Program of ascention to Korjenevskaya Peak 7105 m
|Country of destination:||Tajikistan||View the route map »»|
|Tour itinerary, cities:||Dushanbe - Base Camp|
|Tour duration:||27 days / 26 nights|
|Best time to travel:||22.07 - 27.08|
Korjenevskaya Peak is located in the Northern-West part of Pamir, 13 km far from Communism Peak. The peak was discovered by Russian scientist and geographer N. Korjenevskiy in 23rd of August in 1910 and was called in honour of the wife of the investigator - Evgeniya Korjenevskaya. The name Korjenevskaya Peak appeared on the geographical maps officially since 1927. The first successful ascent to the top was in 22nd of August in 1953. The group consisted of eight mountain-climbers from Leningrad reached the top, ascending along the Northern edge from the glacier Korjenevskaya. For present there are known about 10 different routes of different difficulties leading to the summit. The safest and less difficult route is the route along the Southern edge from the glacier Korjenevskaya.
The capital of Tajikistan - Dushanbe - is the departure point of the expedition. The most convenient option of approach is the option of arrival to Dushanbe by international flights, for present there are international flights from Istanbul, Munich, and Moscow.
The option of arrival to Dushanbe from Tashkent (via Samarkand) seems interesting for those who want to make a sightseeing program along the world famous sights of Samarkand after finish the expedition.
There is only one possible option of getting to the Base camp from Dushanbe for present - a helicopter flight. Now there are no any opportunities for walking passing that was possible several years ago because of difficulties of passing.
There are two options of getting to the Base camp on Moskvina Glade:
- Directly from Dushanbe.
- By car from Jirgital and further flight.
The Base camp is on the height of 4200 m. above sea level, near the confluence of the glaciers Walter and Moskvina (the Eastern branches of the glacier Fortambek). It’s the most convenient and safe departure point for ascending to Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks because of the shorter approaches.
After the flight to the Base camp we recommend you to make a wonderful 2-4 days long trip via the glacier Fortambek to Suloeva glade. You can enjoy the views of such Pamir giants, as Russia peak, Moscow peak, the glacier Tramplinnyi - the spring of continual falling avalanches.
Vorobiova peak (5691 m) and Chetyreh peak (6299 m) are used for acclimatization very often. They are located quite nearby the Base camp. It’s possible to ascend to Vorobiova peak for one day, to Chetyreh peak - for 2-3 days.
The two peaks - Vorobiova and Chetyreh have many points of visibility. You can see fantastic panoramas to the surrounding peaks, especially to the highest of them: Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks.
You have to take into account the altitude of Communism peak overtops 7000 m and that’s implies high-altitude climbing. The route to the top is technically difficult and existence of such crafty factors as unpredictable weather and pressing height can play a determinative role in success or failure of your expedition. For successful expedition you would be required good physical training, essential equipment and correct acclimatization.
|Program of the tour:|
|Day 1||Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel, accommodation.|
|Day 2||Transfer to the airport, flight to Moskvina Glade, accommodation in the Base Camp.|
|Day 3||Acquaintance with area. Preparation day for ascent.|
|Day 4||Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (5691 m). The route to Vorobiova Peak begins from the helicopter field (4530 m). The route is not technically difficult.|
|Day 5||Descend to Base Camp (BC).|
|Day 6-7||Rest days.|
|Day 8||Acclimatization climb to Korjenevskaya Peak. Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m.). The route crosses the glacier Moskvina and goes along the good path (easy climbing is possible) to the beginning of the glacier (5100 m).|
|Day 9||Ascent without luggage to the camp (5300 m). The path makes a traverse of a slope and goes to the rocks and to the ragged edge of a glacier.|
|Day 10||Rest day.|
|Day 11||Rest day.|
|Day 12||Acclimatization climb to 5100 m, putting the camp on to 5300 m. Overnight.|
|Day 13||Ascent to the Camp 2 (5800m). At first the route goes along the wide snowy-icy slope of middle abruptness (You need crampons).|
|Day 14||Descent to the Base camp.|
|Day 15||Rest day.|
|Day 16||Rest day.|
|Day 17||Ascent to the Camp 1 (5300 m). Overnight.|
|Day 18||Ascent to the Camp 2 (5800 m). Overnight.|
|Day 19||Ascent to the Camp 3 (6400 m). The route goes along the Southern-West wall upon snowy-icy slope by the gigantic traverse.|
|Day 20||Ascent to the summit - 7105 м. The route goes along a wide snowy slope and then - along a narrow, as a “knife” crest (height ~ 6550m). Good climber is alive climber!|
|Day 21||Descent to the Camp 3 (6400 m). Overnight.|
|Day 22||Descent to the Base camp.|
|Day 23-25||Reserve days in case of bad weather.|
|Day 26||Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Accommodation in a hotel.|
|Day 27||Departure from Dushanbe.|
* Note: The cost of the program includes: ascention to Communism Peak and ascention to Korjenevskaya Peak
The cost includes:
|•||Arranging necessary documents;|
|•||Meeting / transfer from / to airport;|
|•||All transfers according to the program;|
|•||Helicopter flights Dushanbe- BC (Moskvina Glade)-Dushanbe with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment - 3 EUR / kg);|
|•||Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights);|
|•||Services in Base Camp:|
|-||accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting);|
|-||full boarding (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);|
|-||toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC;|
|-||sauna (steam room) at BC;|
|-||medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;|
|-||electric supply 220V; 50HZ;|
|-||high-altitude guide consultancy services;|
|-||registration with rescue team.|
The cost does not include:
|•||The cost of visa support (24 EUR / pax);|
|•||Document of acceptance of tourist (7 EUR / pax);|
|•||Tajikistan visa (48 EUR / pax);|
|•||Services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;|
|•||Rent of mountaineering gear;|
|•||Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.|
Base camp put at your disposal:
|•||Stationary dining room for 80 people - ideal and the coziest place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, audio and videotape recorders, chess, checkers and backgammon;|
|•||Canvas tents (2 persons per tent) put upon woody pallets with mattresses and electricity;|
|•||Shower / sauna;|
|•||City version of WC - it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror in each Camp;|
|•||Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced doctor-reanimation with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour;|
|•||Volleyball play-field. Long live sport and international tournaments of volleyball!!!;|
|•||Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000 m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend;|
|•||3 times hot meal from professional cooks whose experience of work no less than 10 years;|
|•||Internet and satellite telephone;|
|•||Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; priming of gas canisters.|
Additional services in Base Camp:
|•||Filling of gas canisters (230 mg) - 3 EUR / gas canister;|
|•||New gas canisters (230 mg) - 8 EUR / gas canister (reduction 1,5 EUR for return of used canister);|
|•||Satellite phone, e-mail, bar - according to price list of the Base Camp;|
|•||Rent of radio station - 5 EUR / pair (per day);|
|•||The services of a mountain guide - 50 EUR / day;|
|•||The services of porters for ascending: (4200 - 5300 м) - 8 EUR / kg, (5300 - 5800 м) - 12 EUR / kg, (5800 - 6300 м) - 20 EUR / kg, (> 6300 м) - 28 EUR / kg.|
Photo of the tour «Korjenevskaya Peak»: