Ascention to Khan-Tengry Peak and Lenin Peak

Two ascents to the 7000m summits in one season


Country of destination: Kyrgyzstan, Tian-Shan and Pamir mountains
Tour duration: 31 days / 30 nights
Tour itinerary, cities: Bishkek - Karkara - Base Camp South Inylchek - Karkara - Bishkek - Osh - Base Camp at Lenin peak

Khan-Tengry Peak and Lenin peak ascention

Khan-Tengry Peak (6995 m) - “the lord of the sky”, the most beautiful pyramidal peak of Tian Shan with amazing geometric symmetry, located on the border of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and China. The route to the Khan-Tengry Peak is technically difficult and physically challenging, it requires stable climbing techniques, high-altitude acclimatization and serious physical activity. In this expedition, we propose to climb Khan-Tengry from north to south (Kyrgyzstan): the ascent to the mountain will begin from the "Southern Inylchek" and ascent to the summit of Khan-Tengry.

Then, without leaving the territory of Kyrgyzstan, we will move to the Pamir, to another picturesque high-mountainous region to climb Lenin Peak (7134 m) from the north. After ascending Khan-Tengri, climbing Lenin Peak will be much easier, not only technically, but also due to the high-altitude acclimatization, the climbers will feel more comfortable at the height, which reduce the climbing time.

A double ascent to the summits of 7000m + in one season is a serious bid for the fulfillment of the “Snow Leopard” program. This expedition belongs to the category of extreme sport - high-altitude mountaineering, and is tailored for climbers who have experience in high-altitude climbing..

Program of the tour:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek.
Day 2 Drive to Karkara (460km). Accommodation in Base Camp “Karkara”.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Southern Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4 Familiarization with the territory the Khan Tengry Peak.
Day 5 Base Camp (4,000m) - Camp 1 (4,200m).
Day 6 Camp 1 (4,200m) - Camp 2 (5,300m).
Day 7 Camp 2 (5,300m) - Camp 3 (5,900m).
Day 8 Downhill to Base Camp (4,000m) along the path of uphill.
Day 9 Rest days.
Day 10 Rest days.
Day 11 Camp 1 (4,200m) - Camp 2 (5,200m).
Day 12 Camp 2 (5,200m) - Camp 3 (5,900m).
Day 13 Camp 3 (5,900m) - Camp 4 (6,400m).
Day 14 Uphill to the top of the Peak Khan-Tengri (6.995m). Downhill to Camp 3 (5,900m).
Day 15 Downhill to Base Camp (4,000m) "Southern Inylchek".
Day 16 Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 17 Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 18 Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 19 Helicopter flight to Karkara and further on by road to Bishkek.
Day 20 Airlight Bishkek - Osh. Transfer to Base Camp (3600 m) under the Lenin peak (280km, 5h).
Day 21 Rest day.
Day 22 Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Day 23 Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 24 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Day 25 Ascent to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m) and Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Day 26 Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Day 27 Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).
Day 28 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 29 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 30 Drive from Base Camp to Osh.
Day 31 Departure from Osh.

The cost of the tour includes:

  • Meeting/seeing off at the airports;
  • All transfers according the program;
  • Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “South Inylchek” and back with baggage (weight of baggage transportation is unlimited);
  • Air flight Bishkek - Osh (luggage upon 15 kg is for free; for additional luggage extra pay is taken);
  • Accommodation in hotels (double-room accommodation) with breakfast:
    • Bishkek (2 nights);
    • Osh (1 night);
  • Accommodation in Karkara base camp with full board;
  • Lunch boxes during transfer Bishkek - Karkara;
  • Lunch boxes during transfer Osh - Base camp - Osh;
  • All needed documents arrangement (permit to the border zone);
  • OVIR registration;
  • Fixed sets of altitude products for the time of ascents at Khan-Tengri and Lenin peak;
  • High mountain guide’s service for all period of active part (Khan-Tengri peak - up to 12 days and Lenin peak - up to 7 days):
    • 2-3 members - 1 guide;
    • 4-6 members - 2 guides;
    • 7-9 members - 3 guides;
  • Installed tents at Khan-Tengri high-altitude camps (3 pax in 1 tent!);
  • Installed tents at Lenin peak high-altitude camps of 5300m and 6100m;
  • Equipment for free rental for the period of ascent to Khan-Tengri:
    • Main rope ∅ 9 ÷ 10 mm;;
    • Gas cans 230 (3 pieces for 1 person);
    • Gas burner;;
    • Shared tinware for cooking at intermediate high mountain camps;
    • Portable radio station;
  • Equipment for free rental for the period of ascent at Lenin peak (against a deposit) :
    • Gas burner;
    • Gas cans 230 (3 pieces for 1 person);
    • Sleeping pad;
    • Main rope ∅ 9 ÷ 11 mm;
    • Avalanche shovel;
    • Portable radio station;
    • Shared tinware for cooking at intermediate high mountain camps;
  • Services in Base Camps both at Khan-Tengri and Lenin peak:
    • Accommodation in camping tents per 1-2 members;
    • Meals: Full board (3 times hot meals made by professional cookers);
    • Medical services;
    • Consultation concerning the route.
    • Electricity 220 В; 50 Hz;
    • Rescue party registration;
    • Using washstand and toilet;
    • Free usage of hot shower and sauna at BC;
    • Using storage-yurt at BC and C1;

The cost of the tour doesn`t include:

  • Visa invitations and visa fees;
  • Medical expenses and insurance;
  • ICE fees (rescue team working, helicopter flights, medicines and medical service in Osh hospital, drawing of supporting documents, repatriation);
  • International airfare.
  • Services of rebooking hotels and air tickets for domestic flights.

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