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Korjenevskaya Peak

Historical background of Korjenevskaya Peak


1936 - first ever attempt to ascend the Peak was made by Soviet mountaineers A.Djaparidze and N.Gusak. They reached the altitude of 6200m. 1937 - D.Guschin + 3 persons reached the point 6960m. Next expedition was organized only in 1953.
On July 30, 1953 expedition members of the Leningrad mountaineering team began the delivery of expedition cargo to the foot of the peak. The problems with wireless communication between the groups, the absence of bridges across the tempestuous rivers delayed the delivery for 3 weeks. Base camp at the height of 2650m was organized only on 31st July. Interim camps were then organised: C1 - 4400m, CII - 5600m, CIII - 6100m. A. Beletzkiy - the leader of the expedition - fell ill and had to descend to the base camp from 6100m on 12th August. A.Ugarov replaced Beletzkiy as a leader of the group. The storm of the peak began on 17th August.
Camp IV - 6500m was set on the summit ridge and then camp V- 6800m established on 20th of August. On 22nd of August two members of the team left the camp V at 11:00 and reached the top at 15:00. In 30 minutes after other 6 expeditions members joined the winners at the top. Descent to the base camp took 3 days due to bad weather conditions. 8 mountain climbers - A. Ugarov, A.Goneev, L.Krasavin, P.Skorobogatov, B.Dmitriev, A.Kovyrnov, E.Ryspaev, R.Semidjanov reached the top.

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