E. Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m) + Communism Peak (7495m)
Ascent Expedition to Tajikistan’s Two Most Famous Seventhousanders
Location of the Route: | Tajikistan | View the route map »» |
Route: | Dushanbe – Jirgital Village – Base Camp – Jirgital Village – Dushanbe | |
Duration: | 35 days / 34 nights |
GUARANTEED DATES OF THE GROUP TOUR IN 2024:
Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak | Korzhenevskaya Peak |
13.07–16.08.2024 | 13.07–04.08.2024 |
Korzhenevskaya Peak or Peak Ozodi (Freedom) — is one of the famous Pamir seventhousanders in the north of the Academy of Sciences Range. Discovered in 1910 by a Russian traveler Nikolay Korzhenevsky, it was named after his wife, geographer Eugenia Korzhenevskaya, who joined him in scientific expeditions. The summit had this name until 2020 when it was changed to Peak Ozodi.
Communism Peak or Ismail Samani Peak — is the highest point of Tajikistan and the entire post-Soviet area, located in the North-Western Pamirs, discovered by the Soviet-German expedition in 1928, later named after Stalin until its name was changed to Communism Peak in 1962. In 1999, it was called Ismail Samani Peak in honor of the founder of the first Tajik state (Xth century).
We head off to the base camp (4200m) from Jirgital Village by helicopter, as currently this the only option for transferring to the camp. Hiking – possible a few years ago – can not be done at the moment due to extremely hard passing. The camp lies at the confluence of the Valter and Moskvin Glaciers (eastern tributaries of the Fortambek Glacier) – and this is the closest to the peaks, most convenient and safe spot for departure. We suggest making a 2-4 day hiking trip through the Fortambek Glacier towards the Suloev Glade to enjoy the scenery of the Pamir giants, such as the Peak of Russia, Moscow Peak, the Glacier Tramplinny – the origin of regular avalanche descent.
It’s worth mentioning that the height of Korzhenevskaya and Communism Peaks exceeds 7000m, thus the ascent is classified as a high-altitude one. In fact, the locals call the Peak of Communism Uz-tergi, which literally means ‘head-spinning”. Indeed, the summit is the entrance to the Heavenly Abode, so feeling dizziness is a rule here, not an exception.
The ascent route itself is quite challenging, moreover, such insidious factors as unpredictable weather and altitude pressure can play a critical role for the success or failure of the expedition. To make the ascent a success, you might require a considerable climbing experience, excellent physical condition, high-quality equipment and proper acclimatization.
Schedule for Helicopter Flights on the Route Jirgital – Base Camp – Jirgital, 2024 | |
July | 15, 24 |
August | 3, 15, 25 |
- GUIDED GROUP
- Individual
Guided group tour to Korzhenevskaya Peak and Communism Peak on guaranteed dates: | |
Day 1 | Arrival in Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel. Visit to the capital of Tajikistan. |
Day 2 | Transfer to Jirgital. Accommodation in a tent camp or a guest house. |
Day 3 | Helicopter flight to the Base camp (4360m) on the Moskvin Glade. Accommodation in the camp. |
Day 4 | Acclimatization in the Base camp area: trip to the Moskvin and Valter Glaciers. |
Day 5 | Preparation day prior to the ascent. |
Day 6 | Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak. |
Day 7 | Descent to the Base camp. |
Day 8 | Rest day in the Base camp. |
Day 9 | Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak. |
Day 10 | Ascent to the height of 6400m. |
Day 11 | Ascent of E. Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m). Descent to the camp at 6400m. |
Day 12 | Descent to the Base camp. |
Day 13 | Rest day in the Base camp. |
Day 14 | Preparation day prior to the ascent of Communism Peak. |
Day 15 | Ascent to the height of 5100-5300m on the way to Communism Peak. |
Day 16 | Ascent to the height of 5900m. |
Day 17 | Reach the Pamir Plateau. |
Day 18 | Ascent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m). |
Day 19 | Ascent to Communism Peak (7495m). Descent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m). |
Day 20 | Descent to 5300-5100m. |
Day 21 | Descent to the Base camp. |
Day 22-33 | Extra days used in case of bad weather. |
Day 34 | Helicopter flight to the Base camp – Jirgital Village. Transfer to Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel. |
Day 35 | Transfer to the airport. Departure. |
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The cost of the package includes:Transfers:
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Guided group tour to Korzhenevskaya Peak and Communism Peak on guaranteed dates: | |
Day 1 | Arrival in Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel. Visit to the capital of Tajikistan. |
Day 2 | Transfer to Jirgital. Accommodation in a tent camp or a guest house. |
Day 3 | Helicopter flight to the Base camp (4360m) on the Moskvin Glade. Accommodation in the camp. |
Day 4 | Acclimatization in the Base camp area: trip to the Moskvin and Valter Glaciers. |
Day 5 | Preparation day prior to the ascent. |
Day 6 | Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak. |
Day 7 | Descent to the Base camp. |
Day 8 | Rest day in the Base camp. |
Day 9 | Ascent to the height of 5300m on the way to Korzhenevskaya Peak. |
Day 10 | Ascent to the height of 6400m. |
Day 11 | Ascent of E. Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m). Descent to the camp at 6400m. |
Day 12 | Descent to the Base camp. |
Day 13 | Rest day in the Base camp. |
Day 14 | Preparation day prior to the ascent of Communism Peak. |
Day 15 | Ascent to the height of 5100-5300m on the way to Communism Peak. |
Day 16 | Ascent to the height of 5900m. |
Day 17 | Reach the Pamir Plateau. |
Day 18 | Ascent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m). |
Day 19 | Ascent to Communism Peak (7495m). Descent to the area below Dushanbe Peak (7000m). |
Day 20 | Descent to 5300-5100m. |
Day 21 | Descent to the Base camp. |
Day 22-28 | Extra days used in case of bad weather. |
Day 29 | Helicopter flight to the Base camp – Jirgital Village. Transfer to Dushanbe. Check-in at the hotel. |
Day 30 | Transfer to the airport. Departure. |
- Package Basic Plus
- 3900 USD/person - Package Basic
- 3500 USD/person - Package Economy
- 2700 USD/person
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The cost of the package includes:Transfers:
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The cost of the package includes:
Transfers:- Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgital airport – Dushanbe
- Helicopter flight Jirgital – Base camp – Jirgital with personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 5 USD per each extra kilo);
- Accommodation in Jirgital Village (1 night)
- Accommodation in Base Camp in tents.
- 3-time-a-day full meals at the Base Camp
- Shower cabins
- Charging of gadgets
- Luggage room
- Medical service
- Set of high altitude products for the entire ascent period
- Use of fixed ropes along the route
- Registration in the rescue squad
- Consultation concerning the climbing route
- Rent of portable radio station walkie-talkie (for groups of more than 3 people)
- Ecological fee for living in the camp
- Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
- The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Korzhenevskaya peak) – 2500 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
- The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Communism peak) – 2000 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
- The services of a mountain guide per day:
- ascent to Communism peak – 170 USD / 1 day
- ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak – 140 USD / 1 day
- Services of porters:
- 4200 m – 5300 m – 10 USD/kg
- 5300 m – 5800 m – 14 USD/kg
- 5800 m – 6300 m – 20 USD/kg
- Gas cartridges 230g – 10 USD/pcs., 440g - 20 USD/pcs
- Rent of tents for ascending – 80 USD/per program
- Accommodation in high-altitude tents 5300 m and 5800 m under Korzhenevskaya peak – 80 USD / 1 night / tent
- Internet (Wi-Fi) in Base Camp – 5 USD / 1 hour
- Accommodation in the Base camp (for a tent) – 25 USD / 1 day
- Meals:
- breakfast – 20 USD
- lunch – 25 USD
- dinner – 25 USD
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The cost of the package includes:
Transfers:- Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgital airport – Dushanbe
- Helicopter flight Jirgital – Base camp – Jirgital with personal load up to 25 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 5 USD per each extra kilo);
- Accommodation in BC in your tents
- Accommodation in Jirgital village in a guest house (1 night)
- Shower cabins
- Charging of gadgets
- Luggage room
- Medical service
- Use of fixed ropes along the route
- Registration in the rescue squad
- Consultation concerning the climbing route
- Rent of portable radio station walkie-talkie (for groups of more than 3 people)
- Ecological fee for living in the camp
- Arrangement of Border Zone Permit
- The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Korzhenevskaya peak) – 2500 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
- The services of a mountain guide (ascent program to Communism peak) – 2000 USD per program (1 guide per 1-3 person )
- The services of a mountain guide per day:
- ascent to Communism peak – 170 USD / 1 day
- ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak – 140 USD / 1 day
- Services of porters:
- 4200 m – 5300 m – 10 USD/kg
- 5300 m – 5800 m – 14 USD/kg
- 5800 m – 6300 m – 20 USD/kg
- Gas cartridges 230g – 10 USD/pcs., 440g - 20 USD/pcs
- Rent of tents for ascending – 80 USD/per program
- Accommodation in high-altitude tents 5300 m and 5800 m under Korzhenevskaya peak – 80 USD / 1 night / tent
- Internet (Wi-Fi) in Base Camp – 5 USD / 1 hour
- Accommodation in the Base camp (for a tent) – 25 USD / 1 day
- Meals:
- breakfast – 20 USD
- lunch – 25 USD
- dinner – 25 USD
TACTIC OF ASCENTION.
ROUTE MAP- EQUIPMENT.
MEDICAL CHEST - INFORMATION
ABOUT
BASE CAMPS
Tactic of ascention to Communism Peak
The easiest and the most popular program of ascent to Communism Peak is the way from the north from Walter glacier. It was discovered in 1968 by the team of Moscow mountaineers under the guidance of Borodkin along the ridge, which was named after him subsequently. An average group having enough good acclimatization has the following schedule of moving to the plateau with descent to the Base Camp:
1 step. From the Base Camp located on a green Moskvina Glade (4200 m) the route goes along the path along Walter glacier, then crosses the glacier. The ascent to the Camp 1 (5З00 m) above the top of a rocky triangle goes on steep scree ridge. More often this rocky triangle is passed around from the left side along snowy sloping bridge. But this way is more dangerous, as it goes under a cornice glacier.
2 step. From the Camp 1 up to snowy caps of “bosom” (6200 m) the route goes along snowy ridge with small icy rises. The path is beaten here in a high season, and rope is fixed in the most difficult points. There is a short descent from “bosom” to the Camp 3 (6100 m) that is located on Big Pamir Plateau.
3 step. Crossing the plateau and ascending to the Camp 4 (6400 m) along flat wide snowy ridge.
4 step. Continuation of the ascent goes on the ridge along the southeast rocky spur to the western side or so-called Dushanbe Peak (6950 m). An assault camp is located in snowy mold at height of 6900 m (4-6 hours of walking, it depends on the condition of snow).
5 step. The route to the summit goes by traverse to the left along a steep glacier snow under rocks to the barricade at first, and then about 300 m - along the northern steep (40°) ridge. Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp 3.
6 step. Descent to the Base Camp.
The one of the fastest ascents to Communism Peak was made in 1990 by V. Obihod and E. Klinetskiy. They spent about 20 hours (descent is included), they didn’t put a bivouac, mounted the differential of heights of 3300 meters.
Route map
Scheme of expedition to Communism Peak
Scheme of expedition to Communism Peak
Personal and group equipment for expedition to the Communism Peak (7495 m)
Items: | Unit measure | Quantity | Notes | |
Items: | Unit measure | Quantity | Notes | |
1 | Track shoes | pair | 1 | - |
2 | Shoes for the high attitude roads | pair | 1 | - |
3 | Assault jacket GOR-TEX | piece | 1 | - |
4 | Assault trousers GOR-TEX | piece | 1 | - |
5 | Downy jacket | piece | 1 | - |
6 | Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX | piece | 1 | - |
7 | Downy sleeping bag | piece | 1 | - |
8 | Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR | piece | 1 | - |
9 | Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK | piece | 2 | - |
10 | Mittens for the high attitude ascents | pair | 1 | - |
11 | Gloves | pair | 2 | - |
12 | Peaked worm cap or hat | piece | 1 | - |
13 | Flasks | - | - | - |
14 | Socks-POLAR | pair | 3 | - |
15 | Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre | piece | 1 | - |
16 | Mat "KARIMAT" | piece | 1 | - |
17 | Rucksack for ascent 70-80 | piece | 1 | - |
18 | Clumps-right and left | piece | 1 | - |
19 | Belay arrangement “figure of 8 knot” | piece | 1 | - |
20 | Necking-belay system | complete set | 1 | - |
21 | Carabin with muff | piece | 2-3 | - |
22 | Snow shovel | piece | 1 | - |
23 | Hygienic lip-stick | piece | 1 | - |
24 | Solar control cream | piece | 1 | - |
25 | Transport trunk | piece | 1 | - |
26 | Pen knife | piece | 1 | - |
27 | Crampons | pair | 1 | - |
28 | Ice-axe | piece | 1 | - |
29 | Snow goggles | piece | 1 | - |
30 | Telescopic stick | pair | 1 | - |
31 | Head torch | piece | 1 | - |
32 | Rope (nylon) 25-30 m | piece | 1 | - |
33 | Rocky hook, titanic | complete set | 3 | - |
34 | Mortgage components «Clamps» | complete set | 3 | - |
35 | Mortgage components «Fredni» | complete set | 3 | - |
36 | Ice hooks «bore for drilling ice», titanic | piece | 6 | - |
37 | Snow anchors | piece | 2 | - |
38 | Rocky hammer | piece | 1 | - |
39 | Safety loops 5 i. | piece | 3 | - |
40 | Protective helmet | piece | 1 | - |
41 | Tent 2-3 m | piece | 1 | for 2-3 person |
42 | Gas stove | piece | 1 | for 2-3 person |
43 | Gas cylinder (230 ml.) | piece | 1 | for 2-3 person |
44 | Dishes | complete set | 1 | for 2-3 person |
45 | Radio station metric waves | complete set | 1 | for 2-3 person |
46 | First-aid kit | complete set | 1 | for 2-3 person |
MEDICAL CHEST OF THE CLIMBERS
The list of medicaments that are used during the climbing to the Communism Peak | Quantity |
Dekamevit (vitamins) | pills |
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) | pills |
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning on height) | pills |
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) | pills |
Nifidepine (edema of the lungs) | pills |
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) | pills |
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) | inj. By 1 ml. |
Dexamethasone | pills |
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) | pills |
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) | pills |
Trental (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) | pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml. |
Riboksin (to improve one’s heart/liver function) | pills |
Ksantinola nicotine (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) | pills,inj by 2ml. |
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) | pills |
Furosemide (diuretic) | pills |
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) | pills |
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) | inj. By 2 ml. |
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) | pills |
Verospirone (diuretic) | pills |
Information about base camps of Communism Peak
An international camp for alpinists is situated on sub alpine zone, in height more than 4200 km. over sea level; on eastern bank terrace, on eastern glaciers of “Valter” and” Moskvina” (The eastern tributary of the glacier Fortambek) and being the most convenient starting base for subjugation of the peak of “Communism” and “Korjehnevskoy” because of the most short approaches to them. The common area of the glacier “Moskvina” is about 10 hectare and it is much safe even in case of rock sliding and avalanching.
There is a lake on the glacier “Moskvina” that is nourished by many springs. On the glacier “Moskvina” Diesel-generator is the main source of the electricity. The thermal electricity for preparing food is a natural gas. Iron tanks with diesel fuels and container with natural gas are brought with the help of helicopters from Dushanbe. A very convenient area for helicopters is also situated here.
You have at your disposal:
- Convenient and spacious tarpaulin wire frame tents.
- For them who wants to feel fresh after raising the base camp have a wonderful Russian bath with a real heat that is burnt every day in the second half of the day.
- An autonomous diesel power plant that provides us with a 20 kilowatt electricity for lightning, burning Russian baths, equipments, recharging of accumulators;
- If you are keep all your things in cells you should not worry about their safety. The commandant of the camp responds for your things safety you can be sure he is very solid, you can trust him.
- Also there lives a doctor. He has his own room with all the necessary medicaments for rendering you the first aid, including oxygen equipments. Resuscitation specialist has a big experience of the high attitude work, so that he can give you skilled help any time you need. He also have such obligations as making examinations, consultations, and delivering all the necessary information about your health during the whole tour so welcome you may ask him!
- For them who do not want to sit in the tent we have a stretched volley ball net, under this net you can find a ball, so your recreation is active every day!
- You will feel much comfortable knowing that some where in the camp sits a special life-saving group that consists of a skilled high attitude guides who are ready to help you anytime and everywhere. In this situation the most important is not to forget to register in the book of leaving. For this you will be given a special certificate after return.
- The most important on the mountain is a normal, hot and a 3 times- a -day food. Our camp guarantees you 2 hot meals, 2 vegetable salads, fruit dessert, tea or coffee (on your desire). Vegetarians we have done everything for your comfort as we have food for vegetarians and you can order everything you would like to we have fore seed everything. In the camp work just professional cooks who have worked in restaurants for more than 10 years.
- The camp provides you with a high-attitude equipment in lease(high attitude tents Red Fox and Terra Nova, ropes e.t.c.).
It is not everything.
You are missing house? In that case we have our satellite phone, internet, radio station providing you connection with Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent the Base camp near Peak Lenin and Khan-Tengri. Your batteries are out of charge? Do not worry you can recharge it. You have burned out the whole gas in your tear gas spray? Cheer up we will supply it for you. And also radio connection with camps, lease of equipments, high attitude porters, mountain guides… do you need something else?
The camp can accept till 120 people at once and it is active till the middle of July or till the end of August.
Photo of the tour «Communism Peak»:
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