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Program of ascention to Lenin Peak 7134 m


The Lenin Peak (7,134 m) today is one of the most popular, easy of access and because of that most frequented peaks among 7,000m-odd summits of Pamir. It’s a common belief that the Lenin Peak is one of the easiest of the CIS’s four 7,000m-odd peaks to climb. To the certain extent that’s true but not in all. One should remember that the altitude over 7,000m makes the peak an object of high-altitude climbing. The route in itself is not a technically difficult one and normally is carried out by mountaineers climbing in a roped-up-pair manner. However, the success or failure of your expedition is often dependant on such treacherous factors as weather and pressing altitude. In order to succeed, a climber has to be of good physical conditions, have appropriate climbing gear and, of course, good acclimatization. Traditionally, expeditions access the Base Camp (BC) either from Tashkent (Uzbekistan) or Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan). But in case of a complex expedition aiming at more than one summit, for example: Muztag-Ata Peak + Lenin Peak, - it becomes expedient to access the BC from China driving down to the Alay Valley via “Irkeshtam” Pass.
Those who opt for access from Tashkent or Bishkek will depart to mountains from the town of Osh. Osh (also nicknamed as ‘The Southern Capital”) is the largest city of the South Kyrgyzstan where you will be met by very good-natured and hospitable people. It is a city of busy green streets, dozens of cozy cafes and restaurants in the open air, a colourful oriental bazaar and the “Tahti Sulayman” (Solomon Throne Mountain) as main attraction. This mountain raises straight up in the middle of the town and looks spectacular against the backdrop of the town’s loud-voiced life reminding us of immediate proximity to the majestic mountains of Pamir-Alay – the “Roof of the World” as it is nicknamed. In Osh you can buy some foodstuff for your expedition such as vegetables, canned fish and pasta/noodles, but we suggest that you bring all your high-altitude foodstuff (especially sublimated food) with you as you will not be able to find any of those in Osh.
From Osh to the Base Camp of the Lenin Peak we drive along the Grand Pamir Tract along the route better known as the “Great Silk Road”, which Chinese-make silks were carried along to Europe in the olden times. Approximately halfway of the goal you will be having a good lunch in a yurt camp lost amidst the giant mountains. Then you carry on to the Sary Tash Village where from a stunning view of the huge Zaalayskiy Range of Mountains opens up the view to the mountain country of Pamir. Then having crossed over the boisterous Kyzyl - Suu River and the vast Alay Valley you, at last, arrive in the Base Camp. The “Lenin Peak” Base Camp is favourably positioned in the green alpine zone on the picturesque glade – the "Edelweiss Glade" - in the area of Achik-Tash at the altitude of 3,600m above sea level. The BC’s location allows mountaineers good rest and recovery after high-altitude acclimatization ascents – the tactics that makes you chances to get to the top of the summit of the Lenin Peak much higher.

The program offers two ways of getting to base camp:

1. Via Bishkek (capital city of Kyrgyzstan). Flying Bishkek to Osh (note that your luggage allowance is 15 kilogrammes and overweight is paid EUR 0.5 per every extra kilo).
2. Via Tashkent (capital city of Uzbekistan). 6-7 hours drive Tashkent to Osh across the picturesque “Kamchik” Pass and further on along the drown-in-verdure Fergana Valley (travelling by road is cheaper and also provides an opportunity, after the main programme is over, of visiting world-famous historical cities - Samarkand and Bukhara).


Program of the tour for the ascent to the Lenin Peak:

Day 1 Arrive in Tashkent / Bishkek.
Day 2 Drive / fly to Osh. - Drive Tashkent – Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).
Day 3 Drive from Osh to the «Edelweiss Glade» Base Camp (3600 m).
Day 4 Get acquainted with the area. Prepare yourself for ascent.
Day 5 Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m).The ascend to the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1,5 to 2,5 hours – depending on physical conditions of participants. Total ascent time is about 3-4,5 hours.
Day 6

Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Day 7 Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Day 8 Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Day 9 Descend to the Base camp (3600 m).
Day 10 Rest-day.
Day 11 Rest-day.
Day 12 Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m). Along the well-known path get to the Camp and meet with its inhabitants, visit the yurt...
Day 13 Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 14 Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Day 15 Ascend to the top of the Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descend to Camp 3 (6100 m): Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is already waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that then flattens out into so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) – be twice as careful on this “knife” stretch!
Day 16 Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Day 17 Descend to Base Camp (3600 m).
Day 18 Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 19 Drive from Base Camp “Lenin Peak” to Osh.
Day 20 Drive from Osh to Tashkent or fly from Osh to Bishkek.
Day 21 Departure from Tashkent or Bishkek.

The cost of the tour for the Lenin Peak expedition:

Bishkek - Bishkek

850 EURO

Tashkent - Tashkent

850 EURO

Osh - Osh

700 EURO


* Note: The flexible system of discounts is specified for the groups!!!

The cost of the Lenin Peak expedition includes:

meeting/seeing off at the airport;
all transfers according to the program;
domestic flights (Bishkek – Osh - Bishkek);
accommodation at hotels 2* breakfast included in Tashkent, Bishkek and Osh;
permits and registrations (registration with local authorities, a permit to frontier zone);
meals on the way from Osh to Lenin Peak Base Camp and to back Osh;
services at Base Camp (3,600 m) and Camp 1 (4,400 m) of the Lenin Peak:
- accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Lenin Peak Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, bed clothes and “kurpachas” (national-style mattresses) and electric lighting);
- full boarding (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
- yurts used as a heated mess-room (done in traditional Kyrgyz style) in BC (3,600 m) and in Camp 1 (4,400 m) good for resting, having meals and amusement (listening to music, viewing photos on computer, guitar playing etc.) at;
- toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC (3,600 m) and at Camp 1 (4,400 m);
- vapour bath (steam room) at BC (3,600m);
- medical services (by professional doctor-reanimatologist) in BC (3,600 m) and Camp 1 (4,400 m);
- electric supply 220 V; 50 HZ;
- high-altitude guide consultancy services;
- registration with rescue team.

* price-list for the additional services

The cost does not include:

visas;
services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.


The program of the ascent for the Lenin Peak is recommended as acclimatization program for the alpinist, intending make expeditions to the Himalayan and Tibet regions, with ascent to such famous summits as K-2, Everest, and Macalu etc.

Note: We can tailor the above Program to suit personal interests of clients.
••To allow timely processing of your documents and obtaining of Permit to Frontier Control Area and Registration with Ministry of Internal Affairs of Kyrgyzstan we need, no later than 3 weeks before your planned arrival, to have received a scanned copy of your passport or your passport details as follows: full name, date of birth, citizenship, passport number and planned dates of stay in Kyrgyzstan. Russian and CIS citizens do not need Kyrgyz visa but they must have their valid foreign passports available with them.

Photo of the tour:

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