Tactic of ascention to Lenin Peak
Leg 1: Base Camp (3,600 m) to Camp 1 (4,400 m). Ascend to and over the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) that usually takes 3 – 3,5 hours of walking on a good path. It may be snow lying up there. Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Keep on along the left-hand side moraine of the Lenin Glacier. Cross a stream and carry on uphill to the track. Crossing the stream sometimes may be very difficult due to high water. On the good track carry on to the moraine of the Lenin Glacier (reference point is a big stone with a cross drawn on it). Walk along the moraine to the Camp for another 20-30 minutes. The ascent may total 3-5 hours. Suggested BC departure time is no later than first half of day. It takes 4 - 5 hours to get to Camp 1 depending on weather, your own pace and personal preparedness for climbing.
Leg 2: Camp 1 (4,400 m) – Camp 2 (5,300 m): From Camp 1 keep straight on to the centre of the North Face (beginning of the slope) bypassing multiple crevasses till you reach steep snow-covered up-swinging bit. Use fixed ropes to cross the steep snow slope (80 m long, gradient up to 35-40 degrees). Then traverse keeping up and to the right towards snow plateau (“Skovoroda”). Carry on across the scree slope to the Camp 2. Roping up is highly recommended on the whole stretch. Preferable departure time is before 09 AM. Allow 5-8 hours for this leg.
Leg 3: Camp 2 (5,300 m) – Camp 3 (6,100 m): Ascend on the slope 25-30-degrees steep keeping to the left of the rocks and aiming at the ridge. It may be strong wind up there. Then turn to the left and carry on along the level ridge towards the top of the Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). Traverse to the left of the Razdelnaya Peak and descend to Camp 3. Optimal departure time is before 09 AM. Allow 4-7 hours.
Leg 4: Camp 3 (6,100 m) – Lenin Peak (7,134 m) - Camp 3 (6,100 m): Uphill on the snow and rocky ridge towards a steep and narrow icy bit (called as "Nosh" - “knife”). Carry on along the “Nosh” (gradient 40-45 degrees, 70 m long), it may be stormy wind blowing up there. Then you find your way between the rocks walking along the ridge across pre-apical snow fields (the deep snow causes slow down effect on the ascending). You carry on then across lengthy apical plateau to the top (the apex is marked by the largest cairn). Descend the same way back. Early start at 4-6 AM is obligatory. It may take 10-14 hours to get to the top and back to Camp 3.
If needed, at the altitude of 6,400 m another interim camp (Camp 4) may be set up at the ridge plateau.
For ascending Lenin Peak it is better for you to have following climbing equipment: high-altitude tent, a rug, sleeping-bag (-10C – - 20C), rucksack (in size 60-100 liters), high-altitude mountain plastic shoes, tracking shoes, high-altitude mountain sun glasses (it is better to have reserve ones), sunscreen (not less than 25 factors), lipcare stick, private high-altitude first-aid set, telescopic ski sticks, ice-axe, crampons, helmet, rope (6-11 mm, 200-30 m), safety system, carabines (3-5), clip for rope, ice- bores (2), safety halyard (4-5 mm, 2-3 m), head flash-light, powder-puff, warm breeches, warm mittens, gloves, hat, face mask, cap, weatherproof clothing, woolen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket.
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