Tactic of ascention to Lenin Peak

Scheme of expedition to Lenin Peak

Leg 1: Base Camp (3,600 m) to Camp 1 (4,400 m). Ascend to and over the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m) that usually takes 3 – 3,5 hours of walking on a good path. It may be snow lying up there. Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Keep on along the left-hand side moraine of the Lenin Glacier. Cross a stream and carry on uphill to the track. Crossing the stream sometimes may be very difficult due to high water. On the good track carry on to the moraine of the Lenin Glacier (reference point is a big stone with a cross drawn on it). Walk along the moraine to the Camp for another 20-30 minutes. The ascent may total 3-5 hours. Suggested BC departure time is no later than first half of day. It takes 4 - 5 hours to get to Camp 1 depending on weather, your own pace and personal preparedness for climbing.
Leg 2: Camp 1 (4,400 m) – Camp 2 (5,300 m): From Camp 1 keep straight on to the centre of the North Face (beginning of the slope) bypassing multiple crevasses till you reach steep snow-covered up-swinging bit. Use fixed ropes to cross the steep snow slope (80 m long, gradient up to 35-40 degrees). Then traverse keeping up and to the right towards snow plateau (“Skovoroda”). Carry on across the scree slope to the Camp 2. Roping up is highly recommended on the whole stretch. Preferable departure time is before 09 AM. Allow 5-8 hours for this leg.
Leg 3: Camp 2 (5,300 m) – Camp 3 (6,100 m): Ascend on the slope 25-30-degrees steep keeping to the left of the rocks and aiming at the ridge. It may be strong wind up there. Then turn to the left and carry on along the level ridge towards the top of the Razdelnaya Peak (6,200m, deep snow). Traverse to the left of the Razdelnaya Peak and descend to Camp 3. Optimal departure time is before 09 AM. Allow 4-7 hours.
Leg 4: Camp 3 (6,100 m) – Lenin Peak (7,134 m) - Camp 3 (6,100 m): Uphill on the snow and rocky ridge towards a steep and narrow icy bit (called as "Nosh" - “knife”). Carry on along the “Nosh” (gradient 40-45 degrees, 70 m long), it may be stormy wind blowing up there. Then you find your way between the rocks walking along the ridge across pre-apical snow fields (the deep snow causes slow down effect on the ascending). You carry on then across lengthy apical plateau to the top (the apex is marked by the largest cairn). Descend the same way back. Early start at 4-6 AM is obligatory. It may take 10-14 hours to get to the top and back to Camp 3.
If needed, at the altitude of 6,400 m another interim camp (Camp 4) may be set up at the ridge plateau.

For ascending Lenin Peak it is better for you to have following climbing equipment: high-altitude tent, a rug, sleeping-bag (-10C – - 20C), rucksack (in size 60-100 liters), high-altitude mountain plastic shoes, tracking shoes, high-altitude mountain sun glasses (it is better to have reserve ones), sunscreen (not less than 25 factors), lipcare stick, private high-altitude first-aid set, telescopic ski sticks, ice-axe, crampons, helmet, rope (6-11 mm, 200-30 m), safety system, carabines (3-5), clip for rope, ice- bores (2), safety halyard (4-5 mm, 2-3 m), head flash-light, powder-puff, warm breeches, warm mittens, gloves, hat, face mask, cap, weatherproof clothing, woolen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket.

If you wish to get more information, ascending plan, detailed description of Base Camp services or photos, please, let us know.

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Reviews were found: 6

Настойчивый Восходитель 16.08.2013 04:30
Замечательно прошло восхождение на пик Ленина. Масса эмоций, хочется еще раз приехать и снова взойти на вершину!

Компания и гиды молодцы, работают классно, настоящие спецы своего дела.

Уважуха, ребята! Так держать!!!
Malgorzata Janik 19.08.2013 19:28
I was lucky to meet Pamir - Expeditions stuff at Camp 1 after I was transported there with altitude sickness. Pavel- the doctor and Denis- the guide took care of me and did a great job to safe my life and made me smiling despite my health troubles. I hope to come back on Pik Lenin in the near future but only with Pamir -Expeditions company. They are really good in what they do. Thanks boys!
Сергей Лубнин 09.10.2013 21:02
Огромное Спасибо, ребята!!!
Не очень красивы сожженные губы
И щеки, потрескав, не так уж милы,
И вроде невзрачна тропа, что их губит,
И камни, что падают сверху малы...
О них ты спроси у Костяна с Никитой,
Что вроде бы молоды с виду пока,
Но истинный опыт оценишь попозже,
Откушав у Шефа - Ислама Ака!
А если вдруг другу совсем поплохело,
Сломала "горняшка" иль придавил груз,
Тащи сразу к "Доку" уставшее тело
Любого поставит на ноги Навруз!
Надеюсь, простят те, что чтут эти строки,
Что имя не каждого внес я в формат.
Простите, отвлекся, ведь в кружку мне снова
Чайку подливает с душой Азамат!
Andrey 01.08.2014 16:08
Нам повезло!!! Потому что обратились в ЦентрлАзия!!! Со стороны компании профессионализм, гостепреимство и неравнодушие... с нашей сбытие стремления достичь ВЕРШИНЫ!!! Со словами благодарности команда "Эльбрус" (Михаил, Вадим, Андрей). июль 2014г,
Aleksandar 20.08.2014 16:07
Thanks for everything, the expedition was successful five members climbed onto the top of Lenin, eight members came out on top Razdelnaja.
We are satisfied with housing, food, and people. (Sauna is a great) :-)
We wish much to commend Nicholas, Olga, Mukadas, are always ready to help ridge whatever we needed.
The real professionals in their job.
Thanks for everything ....
Best regards.
Angela / Pik Lenin 01.09.2015 22:50
The whole trip was very well organized and everything went as planed (Expect the weather on the mountain ;-) Summit on the 31.07.2015
Special thanks to the team in camp 1. They do an excellent job, super friendly service and the food is fantastic.
Our trip to Uzbekistan was an nice finish after the 2 1/2 weeks on the mountain. Also here, everything was very good organized.
A big thank you to everybody involved in our stay.



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