Times of Alexander Macedonian, mongolian conquerors, Tamerlan, Asian thinkers, philosophers and theologians are in the remote past. Some of them brought not only destruction but contributed a lot to this blessed land. What has been preserved to the present day seems to be sublime indeed. We have whole ancient cities. Majestic palaces and mosques make us fancy former power of central Asia states and empires while bazaars take human into very heart of oriental life, letting feel the spirit of Orient. Tens of thousands of people long for attending these places in order to touch the living history draw in great lungful of its air. Khiva, Urgench, Khorezm, Bukhara and sure Samarkand, which is called Rome of Orient due to its dazzling beauty and being peer of Eternal city. You can talk about these for hours, bringing on plenty of recollections and emotions. However there are monuments in Asia which cannot be described with words, their beauty and greatness couldn’t be created by human but God only. Created million years ago, they are felt to specially serve for showing original nature to man and giving him opportunity to be its part at least for a while. Of course all this was said about mountains. This place always attracts romantics, awakes ineradicable affection of people having known mountains closer. But the loftier they rise the stronger affection to them becomes. Pamir (Roof of the World ) and Tien-Shan (Celestial mountains) are two highest mountain systems of the world, which lie in Central Asia; giants such as Peak of Communism, Pobeda Peak, Lenin Peak, Korjenevskaya Peak and Khan-Tengri flourish in their snowy gardens. Only names of these mountains, not to mention their look, having undergone the time and having absorbed by mind of climbers make heart of each one beat faster. Each climber craves for ascents to these five giants and your obedient servant is not exception. Dream like an avalanche: arises-falls, begins to capture mind-gets faster and more powerful, turns into life – ends up in some final spot. The stronger man believes in his dream the more probability of its accomplishing is. Having seen photo of the Lenin Peak in the childhood I had always dreamt to make ascent to this summit also, and finally I did it. It was first mountain over 7,000 meters high in my life. To say I was fascinated by the seen and experienced is to say nothing. Each ascent dents somehow, imprints in the heart and human’s memory but as to my climbing to the Lenin Peak it seems that I remember not only each minute , each instant but I retain the feelings themselves experienced on this mountain. Routs to the Lenin Peak are reckoned not to be technically difficult, however this mountain is “ indicator” showing to climber whether he is ready or able to high mountaineering in principle. I’d like to remark on it to be indicator only in quotes, subject to auspicious weather and proper fitness of climber otherwise this mountain may turn into last refuge for the one. How many human lives were only carried off by tragedy of 1990.
After Lenin Peak I couldn’t agree with an idea itself that it was first and last my ascent to mountains over 7,000 meters high. Being at the Onion glade, I told myself that Korjenevskaya and Communism Peak would be next year. My words came true.
The Moskvin glade can be called the Heart of the Pamir indeed, because you know peak of Communism( Ismoili Somoni at present) is high –altitude pole of the all post soviet area and it lies there. At the glade you realize Roof of the world to be about, this whole place is sown with dazzling mountains over 6,000 meters high piercing blue of the beautiful Pamir sky by their apexes. Of course, local principal ranges of Academy of Sciences and Peter the Great differ from Zaalaiski one. First of all this difference comes down to mountains of these ranges are attributed to combined type, it means that you should be much better technically trained apart from fitness. It came to pass that 2008 didn’t turn out to be year of mass ascents to Communism Peak in view of some not quite objective reasons as I found them. And our team had bad luck too- we climbed the Korjenevskaya Peak only. However the main is the fact that we still have a wish inside us consequently everything may come off so it’s to be continued…
I’d like to say further. How such expeditions were arranged and turned into life during the soviet period I don’t know because of the fact that I was child. Now there are firms which provide such service in Asia. I want to express my thanks to “Central Asia Travel” for discovering miraculous Asian world to all people, making possible touching it. Thanks to such persons like them international climbing camps are crowded with people it means that someone’s heart still beats at sight of these great mountains.
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