July 5, 7, 11, 12, 14, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 28
August 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 14, 16, 18, 19, 22, 23, 25, 30
Program of the tour:
Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer and accommodation in the hotel.
Day 2 Transfer Bishkek - Karkara BC (460 km). Accommodation in Karkara BC.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to South Inylchek BC (4000 m asl).
Day 4 Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.
Day 5 Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.
Day 6 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 м).
Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5100 м).
Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 м).
Day 9 Descent to BC.
Day 10 BC.
Day 11 BC.
Day 12 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 м).
Day 13 Ascent to Camp 2 (5100 м).
Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 м).
Day 15 Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 м).
Day 16 Descent to BC.
Day 17 BC.
Day 18 BC.
Day 19 BC.
Day 20 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 м).
Day 21 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 м).
Day 22 Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 м).
Day 23 Ascent to Camp 5 (6918 м).
Day 24 Ascent to the summit Pobeda peak 7439 and descend to Camp 5 (6918 м).
Day 25 Descend to Camp 1 (4200 м).
Day 26 Descend to BC.
Day 27 Helicopter flight to Karkara BC. Transfer and accommodation in Bishkek.
Day 28 Free day in Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 29 Transfer to the airport and departure from Bishkek.
  • Full package
    - 2100 USD
  • Small package
    - 1230 USD
  • Visas / permits.
    Insurance. Route Map

  • Important information

 

The cost of the tour «Pobeda Peak» 2019:

Full package 2100 USD

The cost of full package includes:

  • Meeting / transfer from / to airport of Bishkek and Almaty;
  • Dinners during Bishkek - Karkara transfer;
  • All transfers according to the program;
  • Arranging necessary documents (registration in immigration policy and border permit)*;
  • Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Pobeda Peak” and back with baggage (weight of baggage transportation is unlimited);
  • Services in exchanging of air and railway tickets;
  • Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more than 4 nights only in total!);
  • Services in Base Camp “Pobeda Peak” (4,000m):
    • accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring and mattresses);
    • meals on full board basis (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
    • toilets, luggage office at Base Camp;
    • sauna (steam room) at Base Camp;
    • medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
    • electric supply (220 V; 50 HZ);
    • high-altitude guide consultancy services;
    • doctor consultancy services;
    • registration with rescue team;
    • rent of radio stations during the ascent (only for the group with more than 3 persons);
    • usage of remote wireless;
    • ecological tax for staying on the territory of the camp.

The cost does not include:

  • Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
  • Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
  • Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

Extra services:

  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
  • International calls - 4 USD per minute;
  • Internet - 5 USD per hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.
  • Oxygen cylinders - 650 USD;
  • Deposit for oxygen cylinders - 50 USD (refund, if you bring back an empty balloon);
  • Rent of mask and oxygen pressure reducer - 300 USD.

 

The cost of the tour «Pobeda Peak» 2019:

Small package 1230 USD

The cost of small package includes:

  • Helicopter flight to Base Camp and back with personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 4 USD per each extra kilo);
  • Consultation of local guide;
  • Consultation of doctor;
  • Registration with local Rescue Party;
  • Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • Frontier zone permit;
  • Usage of fixed handhold rope;
  • Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan.

Additional possibilities for the Small package in Base camp “Southern Inylchek”:

  • Cost of the accommodation and 3 meals a day in Base camp - 55 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
  • Accommodation - 10 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
  • Breakfast - 15 USD / 1 person;
  • Lunch - 20 USD / 1 person;
  • Dinner - 20 USD / 1 person;
  • Sauna - 10 USD / 1 person;

Extra services:

  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
  • International calls - 4 USD per minute;
  • International calls - 5 USD per hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person;
  • Oxygen cylinders - 650 USD;
  • Deposit for oxygen cylinders - 50 USD (refund, if you bring back an empty balloon);
  • Rent of mask and oxygen pressure reducer - 300 USD.

 

Visas, Permits

For issuing a frontier zone permit and for registration in the Ministry of Home Affairs’ authorities it is necessary (not later than 1 month before your arrival) to send us the following passport data: passport copy, or: your full name, date of birth, nationality, passport number, and planned period of your staying in Kyrgyzstan.

Under current rules visa-free stay within unlimited period on the territory of Kyrgyzstan is granted for the nationals of the following countries:

  • Armenia
  • Azerbaijan
  • Belorussia
  • Cuba
  • Georgia
  • Kazakhstan
  • Laos
  • Moldova
  • North Korea
  • Russia
  • Tajikistan
  • Vietnam

 

List of states granted visa-free stay up to 90 days: Mongolia, Ukraine

List of states granted visa-free stay up to 60 days

  • Australia
  • Austria
  • Andorra
  • Argentina
  • Brazil
  • Bahrain
  • Belgium
  • Bosnia and Herzegovina
  • Britain
  • Brunei Darussalam
  • Canada
  • Chile
  • Croatia
  • Czech Republic
  • Denmark
  • Estonia
  • Finland
  • France
  • Germany
  • Greece
  • Hungary
  • Iceland
  • Ireland
  • Italy
  • Japan
  • Kuwait
  • Latvia
  • Liechtenstein
  • Lithuania
  • Luxembourg
  • Malta
  • Monaco
  • Netherlands
  • New Zealand
  • Norway
  • Poland
  • Portugal
  • Qatar
  • Republic of Korea
  • Saudi Arabia
  • Singapore
  • Slovakia
  • Slovenia
  • Spain
  • Sweden
  • Switzerland
  • Turkey
  • United Arab Emirates
  • United States of America
  • Uzbekistan
  • Vatican

Visa-free access to Kyrgyzstan up to 30 days: Malaysia

** Note: The cost of the program includes climbing the both peaks: the Pobeda Peak and the Khan-Tengry Peak.

Insurance policies.
The insurance is compulsory and always advisable in case of unforeseen circumstances.
Common sense has to provide it in order to feel safety on a mountain, as the services of rescue team costs a lot.
We suggest total sum insured for your extreme mountaineering policy to be 30,000 USD per person per accident.
The most expensive part is usage of a helicopter.
We don’t arrange policy. It’s necessary to get it in your country before the expedition.

Requirements for insurance policy:

1) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30000
2) In the field "occupation" (or "sports practice") "Mountaineering" must be notified
3) As Country of stay - Kyrgyzstan
4) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan
5) The insurance policy must cover at least "first aid" and "transport of affected by helicopter if necessary" (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

Note:
Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.

Please remember: our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.

Route Map

Route Map

 

Tactic of ascention to Pobeda Peak

Scheme of expedition to Pobeda Peak

The first mountaineers conquered in 1938 formerly unknown peak. There are some difficult routes to the top as follows: - on the centre of the northern slope; - on the eastern crest from Chon-Teren pass, and - along (most safe way) over the west Pobeda summit (also called Vazja Pshavela) from the Diky pass.
Start from Zvesdochka glacier from icefall at 4,500 m, altitude difference about 3 km. Icefall and the northern ridge of West Pobeda (6,918 m), then long traverse of the western crest (4 km) at the altitude of 7,000 m.
During the day you should reach the summit and return to the West Pobeda snowcave camp.

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Personal and group equipment for expedition to the Pobeda Peak (7439 m)

  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
1 Track shoes pair 1 -
2 Shoes for the high attitude roads pair 1 -
3 Assault jacket GOR-TEX piece 1 -
4 Assault trousers GOR-TEX piece 1 -
5 Downy jacket piece 1 -
6 Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX piece 1 -
7 Downy sleeping bag piece 1 -
8 Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR piece 1 -
9 Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK piece 2 -
10 Mittens for the high attitude ascents pair 1 -
11 Gloves pair 2 -
12 Peaked worm cap or hat piece 1 -
13 Flasks - - -
14 Socks-POLAR pair 3 -
15 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre piece 1 -
16 Mat "KARIMAT" piece 1 -
17 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 piece 1 -
18 Clumps-right and left piece 1 -
19 Belay arrangement “figure of 8 knot” piece 1 -
20 Necking-belay system complete set 1 -
21 Carabin with muff piece 2-3 -
22 Snow shovel piece 1 -
23 Hygienic lip-stick piece 1 -
24 Solar control cream piece 1 -
25 Transport trunk piece 1 -
26 Pen knife piece 1 -
27 Crampons pair 1 -
28 Ice-axe piece 1 -
29 Snow goggles piece 1 -
30 Telescopic stick pair 1 -
31 Head torch piece 1 -
32 Rope (nylon) 25-30 m piece 1 -
33 Rocky hook, titanic complete set -
34 Mortgage components «Clamps» complete set 3 -
35 Mortgage components «Fredni» complete set 3 -
36 Ice hooks «bore for drilling ice», titanic piece 6 -
37 Snow anchors piece 2 -
38 Rocky hammer piece 1 -
39 Safety loops 5 i. piece 3 -
40 Protective helmet piece 1 -
41 Tent 2-3 m piece 1 for 2-3 person
42 Gas stove piece 1 for 2-3 person
43 Gas cylinder (230 ml.) piece 1 for 2-3 person
44 Dishes complete set 1 for 2-3 person
45 Radio station metric waves complete set 1 for 2-3 person
46 First-aid kit complete set 1 for 2-3 person

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Medical chest of the climbers

The list of medicaments that are used during the climbing to the Pobeda Peak 7439 m Quantity
Dekamevit (vitamins) pills
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) pills
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning on height) pills
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) pills
Nifidepine (edema of the lungs) pills
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) pills
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) inj. By 1 ml.
Dexamethasone pills
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) pills
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) pills
Trental (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml.
Riboksin (to improve one’s heart/liver function) pills
Ksantinola nicotine (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills,inj by 2ml.
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) pills
Furosemide (diuretic) pills
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) pills
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) inj. By 2 ml.
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) pills
Verospirone (diuretic) pills

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