Peaks of Pamir mountain
Tajikistan lies at the junction of five of the world"s greatest mountain ranges: the Himalaya, Karakorum, Hindu Kush, Tien Shan and Pamir. The Pamir’s dominate the eastern half of Tajikistan; covering an area of more than 63,700 sq. Km. The Tajiks refer to this region as "Bom-i-Dunyo", the Roof of the World.
Three of the highest peaks in the former Soviet Union lie here: Peak Communism (7,495 m), Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya (7,105 m) and Peak Lenin (7,134 m). There are more than 100 other peaks over 6,000 m, some of them still unclimbed.
The highest mountain in the ex-USSR was Peak Communism, which was renamed to Peak Ismoil Somoni in 1999, after the founder of the 12th century Tajik Samanid dynasty. Peak Communism and Peak Korjenevskaya overlook a large moraine, Moskvina Glade (4200 m), where the base camp for ascending either mountain is located. The moraine is encircled by three glaciers, Walter, Traube and Moskvina.
Though these giants of the Pamir’s have been climbed for many years (2003 was the 70th anniversary of the first ascent of Peak Communism and the 50th anniversary of the first ascent on Peak Korjenevskaya), there remain mountains in the Pamir’s which have not been climbed by anyone yet. In July 1999 a British expedition climbed two previously-unnamed peaks in the eastern Pamir. There is endless scope for exploratory climbing and many as-yet-unclimbed summits beckon the experienced mountaineer in search of a fresh challenge.
Jutting west from the Pamir’s is a huge rocky spur, the Pamir-Alai, which makes up most of west Tajikistan. This is alpine territory with wooded slopes, lakes and rivers gracing the sides of the mountains. The Fann and Hissor ranges are ideal for trekking peaks (up to 5,489 m) or more technical climbing.
The region comprises a group of ranges with more then 50 mountains over 6000 meters. The biggest is the Academi Nauk Range, which is approached from the north-west by Peter the Great Range.
At the meeting place of the two is the Pamir"s highest mountain, Peak Ismoili Somoni (Communizma) 7495ms. Further to the north, in the Academi Nauk Range, is the mountain Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya (7105ms). These two giants overlook a large moraine, Moskvina Glade (4200ms), with a finny lake and a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains. The place is encircled by three glaciers, Walter, traube and Moskvina, and used as the starting point to both summits, Ice-climbing enthusiasts will find there good series for practice.
The base camp on the moraine is an oasis of civilization in the desert of mountains. Helicopter provides the only link between the base camp and the outside world. The noise of rotating propeller is the most welcome sound for climbers in the area. In spite of all these difficulties, the trek is worth trying. The Pamir tract, mostly uninhabited and dotted with endless desolate clearings and occasional lively oasis’s, impresses by it"s grandeurs and mystery.
The northern slopes also have difficult routes, however, the route via the northern ridge does not pose serious technical problems. The classical route to the top of Mt. Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya is laid on the southern slope, a convenience for climbers. Both routes (V-UIAA) are well-explored and, under normal conditions, quite safe. The magnificence of the panoramic view from other summit defies description. It has to be tried in person. Central Pamir is known for it"s mostly stable weather with some exceptions in the areas of Mts. Peak Ismoili Somoni (Communizm) and Peak Revolutsii.
Mt. Evgenia Korjenevskaya was explored in 1910 by a Russian scientist Nikolai Korjenevsky, who named the mountain after his wife Evgenia. The first ascent of the mountain was made in October 1953. Coping with high altitude on Peak E. Korjenavskaya proved easier than other mountains of comparable night. This is why it is considered an agreeable place for acclimatization.