Lenin Peak. Following the last season Lenin Peak 2007

 

People devoted to mountains tend to “leave their hearts” in different mountains - some in the Fan Mountains, others in Himalayas. Every such person has a favourite Mountain of one’s own - the mountain that stays in one’s heart, the mountain that draws it like a magnet and shines in one’s memory brighter than others. My own “magnet” is seem to be “buried” somewhere in the Onion Glade at the foot of Peak Lenin. The magnet must be huge and very strong as every year, at the same time my mind and than my feet invariably bring me back there to the magic peak. Really, it is true when people say: “a foolish head does not leave one’s feet idle.” (I am joking)…

Indeed, the Peak Lenin’2007 season happened to be not of easiest ones. Well, who can say that any of the Peak Lenin seasons have ever gone easy? And this year’s season was not a simple one too. First surprise had been caused by Kyrgyz authorities who, just at the eve of the season, have forbidden any company of camping at the Onion Glade. First feeling about that decision was like: it is end of the world! But later developments showed: it was just a beginning of the end.

The point is that, due to its location, the original campsite at the Onion Glade (3,800m) was ideal for putting up base camps. The one who has visited there will never forget spectacular views opening up from the glade and one’s heart’s beating faster at the last turn, the dear turn, after which a “home, sweet home” - our dear Base Camp, always busy humming, - would appear in the night lights. Now all this has moved two kilometres northwards. And it is there now the new Base Camp lives its own live on the Edelweiss Glade (3,600m). The glade is not in the least worse than the previous one is, except it is located further away. There are not onions but mushrooms and, essentially, edelweisses that grow there on the glade. And there is lots more sun and lots less wind at the glade.

All in all, personnel and guests of the young Kyrgyz-Russian travel company “Pamir Expeditions” have soon accustomed to the new place and felt themselves quite comfortable there. The spot has a good scenery around: on one hand-side there is Peak Petrovskiy piercing the sky with its pointed top (excellent object for acclimatization ascents, by the way), on the other hand-side multicoloured red-green-brown hills stretch along and a cliff with rapid stream at the bottom of the canyon while, at the behind, there are clear-water lakes reflecting blueness of the sky and whiteness of the snow-covered mountain slopes and at the front - there it is: the Principal Mountain, Peak Lenin - a giant white massif that seems to obstruct the entire visible horizon. And there you are: then you immediately start thinking that everything else but the Mountain is insignificant and unimportant - so grandiose it is! No camera exists to capture and reflect whole deepness and charm of what human eye can see. Camera fixes only a picture but not a fraction of the inimitable high-spirit atmosphere that, for thousand of years, has always existed there in the very heart of Pamir…

The Pamir Expedition’s Base Camp (BC) is located now at 3,600m and is among those camps that mountaineers see first on their downhill from the Mountain. As you approach the BC, two flags (Russian and Kyrgyz), huge and bright, gradually emerge from behind of the multiple hills as are brand-new canary-yellow “semi-drum” tents - the only tents of the kind at the altitude - well seen not only from the track but from the top of the Mountain!

This year the BC’s infrastructure has undergone full renovation: new tents, new yurt, even new volleyball net have appeared - the fact that surely increased confidence and lessened worrying with guests about unruly might of mother-nature. And what a Russian “banya” (wet sauna) was available there! Such good banya can hardly be found even in well-developed major town, leaving alone whole Alay Valley! (Remark: I think Vladimir Demushkin of Moscow, who was among those first climbers on the top of Peak Lenin this year, could better than anybody else describe his impressions about the banya he had at 3,600m). First interim camp (Camp 1) has also had distinguishing features of its own. For the first time in the centuries-old history of “yurt architecture” a two-room yurt had been put up at 4,400m. The double-yurt module comprised a smaller room (lobby) and a big hall. Such peculiar architectural masterpiece had impressed even most versed pundits of architectural arts.

Other highlight of the season is that Peak Lenin is becoming a popular ski downhill destination. First ever group that arrived at the Edelweiss Glade this year happened to be a group of 17 mountain skiers from Slovenia. They managed to have a good and pleasant downhill from the altitude 5,300m and were very happy about themselves and the snow conditions on the slope. Positive statistics from previous years and this year’s achievements prove that mountain skiing has good prospects in this area.

Even more pleasing is the fact that Peak Lenin is becoming a “family holiday destination”, too. “Pamir Expeditions” positively view and actively encourage high-minded mountaineers who come to visit the area along with their family members. While father is conquering the transcendental summit his children are joyfully playing games in the fresh air and having easy and safe trekking in the environs of BC. Every one is happy! This year five Russians united under the jolly surname “Smeyuha” (“laughter” in Russian) have set such a good example. While father and companions were climbing, his wife and three children were happily spending their time by visiting round nearby lakes, picnicking, playing volleyball and games, which children are always so good to invent. In the future, “Pamir Expeditions” is planning to actively develop such family programmes so that more families could come here and enjoy their summer holiday together. Indeed, who can introduce children to mountains better than their parents can?

As far as weather is concerned, it has been, as always is the case, quite unpredictable. Unlike previous year when even Camp 1 had seen snowfall only for five times per season, this year we had seen a comeback of more “standard Pamir’s summer weather” - continuous snowing in the Camp 1, raining and winding in the BC, as it normally should be. This fact, compared with previous year, eventually reduced number of successful ascents. Still, the list of winners is quite impressive: 34 mountaineers from Russia, Uzbekistan, Ukraine, Iran, Germany, Austria, Turkey and France “hit the big time” at Peak Lenin.

Another interesting trend to mention is: this year interest to Peak Lenin with Russian and Ukrainian mountaineers has considerably grown. In the past, out of all participants only 10% were Russian-speakers the rest 90% being mountaineers from Western Europe. In 2007, the percentage has practically equalised: 50 - 50, and, to all appearances, Russian one will keep growing year on year, which is good. And, undoubtedly, most outstanding event, overshadowing the rest of the season’s peculiar events, is landing of biplane on the Edelweiss Glade. Enough to say that planes last landed there at Peak Lenin back in 1930s when Russian Soviet pilot Lipkin has made an emergency landing on the slopes of Peak Lenin. Ever since only helicopters flew in the area but never ever a single biplane! With a sinking heart, we were watching the plane’s virtuosic manoeuvring on landing and taking off. Three-four times past, the pilot seem to have mastered the stone-sown “runway”. It has been high-class and, softly speaking, absolutely bold and fearless action by pilot who had flown the “mastodon” plane of the Soviet times!

“Summer is kind of a small life” - as a Russian bard sang. This expression to a greater extent matches with the Pamir’s summer life. The short period of time spent there amidst grand, majestic mountains away off the rest of the world makes a person feel one’s life better and deeper, brings friends closer to or, conversely, far off each other. Every time the “small life” fetches different results. But what stays unchanged is a feeling that you must and will come back here again, because you want to.

Ekaterina Guz

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Photos of the «Ascension on Lenin Peak» tour:

Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) Going into the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan
Picnic on Travelers Pass (4150 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Kyrgyz children. Kyrgyz people Taldyk Pass (3615 m). Pamir Kyrgyz children. Kyrgyz people Kyrgyz man. Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan Base camp at night. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lipkin Rocks. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Yaks. Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan Going to the first camp (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Pamir mountain system. Kyrgyzstan The lake near the first camp (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) Sary-Tash village. Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan Kyzyl-Suu river valley. Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan Kyzyl-Suu river valley. Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) Paragliding near the base camp (3600 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View from Travelers pass (4150 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View from Petrovsky peak (4830m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Glacier of Lenin peak. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Near the summit of the peak Petrovsky (4830 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Ascent to the Travelers pass (4150 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Ascent to the camp 3 (6100m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The first camp (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall near the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The first camp (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The first camp (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The first camp (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m), Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View from the Camp 3. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Horses on the Lukovaya meadow. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View from Edelweiss glade to Lukovaya meadow and the Petrovsky peak. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Horse on the Lukovaya meadow. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View on Lukovaya meadow and Lenin Peak. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Transportation of goods from the Base Camp to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Chon-Alai valley. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The ascent to Lukovaya glade. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View on Lenin Peak and Travelers pass. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Walk on the lakes near the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Walk on the lakes near the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Way to Skovoroda. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Walk on the lakes near the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Walk on the lakes near the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Yurt camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Travelers pass (4150 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Yaks. Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan Baking bread in the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lipkin rocks. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Glacier. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Glacier. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Glacier. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 2 (5300m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Glacier of Lenin peak. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 3 (6100m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Glacier of Lenin peak. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 3 (6100m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The lake near the first camp (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Team of the Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Going to the first camp (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) The descent from the Travelers pass. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Rocks near Lukovaya meadow. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) 19th Party Conference Peak (5945 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 2 (5300m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Comprehensive Peak (5547 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 2 (5300m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The descent from the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View from the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Summit of the Lenin Peak (7134m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 3 (6100m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Skovoroda plateau. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Inside the yurt of Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Chon-Alai valley. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Yurts in the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) Cargo delivery to the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) View from Petrovsky peak (4830m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The summit of the Petrovsky peak (4830m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Presentation of certificates. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The summit of the Petrovsky peak (4830m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Delivery of goods to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) Marmots on the Lukovaya meadow. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Marmots on the Lukovaya meadow. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Flowers of Pamir. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Between the Camp 1 and the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Near the Camp 3. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Cake for climbers. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Volleyball ground at the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Edelweiss. Flowers of Pamir Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The descent from the height of 6400m. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The summit of the Petrovsky peak (4830m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Kyrgyz yurt Setting the tunduk on yurt Setting of the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Setting yurt at the base camp (3600 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View on 19th Party Conference Peak (5945 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The flags of Kyrgyzstan and Central Asia Travel company Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Sunset on Lenin Peak. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Summit of the Lenin Peak (7134m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Flowers of Pamir. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan View on Lenin Peak and Travelers Pass. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Spartak Peak (6183 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Presentation of certificates. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Glacier of Lenin peak. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Pamir mountain system. Kyrgyzstan Kitchen in the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Medical service at base camp (3600 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Dining yurt in the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Dining yurt in the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Chon-Alai valley. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Dessert. Board at the base camps of Lenin Peak. Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The first camp (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Summit of the Lenin Peak (7134m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base camp at night. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Cake for climbers. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Transportation of goods from the Base Camp to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Birthday greetings . The base camps of Lenin Peak Marmots on the Lukovaya meadow. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The path to the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Setting yurt at the Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Ascent to the first camp (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the Camp 1 and the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Avalanche. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Clouds and mountains. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 at night. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan The mountains in the moonlight. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Base Camp (3600m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Yurts in the Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Sunset on the Pamirs. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall near Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Between the Camp 1 and the Camp 2. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Sunset in the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Summit of the Lenin Peak (7134m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Sunset in the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Setting yurt at the Camp 1 (4400 m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan On the way to the Camp 1. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Pamir mountain system. Kyrgyzstan Cake for climbers. Board at the base camps of Lenin Peak Walk around the base camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Dawn in the Camp 1 (4400m). Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Lenin Peak (7134 m). Pamir, Kyrgyzstan Icefall between the first and the second camp. Lenin peak, Pamir, Kyrgyzstan

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Videos of the Lenin Peak tour:
Video about Lenin Peak, video about Base camps, video of ascension on Lenin Peak.

Pamir Experience 2016Pamir Experience 2016 Base Camp Surroundings (3600 M) On The Foot Of Lenin PeakBase Camp Surroundings
On The Foot Of Lenin Peak
Lenin PeakLenin Peak Slideshow Descent to the glacier’s crevasse. Lenin Peak
Descent to the glacier’s crevasse. Lenin Peak

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