E. Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m) + Communism Peak (7495m)

Ascent Expedition to Tajikistan’s Two Most Famous Seventhousanders

 

Location of the Route: Tajikistan View the route map »»
Route: Dushanbe – Jirgital Village – Base Camp – Jirgital Village – Dushanbe
Duration: 30 days / 29 nights

Korzhenevskaya Peak or Peak Ozodi (Freedom) — is one of the famous Pamir seventhousanders in the north of the Academy of Sciences Range. Discovered in 1910 by a Russian traveler Nikolay Korzhenevsky, it was named after his wife, geographer Eugenia Korzhenevskaya, who joined him in scientific expeditions. The summit had this name until 2020 when it was changed to Peak Ozodi.

Communism Peak or Ismail Samani Peak — is the highest point of Tajikistan and the entire post-Soviet area, located in the North-Western Pamirs, discovered by the Soviet-German expedition in 1928, later named after Stalin until its name was changed to Communism Peak in 1962. In 1999, it was called Ismail Samani Peak in honor of the founder of the first Tajik state (Xth century).

We head off to the base camp (4200m) from Jirgital Village by helicopter, as currently this the only option for transferring to the camp. Hiking – possible a few years ago – can not be done at the moment due to extremely hard passing. The camp lies at the confluence of the Valter and Moskvin Glaciers (eastern tributaries of the Fortambek Glacier) – and this is the closest to the peaks, most convenient and safe spot for departure. We suggest making a 2-4 day hiking trip through the Fortambek Glacier towards the Suloev Glade to enjoy the scenery of the Pamir giants, such as the Peak of Russia, Moscow Peak, the Glacier Tramplinny – the origin of regular avalanche descent.

It’s worth mentioning that the height of Korzhenevskaya and Communism Peaks exceeds 7000m, thus the ascent is classified as a high-altitude one. In fact, the locals call the Peak of Communism Uz-tergi, which literally means ‘head-spinning”. Indeed, the summit is the entrance to the Heavenly Abode, so feeling dizziness is a rule here, not an exception.

The ascent route itself is quite challenging, moreover, such insidious factors as unpredictable weather and altitude pressure can play a critical role for the success or failure of the expedition. To make the ascent a success, you might require a considerable climbing experience, excellent physical condition, high-quality equipment and proper acclimatization.

Schedule for Helicopter Flights on the Route Jirgital – Base Camp – Jirgital, 2024
July 15, 24
August 3, 15, 25
  • GUIDED GROUP
  • Individual

 

Guided group tour to Korzhenevskaya Peak and Communism Peak on guaranteed dates:
Day 1 Arrival in Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel. Visit to the capital of Tajikistan.
Day 2 Transfer to Jirgital. Accommodation in a tent camp or a guest house.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to the Base camp (4360m) on the Moskvin Glade. Accommodation in the camp.
Day 4 Acclimatization in the Base camp area: trip to the Moskvin and Valter Glaciers.
Day 5 Preparation day prior to the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak.
Day 7 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 8 Rest day in the Base camp.
Day 9 Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak.
Day 10 Ascent to the height of 6400m.
Day 11 Ascent of E. Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m). Descent to the camp at 6400m.
Day 12 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 13 Rest day in the Base camp.
Day 14 Preparation day prior to the ascent of Communism Peak.
Day 15 Ascent to the height of 5100-5300m on the way to Communism Peak.
Day 16 Ascent to the height of 5900m.
Day 17 Reach the Pamir Plateau.
Day 18 Ascent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m).
Day 19 Ascent to Communism Peak (7495m). Descent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m).
Day 20 Descent to 5300-5100m.
Day 21 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 22-28 Extra days used in case of bad weather.
Day 29 Helicopter flight to the Base camp – Jirgital Village. Transfer to Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel.
Day 30 Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Tour Cost 2023:

Group package 5100 USD/person

The cost of the package includes:

Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport of Dushanbe city
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgital airport – Dushanbe
  • Helicopter flight Jirgital – Base camp – Jirgital with personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 5 USD per each extra kilo);
Accommodation:
  • Accommodation in a hotel in Dushanbe (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in Jirgital Village
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in double tents.
Meals:
  • 3-time-a-day full meals at the Base Camp
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna in BC 1 (once a week)
  • Charging of gadgets
  • Luggage room
  • Medical service
Altitude service:
  • Services of a mountain guide for the period of the active part of the tour
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Accommodationin set up high-altitude tents in camps under Korzhenevskaya peak
  • Rent of high-altitude tents for ascent to Communism peak
  • Use of fixed ropes along the route
  • Group equipment: ropes (if necessary), gas cartridges and gas burners, a set of utensils for cooking
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station (walkie-talkie)
Documents and taxes:
  • Visa to Tajikistan and GBAO permit (if necessary)
  • Ecological fee for living in the camp
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
Price-list for the additional services:
  • Services of porters:
    • 4200 m – 5300 m – 10 USD/kg
    • 5300 m – 5800 m – 14 USD/kg
    • 5800 m – 6300 m – 20 USD/kg
  • Gas cartridges 230g – 10 USD/pcs., 440g - 20 USD/pcs.
  • Internet (Wi-Fi) in Base Camp – 5 USD / 1 hour
  • Accommodation in the Base camp (for a tent) – 25 USD / 1 day
  • Meals:
    • breakfast – 20 USD
    • lunch – 25 USD
    • dinner – 25 USD

 

Guided group tour to Korzhenevskaya Peak and Communism Peak on guaranteed dates:
Day 1 Arrival in Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel. Visit to the capital of Tajikistan.
Day 2 Transfer to Jirgital. Accommodation in a tent camp or a guest house.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to the Base camp (4360m) on the Moskvin Glade. Accommodation in the camp.
Day 4 Acclimatization in the Base camp area: trip to the Moskvin and Valter Glaciers.
Day 5 Preparation day prior to the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak.
Day 7 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 8 Rest day in the Base camp.
Day 9 Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak.
Day 10 Ascent to the height of 6400m.
Day 11 Ascent of E. Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m). Descent to the camp at 6400m.
Day 12 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 13 Rest day in the Base camp.
Day 14 Preparation day prior to the ascent of Communism Peak.
Day 15 Ascent to the height of 5100-5300m on the way to Communism Peak.
Day 16 Ascent to the height of 5900m.
Day 17 Reach the Pamir Plateau.
Day 18 Ascent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m).
Day 19 Ascent to Communism Peak (7495m). Descent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m).
Day 20 Descent to 5300-5100m.
Day 21 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 22-28 Extra days used in case of bad weather.
Day 29 Helicopter flight to the Base camp – Jirgital Village. Transfer to Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel.
Day 30 Transfer to the airport. Departure.
  • Package Basic Plus
    - 3900 USD/person
  • Package Basic
    - 3500 USD/person
  • Package Economy
    - 2700 USD/person

 

Tour Cost 2024:

Package Basic Plus 3900 USD/person

The cost of the package includes:

Transfers:
  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport of Dushanbe city
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgital airport – Dushanbe
  • Helicopter flight Jirgital – Base camp – Jirgital with personal load up to 35 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 5 USD per each extra kilo);
Accommodation:
  • Accommodation in a hotel in Dushanbe (2 nights)
  • Accommodation in Jirgital Village
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in heated cottages.
Meals:
  • 3-time-a-day full meals at the Base Camp
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Shower cabins
  • Sauna in BC 1 (once a week)
  • Charging of gadgets
  • Luggage room
  • Medical service
Altitude service:
  • Use of fixed ropes along the route
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station walkie-talkie (for groups of more than 3 people)
Documents and taxes:
  • Visa to Tajikistan and GBAO permit (if necessary)
  • Ecological fee for living in the camp
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
Price-list for the additional services:
  • The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Korzhenevskaya peak) – 2600 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
  • The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Communism peak) – 2200 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
  • The services of a mountain guide per day:
    • ascent to Communism peak – 180 USD / 1 day
    • ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak – 150 USD / 1 day
  • Guide services for the summit assault:
    • to Communism peak – 1000 USD
    • to Korzhenevskaya peak – 800 USD
  • Services of porters:
    • 4200 m – 5300 m – 10 USD/kg
    • 5300 m – 5800 m – 14 USD/kg
    • 5800 m – 6300 m – 20 USD/kg
  • Gas cartridges 230g – 15 USD/pcs., 440g - 25 USD/pcs
  • Rent of tents for ascending – 80 USD/per program
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents 5300 m and 5800 m under Korzhenevskaya peak – 80 USD / 1 night / tent
  • Internet (Wi-Fi) in Base Camp – 5 USD / 1 hour
  • Accommodation in the Base camp (for a tent) – 25 USD / 1 day
  • Meals:
    • breakfast – 20 USD
    • lunch – 25 USD
    • dinner – 25 USD

 

TOUR COST 2024:

Package Basic 3500 USD/person

The cost of the package includes:

Transfers:
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgital airport – Dushanbe
  • Helicopter flight Jirgital – Base camp – Jirgital with personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 5 USD per each extra kilo);
Accommodation:
  • Accommodation in Jirgital Village (1 night)
  • Accommodation in Base Camp in tents.
Meals:
  • 3-time-a-day full meals at the Base Camp
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Shower cabins
  • Charging of gadgets
  • Luggage room
  • Medical service
Altitude service:
  • Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
  • Use of fixed ropes along the route
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station walkie-talkie (for groups of more than 3 people)
Documents and taxes:
  • Visa to Tajikistan and GBAO permit (if necessary)
  • Ecological fee for living in the camp
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
Price-list for the additional services:
  • The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Korzhenevskaya peak) – 2500 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
  • The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Communism peak) – 2000 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
  • The services of a mountain guide per day:
    • ascent to Communism peak – 170 USD / 1 day
    • ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak – 140 USD / 1 day
  • Services of porters:
    • 4200 m – 5300 m – 10 USD/kg
    • 5300 m – 5800 m – 14 USD/kg
    • 5800 m – 6300 m – 20 USD/kg
  • Gas cartridges 230g – 10 USD/pcs., 440g - 20 USD/pcs
  • Rent of tents for ascending – 80 USD/per program
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents 5300 m and 5800 m under Korzhenevskaya peak – 80 USD / 1 night / tent
  • Internet (Wi-Fi) in Base Camp – 5 USD / 1 hour
  • Accommodation in the Base camp (for a tent) – 25 USD / 1 day
  • Meals:
    • breakfast – 20 USD
    • lunch – 25 USD
    • dinner – 25 USD

 

TOUR COST 2024:

Package Economy 2700 USD/person

The cost of the package includes:

Transfers:
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgital airport – Dushanbe
  • Helicopter flight Jirgital – Base camp – Jirgital with personal load up to 25 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 5 USD per each extra kilo);
Accommodation:
  • Accommodation in BC in your tents
  • Accommodation in Jirgital village in a guest house (1 night)
Base camp services (3600 meters):
  • Shower cabins
  • Charging of gadgets
  • Luggage room
  • Medical service
Altitude service:
  • Use of fixed ropes along the route
Mandatory security measures:
  • Registration in the rescue squad
  • Consultation concerning the climbing route
  • Rent of portable radio station walkie-talkie (for groups of more than 3 people)
Documents and taxes:
  • Visa to Tajikistan and GBAO permit (if necessary)
  • Ecological fee for living in the camp
  • Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
Price-list for the additional services:
  • The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Korzhenevskaya peak) – 2500 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
  • The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Communism peak) – 2000 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
  • The services of a mountain guide per day:
    • ascent to Communism peak – 170 USD / 1 day
    • ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak – 140 USD / 1 day
  • Services of porters:
    • 4200 m – 5300 m – 10 USD/kg
    • 5300 m – 5800 m – 14 USD/kg
    • 5800 m – 6300 m – 20 USD/kg
  • Gas cartridges 230g – 10 USD/pcs., 440g - 20 USD/pcs
  • Rent of tents for ascending – 80 USD/per program
  • Accommodation in high-altitude tents 5300 m and 5800 m under Korzhenevskaya peak – 80 USD / 1 night / tent
  • Internet (Wi-Fi) in Base Camp – 5 USD / 1 hour
  • Accommodation in the Base camp (for a tent) – 25 USD / 1 day
  • Meals:
    • breakfast – 20 USD
    • lunch – 25 USD
    • dinner – 25 USD


  • TACTIC OF ASCENTION.
    ROUTE MAP
  • EQUIPMENT.
    MEDICAL CHEST
  • INFORMATION ABOUT
    BASE CAMPS

 

Tactic of ascention to Communism Peak

The easiest and the most popular program of ascent to Communism Peak is the way from the north from Walter glacier. It was discovered in 1968 by the team of Moscow mountaineers under the guidance of Borodkin along the ridge, which was named after him subsequently. An average group having enough good acclimatization has the following schedule of moving to the plateau with descent to the Base Camp:

1 step. From the Base Camp located on a green Moskvina Glade (4200 m) the route goes along the path along Walter glacier, then crosses the glacier. The ascent to the Camp 1 (5З00 m) above the top of a rocky triangle goes on steep scree ridge. More often this rocky triangle is passed around from the left side along snowy sloping bridge. But this way is more dangerous, as it goes under a cornice glacier.

2 step. From the Camp 1 up to snowy caps of “bosom” (6200 m) the route goes along snowy ridge with small icy rises. The path is beaten here in a high season, and rope is fixed in the most difficult points. There is a short descent from “bosom” to the Camp 3 (6100 m) that is located on Big Pamir Plateau.

3 step. Crossing the plateau and ascending to the Camp 4 (6400 m) along flat wide snowy ridge.

4 step. Continuation of the ascent goes on the ridge along the southeast rocky spur to the western side or so-called Dushanbe Peak (6950 m). An assault camp is located in snowy mold at height of 6900 m (4-6 hours of walking, it depends on the condition of snow).

5 step. The route to the summit goes by traverse to the left along a steep glacier snow under rocks to the barricade at first, and then about 300 m - along the northern steep (40°) ridge. Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp 3.

6 step. Descent to the Base Camp.
The one of the fastest ascents to Communism Peak was made in 1990 by V. Obihod and E. Klinetskiy. They spent about 20 hours (descent is included), they didn’t put a bivouac, mounted the differential of heights of 3300 meters.

Route map

Route map

Scheme of expedition to Communism Peak

Scheme of expedition to Communism Peak

 

Personal and group equipment for expedition to the Communism Peak (7495 m)

  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
1 Track shoes pair 1 -
2 Shoes for the high attitude roads pair 1 -
3 Assault jacket GOR-TEX piece 1 -
4 Assault trousers GOR-TEX piece 1 -
5 Downy jacket piece 1 -
6 Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX piece 1 -
7 Downy sleeping bag piece 1 -
8 Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR piece 1 -
9 Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK piece 2 -
10 Mittens for the high attitude ascents pair 1 -
11 Gloves pair 2 -
12 Peaked worm cap or hat piece 1 -
13 Flasks - - -
14 Socks-POLAR pair 3 -
15 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre piece 1 -
16 Mat "KARIMAT" piece 1 -
17 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 piece 1 -
18 Clumps-right and left piece 1 -
19 Belay arrangement “figure of 8 knot” piece 1 -
20 Necking-belay system complete set 1 -
21 Carabin with muff piece 2-3 -
22 Snow shovel piece 1 -
23 Hygienic lip-stick piece 1 -
24 Solar control cream piece 1 -
25 Transport trunk piece 1 -
26 Pen knife piece 1 -
27 Crampons pair 1 -
28 Ice-axe piece 1 -
29 Snow goggles piece 1 -
30 Telescopic stick pair 1 -
31 Head torch piece 1 -
32 Rope (nylon) 25-30 m piece 1 -
33 Rocky hook, titanic complete set 3 -
34 Mortgage components «Clamps» complete set 3 -
35 Mortgage components «Fredni» complete set 3 -
36 Ice hooks «bore for drilling ice», titanic piece 6 -
37 Snow anchors piece 2 -
38 Rocky hammer piece 1 -
39 Safety loops 5 i. piece 3 -
40 Protective helmet piece 1 -
41 Tent 2-3 m piece 1 for 2-3 person
42 Gas stove piece 1 for 2-3 person
43 Gas cylinder (230 ml.) piece 1 for 2-3 person
44 Dishes complete set 1 for 2-3 person
45 Radio station metric waves complete set 1 for 2-3 person
46 First-aid kit complete set 1 for 2-3 person

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MEDICAL CHEST OF THE CLIMBERS

The list of medicaments that are used during the climbing to the Communism Peak Quantity
Dekamevit (vitamins) pills
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) pills
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning on height) pills
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) pills
Nifidepine (edema of the lungs) pills
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) pills
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) inj. By 1 ml.
Dexamethasone pills
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) pills
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) pills
Trental (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml.
Riboksin (to improve one’s heart/liver function) pills
Ksantinola nicotine (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills,inj by 2ml.
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) pills
Furosemide (diuretic) pills
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) pills
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) inj. By 2 ml.
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) pills
Verospirone (diuretic) pills

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Information about base camps of Communism Peak

An international camp for alpinists is situated on sub alpine zone, in height more than 4200 km. over sea level; on eastern bank terrace, on eastern glaciers of “Valter” and” Moskvina” (The eastern tributary of the glacier Fortambek) and being the most convenient starting base for subjugation of the peak of “Communism” and “Korjehnevskoy” because of the most short approaches to them. The common area of the glacier “Moskvina” is about 10 hectare and it is much safe even in case of rock sliding and avalanching.
There is a lake on the glacier “Moskvina” that is nourished by many springs. On the glacier “Moskvina” Diesel-generator is the main source of the electricity. The thermal electricity for preparing food is a natural gas. Iron tanks with diesel fuels and container with natural gas are brought with the help of helicopters from Dushanbe. A very convenient area for helicopters is also situated here.

You have at your disposal:

  • Convenient and spacious tarpaulin wire frame tents.
  • For them who wants to feel fresh after raising the base camp have a wonderful Russian bath with a real heat that is burnt every day in the second half of the day.
  • An autonomous diesel power plant that provides us with a 20 kilowatt electricity for lightning, burning Russian baths, equipments, recharging of accumulators;
  • If you are keep all your things in cells you should not worry about their safety. The commandant of the camp responds for your things safety you can be sure he is very solid, you can trust him.
  • Also there lives a doctor. He has his own room with all the necessary medicaments for rendering you the first aid, including oxygen equipments. Resuscitation specialist has a big experience of the high attitude work, so that he can give you skilled help any time you need. He also have such obligations as making examinations, consultations, and delivering all the necessary information about your health during the whole tour so welcome you may ask him!
  • For them who do not want to sit in the tent we have a stretched volley ball net, under this net you can find a ball, so your recreation is active every day!
  • You will feel much comfortable knowing that some where in the camp sits a special life-saving group that consists of a skilled high attitude guides who are ready to help you anytime and everywhere. In this situation the most important is not to forget to register in the book of leaving. For this you will be given a special certificate after return.
  • The most important on the mountain is a normal, hot and a 3 times- a -day food. Our camp guarantees you 2 hot meals, 2 vegetable salads, fruit dessert, tea or coffee (on your desire). Vegetarians we have done everything for your comfort as we have food for vegetarians and you can order everything you would like to we have fore seed everything. In the camp work just professional cooks who have worked in restaurants for more than 10 years.
  • The camp provides you with a high-attitude equipment in lease(high attitude tents Red Fox and Terra Nova, ropes e.t.c.).

It is not everything.

You are missing house? In that case we have our satellite phone, internet, radio station providing you connection with Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent the Base camp near Peak Lenin and Khan-Tengri. Your batteries are out of charge? Do not worry you can recharge it. You have burned out the whole gas in your tear gas spray? Cheer up we will supply it for you. And also radio connection with camps, lease of equipments, high attitude porters, mountain guides… do you need something else?

The camp can accept till 120 people at once and it is active till the middle of July or till the end of August.

Photo of the tour «Communism Peak»:

see all photos of Communism Peak »»

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