Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134m), 2027–2028

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Transfer to the airport.

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Transfer to the airport.

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Transfer to the airport.

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Travel time: 5 hours, distance: 280 kilometers.
Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.
Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs.
Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Transfer to the airport. Domestic flight to Bishkek. Meeting at the airport of Bishkek. Transfer and check-in at the hotel after
14:00. Leisure time.
Meals: breakfast.
Overnight at the hotel

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent up further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Transfer to the airport.

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Transfer to the airport.

Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 m), where you can see how the real wild onion grows and where marmots live. If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.
Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak.
Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Transfer to the airport. End of the tour program. Departure.

That’s it. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”

Arrival in Bishkek. Airflight Bishkek - Osh. Meeting at the airport in Osh.

The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.

Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.

Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 m), where you can see how the real wild onion grows and where marmots live. If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.
Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak.
Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau.

Ascent further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Transfer to Osh across the famous Alay valley and the high-mountain ranges of Taldyk (3615 meters) and Chyirchik (2408 meters). We recommend stopping at the Taldyk pass and looking into the depth of wonderful mountains and taking a few memorable pictures to keep the memories of these majestic places.

Arrival in Osh, accommodation at a hotel. You will also have some free time for visiting the Osh market and buying local souvenirs

Overnight stay at a hotel in Osh.

Transfer to the airport. Domestic flight to Bishkek. Meeting at the airport of Bishkek. Transfer and check-in at the hotel after 14:00. Leisure time.
Meals: breakfast.
Overnight at the hotel.

Early arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at the airport, transfer to Osh.

On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.

The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.

We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.

The expedition to the Lenin Peak begins with the city of Osh – the biggest city in Southern Kyrgyzstan. Transfer from Osh to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp takes about 5 hours, if driving, and lies across the grand Pamir Range, across the two picturesque passes – the Chyiyrchik (2408 meters) located in the region of the Gulcha village and Taldyk (3615 meters) which is just before the Sary-Tash village, as well as the scenic Alay valley.

Arrival at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters), accommodation, rest. Our “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp is located in the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. On its territory, you can find anything you might need for a comfortable stay: national yurts that you can dine and spend free time in, sauna, showers, toilets, Wi-Fi, medical station, volleyball court, equipment rental shop, lockers, etc. You can select the type of accommodation at the base camp in advance – whether you would like to stay in heated tents or in real Kyrgyz yurts with a personal bathroom.

Dining here is of a very high level, comparable with some of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Professional cooks offer Asian and European dishes, some of which are vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining yurts. A boiling pot with hot water is at your disposal all day long so that you can make yourself some tea or coffee at any time. We also offer complimentary berry jams and sweets. We also have a traditional clay oven (tandyr) at the base camp – this is what we use to bake fresh bread and Samsa.

After you get accommodated at the base camp, we will take an acclimation walk to the Leek Meadow (3800 meters) where you can see how the real wild leek grows and where marmots live.
If you wish, you can also walk up to the observation deck which will provide you with a wonderful view of the Achik-Tash valley (translation: “Open rock”).
Walk back to the base camp.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

After breakfast we will take an acclimation hike to the observation deck on the Petrovskiy peak. Petrovskiy peak (4700 meters) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the base camp. It is perfect for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4100 meters, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley which features numerous lakes, huge Zaalay range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak.
Return to the base camp, rest. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s acclimation journey to upper base camps.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Activities in the surroundings of Camp 1 (4400 meters): you will learn the rules of moving on the covered and uncovered glaciers, how to move in bundles, study the process of overcoming glacier cracks, climbing up and down a fixed rope, and will gain experience in self-rescue procedures. Equipment checks for tomorrow’s ascent to Camp 2 (5600 meters).

Experienced mountain climbers who do not require additional training can take a ascent to the Yukhin peak and return to Camp 1 the same day.

Yukhin peak (5130 meters) is a beautiful 5000-meter mountain that is located within a walking distance from Camp 1 (4400 meters). There are no steep ice or rocky parts on this route, so additional equipment will not be required for this ascent. More often than not, you will be walking on snow or in light drizzle, the slope on some parts of the route is at about 20-30?. Climb-down will lie along the same route; return to Camp 1.

Overnight stay at Camp 1 (4400 meters).

The best time of departure is before 9:00 in the morning. Starting from Camp 2 we will ascent the slope of 30-40? to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks. It can be windy at the ridge. After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gentle ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40? and very snowy surface. Camp 3 (6100 meters) is located somewhere at the top of this peak.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the take-off between the altitude of 5850 meters and Camp 3. At its upper part (between 6000 meters and 6100 meters) there are a lot of concealed cracks, so you should be very careful! We recommend that the route is walked with crampons on and in bundles

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

You can leave some of your high-mountain equipment in the lockers at Camp 1 (4400 meters). Descent to the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters) along the familiar road across the Puteshestvennikov pass in order to ensure full recovery. Rest.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Additional rest day for complete and wholesome recovery. In case of bad weather, this day can be used as a reserve day. Free time. Preparation for the ascent to the Lenin peak.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).

Early departure to Camp 2 (5600 meters), ascent along the Northern slope of the Lenin peak. The rest and acclimation you got earlier at the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will make the second ascent to Camp 2 significantly easier.

Overnight stay at Camp 2 (5600 meters).

It is required to depart from Camp 3 (6100 meters) very early – around 3:00–4:00 in the morning.

From Camp 3 (6100 meters) to the travers of the peak in the South-Eastern direction and descent to the saddle. There are a couple of dangerous, mostly concealed, cracks in the saddle, so this part of the route is recommended to be walked in bundles. We will walk up from the saddle along the rocky road until you reach the ridge plateau. Here is where some teams break temporary camp (Base Camp 4 (6400 meters)) sometimes, however, most climbers do without it. The decision about whether setting up an additional camp is needed needs to be made by each team individually.

Ascent up further along the wide ridge to the narrow ice takeoff (called “Knife”). It is possible to face heavy winds in this part of the route. The slope of the “Knife” is roughly 35-50?, its length is 60-70 meters. It is strongly recommended to walk this part of the route in crampons and in bundles as there is a high risk of being pushed to the Northern wall to slopes. The route continues between the rocks along the ridge and then goes up along a rock-snow takeoff (the length of which is 20-30 meters) until you reach a snowy plateau of Skydivers (6900-7000 meters).

The route gets more complicated because of the snow. It is recommended to walk the plateau in good visibility conditions, while constantly checking the directions on GPS, since when weather conditions are poor, there is a high risk of losing direction.

Ascent further along the lengthy peak road (in snow) with a walk-through to the Lenin peak (7134 meters) where you will see the longest tour lied down with rocks and a small bust of Vladimir Lenin.

Descent from the top to Camp 3 (6100 meters) the same way as you climbed up.

Recommended time to return and start climbing down is 14:00, regardless of whether you have reached the peak or not.

Overnight stay at Camp 3 (6100 meters).

A slow and steady way back to the “Edelweiss meadow” base camp will let you enjoy the views and scenery of the colorful rocks and mountains, sophisticated rock towers, and the “Land’s End” canyon in the valley of the Achik-Tash River.

Overnight stay at the “Edelweiss Meadow” base camp (3600 meters).