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  • 9.09.08

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Pobeda Peak

MAPS | ARTICLES | PHOTO | MEDICAL CHEST | ADVICES | EQUIPMENT

 Pobeda Peak 7439 m.


Program

Pobeda (Victory) Peak (7439 m) - the highest summit crowning the snow-covered wall stretching for nearly 30 km. Along the Kokshaal-Tau ridge (Central Tien-Shan) the eternal ice line of which is coming up to the heights of 6,000 m. Yuzhny Inylchek glacier starts from both Khan-Tengri Peak and Pobeda Peak (20 km) considered one of the longest glaciers in the world, (it"s length exceeds 60 km.). Pobeda Peak is the northernmost seventhousander on Earth.



Tactics of ascent

The first mountaineers conquered in 1938 formerly unknown peak. There are some difficult routes to the top as follows: - on the centre of the northern slope; - on the eastern crest from Chon-Teren pass, and - along (most safe way) over the west Pobeda summit (also called Vazja Pshavela) from the Diky pass.



Base Camp

The Base Camp (BC) is set on moraine of the Yuzhny Inilchek Glacier at the foot of Trehglavaya Peak at the altitude of 4000 m above sea level. From the BC spectacular views open at the Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), Chapaev Peak (6971 m), Gorky Peak (6050 m) and others.



Historical background

In 1932 - the Ukraine expedition under the leadership of R.M.Demchenko discovers the unknown enormous nameless peak.In 1936 - Mountain climbers from Moscow under the leadership of E.Abalakov ascend Khan-Tengry and see another peak raised before their eyes in the clouds.





MAPS | ARTICLES | PHOTO | MEDICAL CHEST | ADVICES | EQUIPMENT