Tactic of ascention to Muztag-Ata Peak.
Organisationally, the ascent to the summit requires usage of three interim high-altitude camps.
Section 1: Uphill from BC (4350m) to the camp 1 (5350 m).
Uphill from BC on the steep stony slope to get to the glacier. In a certain while spine-shattering panoramic view opens up for you: pastures, hills and deserts afar, Karakol Lake – "purl of mountains" - and a snow-white massif of Kongur. On the stretch between BC and Camp 1 highly advisable is usage of pack animals. All loads above Camp 1 are transported by expedition members themselves – the factor acting in favour of earlier and full acclimatisation which, in turn, considerably improves your chances for successful ascension.
Section 2: Uphill from camp 1 (5350 m) to the camp 2 (6000 m).
From Camp 1 track gradually goes up on the snow-, partly ice-covered slope over and across multiple crevasses towards small levelling stretch of the glacier. This is most steep part of the entire route. White snow and ice around are in striking contrast with recent views of green and brown pastures below. The track then gradually takes to the small shelf on the glacier where Camp 2 (6,200m) is set. Perhaps, it would require you some shuttling between Camp 1(C-1) and Camp 2 (C-2,) for 2-3 times till you take all your gear up to the Camp 2. This “exercise” would perfect physical conditions of your body and simultaneously give excellent opportunity of ski down to the C-1 with your backpack light and nearly empty. On the top part of moraine you can organize the camp wherever you would like to. You should put attention to the level of acclimatization of the participants, quantity of their luggage and the medium speed of the ascent.
Section 3: Uphill from camp 2 (6200 m) to the camp 3 (6800 m).
The route runs by a simple but very steep, snowy fields. There is a big expanse for using skis and snowshoes in an ascent. But you should not forget about safety as there are a lot of clefts and you should use the safety engineering.
Section 4: Uphill from camp 3 (6800 m) to the Mustag-Ata peak (7546 m).
The path to the summit is quite straightforward. From altitude 6800 m till 7400 m the slope gradually levels becoming more and more flat. Then a short upswing follows and – there you are! –the rocky apex is seen. That is it – you are standing on the top of Muztag-Ata Peak (7546 m)! Congratulations! Have a look around and enjoy the view. The bottomless precipice to the east is the abrupt, sheer Eastern Face. Mind-boggling panorama in front of you shows endless plains of Central Asia, White mountain chain of the Kongur Range and highest peaks of Pamir. If the day is clear you may even see for famous Karakorum Range.
Do not stay on the summit for long as time flies and the sun may start setting or weather changing before you get back to C-3.