Pobeda Peak

 

Country of destination: Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan Mountains View the route map »»
Camps open 10.07 - 25.08.2023
Tour itinerary: Bishkek – Karkara – Base Camp "South Inylchek" (4000 m) – Karkara – Bishkek
Tour duration: 27 days / 26 nights

Pobeda Peak

Pobeda peak (Victory Peak) — 7439m — is the northernmost 7,000’er in the world, the highest point of the Tien Shan and Kyrgyzstan. Successful expedition to Pobeda peak – one of the five 7,000’ers in the CIS – grants climbers an honorary Title of Snow Leopard. Many adjacent to Pobeda peak mountains still remain unclimbed and are waiting for the pioneers.

The base camp of Pobeda peak (4000m) is set up on the Southern Inylchek Glacier right in the hearth of the Northern Tien Shan. It’s the location that allows to enjoy a magnificent scenery of Khan Tenrgi Peak and the Pobeda peak.

Pobeda peak is well known for its harsh nature and high level of climbing difficulty. Climbing routes to the Pobeda peak are classified as some of the most challenging ones in alpinism (grade 5-6). This can be attributed to a number of factors, such as the climate, northern location, sudden wind gusts, low temperatures, altitude, steep slopes, snowstorms… The more difficult and dangerous the peak is, the more prestigious the ascent will be. So, many professional alpinists challenge the Pobeda peak. The latest equipment, detailed maps, experienced guides, rescuers ready to help anytime — all these make the ascent to Pobeda peak less risky. No matter if just an attempt to conquer it, it is still the best way for strengthening the character and a truly challenging experience.

Preliminary dates helicopter flights 2023
(Schedule can be changed!):
Karkara BC
- South Inylchek BC
July 12, 13, 18, 19, 20, 21, 26, 27, 29, 30
August 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 21, 24
Program of the tour:
Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer and accommodation in the hotel.
Day 2 Transfer Bishkek - Karkara BC (460 km). Accommodation in Karkara BC.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to South Inylchek BC (4000 m asl).
Day 4 Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.
Day 5 Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.
Day 6 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 7 Ascent to Camp 2 (5100 m).
Day 8 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 9 Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 м).
Day 10 Descent to Camp 1.
Day 11 Descent to BC.
Day 12 Rest.
Day 13 Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 14 Ascent to Camp 2 (5100 m).
Day 15 Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 16 Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 m).
Day 17 Ascent to Camp 5 (6918 m).
Day 18 Ascent to the summit Pobeda peak 7439 and descend to Camp 5 (6918 m).
Day 19 Descend to Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 20 Descend to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 21 Descend to BC.
Day 22 Extra day in case of bad weather.
Day 23 Extra day in case of bad weather.
Day 24 Extra day in case of bad weather.
Day 25 Helicopter flight to Karkara BC. Transfer and accommodation in Bishkek.
Day 26 Free day in Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 27 Transfer to the airport and departure from Bishkek.
  • Full package
    - 2650 USD
  • Small package
    - 1550 USD
  • Visas / permits.
    Insurance. Route Map

  • Important information

 

The cost of the tour «Pobeda Peak» 2023:

Full package 2650 USD

The cost of full package includes:

  • Meeting and seeing off at the airport or the railway station;
  • All transfers according to the program;
  • Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Pobeda Peak” and back with baggage (weight of baggage transportation is unlimited);
  • Arranging necessary documents (registration in immigration policy and border permit)*;
  • Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast (2 nights);
  • Accommodation in Karkara BC (1 night);
  • Dinners during Bishkek - Karkara transfer;
  • Services in exchanging of air and railway tickets;
  • Services in Base Camp “Pobeda Peak” (4,000m):
    • accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring and mattresses);
    • ecological tax for staying on the territory of the camp.
    • meals on full board basis (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
    • shower, sauna, toilet, luggage room;
    • medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
    • electric supply (220 V; 50 HZ);
    • high-altitude guide consultancy services;
    • doctor consultancy services;
    • registration with rescue team;
    • usage of remote wireless;
    • rent of radio stations during the ascent (only for the group with more than 3 persons);

The cost does not include:

  • Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
  • Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
  • Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

Extra services:

  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 12 USD per tank;
  • International calls - 4 USD per minute;
  • Internet - 5 USD per hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.
  • Oxygen cylinders - 650 USDper cylinder (50 USD deposit, if you bring back an used cylinder);
  • Rent of mask and oxygen pressure reducer - 300 USD.

 

The cost of the tour «Pobeda Peak» 2023:

Small package 1550 USD

The cost of small package includes:

  • Helicopter flight to Base Camp and back with personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 5 USD per each extra kilo);
  • Consultation of local guide;
  • Consultation of doctor;
  • Registration with rescue team;
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • Rent of radio stations during the ascent (only for the group with more than 3 persons);
  • Frontier zone permit;
  • Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan.

Additional possibilities for the Small package in BC:

  • Transfer Bishkek - Karkara - 55 USD/per person (only empty seats in transport) - date of departure from Bishkek before the date of helicopter flight at 08:00-09:00
  • Accommodation and 3 meals a day in Karkara BC - 55 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
  • Accommodation in a pre-set tent and 3 meals a day in Yuzhniy (South) Inylchek BC - 70 USD / day /1 person;
  • Only accommodation in a pre-set tent in Yuzhniy / Severniy ( South / North) Inylchek BC - 15 USD /1 person.
  • Breakfast - 20 USD / 1 person;
  • Lunch - 25 USD / 1 person;
  • Dinner - 25 USD / 1 person;
  • Sauna - 20 USD / 1 person;

Extra services:

  • Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
  • Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 12 USD per tank;
  • International calls - 4 USD per minute;
  • International calls - 5 USD per hour;
  • Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person;
  • Oxygen cylinders - 650 USD (50 USD deposit, if you bring back an empty balloon);
  • Rent of mask and oxygen pressure reducer - 300 USD.

 

Visas, Permits

For issuing a frontier zone permit and for registration in the Ministry of Home Affairs’ authorities it is necessary (not later than 1 month before your arrival) to send us the following passport data: passport copy, or: your full name, date of birth, nationality, passport number, and planned period of your staying in Kyrgyzstan.

Under current rules visa-free stay within unlimited period on the territory of Kyrgyzstan is granted for the nationals of the following countries:

  • Armenia
  • Azerbaijan
  • Belorussia
  • Cuba
  • Georgia
  • Kazakhstan
  • Laos
  • Moldova
  • North Korea
  • Russia
  • Tajikistan
  • Vietnam

 

List of states granted visa-free stay up to 90 days: Mongolia, Ukraine

List of states granted visa-free stay up to 60 days

  • Australia
  • Austria
  • Andorra
  • Argentina
  • Brazil
  • Bahrain
  • Belgium
  • Bosnia and Herzegovina
  • Britain
  • Brunei Darussalam
  • Canada
  • Chile
  • Croatia
  • Czech Republic
  • Denmark
  • Estonia
  • Finland
  • France
  • Germany
  • Greece
  • Hungary
  • Iceland
  • Ireland
  • Italy
  • Japan
  • Kuwait
  • Latvia
  • Liechtenstein
  • Lithuania
  • Luxembourg
  • Malta
  • Monaco
  • Netherlands
  • New Zealand
  • Norway
  • Poland
  • Portugal
  • Qatar
  • Republic of Korea
  • Saudi Arabia
  • Singapore
  • Slovakia
  • Slovenia
  • Spain
  • Sweden
  • Switzerland
  • Turkey
  • United Arab Emirates
  • United States of America
  • Uzbekistan
  • Vatican

Visa-free access to Kyrgyzstan up to 30 days: Malaysia

** Note: The cost of the program includes climbing the both peaks: the Pobeda Peak and the Khan-Tengry Peak.

Insurance policies.
The insurance is compulsory and always advisable in case of unforeseen circumstances.
Common sense has to provide it in order to feel safety on a mountain, as the services of rescue team costs a lot.
We suggest total sum insured for your extreme mountaineering policy to be 30,000 USD per person per accident.
The most expensive part is usage of a helicopter.
We don’t arrange policy. It’s necessary to get it in your country before the expedition.

Requirements for insurance policy:

1) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30000
2) In the field "occupation" (or "sports practice") "Mountaineering" must be notified
3) As Country of stay - Kyrgyzstan
4) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan
5) The insurance policy must cover at least "first aid" and "transport of affected by helicopter if necessary" (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

Note:
Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.

Please remember: our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.

Route Map

Route Map

 

Tactic of ascention to Pobeda Peak

Scheme of expedition to Pobeda Peak

The first mountaineers conquered in 1938 formerly unknown peak. There are some difficult routes to the top as follows: - on the centre of the northern slope; - on the eastern crest from Chon-Teren pass, and - along (most safe way) over the west Pobeda summit (also called Vazja Pshavela) from the Diky pass.
Start from Zvesdochka glacier from icefall at 4,500 m, altitude difference about 3 km. Icefall and the northern ridge of West Pobeda (6,918 m), then long traverse of the western crest (4 km) at the altitude of 7,000 m.
During the day you should reach the summit and return to the West Pobeda snowcave camp.

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Personal and group equipment for expedition to the Pobeda Peak (7439 m)

  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
1 Track shoes pair 1 -
2 Shoes for the high attitude roads pair 1 -
3 Assault jacket GOR-TEX piece 1 -
4 Assault trousers GOR-TEX piece 1 -
5 Downy jacket piece 1 -
6 Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX piece 1 -
7 Downy sleeping bag piece 1 -
8 Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR piece 1 -
9 Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK piece 2 -
10 Mittens for the high attitude ascents pair 1 -
11 Gloves pair 2 -
12 Peaked worm cap or hat piece 1 -
13 Flasks - - -
14 Socks-POLAR pair 3 -
15 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre piece 1 -
16 Mat "KARIMAT" piece 1 -
17 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 piece 1 -
18 Clumps-right and left piece 1 -
19 Belay arrangement “figure of 8 knot” piece 1 -
20 Necking-belay system complete set 1 -
21 Carabin with muff piece 2-3 -
22 Snow shovel piece 1 -
23 Hygienic lip-stick piece 1 -
24 Solar control cream piece 1 -
25 Transport trunk piece 1 -
26 Pen knife piece 1 -
27 Crampons pair 1 -
28 Ice-axe piece 1 -
29 Snow goggles piece 1 -
30 Telescopic stick pair 1 -
31 Head torch piece 1 -
32 Rope (nylon) 25-30 m piece 1 -
33 Rocky hook, titanic complete set -
34 Mortgage components «Clamps» complete set 3 -
35 Mortgage components «Fredni» complete set 3 -
36 Ice hooks «bore for drilling ice», titanic piece 6 -
37 Snow anchors piece 2 -
38 Rocky hammer piece 1 -
39 Safety loops 5 i. piece 3 -
40 Protective helmet piece 1 -
41 Tent 2-3 m piece 1 for 2-3 person
42 Gas stove piece 1 for 2-3 person
43 Gas cylinder (230 ml.) piece 1 for 2-3 person
44 Dishes complete set 1 for 2-3 person
45 Radio station metric waves complete set 1 for 2-3 person
46 First-aid kit complete set 1 for 2-3 person

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Medical chest of the climbers

The list of medicaments that are used during the climbing to the Pobeda Peak 7439 m Quantity
Dekamevit (vitamins) pills
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) pills
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning on height) pills
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) pills
Nifidepine (edema of the lungs) pills
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) pills
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) inj. By 1 ml.
Dexamethasone pills
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) pills
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) pills
Trental (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml.
Riboksin (to improve one’s heart/liver function) pills
Ksantinola nicotine (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills,inj by 2ml.
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) pills
Furosemide (diuretic) pills
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) pills
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) inj. By 2 ml.
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) pills
Verospirone (diuretic) pills

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