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Program of ascension to Muztagh-Ata + Lenin Peak


Attention, please, - new opportunities! Muztagh-Ata Peak and Lenin Peak - two incredible Pamir 7000 meters-odd summits in one program!
Dear friends! For all of you, who disposes one spare month in summer season, enough strength and uncontrollable wish not to concentrate on one great summit in a season only, we would like to suggest a unique opportunity to take part in a program which unites both two 7000 meters - odd summits and all your outstanding dreams!

The advantages are obvious:
1) Having ascended the first summit (it is Pamir peak - Muztagh-Ata, which is located on the territory of China in a mountain massif of Kunlun to the north of the place where there meet three great mountain systems - Kunlun, Hindu Kush and Karakorum), you get a good acclimatization before climbing Lenin Peak; it will help you to reduce the amount of pre - stormed stages on Lenin Peak!
2) Relative territorial adjacency of Muztagh-Ata and Lenin Peaks simplifies to the maximum and reduces time period (just 1 day!) an intermediate stage for transfer!
3) Both summits are completely suitable for those, who want to make descent on skis from them - broad snowy fields and slopes, several areas where there are cracks and untouched virgin land, covered with the cleanest high - altitude snow!
4) Considerable saving of cash expenses, as the cost for transportation is just the same as for the expedition to one summit, but now you will be able to visit two of them!


Dates for combined groups to climb Muztagh-Ata + Lenin Peak in 2011:

Group
Start Date
Date of BC Muztagh-Ata - Kashgar
Date of Kashgar - BC Lenin Peak
Departure

Group №1

11.07 (Mon.)

31.07 (Sun.)

01.08 (Mon.)

14.08 (Sun.)


Program of the tour for the ascent to the Muztagh-Ata and Lenin Peak:

Day 1.
Transfer Bishkek - Balykchy - Naryn.
Arrival at Bishkek. Meeting at the airport. During your first travel day you will accomplish a transfer along the Bishkek - Balykchy - Naryn route. This part of the road passes by picturesque mountain landscapes, through beyond - the - clouds passes, along fast - flowing rivers and amazingly beautiful Kyrgyz lake Issyk-Kul. Upon arrival to Naryn you will be accommodated in a guest house or a yurt camp.
Day 2.
Crossing on Kyrgyz - Chinese border. Transfer to Kashgar.
Today Naryn - Torugart (Kyrgyz - Chinese border, 3752 m) transfer is planned for you early in the morning. The road passes through the At-Bashi valley, where quite often part of the landscape is the flocks of yaks. Besides, you way is passing along the scenic lake Chatyr-Kul (3500 m) and the mineral spring famous with its medicinal characteristics.
Transition to China via Kyrgyz - Chinese border point Torugart. Customs procedures. Transfer to Kashgar. Hotel check - in.
Day 3.
Drive Kashgar - Subashi (200 km, 4 - 5 hours).
Today active rest lovers and extreme seekers will be transferred from Kashgar to Subashi village along the Karakoram highway (approx. 200 km, 5 hrs.). Despite a long transfer time you won’t be bored as there are lots of things to look at: the route is quite beautiful as it passes through the narrow picturesque gorge of the Gez river.
In a while we will cross a conditional border where Kunlun and Pamir mountain systems are said to join.
Certainly, you will have meal while on the way. For lunch you will taste perfect Uyghur laghman and excellent “tandyr kabob” (which is shashlyk cooked in a closed national - type clay oven).
Upon arrival to Subashi you will be accommodated in either tents or yurts. Food: full boarding.
Day 4.
Trek Subashi (3600 m) - Muztagh Ata Base Camp (4450 m).
After early breakfast we head to Muztagh Ata Base Camp. Don’t worry that you have a lot of luggage of a considerable weight as you don’t have to transport it by yourself. At our starting point in Subashi you will be provided with camels to carry the luggage. So, don’t forget to take a picture of our “caravan” and then move forward. Passage from Subashi to the Base Camp with take approx. 4 hrs. The most suitable shoes for this part of the route are running shoes or light hiking boots as the route is quite simple and do not require any special physical preparation.
In 4 hours we will see Muztagh Ata Base Camp at last.
Base Camp is located on a quite wide picturesque glade under the moraine terrace not far from the starting point of the ascension route. In Muztagh Ata Base Camp you are guaranteed to have three hot meals a day - European and Chinese cuisine. There is electricity in the Camp; therefore, you will be able to charge your camera, video recorder and walkie - talkie there. Also there are shower tent and field - type toilets there.
The territory of the Base Camp has mobile phone network coverage, thus you will be able to connect to the world. However, there is no internet connection.
Connection between upper Camps and the Base Camp is carried out using walkie - talkies. The only thing you must remember - there is no possibility to rent either walkie - talkies, or gas - tanks and whatever else equipment you need in the Base Camp. Therefore, all issues concerning the rent of equipment and gas - tanks purchase have to be discussed and settled down beforehand, during the correspondence process.
Day 5.
Preparation to ascent.
Rest day in Muztagh Ata Base Camp.
Today you will be able to take a look at the location and acclimatize. We advice you to spent this day actively. For better acclimatization, acquaintance with the locals and their life style and possible purchase of quite tasty yak milk we advice you to go down to a small village seen from the Base Camp.
Day 6.
Ascent from Base Camp (4450 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m).
After some rest and passive acclimatization we are ready to ascent to Camp 3. In order to accomplish the ascent to the peak we have to use the system of 3 high - altitude camps.
So, let’s start! Today you will ascent from Muztagh Ata Base Camp (4450 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m). There is a good trail along the ridge of the rocky mountainside to ascent. Usually there is no snow at the mountainside (up to 5000 m), thus, it is possible to wear trekking shoes for this part of the route. Camp 1 is situated in a snowy zone open to winds, therefore, it would be better to dig the tents around and to put a snow wall around as well. It will prevent your tent from being damaged or blown away. Overnight in Camp 1 for better acclimatization.
Day 7.
Descent from Camp 1 (5350 m) back to the Base Camp (4450 m).
Day 8.
Ascent from Base Camp (4350 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m).
Along the familiar path we ascent from the Base Camp (4450 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m). Overnight in Camp 1.
Day 9.
Ascent from Camp 1 (5350 m) to Camp 2 (6200 m).
Today we are in for the ascent from Camp 1 (5200 m) to Camp 2 (6200 m). Distinctive feature of this part of the route is walking through the icefall. There are many visible and invisible crevasses in the icefall. They are usually well marked, but early in the season and after a fresh snow fall, be very careful. Sometimes there are quite steep snow and ice walls along the trail. We recommend you to take ascenders, snowshoes and crampons. Picturesque views of the valley and the Karakoram highway won’t leave anyone indifferent.
Day 10.
Descent from Camp 2 (6200 m) to the Base Camp (4450 m).
Day 11.
Day of rest. Base Camp.
This is a rest day. Today you can visit ancient city of Tashkurgan for a city - tour. It is a beautiful and colorful place. The city has got more than 3 thousand year long history. Distance from Muztagh Ata Base Camp to Tashkurgan is about 90 km. Another 10 km forward and you are in the valley of the hot mineral springs, where you can enjoy bathing in a natural “Jacuzzi”. This pleasure will cost you 80$ per person (for the group of no less than 4 people).
Day 12.
Ascent from Base Camp (4350 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m).
Day 13.
Ascent from Camp 1 (5350 m) to Camp 2 (6200 m).
Day 14.
Ascent from Camp 2 (6200 m) to Camp 3 (6800 m).
Day 15.
Storm of the summit from Camp 3 (6800 m) to the top of Muztag-Ata (7546 m) and get back to Camp 2 (6200 m).
Today you are about to accomplish the ascent to the peak, that is to reach the ultimate goal of you coming to Muztagh Ata! So, we have an early morning today as the peak is waiting for us! We start at 5 - 6 in the morning. The ascent to the peak is done through a wide and gentle snowy ridge. Here you will feel the altitude. And it’s a real luck that we didn’t forget to take with us our snowshoes and skis! And finally, here it is - the Peak! HURRAH!!!!!! The entire Kunlun is at your feet!!!!
The highest point - Muztagh Ata peak is a small “island” of black rocks; behind it steep slopes gradually go down to the north, towards the Koksel glacier.
Useful hint: if there is bad weather and low visibility don’t risk without a need. In the end good alpinist is alive one! Anyway, you can reach the peak on the other day.
Overnight in Camp 2.
Day 16.
Descent from Camp 2 (6800 m) to Base Camp (4450 m).
Day 17.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 18.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 19.
Track from Base Camp (4350 m) to Subashi. Drive from Subashi to Kashgar.
In the morning our drovers will organize you a camelcade, we’ll put the luggage onto the camels and start hiking In Subashi the transport is waiting for us to transfer us back to civilization towards evening. Then we’ll proceed to Kashgar, where we are accommodated at a cozy hotel.
Overnight at a hotel in Kashgar.
Day 20.
Drive Kashgar - Irkeshtam - Sarytash - Base Camp under Lenin peak.
Day 21 - 22.
Preparation to ascent.
Day 23.
Ascent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Along the well - known path get to the Camp and meet with its inhabitants, visit the yurt...
Day 24.
Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
The campsite is comfortable but not very big. So, you will have to reconcile yourself with close neighbours of yours - the multiple “companion - in - arms” who would have already camped there by the moment of your arrival.
Day 25.
Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Tomorrow is a crucial day of your whole expedition. Make sure that you have had if not a good sleep than at least a good respite. And contrive to have your breakfast next morning.
Day 26.
Ascent to the top of the Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descend to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Early start at 5 - 6 AM, the summit is already waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300 m - long stretch that then flattens out into so called “Nosh” (“knife” - a steep narrow ice ridge) - be twice as careful on this “knife” stretch! Then carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and further up to the summit.
There we are at the top! Hurray! The whole Pamir lies at your feet!
Take a photo for a keepsake, take a 20 - 30 - minute’s respite (subject to good weather) and set off to downhill along the same path towards the Camp 3.
A useful advice: in case of bad weather don’t take unnecessary risk. You know, good mountaineer is mountaineer alive! And a plateau at 6,900 is very deceptive…Descent as fast as possible!
Day 27.
Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Good dinner in a warm yurt - is a god bliss after such an ascent. And it waits for you there in the Camp 1! Successful return is a good excuse for you to have a drink or two with your companions this night. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for many mountain folks from different corners of the world getting together there - those who have just descended from the top and those ones who are about to start ascending. Surely, the place like that won’t make you bored. The warm yurt is very much conducive to the atmosphere of camaraderie... One may feel like a motto hanged at the yurt flap to read: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is only one “but” and a limitation - the time. The yurt is closed at 23:00 PM. The bloody superintendent then comes up to send all the folks out to their tents J as somebody is going to have an early start next morning.
Day 28.
Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).
Upon arrival have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your happy return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement, your dinner may include a nicely done young lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattresses) and having a nice slice of a just - cooked lamb. Then you will get a feel of a fine national culture of the nomadic people.
Day 29.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 30.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 31.
Drive to Osh. Overnight in hotel.
Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of nearly forgotten civilisation. Walk in town in the night for leisure.
Day 32.
Flight Osh - Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Accommodation in hotel.
Free time for walking around and buying souvenirs.
Day 33.
Departure.
That’s all. Full stop. All troubles are over. Tomorrow you will not have to stress your mind with detailing of your ascent plan, or hectically packing up your backpack, or exposing your body to the shrilling Pamir winds and gazing at the beautiful and luring summits. Tomorrow your usual routine begins. But even amidst your routine an absolutely new feeling will appear to stay with you and invariably bring you back to the events of the past summer. The feeling that whispers in your ears a line: “Listen, let us get back, we have left our friends there in the warm yurt …”

The cost of the tour in USD/per pax:
Pax
2
3
4
5+1
6+1
7+1
8+1
9+1
10+1
15+1
Bishkek - Bishkek
5525
4380
3770
3510
3060
2865
2815
2710
2625
2295

The cost includes:

Meeting and seeing off at the airports;
All transfers according to the program on comfortable transportation;
Issuing of all the necessary documents for the program:
- letters of invitation and visa support;
- registration in OVIR and border zone permit;
- ecological taxes;
- permit for ascending Muztag-Ata Peak.
Accommodation at the hotels 3* in double rooms in Bishkek, Naryn, Kashgar, Osh and Urumchi;
Air flight Urumchi - Kashgar (in the option of arriving via Urumchi);
Air flight Osh - Bishkek;
Meal during transfers and at Base camps;
Set of foods for assault days according Lenin peak program;
Camels’ services for carrying equipment on the route Subashi - Base Camp - Sibashi;
Escort guide services from “Pamir Expeditions” Company;
Mineral water during transfers;
- Services in Base camps:
- Accommodation in tents on the base of double sharing in Muztagh Ata Base Camp;
- Meals three times a day - European and Asian cuisine;
- Shower, WC, store tent;
- Medical service;
- Electricity (220 V, 50 Hz);
- Consultations with professional mountain guides;
- Rescue group registration;
- Use of a long distance radio connection.

* Price-list for the additional services Base Camp Muztagh Ata peak »»

* Price-list for the additional services Base camp Lenin peak »»


The cost does not include:

International airfare;
Medical insurance fee;
Cost for visas and visa supports;
Service of mountain guide and porters for ascents;
Set of food for assault days according Muztag-Ata peak program;
Rent of high altitude equipment for ascents.

* Insurance is an obligatory thing. It is needed for that unexpected accidental case, about which we usually try not to thing before departure. But the common sense should never leave our mind and take care of the insurance in order on the downhill you could feel really secured. Because, as you know, services of rescuers and transportation cost quite a lot. Insurance policy must be issued for a sum of 15.000 USD, not less. And you have to get it in your own country, before the expedition begins.

** To issue a permission for visiting border zone and for getting registration in the authorities of Ministry of Home Affairs, it is necessary to send us scanned copy of your passport (not later than one month before your arrival), or the following data:
- Full name;
- Passport number;
- Date and place of birth;
- Citizenship and place of residence;
- Planned dates of entry and departure.

After completion of your expedition to Muztagh-Ata Peak you have a unique opportunity to extend you travel to include world - famous cities of the Orient: Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and Osh. You can also opt for a few days of sunbathing on the sandy beech of the Issyk-Kul Lake. We would love to help you organise such extension tour tailored to your specific needs.

Photo of the tour «Muztagh-Ata Peak»:

see all photos of Muztagh-Ata Peak »»

Photo of the tour «Lenin Peak»

see all photos of Lenin peak »»

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