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Khan-Tengry Peak

Program of ascention to Khan-Tengry Peak 7010 m


In the world, there are very few mountains comparable by their beauty with this snow-clad giant. Words are flat and helpless when you talk about the Khan-Tengri’s beauty. You must see it with your own eyes. The sunset at the Peak is stunning: surrounding mountains are drowning in the dusk while the Peak, dominating over all other mountains around, turns flaming red in the rays of the sitting sun and clouds cast twirling shadows streaming down its slopes.
“Khan-Tengri” - “The Master of the Sky” in the Mongolian language, from time immemorial is known to native local inhabitants, Kyrgyz, as “Kan-Too” - “Blood Mountain” (“kan” means “blood”, “too” - “mountain”). First scientific account on the Peak dates back to the middle of the 19th century when Khan-Tengri had been seen and described by notorious Russian explorer of the Tian Shan mountains P.P. Semenov-Tian-Sanskiy, in 1856-57. Here is an excerpt from his personal diary: ”When we got up to the top of the mountain pass it was about one o’clock p.m. We were surprised and dazzled with the sight we’ve got. Straight to the south of us laid the most magnificent of all mountain ranges I’ve ever seen. The entire range top to bottom consisted of snowy giants which, to the left and right hand side of me, I could number of not less than thirty in total. The whole range with intervals between mountain tops was covered by interminable shroud of eternal snow. Amidst these giants, an outstanding one was strikingly contrasting with the rest by its snow-white pointed pyramid, which, from our pass’ heights, other peaks seemed to be half the height of...” And that was the Khan-Tengri Peak.
As of today, more than 10 mountaineering routes have been laid to the top of the Khan-Tengri Peak. All the routes can be subdivided into two main groups: northern routes commencing from the North Inilchek Glacier and southern routes - starting from the South Inilchek Glacier. Most popular with mountaineers is so called “Marble Rib” route, the route №1 beginning from the Semenovskiy Glacier on the south. This route is under constant monitoring by rescue services.
Besides well-known peaks like Peak Khan-Tengri and Peak Pobeda, the area has over 30 peaks around 6,000m-high. Some of them still wait for their first-ever climber.

Our tour program supposes two variants of arriving
to the Base Camp of Peak Khan-Tengry:

1. Via Bishkek - the capital of Kyrgyzstan, then by means of car transport via Issyk-Kul Lake to the alpine camp Karkara, whence there will be a helicopter flight to the Base Camp.
2. Via Almaty - the South capital of Kazakhstan and then by means of car transport to the alpine camp Karkara, whence there will be a helicopter flight to the Base Camp.

After that you will make a car transfer to the summer camp Karkara, whence a helicopter will take you towards the North and South Inilchek Glaciers to our Base Camps.
Khan-Tengri is in the short list of the world’s top-class summits that every self-respecting mountaineer dreams of climbing. But give up your hopes to succeed to the top if your personal track record includes only a few simple routes and your high-altitude physical and technical preparedness is not appropriate. The mountain is extremely serious both physically and technically. Classical West Rib route that is described here below is not a simple one. Before setting off, the one adventuring on the climb must consciously weigh up one’s potential and ability of doing that. Because when the dice is cast you are to meet with the Great Mountain face to face.


Preliminary dates helicopter flights 2012:

To Base Camp
«Khan-Tengry»

15.07

19.07

22.07

26.07

29.07

02.08

05.08

08.08

11.08

15.08

From Base Camp
«Khan-Tengry»

02.08

05.08

08.08

11.08

15.08

18.08

22.08

25.08

30.08

05.09


Program of the tour:

Day 1
Arrival in Bishkek. Meeting at the airport. Transfer to a hotel. Accommodation. Free time for wandering in town, visiting Osh bazaar, etc.
Day 2
Drive to Karkara (460km). Accommodation in Base Camp “Karkara”.
Day 3
Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Khan Tengry” (3,900m). Base Camp “Khan-Tengry”, is located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka Glacier, which is on the height of about 3900m.
Day 4
Familiarization with the territory the Khan Tengry Peak. Having waken up you will be impressed by a surrounding natural beauty. Acclimatization forays are waiting ahead. And you’ve got time to think and decide where you should store part of your belongings and how you’d like to spend free time in the Base Camp. You do not need to worry of your stuff if you choose using the storage room. The Base Camp’s manager (superintendent) is responsible for the whole stuff now and in case of a loss he pays with his own head! He, indeed, has got a trustworthy head, which you can rely upon. And take our good advice: do not waste your time sitting in the Base Camp all day long. It’s better spare your free time for acclimatization walks in the area. Just go and see it.
Day 5
Acclimatization foray to Peak Khan-Tengri. Continuation of familiarization with the area. Preparation for climbing.
Day 6
Base Camp (4,000m) - Camp 1 (4,200m). The itinerary begins from the Base Camp located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka Glacier, approximately at 4,000m above see level. Thence the route lies along the central part of the South Inilchek Glacier towards Camp 1 (4,200m). Camp 1 is usually set at junction between South Inilchek Glacier and Semenovskiy Glacier on the right-hand side moraine at the foot of the Peak Chapaev.
Day 7
Camp 1 (4,200m) - Camp 2 (5,300m). You uphill along the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping at the ice-fall. Upper reaches of the glacier are objectively dangerous due to possible icefalls rushing down from the Peak Chapaev and Peak Khan-Tengri. We highly recommend your very early start in the morning and going in non-stop regime for as long as possible. The icefall is passed either frontally through or bypassed on the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. Second option is faster but more risky than the first one due to high possibility of avalanches and rock-falls from the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. It is advisable that you move on the belay due to abundance of crevasses on the body of the glacier. Having passed the icefall, you carry on to the upper cirque of the Semenovskiy Glacier housing Camp 2 (5,300m). Traditionally, this camp is used during first acclimatization foray. But then at the second forays, they usually uphill from Camp 1 straight to Camp 3.
Day 8
Camp 2 (5,300m) - Camp 3 (5,900m). From Camp 2 uphill on rather gentle slope to the upper reaches of the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping towards the saddle lying between Peak Khan-Tengri and the arm of the Peak Chapaev. You set your Camp 3 (5,900m) at the left-hand side part of the saddle. You may either put up tents or dig out burrows (caves) in the snow. Should you have luck, you may find and use burrows left by somebody else climbing before you.
Day 9
Downhill to Base Camp (4,000m) along the path of uphill.
Day 10
Rest days. Use this opportunity for wandering around, exploring the picturesque environs and taking piles of unforgettable photos…
Day 11
Rest days. Use this opportunity for wandering around, exploring the picturesque environs and taking piles of unforgettable photos…
Day 12
Camp 1 (4,200m) - Camp 2 (5,200m).
Day 13
Camp 2 (5,200m) - Camp 3 (5,900m).
Day 14
Camp 3 (5,900m) - Camp 4 (6,400m). From Camp 3 the route goes on through the saddle and along the western ridge of Peak Khan-Tengri. Passage on the ridge, as a rule, is secured by ropes fixed along the whole extent of the ridge. Beware of old worn-out fixed ropes often found on the way – these are ropes left by previous expeditions and they may be dangerous. Double your attentiveness! Up to 6,900m the route goes on the rocks, then on the snow cupola that turn into the narrow snow “knife” (crest) leading to the apex. Spots good for camping are available at heights 6,200m, 6,400m and 6,700m. If needed, Camp 4 can set up there; most convenient spot is at 6,400m.
Day 15
Uphill to the top of the Peak Khan-Tengri (6.995m). Downhill to Camp 3 (5,900m).
Till altitude 6,700m you uphill on the right-hand side of the western ridge. From altitude 6,700m carry on traversing to the right towards couloir. At the beginning of the couloir there is a 10m-high rocky wall. Thence along the couloir, and keeping on the right again. Climb up the rocks to get to the small snow crest turning into the small rocky wall 20m-high giving way to the apex. The summit is marked by rather unimpressive metal tripod.
And… You are on the top, Hurray!!!! The entire Tian-Shan lies underneath your feet!!!
In case of good weather, take 20 to 30 minutes break for photographing and enjoying the moment of victory, then - start downhill, as your way down is no less hard and risky than your way up is.
Day 16
Downhill to Base Camp (4,000m) on the way of ascent.
Day 17
Reserve days in case of bad weather. Well, weather in Tian-Shan is always kind of gambling. And you’ve got to always take into account the local “master’s” mood.
Day 18
Reserve days in case of bad weather. Well, weather in Tian-Shan is always kind of gambling. And you’ve got to always take into account the local “master’s” mood.
Day 19
Helicopter flight to Karkara and further on by road to Bishkek. Accommodation at a hotel, back to the amenities of long forgotten civilization, a night’s stroll in town, free time for shopping souvenirs.
Day 20
Day at leisure. That is all. Tomorrow there is no contemplation on tactics of ascent, no planning for the current day, no hustle staffing of you backpack open to all shrilling Tian-Shan winds, no painful peering at the gorgeous and luring summit - that all is gone now. Tomorrow you are back to your everyday routine. But in the middle of humdrum life there will always be a moment of absolutely new feeling invariably bringing you back in your memories to what you once have endured, seen and felt last Summer way down at Peak Khan-Tengri. And a whisper creeping in to your ear from nowhere would suddenly say: “Hey, look, let us get back…”.
Day 21
Departure from Bishkek.

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak»:

Full package

1395 EURO


The cost of full package includes:

• Meeting / transfer from / to airport of Bishkek and Almaty;
• Dinners during Bishkek - Karkara transfer;
• All transfers according to the program;
• Arranging necessary documents (registration in immigration policy and border permit)*;
• Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Khan-Tengry” and back with baggage (weight of baggage transportation is unlimited);
• Services in exchanging of air and railway tickets;
• Accommodation at a hotel 2-3* with breakfast in Bishkek;
• Accommodation in the Camp «Karkara» with meals - full board (4 nights);
• Services in Base Camp “Khan-Tengry” (4,000m):
- accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring and mattresses);
- meals on full board basis (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
- toilets, luggage office at Base Camp;
- sauna (steam room) at Base Camp;
- medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
- electric supply (220 V; 50 HZ);
- high-altitude guide consultancy services;
- doctor consultancy services;
- registration with rescue team;
- rent of radio stations during the ascent (only for the group with more than 3 persons);
- usage of remote wireless;
- ecological tax for staying on the territory of the camp.

The cost does not include:

• Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
• Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
• Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak»:

Small package

795 EURO


The cost of small package includes:

• Helicopter flight to Base Camp and back with personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 3 euro per each extra kilo);
• Consultancy service of local guide;
• Consultancy of doctor;
• Registration with local Rescue Party;
• Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• Frontier zone permit;
• Usage of fixed handhold rope;
• Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan.

Extra services:

• Rent of high-altitude tent - 50 EURO per program;
• Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 6 EURO per tank;
• Internet club service - 20 EURO per hour;
• International calls - 3 EURO per minute.

Guide services:

• 1 person - 1200 EURO
• 2 person - 750 EURO per person
• 3 person - 600 EURO per person

Porters services:

• BC - Camp 1 - 5 EURO/per kg
• Camp 1 - Camp 2 - 10 EURO/per kg
• Camp 2 - Camp 3 - 10 EURO/per kg

* Frequently asked questions »»

* Note: For issuing a frontier zone permit and for registration in the Ministry of Home Affairs’ authorities it is necessary (not later than 1 month before your arrival) to send us the following passport data: passport copy, or: your full name, date of birth, nationality, passport number, and planned period of your staying in Kyrgyzstan. There is a visa-free policy to Kyrgyzstan citizens of Russia and the countries of Commonwealth of Independent States.

** Note: The cost of the program includes climbing the both peaks: the Pobeda Peak and the Khan-Tengry Peak.

Photo of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak»:

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