Peak Lenin Expedition 2017. Climb Lenin Peak (7134m)
|Country of destination:||Kyrgyzstan||View the route map »»|
|Tour itinerary, cities:||Osh - Base camp - Osh|
|Tour duration:||21 days / 20 nights|
|Best time to travel:||25.06 - 31.08||Application form on participation in Lenin peak 2017 expedition »»|
Guarantee Dates Of Group Tours In 2017:
|Group №1. 04.07 - 21.07.2017||Group №3. 25.07 - 11.08.2017|
|Group №2. 13.07 - 30.07.2017||Group №4. 03.08 - 20.08.2017|
Mt. Lenin Peak (7134m) is considered to be one of the most popular, easily of accessed and hence most frequented summits among 7,000m peaks of the Pamir. It’s a common belief that the Lenin Peak (Pik Lenin) is one of the easiest of the CIS’s four 7,000m-odd peaks to climb, a statement which is true to a certain extent but is far from representing the whole story. It must be remembered that an altitude over 7,000m places the peak clearly in the category of high-altitude climbing. The ascent route in itself is not a technically difficult one and is normally carried out by mountaineers climbing in a roped-up-pair manner. However, the success or failure of your Lenin Peak expedition is often dependant on such treacherous factors as weather and the ever pressing altitude. In order to succeed a climber has to be of good physical condition, have appropriate climbing gear and be fully prepared in terms of good, safe acclimatization.
Traditionally, expeditions access the Base Camp (BC) from the town of Osh (there is Turkish Airlines flight to Osh). The evident advantage of the financial affordability of the Lenin Peak program lays in the fact, that the helicopter services will not be necessary for reaching the Base Camp, using of standard vehicle will be enough. From Osh to the Base Camp of the Lenin Peak we drive along the Pamir Highway M-41.
Attention please! Lenin Peak ascent is classed as an extreme activity. Each member takes complete responsibility for their decision to participate in this program and is responsible for all actions and all possible consequences of their participation in this program.
The program for the ascent of Lenin Peak is recommended as acclimatization for the prospective mountaineer intending to attempt high altitude expeditions within the Himalayan and Tibetan regions, the legendary peaks of K-2, Everest, and Makalu among them.
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|Basic program for ascent to the Lenin Peak 2017:|
|Day 1||Arrive in Tashkent / Bishkek.|
Meet at airport, transfer to hotel accommodation. Free time for exploring, visiting sights, bazaars etc. in town.
|Day 2||Drive / fly to Osh. Drive Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).|
Drive Tashkent - Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).
On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province (up to Kamchik Pass), Namangan Province and Andijan Province (the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley). For the first two hours you will be bussing across the Tashkent Province known since early medieval as “Ilak” - the area rich in non-ferrous metals and brown coal. The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne (alfalfa) along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. 50 km further and the bus turn left. We drive along the Ahangaran River (“The River of iron-work masters”) - witness to the long history of mining and metalworking in the area. On the other side of the river (10km away) is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union. 100km away from Tashkent in the valley of the Akhangaran River the town of Angren lies, known for being the home to Uzbekistan’s largest open-cast brown coal mine. Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province. The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass (2,285m) from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. The road is colloquially known as the “Road of Life” - for its great importance to the economy of Uzbekistan and is in fact, is the only transport artery directly connecting the Fergana Valley to mainland Uzbekistan. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides.
The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan. 300km long and 120km wide, the Valley is rich in not only population (up to 30% of total Uzbekistan’s population ) but also water sources (Sir-Daria River as well as dozens of canals and smaller water streams), fertile arable lands and important mineral reserves (including, inter alia, oil and gas). It was here that 5-6 thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions. In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.
We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel.
Fly Bishkek to Osh.
The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.7 USD fee for every additional Kilo.
Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town.
Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls. You can get to the Jayma Bazaar by route taxi (“marshrutka”) or simply on foot walking downstream by the Ak-Bura River. Suleiman Too (Solomon Mountain) is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, 5-6 thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies.
|Day 3||Drive from Osh to Base Camp (3600 m), Edelweiss Glade.|
After breakfast, if required, you can shop for foodstuffs at the bazaar. Please note that you will not find any high-altitude foodstuffs there. Get yourself prepared (mentally and physically) for a crowded and loud atmosphere of the oriental bazaar. Make sure that you have you list of stuff to buy prepared beforehand.
Upon arrival at the «Edelweiss Glade» you will be accommodated in comfortable base tents equipped with wooden floors and electricity (bedclothes are also provided). More of a hotel-room-sans-conveniences (located just outside) than a tent our participants are often pleasantly surprised.
The «Edelweiss Glade» BC is the largest one at the Achik Tash Tract and is the final point where it’s possible to trust the wheels of your off-road Jeep. Here’s the end of the “easy going” - your transport relies on your feet only from here on out!
Base Camp (3,600 m) is a complex of structures with all that’s necessary for comfortable dwelling: tents, kitchen, vapor bath, a number of toilets, a volleyball playing field, and most importantly a number of warm yurts (heated every day!), which can be used either as a dining-room or potentially a dancing hall.
|Day 4||Get acquainted with the area. Prepare yourself for ascent.|
Wake up in the morning and get your breath stolen away with a stunning view: snow-clad XIX Party Conference Peak, pointed Pertovskiy Peak and, of course: the inimitable Lenin Peak. Tomorrow you set off to the Camp 1 which is a good point to think over where to leave your extra luggage and how to fill your spare time on the expedition. Your luggage will be perfectly safe in the BC’s luggage office, no need to worry as the Base Camp Superintendent is fully responsible for its integrity.
As for the first day’s free time, our best advice is not to stay idle in the camp all day but rather have a round hike to the Puteshestvennikov (Travelers’ Pass 4,200m) or walk down the valley for closer views of the alpine lakes. This affords the best acclimatization you can get at this stage, something you will be no doubt be thankful for further along the line.
|Day 5||Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m).|
The ascent to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the physical conditions of the participants. It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered. Take a deep breath of air into your lungs as the panoramic view that opens up before you from the “Marmots’ Glade” lying just below the pass is astonishing. Local residents of the glade - marmots - whistling out different tunes dart in and out their holes, heedless of observing visitors.
Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes.
Total ascent time is about 3 to 4.5 hours.
Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. In 2007’s season we have managed to couple (!) two yurts - an achievement unheard of even by experienced Kyrgyz shepherds!
The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee. Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance!
You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents shared between 2-3 persons.
|Day 6||Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m).|
Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow (80m-long stretch, gradient 35-40 degrees) using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag. Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream (factor 25 and higher)! We then traverse the slope keeping to the right aiming at the plateau colloquially known as “Skovoroda” (Frying Pan). Cross the “Skovoroda” to reach Camp 2 (6 to 7 hours).
If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.
|Day 7||Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m).|
From Camp 2 we ascend along the 25 to 30-degree steep slope to the adjacent ridge (2006’s season marked the path for a number of new big crevasses). Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). From the top descend to “peremychka” (“saddle”) at 6,100 m. For the last two years the Camp 3 (6,100 m) has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak.
The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6,100 m above sea level, you know!
|Day 8||Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m).|
Descent is carried out on the same way and takes less time and effort. You can reach Camp 1 in 4 to 5 hours and there plunge yourself back into the comfort of civilization: Internet, good food and a cup of brewed coffee or a can of fruit juice.
Rest. You’ll be much better off that way for the next day’s descent to the Base Camp (3,600 m) where you can restore your physical strength and replenish your energy. The rule is: the lower the altitude, the faster and better restoration. After all, sleeping at a leafy green spot is far more pleasant.
|Day 9||Descend to the Base camp (3600 m).|
Oh, “Edelweiss Glade”! Oh, Base Camp! Home sweet home for us after all these days in those cheerless, endless snow fields! Feel free to strip your clothes off and lie down in the grassy glade, breathing in the aromas of the alpine motley grass, bathing in the warming beams of the Asian sun…
Those returning to BC after an ascent often dream of a feeling of CLEANLINESS. The BC administration offers excellent vapor baths available daily in the afternoon.
|Day 10||Rest day.|
“Edelweiss Glade” is an excellent place for full-body relaxation. Those who’ve had enough of languishing in bed can seek active relaxation as we have a volley-ball net hanged up across the camp site with a ball always primed for use. If only every day was an active rest day! By the way, the volley-ball pitch regularly houses international games that everyone may take part in! Some participants play for specific...’interests’, for instance: a ram against a crate of beer. Fancy a game?
|Day 11||Rest day.|
Today you have a great opportunity to walk around and explore the picturesque environment, making friends of the local marmots and snapping reams of envy inducing photos for the folks back home. There are so many lakes around in Achik-Tash valley’s grassland that it seems like once upon a time, long ago when the Gods of these harsh lands had been in something of a good mood, they ventured to decorate these cheerless areas with something bright and joyful. The divine bowl capsizing high above, the refreshing blue water gushed out spreading from green hills to lowlands, deluging all the carols and cavities of this landscape. You can even swim here now!
|Day 12||Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m).|
Along the now well known path get to the Camp meet with its inhabitants and visit the yurt...
It’s extremely cozy here - just like home. When lanterns begin to shine and the darkness of the sky becomes dense and cold, the little world of the C1 converges to the size of micro cosmos, its life continuing to the illuminated island of the moraine deep inside of Lenin glacier… It’s strange to realize that you are, as such a small, defenseless person, at a dizzying distance high in the mountains, amid the mysterious and powerful Pamir... and you’re alright! You can’t get much cooler than that!
|Day 13||Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m).|
Upwards again… The way does not seem quite so long as it was the first time around - this is normal and it’s a definite improvement as you’re able to look around and appreciate the scenery. And, at the same time as if by some miracle - your breathing isn’t quite so thrown out of rhythm by that capricious mistress that is altitude! Your shoulders feel the deluge of sun rays - the weather couldn’t be better today! Everyone thinks about the final goal on today’s ascent - most wishing it would come sooner! The main thing is that you should follow your body’s signals and listen to its prompts. Don’t let things slip and keep on top of everything yourself. The campsite is comfortable but not that big so you will have to get close to those neighbors of yours - the multiple “companions-in-arms” who would have already set up camp there by the time of your arrival.
|Day 14||Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m).|
Unbelievable - you’re walking above the clouds! A most startling fact… Try to settle in for the night with comfort, if it’s appropriate to mention given the altitude. You need rest however so refresh yourself and restore your reserves of strength expended during the day. It’s just great to not be alone here! Such a large number of like-minded people who can share your delight over the picture perfect surroundings. It doesn’t matter that your shoulders ache and your tongue can hardly move because that’s just part and parcel of your personal Pamir tale. Everything’s going to be fine and with luck you’ll feel well rested and refreshed for the morning! Tomorrow is the most crucial day of the whole expedition so ensure that even if restful sleep doesn’t come easily that you’ve had a much needed respite from the harsh conditions (with breakfast in the morning being a must).
|Day 15||Ascend to the summit of the Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descend to Camp 3 (6100 m).|
Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is waiting for you! From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto the so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow ice ridge) - be extra as careful on this stretch! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit.
And there we are - at the top! Woo! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!!
Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break (subject to good weather) and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3.
A useful tip: in the event of inclement weather don’t take unnecessary risks. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,900m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!
|Day 16||Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m).|
Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. Luckily enough there’s some ready and waiting for you at Camp 1! A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. Certainly a place difficult to become/remain bored in. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie... One may well take the motto hanging from the yurt flap t heart: “YURT - CONNECTION PEOPLE”. There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time. The yurt closes at 23:00 PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning.
|Day 17||Descend to Base Camp (3600 m).|
Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics! Relax sitting on the traditional Kyrgyz “kurpacha” (mattress) and have a delicious piece of freshly cooked lamb. This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is.
|Day 18||Reserve day in case of bad weather.|
In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town. Most likely a day to remember!
|Day 19||Drive from Base Camp to Osh.|
Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection, beer or quite possibly a healthy mix of the two.
|Day 20||Drive from Osh to Tashkent or fly from Osh to Bishkek.|
Accommodation in hotel. Free time for meandering and souvenir shopping.
|Day 21||Departure from Tashkent or Bishkek.|
That’s it. Full stop. All the troubles from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow you won’t have to stress your mind with the detailing of your ascent plan, hectically packing your rucksack or exposing your body to the shrill Pamir winds (though gazes at the beautifully alluring summits are the steep price to pay, pun firmly intended). Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer. The feeling that tickles the line into your ear: “Hey, let’s head back, we’ve left our friends behind in that nice warm yurt …”.
|Price-list for the additional services 2017 »»|
Following above is our basic program of the ascent. It’s based on long-term experience and a record of successful ascents to the summit of Lenin Peak. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.
For persons who would like to visit our Yurt cams just for spending the time according their preferences and without some mountaineering intention then no problem: being alone, or with your friends, or with your sweetheart, or with your family even including your children - you are welcome! You also have unique chance to spend your vacations under foot of Lenin Peak, our special offer for you: "Vacation in the Pamirs" program!
Dates of transfers Osh - Base Camp - Osh for the season 2017:
This table with fixed dates of transfers from Osh to BC and back will help you to plan correctly your arrival date in Bishkek, Tashkent or Osh as well as date of your departure home.
|Days of the week||Tue||Thu||Sun||Tue||Thu||Sun||Tue||Thu||Sun||Tue||Thu||Sun||Tue||Thu||Sun||Tue||Thu||Sun||Tue||Thu|
|Osh - BC||27||29||2||4||6||9||11||13||16||18||20||23||25||27||30||1||3||6||8||10|
|BC - Osh||13||15||19||20||22||26||27||29||2||3||5||9||10||12||16||17||19||23||24||26|
|Days of the week||Thu||Sat||Wed||Thu||Sat||Wed||Thu||Sat||Wed||Thu||Sat||Wed||Thu||Sat||Wed||Thu||Sat||Wed||Thu||Sat|
How to use the arriving schedule (which is reserved in advance in the Application):
|•||The Economy Option provides for using any dates from our schedule to arrive from Osh to the Base Camp and depart the Base Camp for Osh; the active part is of unlimited duration;|
|•||In the Business Option you choose from one column the dates for arrival in the Base Camp from Osh and departure from the Base Camp for Osh; the top line is the arrival date and the bottom line of the same column is the departure date; you are allowed to stay in the Base Camp for up to 2 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of the date of your return ticket, without additional payment for lodging and meals;|
|•||In the Combined Group Option the dates for the arrival in the Base Camp from Osh and the departure from the Base Camp for Osh concerns all the members of a group; they are specified in the description of the option and depend on the combined group you belong to;|
|•||In the VIP Option you can choose any date for the arrival in the Base Camp from Osh and the departure from the Base Camp for Osh, regardless of our transfer schedule; you are allowed to stay at the Base Camp for up to 6 more days in case of bad weather or poor state of health or because of your return ticket date, without additional payment for lodging and meals, in which case, however, you will have to pay extra for the guide’s additional service (in excess of 15 days.|
In case you are not able to use these dates for some reason then you have possibility to order individual transfer. This order should be done beforehand at preliminary correspondence.
Cost of individual transfer in one direction (in depending on number of members and model of transport) is exposed in price-list on additional service.
- Economy option
- 450 USD/1 pax
- Business option
- 1000 USD/1 pax
- Combined group option
- 1850 USD/1 pax
- VIP option
- 5510 USD/1 pax
- How to get there.
- Ascension strategy.
- Frequently asked questions
Photos of the «Ascension to Lenin Peak» tour:
Videos of the Lenin Peak tour:
Video about Lenin Peak, video about Base camps, video of ascension on Lenin Peak.
|Pamir Experience 2016||Base Camp Surroundings
On The Foot Of Lenin Peak
|Lenin Peak Slideshow||
Descent to the glacier’s crevasse. Lenin Peak
Feedbacks from tourists to the tour «Lenin Peak».
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