Startling mountain massif with mysterious name «Fann mountains» situated between Zaravshan and Guissar ridges doesn’t stop attracting lovers of mountain adventures for several decades. It can be explained very easily – at its availability for travelers this region still keeps status of one of the beautiful mountain regions of Pamiro-Alay. Exactly here most clear and unbelievably wonderful lakes are fringed with highest sharp rocky peaks which don’t take off their snowy crowns during long time. Exactly here almost moon’s landscapes are enlivened with tangles of juniper’s trunks twisted by some strange powers of wind and sun into improbable figures… Exactly here above Mutny («turbid») lakes - water is really turbid there – amazing peaks with names Energia and Chimtarga are rising… Exactly here mystic silence reigns, and new mystery opens after every new turn of the path… And exactly here many people find to one"s own cheek answers innermost questions of being…

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Detailed tour description:

Day 1. Arrive in Tashkent. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel. The rest of the day at leisure.
Depending on time of arrival, you will have whole day or several hours for exploring of Tashkent – capital of the Republic of Uzbekistan. You will be surprised to find that 2000-year old Tashkent has little of its original ancient architecture to justify its decent age (except few monuments of 15-16c AD and ancient site “Ming-Uruk” – the remains of adobe brick fortress, which is regarded as most ancient part of Tashkent). This Central Asia’s largest city (2.6 million population) exemplifies typical Soviet style of town planning: wide streets (two way traffic, each way three to four lane-wide), spacious squares, extensive verdure zones and multiple fountains.  Contemporary Old Town started grow in 9c AD from what is known as former “Shahristan” - triangle the of Chor-Su Square, Hadra Square and Eski Juva Suare, - has preserved some of its medieval monuments: Kukeldash Medressa (XVI), Barak Khan Medressa (XVI), Abul Kasim Medressa (XIX), Kaffal Shahi Mausoleum (XVI), Yuhnus Khan Mausoleum (XVI) and Sheikh Havendi Tahur Mausoleum (XV). Among highlights of old Tashkent is world’s only original copy of Koran of 7c AD. The book hand-written on velum in archaic Kufi script by behest of caliph Othman was, allegedly, looted by Tamerlane after his conquering of Baghdad in 1402.
Highly recommended is a trip in Tashkent metro – certainly an architectural achievement of the city’s Soviet period and one of the CIS countries’ (former USSR) best structures of the kind.
The Museum of Fine Arts presents rich and diverse collection of traditional Uzbek silks, gold embroidery, wood carving and ceramic items and even a display of Buddhist statues of Kushan period (1-3 cc AD) bearing traits of Hellenic cultural influence. Concise display of similar items and artefacts can be found in the Museum of Applied Arts.
Uzbek cuisine deserves appraisal for its unbeatable scent, taste and look. “Plov” (meat, carrots, onions and stewed rice in vegetable oil), various “shashlyks” (meat roasted on skewer) and especially “non” (round flat bread) are reasonably cheap, tasty and found everywhere in town. Traveller is recommended to have a substantial reserve of hard currency in cash. That saves time as encashing of travellers’ cheques and credit cards may be time consuming. Best place for changing of your USD in Uzbek Sums (local currency) is TSUM (central department store in downtown) but be prepared to queue up at the exchange office.

Day 2. Drive to Samarkand (350km, 5-6hrs). Hotel.
By car/coach we drive to Samarkand. We are travelling across flourishing Tashkent oasis amidst cotton and wheat fields. One hour past (60km) we cross over Syrdaria River – Central Asia’s first long and second deep river known in the ancient times as Yaksart and in medieval – as Sayhoon. On the other side of Syrdaria lies extensive steppe-land turned in man-maid oasis crossed in dozens of larger and smaller canals - former “Starving Steppe” that has seen, back in 1950-1980s, a boom of irrigation  construction inspired by Soviets aimed to boost Uzbek cotton production, to which Aral Sea eventually fell prey in 1990s. We lunch on the way in a side-road cafe in the open where we sit under the shady plain trees and taste traditional Uzbek food – “shurpah” (soup) or “plov” (traditionally served in enormous quantities!) followed by traditional Uzbek green tea. Past Jizzak the road winds into the gorge cut through Turkestan Ridge of mountains by Sangzar River. We photo stop at so called “Tamerlane Gateway” – a bottleneck of the gorge and a shortcut connecting Sogdiana (Samarkand-Bukhara region) to Chach  (Tashkent region) and Parkana (Fergana Valley). For thousands of years this “Gateway” has been travelled by merchants, preachers and armies of Alexander of Macedon as well as hordes of Genghis Khan and troops of Tamerlane and Russian Tsar. The mountains there are rich in precious metals, turquoise and other minerals.  And the vast plains we drive across are rich in fertile soil good for cultivation of rich diversity of delicious fruits and vegetables. Samarkand region is historically famous for that well beyond the limits of Uzbekistan. Increasing density of built area along the highway informs that Samarkand is near. We cross over Zerafshan River (third largest river of Central Asia) on the bridge and soon arrive in Samarkand – Uzbekistan’s second largest city, former capital of Tamerlane’s empire of 15th c AD and former first capital of Soviet Uzbekistan. While the bus is entering the city the eyes are caught by huge domes and enormous portals of Bibi Khanim Mosque – the masterpiece of Tamerlane’s architecture and a distinct landmark of Samarkand’s the old town. We check in and are accommodated with one of the private-owned B&Bs (Zarina or Malika). The view of sunset we catch up with at the Registan Square is second to none…

Day 3. Drive to Pendjikent (60km; 1,5 hrs) and further to Artuch base camp (2200m; +1400m; 70km; 3.5hrs).
We drive by car/coach to Uzbek-Tajik border where we bordercross on foot while local porters carry our luggage through. Emigration and customs formalities may take long - at least one hour – so, be patient. We are met by our Tajik partners helping us through and we take their truck/minivan/bus on the other side. We carry on amidst tobacco, wheat, corn field and orchards along of Zerafshan River valley to town Pendjikent (40,000 population). There we buy trekking permits and pay ecology fee.  We lunch in a cafe in Pendjikent. Time permitting, we may opt to visit sights of interest in Pendjikent: bazaar, small but representative museum (Museum of Local Lore and Rudaki Museim) and archaeological site of ancient Sogdian Pendjikent (3-8 cc AD).  We change for 4WD truck in Pendjikent. From here the valley narrows and the scenery becomes more dramatic as the river cuts between Turkestan (right orographic) and Zerafshan (left) ranges. Just before the road crosses over Zerafshan River (village Shurcha) we turn right to continue along Pandjrud River to stationary mountaineers’ base camp (BC) "Artuch" (2200m,) wooden chalets and cottages of which are set amidst wide expanse of juniper woods. On the way we see Mausoleum of Abu Abdulla Rudaki – famous Persian-Tadjik poet of the 9-10cc AD (Pandjrud is his mother village).  We meet with our trekking guide, cook and porters in Artuch BC. Remaining of the day we have a chance to spend for acclimatisation walk to nearby Chukurak Lake. Accommodation in 2-room cottages (no water in rooms, pit toilet outside). As extra – shower and/or sauna.

Day 4. Start of active part. To Kulikalon Lakes (10km; max. +700m; 5hrs).
Well-trodden trail takes us up Urjam River valley through mixed juniper and deciduous groves covering two giant scree dams steeply rising up the right-hand side of the tight gorge. The dams serve as natural filter making water in the stream absolutely transparent. Local Tadjik children, so far, are not spoiled by visitors and do not bag for souvenirs. But they surely would appreciate some of your candies, and their mothers – some of your medications. Nanny goat’s milk here is like a honey - fantastically tasty and, due to alpine-herb diet in the nanny goat’s menu, causes curing effect on organism.  Tadjik adults drive donkey-loads of firewood down valley to village – unique relict junipers are chopped everyday every year in dozens paying their tall for Tadjik independence and poverty… In 2-3 hours the track levels and we top the upper dam, on the other side of which is turquoise necklace of Kulikalon Lakes (numbering 14) framed in jagged ridges and summits over 4000m-5000m: Maria (4970m), Mirali (5120m), Rudaki (4900m), Adamtash (4700m) (the four peaks making so called “Kulikalon Wall”), Saryshah (4650m) and Aurondag (4573m). We picnic-lunch on the Grand Lake shore under the shade of a juniper tree. Then we resume going on the right-hand side of the valley making a shortcut on the trail running straight across the juniper forest keeping the lakes on our left, or we take on the other trail winding amidst the lakes (a longer option allows seeing more of the lakes) heading to our camp set on the eastern shore of the Bibidjanat Lake (2,700m) or Dushokha Lake (2,900m). First overnight in tents. Do not miss last moments of the sunset to view the top of Mirali Peak fantastically coloured in red and rose...

Day 5. Easy walking in the region of Kulikalon lakes (8-9km; +/-200m; 4-5hrs).
This day those opted for more active pastime will spend whole morning and part afternoon to wandering amongst azure lakes, enjoying views of magnificent Kulikalon Wall and, possibly, reaching the snout of glacier at the foot of Mirali Peak. We can visit round the lakes: Lobnor Lake, Kuliob Lake and half a dozen of other smaller lakes. We take a chance of meeting with hospitable and friendly Tadjik herders and their families at their “kappas” (make-shift carcass huts covered in tarpaulin) sharing tea, ewe-milk yogurt, home-made bread with them, listening to Tajik songs and dances, watching them milking their seep and nanny goats. All this certainly makes us better prepared for tomorrow’s ascent and considerably improves our appetite. At the dinner tonight we shall see how good our chef is…

Day 6. Trek over Alauddin Pass to Alauddin Lake (7km; +max. 950m; - 740m; 6hrs).
This day we steeply uphill out of juniper forest and pasture through alpine meadows to Alauddin Pass (3,860m). On the way up we see vultures and eagles hovering in the blue sky. We enjoy a bird-eye view of Dushaha Lake and the entire Kulikalon Lake system. From the stony pass saddle impressive views eastwards to Chapdara River valley open up. Left to right, we see snow-&-ice-clad Chapdara Peak (5,050 m), Bodhona Peak (5,138m) and Zamok Peak (5070m), a clear-cut pyramid of Kaznok Peak (4200m) and a “bowing head” of Adamtash Peak (4700m). Down in the valley bottom we see a blue speck of Alauddin Lake (in fact, one of two major lakes) varying in colour from lilac to deep turquoise and providing a stunning contrast against the backdrop of the Chimtarga wall. We picnic on the green grassy spot 200m below the saddle near a spring. A steep rocky descent brings us (in 2-3 hours) to our campsite on the glade near the river flowing out of the Alauddin Lake (2,900m). Easy afternoon walk around the lakes is followed by relaxation in tent and more than welcomed dinner. Sweet Tadjik song by our donkey men soothingly fills the air…

Day 7. Ascend to Mutnoje Lake (8 km; + 750m; 4-5 hrs). Camp on the lake shore. (3,600m).
We steadily climb up not wide and rather short U-shaped Alaudding River valley. It is surprisingly calm out there. We hear no stone rumbling in the river as there is no river is sight: water is hidden under the three giant dams/steps (ancient moraines) stretching across the valley and obstructing the way. We only hear as wind is rustling and Ulars (Himalaian Snowcocks) waffling there up scree slope under the sheer high rocky valley sides. Towering peaks are looming over us. During the day we enjoy views of Kaznok Peak (4200m), Zamok Peak (5070m), Cherny Peak (5010m), Paygambar Peak (4800m), Energiya Peak (5105m) and dominant Chimtarga Peak (5487m). Sever arctic zone climate conditions, overhanging glaciers, gigantic steep moraines, ice-polished valley sides are the reality of this area. On the way one can see natural phenomena: a rarefied birch grove and a small "Piala Lake" named for its round-shape bottom. Late lunch on the Mutnoje Lake shore. Camp on the wide dam top of the lake amongst big boulders scattered everywhere. Most ambitious travellers then may opt for a round walking trip up left-hand side moraine to Kaznok Pass (400m) for a breathtaking panoramic view (+400m; 3km; 4hrs) (or as far as they can reach) while others may prefer to have a walk around the lake or just relax. As sun sets the owners of down stuff (jackets, pants and sleeping bags), at last, can give it a check and appreciate warmth and comfortablility of the gear. As water in the lake is reach in suspended clay particles, it is recommended that travellers avoid drinking raw water (boiled water or tea only). Dimox is proved to be good against altitude sickness and guarantees a good sleep.

Day 8. Ascend towards “Camp 4500m” under Chimtarga Pass (5km;+900m; 6hrs).
Early wake up gives us rear opportunity of seeing/photographing of surrounding mountains mirror-reflected in the lake... The day is going to be, perhaps, most strenuous and challenging of the entire trek. First we bypass the lake on the right and cross over a stream running down from Chimtarga glacier. The trail takes us straight up to a big white boulder from where we carry on along the glacier. The glacier is notched in small channels carrying water and stones down to bigger streams giving birth to a river.  We ascend along the level easy surface of the glacier until the slope steepened. Then we “storm” the extensive and steep scree slope on the zigzag. Having got to the top, we find some nice level spots among big boulders good for camping at 4500m. Zeravshanskiy Range and Gissarskiy Ranges converge here giving astounding panoramic views and feel of the whole Fan mountain highland in the rays of the setting sun – as our reward for the hard day. Some persons prone to hypertension may feel altitude sickness tonight.

Day 9. Trek over Chimtarga Pass to Zindan Valley and to Bolshoye Allo Lake (8km; +240m; - 1840m; 8hrs).
The 4,740 m-high Chimtarga Pass is reached within one hour of walking along the simple scree trail. The uppermost bit of 50-60m may, for security reasons, require fixed roping on the snow - depending on general weather conditions of the year. From the top of the area’s highest pass we see magnificent Fan mountains’ peaks: Bolshaya (Big) Ganza (5,308m), Malaya (Small) Ganza (4,956m), Energiya Peak (5,105m), Moskva Peak (5,046m) and others. Undoubtedly, most of us feel these moments as a climax of the trek. Descend on the skidding rocky scree underneath the cliffy belt sloping on the right hand side of the valley down to its bottom where Zindon River runs. Mind the ice underlining the 20cm-thick scree! After lunch on the green spot near the stream we further downhill on the good trail to Bolshoje Allo Lake through picturesque sheer-sided valley. Camp on the lake shore (3,140m). Bolshoje Allo Lake is a real wonder of Fan Mountains and surely one of the most beautiful alpine lakes of the region. The lake owes its origin to the gigantic landslide happened in 1916. The path on the downstream side of the dam leads to the enclosed valley of Zindon river (literally meaning "prison" due to extremely tight and narrow gorge sides “imprisoning” water that  disappears underground).

Day 10. Rest day.
Day free for respite, or swimming, or round walking tour up valley to the small Verkhneje (Upper) Allo Lake and big waterfall (3kms; +300m; 3-4hrs). On the way we view the Moskva Peak (5,046m) and neighbouring peaks and glaciers.

Day 11. Descend to Amshut River (10km; -1200m; 6hrs).
Downhill along the “imprisoned” (underground) Zindon River valley to the confluence with Amshut River. Past bottleneck, we see interesting natural phenomenon: a water stream rushing out (as if it’s “freed”) from under the giant rocky dam to the surface. We introduce ourselves to simple life of Tadjik shepherds, taste their traditional "airan" (kind of yogurt), "round bread" and aroma tea. Last overnight in the mountains is marked with a campfire and deservingly lavish dinner. Camp at 1,800m.

Day 12. Drive to Samarkand via Pendjikent (130km; 5 hrs) by truck and by coach. Hotel at Samarkand. PM at leisure.
Easy downhill to confluence of Amshut River and Archamaidan River takes us 1 hour to go. Then we carry on to and over the bridge where are met by the truck. The rest of the procedures goes in the reverse sequences: Pendjikent, bordercrossing, coach and Samarkand.

Day 13. Full day in Samarkand.
Optional sightseeing to explore the city and its environs. A travellers may have seen architectural monuments of medieval Samarkand such as Registan Square Ensamble (15-17ccAD), Gur Emir Mausoleum (grave of Tamerlane, 15c AD), Bibi Khanym Grand Mosque (14c AD) built by Tamerlane, Shahi-Zinda Ensemble of Tamerale’s dynasty Mausoleums (14c AD), ruins of  astronomic observatory built by Ulughbek, the grandson of Tamerlane’s (15c AD), and others, or take a nice time in one of the many traditional Uzbek or European restaurants or cafes in town’s green park and around Siyob bazaar.

Day 14. Drive Samarkand - Tashkent (340km; 5 hrs). Hotel in Tashkent.

Day 15. Transfer to airport and departure.

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