Khan-Tengry Peak

 

Country of destination: Kyrgyzstan View the route map »»
Tour itinerary, cities: Bishkek - Karkara - Base camp
Tour duration: 21 days / 20 nights
Best time to travel: 03.06 - 28.08

Guarantee Dates Of Group Tours In 2017:

  Group №1. 29.07 - 18.08.2017   Group №2. 05.08 - 25.08.2017  

In the world, there are very few mountains comparable by their beauty with this snow-clad giant. Words are flat and helpless when you talk about the Khan-Tengri’s beauty. You must see it with your own eyes. The sunset at the Peak is stunning: surrounding mountains are drowning in the dusk while the Peak, dominating over all other mountains around, turns flaming red in the rays of the sitting sun and clouds cast twirling shadows streaming down its slopes.
“Khan-Tengri” - “The Master of the Sky” in the Mongolian language, from time immemorial is known to native local inhabitants, Kyrgyz, as “Kan-Too” - “Blood Mountain” (“kan” means “blood”, “too” - “mountain”). First scientific account on the Peak dates back to the middle of the 19th century when Khan-Tengri had been seen and described by notorious Russian explorer of the Tian Shan mountains P.P. Semenov-Tian-Sanskiy, in 1856-57. Here is an excerpt from his personal diary: ”When we got up to the top of the mountain pass it was about one o’clock p.m. We were surprised and dazzled with the sight we’ve got. Straight to the south of us laid the most magnificent of all mountain ranges I’ve ever seen. The entire range top to bottom consisted of snowy giants which, to the left and right hand side of me, I could number of not less than thirty in total. The whole range with intervals between mountain tops was covered by interminable shroud of eternal snow. Amidst these giants, an outstanding one was strikingly contrasting with the rest by its snow-white pointed pyramid, which, from our pass’ heights, other peaks seemed to be half the height of...” And that was the Khan-Tengri Peak.
As of today, more than 10 mountaineering routes have been laid to the top of the Khan-Tengri Peak. All the routes can be subdivided into two main groups: northern routes commencing from the North Inilchek Glacier and southern routes - starting from the South Inilchek Glacier. Most popular with mountaineers is so called “Marble Rib” route, the route №1 beginning from the Semenovskiy Glacier on the south. This route is under constant monitoring by rescue services.
Besides well-known peaks like Peak Khan-Tengri and Peak Pobeda, the area has over 30 peaks around 6,000m-high. Some of them still wait for their first-ever climber.

Our tour program supposes option of arriving to the Base camp of Khan-Tengry Peak via Bishkek.

After that you will make a car transfer to the summer camp Karkara, whence a helicopter will take you towards the North and South Inilchek Glaciers to our Base Camps.
Khan-Tengri is in the short list of the world’s top-class summits that every self-respecting mountaineer dreams of climbing. But give up your hopes to succeed to the top if your personal track record includes only a few simple routes and your high-altitude physical and technical preparedness is not appropriate. The mountain is extremely serious both physically and technically. Classical West Rib route that is described here below is not a simple one. Before setting off, the one adventuring on the climb must consciously weigh up one’s potential and ability of doing that. Because when the dice is cast you are to meet with the Great Mountain face to face.

Preliminary dates helicopter flights 2017
(Schedule can be changed!):
Direction July August
Karkara BC -
South Inylchek BC
2 7 9 14 16 21 23 28 30 31 3 4 6 7 11
South Inylchek BC - Karkara BC 21 23 28 30 31 3 4 6 7 11 13 16 18 20 23 24 27
  July August
Program of the tour:
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek. Meeting at the airport. Transfer to a hotel. Accommodation. Free time for wandering in town, visiting Osh bazaar, etc.
Day 2 Drive to Karkara (460km). Accommodation in Base Camp “Karkara”.
Day 3 Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Khan Tengry” (3,900m). Base Camp “Khan-Tengry”, is located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka Glacier, which is on the height of about 3900m.
Day 4 Familiarization with the territory the Khan Tengry Peak. Having waken up you will be impressed by a surrounding natural beauty. Acclimatization forays are waiting ahead. And you’ve got time to think and decide where you should store part of your belongings and how you’d like to spend free time in the Base Camp. You do not need to worry of your stuff if you choose using the storage room. The Base Camp’s manager (superintendent) is responsible for the whole stuff now and in case of a loss he pays with his own head! He, indeed, has got a trustworthy head, which you can rely upon. And take our good advice: do not waste your time sitting in the Base Camp all day long. It’s better spare your free time for acclimatization walks in the area. Just go and see it.
Day 5 Acclimatization foray to Peak Khan-Tengri. Continuation of familiarization with the area. Preparation for climbing.
Day 6 Base Camp (4,000m) - Camp 1 (4,200m). The itinerary begins from the Base Camp located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka Glacier, approximately at 4,000m above see level. Thence the route lies along the central part of the South Inilchek Glacier towards Camp 1 (4,200m). Camp 1 is usually set at junction between South Inilchek Glacier and Semenovskiy Glacier on the right-hand side moraine at the foot of the Peak Chapaev.
Day 7 Camp 1 (4,200m) - Camp 2 (5,300m). You uphill along the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping at the ice-fall. Upper reaches of the glacier are objectively dangerous due to possible icefalls rushing down from the Peak Chapaev and Peak Khan-Tengri. We highly recommend your very early start in the morning and going in non-stop regime for as long as possible. The icefall is passed either frontally through or bypassed on the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. Second option is faster but more risky than the first one due to high possibility of avalanches and rock-falls from the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. It is advisable that you move on the belay due to abundance of crevasses on the body of the glacier. Having passed the icefall, you carry on to the upper cirque of the Semenovskiy Glacier housing Camp 2 (5,300m). Traditionally, this camp is used during first acclimatization foray. But then at the second forays, they usually uphill from Camp 1 straight to Camp 3.
Day 8 Camp 2 (5,300m) - Camp 3 (5,900m). From Camp 2 uphill on rather gentle slope to the upper reaches of the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping towards the saddle lying between Peak Khan-Tengri and the arm of the Peak Chapaev. You set your Camp 3 (5,900m) at the left-hand side part of the saddle. You may either put up tents or dig out burrows (caves) in the snow. Should you have luck, you may find and use burrows left by somebody else climbing before you.
Day 9 Downhill to Base Camp (4,000m) along the path of uphill.
Day 10 Rest days. Use this opportunity for wandering around, exploring the picturesque environs and taking piles of unforgettable photos…
Day 11 Rest days. Use this opportunity for wandering around, exploring the picturesque environs and taking piles of unforgettable photos…
Day 12 Camp 1 (4,200m) - Camp 2 (5,200m).
Day 13 Camp 2 (5,200m) - Camp 3 (5,900m).
Day 14 Camp 3 (5,900m) - Camp 4 (6,400m). From Camp 3 the route goes on through the saddle and along the western ridge of Peak Khan-Tengri. Passage on the ridge, as a rule, is secured by ropes fixed along the whole extent of the ridge. Beware of old worn-out fixed ropes often found on the way - these are ropes left by previous expeditions and they may be dangerous. Double your attentiveness! Up to 6,900m the route goes on the rocks, then on the snow cupola that turn into the narrow snow “knife” (crest) leading to the apex. Spots good for camping are available at heights 6,200m, 6,400m and 6,700m. If needed, Camp 4 can set up there; most convenient spot is at 6,400m.
Day 15 Uphill to the top of the Peak Khan-Tengri (6.995m). Downhill to Camp 3 (5,900m).
Till altitude 6,700m you uphill on the right-hand side of the western ridge. From altitude 6,700m carry on traversing to the right towards couloir. At the beginning of the couloir there is a 10m-high rocky wall. Thence along the couloir, and keeping on the right again. Climb up the rocks to get to the small snow crest turning into the small rocky wall 20m-high giving way to the apex. The summit is marked by rather unimpressive metal tripod.
And… You are on the top, Hurray!!!! The entire Tian-Shan lies underneath your feet!!!
In case of good weather, take 20 to 30 minutes break for photographing and enjoying the moment of victory, then - start downhill, as your way down is no less hard and risky than your way up is.
Day 16 Downhill to Base Camp (4,000m) on the way of ascent.
Day 17 Reserve days in case of bad weather. Well, weather in Tian-Shan is always kind of gambling. And you’ve got to always take into account the local “master’s” mood.
Day 18 Reserve days in case of bad weather. Well, weather in Tian-Shan is always kind of gambling. And you’ve got to always take into account the local “master’s” mood.
Day 19 Helicopter flight to Karkara and further on by road to Bishkek. Accommodation at a hotel, back to the amenities of long forgotten civilization, a night’s stroll in town, free time for shopping souvenirs.
Day 20 Day at leisure. That is all. Tomorrow there is no contemplation on tactics of ascent, no planning for the current day, no hustle staffing of you backpack open to all shrilling Tian-Shan winds, no painful peering at the gorgeous and luring summit - that all is gone now. Tomorrow you are back to your everyday routine. But in the middle of humdrum life there will always be a moment of absolutely new feeling invariably bringing you back in your memories to what you once have endured, seen and felt last Summer way down at Peak Khan-Tengri. And a whisper creeping in to your ear from nowhere would suddenly say: “Hey, look, let us get back…”.
Day 21 Departure from Bishkek.
  • Full package
    - 1900 USD/pax
  • Small package
    - 1200 USD/pax
  • Group package
    - 2900 USD/pax

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2017:
Full package 1900 USD/pax

The cost of full package includes:

Meeting / transfer from / to airport of Bishkek and Almaty;
Dinners during Bishkek - Karkara transfer;
All transfers according to the program;
Arranging necessary documents (registration in immigration policy and border permit)*;
Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Khan-Tengry” and back with baggage (weight of baggage transportation is unlimited);
Services in exchanging of air and railway tickets;
Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more than 4 nights only in total!);
Services in Base Camp “Khan-Tengry” (4,000m):
- accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring and mattresses);
- meals on full board basis (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
- toilets, luggage office at Base Camp;
- sauna (steam room) at Base Camp;
- medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
- electric supply (220 V; 50 HZ);
- high-altitude guide consultancy services;
- doctor consultancy services;
- registration with rescue team;
- rent of radio stations during the ascent (only for the group with more than 3 persons);
- usage of remote wireless;
- ecological tax for staying on the territory of the camp.

The cost does not include:

Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

Extra services:

Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
International calls - 4 USD per minute;
Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.

Guide services:

1 person - 1600 USD
2 person - 900 USD per person
3 person - 700 USD per person

 

The cost of the tour «Khan-Tengry Peak» 2017:
Small package 1200 USD/pax

The cost of small package includes:

Helicopter flight to Base Camp and back with personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 4 USD per each extra kilo);
Consultation of local guide;
Consultation of doctor;
Registration with local Rescue Party;
Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
Frontier zone permit;
Usage of fixed handhold rope;
Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan.

Additional possibilities for the Small package in Base camp “Southern Inylchek”:

Cost of the accommodation and 3 meals a day in Base camp - 55 USD / 1 night/ 1 person
Accommodation - 12 USD / 1 night/ 1 person;
Breakfast - 12 USD / 1 person;
Lunch - 18 USD / 1 person;
Dinner - 18 USD / 1 person;
Sauna - 12 USD / 1 person;

Extra services:

Rent of high-altitude tent - 80 USD per program;
Gaz tanks of KOVEA company (230 g) - 9 USD per tank;
International calls - 4 USD per minute;
Set of high-altitude products - 120 USD per person.

Guide services:

1 person - 1600 USD
2 person - 900 USD per person
3 person - 700 USD per person

 

Attention!
Special offer for Khan Tengri Peak expedition 2017!
Climbing under the guidance of an experienced guide!

 

Dear friends! Many of you ask us the same question: is it possible to join any combined group with a fixed date? Because many of you don’t wish to climb the Lenin Peak alone! Somebody wants his happiness of viewing the world from such unbelievable height to be shared with the person holding the same views! So, we’ve got your point pretty well!
That is why starting from 2016 season we have launched a new option for the combined groups with the fixed dates.

Cost of special program in 2017
The cost of the tour for 1 person: 2900 USD/pax

Cost includes services of full package with additional services:

Professional mountaineering guide:
- group of 1-3 pax - 1 guide;
- group of 4-6 pax - 1 guide and 1 guide’s assistant;
- group of 7-10 pax - 1 guide and 2 guide’s assistants.
Installed high-altitude tents (3 pax in 1 tent!);
Group mountaineering equipment: ropes (if needed), gas cartridges and gas stoves, cooking set;
High-altitude food (see the list in attachment);
Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
Transfer airport in Bishkek - hotel - airport in Bishkek;
Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
Helicopter flight to BC and back;
Unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
Accommodation in double tents with full board at BC «South Inylchek»;
Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC «South Inylchek»;
Consultation of local guide:
Consultation of doctor;
Registration with local Rescue Party;
Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
Usage of fixed ropes on the route;
Change of air-flight and railway tickets;
Frontier zone permit;
Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed).

Important!!! Everyone who applies to join any combined group must plan his/her arrival date so as he/she has already arrived to the Bishkek till the starting date of the active part (see table above, column “Starting date of the active part”).

You can also enjoy additional services, but for an additional fee according to price list.

In order to receive admission in the area of border control and registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs you should send the following passport information: a copy of the passport or: full name, date of birth, nationality, passport number, as well as the planned dates of your stay. Registration must be done no later than one month before your arrival!

We are waiting for your applications, friends! And we’ll gladly answer all your questions!


  • FAQ
  • Visas, Permits.
    Route Map

  • Important information

 

Frequently asked questions

  1. How do I book services of high-altitude guide?
  2. Should mountaineers have the insurance?
  3. What are minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Khan-Tengri Peak?
  4. What about meals?
  5. What kind of climbing equipment do I need?
  6. What currency is in circulation in the Base Camp?
  7. How do I pay for my tour?
  8. Are there fixed ropes along the route of ascent?
  9. Which documents should I have and what is the procedure of registration in OVIR (local registration department)?
  10. Where can I buy the permit for ascent?

1. How do I book services of high-altitude guide?
You may order for the services of high-altitude guide beforehand through e-mail while in the correspondence with our agency.

The cost of the guide’s services:

1 person - 1600 USD
2 persons - 900 USD per person
3 persons - 700 USD per person

2. Should mountaineers have the insurance?
The insurance is compulsory and always advisable in case of unforeseen circumstances.
Common sense has to provide it in order to feel safety on a mountain, as the services of rescue team costs a lot.
We suggest total sum insured for your extreme mountaineering policy to be 30,000 USD per person per accident.
The most expensive part is usage of a helicopter.
We don’t arrange policy. It’s necessary to get it in your country before the expedition.

3. What are minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Khan-Tengri Peak?
Khan-Tengri Peak is a difficult summit to climb, as technically so as physically. You shouldn’t try to make an ascent having experience of some easy routes and without certain climbing experience.Traditionally before the meeting with this Mountain, it’s better to make ascents to the peaks: Lenin Peak, Muztag-Ata Peak. They are not so difficult technically, but allow understanding how altitude influences your organism.Essential is your sound physical sporting conditions and good acclimatization (especially if you don’t have any previous high-altitude ascent experience). You can begin to train and acclimatize even before the arrival to the Base Camp, as it’s located at the height of 4000m. If you have no such opportunity, it’s necessary to do it on the glacier of Southern Inylchek. There are a lot of possibilities for such acclimatization routes. (Look information about routes here and at our web-site)There is one more important factor - person who’s going with you. Though everybody’s “dying” alone there should be the person who can share the difficulty of the expedition with you - share tent, meal, rope, gas. To have such experienced man in the team is very important: he won’t panic in any extreme situation and help you with advice or action at right moment. We suggest that you book services of our mountain guide.
Do not forget to see our doctor before starting the climb!

4. What about meals?
You will be provided with 3-time-a-day full meals at the Base Camp. But at Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4 you will have to organise your own meals. So, highly suggested that you bring your high-altitude foodstuff with you (from country of your original departure), as you won’t be able to find it in Bishkek.

5. What kind of climbing equipment do I need?
Extreme and unpredictable weather, altitude and expedition itself demands reliable equipment. In order to succeed in ascending to Khan-Tengri Peak we would suggest that your high-quality reliable climbing equipment would include as follows: a pair of high-altitude mountain plastic double boots, a pair of tracking boots/shoes. Shoes should be free and comfortable upon walking. Warm breeches for the height higher than 4500m, warm mittens, gloves, a warm hat, a cap, a rainproof costume, woollen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket, a high-altitude tent, a rug/sleeping pad, a down sleeping-bag (capable of withstanding a frost down to -10C - - 20C), a rucksack (60-100 litre big), , high-altitude sun glasses (make sure you have a spare one!), a tube of UV skin protection cream (factor 25 and higher), a lipstick, a face-protecting mask, a personal high-altitude first-aid kit, a pair of telescopic ski poles, an ice-axe, crampons, a helmet, a basic rope (8-11 mm diameter, 20-30m long), safety system (a “cradle”), “jumar”, carabineers (3-5 pieces), ice- screws (2 pieces), a safety halyard (diameter 4-5 mm, 2-3 m long), a head- or flash-light, a down jacket and pants.

6. What currency is in circulation in the Base Camp?
In Bishkek (starting point) you can change your hard currency into local currency - Som. At the Base Camp traditionally US dollars, Euro, Kyrgyz Som are used.

7. How do I pay for my tour?
Order of payment:
- Member’s request for participation in Khan-Tengry / (Pobeda) peak expedition is registered after making 30% pre-payment from the cost of chosen package, it should be done not later then 1 month before the date of season starts (July 15th). Member should send to us scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.
- Not later then 2 weeks before the date of arrival member should confirm (or cancel) his participation in the program, and he should make payment of the rest sum from chosen package, having sent to us scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.

8. Are there fixed ropes along the route of ascent?
Yes, there are fixed ropes along the route. The route of ascent along Western ridge has fixed ropes at all dangerous and difficult parts. Our high-altitude guides do it at the beginning of the season. Fixed ropes will make you ascent easier up to the summit and they will be very useful for fast descent to the Base Camp. Be careful while choosing the rope: there are often old and shabby ropes along the route!

9. Which documents should I have and what is the procedure of registration in OVIR (local registration department)?
It’s necessary to have passport upon arrival to the country.
For free staying on the territory of Kyrgyzstan and in the Base Camp you must get registration in OVIR (local registration department) during 5 days. Also it’s necessary to have a border permit, because state border with China goes quite close.
The permit is arranged for a long time, that’s why it’s better to send your passport details a month before arrival. We need the following:
- Full name
- № of passport
- The place and date of issue
- The date of birth
- The place of birth
- Home stay

10. Where can I buy the permit for ascent?
You don’t need the permit for ascent.

 

Visas, Permits

For issuing a frontier zone permit and for registration in the Ministry of Home Affairs’ authorities it is necessary (not later than 1 month before your arrival) to send us the following passport data: passport copy, or: your full name, date of birth, nationality, passport number, and planned period of your staying in Kyrgyzstan.

In the beginning of August 2012 a law “About introduction of a visa-free regime for citizens of some states within 60 days” came into force. According to this law, the citizens of 44 countries from the list below have a right to enter Kyrgyzstan and stay on the territory of this republic without Kyrgyz visa during 60 days (not longer). This considerably simplifies a possibility of coming to Kyrgyzstan, cuts down expenses, and gives a significant advantage to those of our travelers who earlier had to buy the package with the option of arrival and departure via Bishkek, as it was possible to get Kyrgyz visa only at the Consular department of “Manas” airport on arrival. Now participants from 44 countries may arrive directly to Osh by means of new flight of Turkish airlines TK-360, in case this option is more convenient to someone. Other options of arrival and departure (via Tashkent or Bishkek) are also available.

The list of the states concerning which citizens the unilateral visa-free regime within 60 days is entered:

1. Australian Union
2. Republic of Austria
3. Kingdom of Belgium
4. Bosnia and Herzegovina
5. Vatican
6. United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Northern Ireland
7. Hungary
8. German Federal Republic
9. Kingdom of the Netherlands
10. Greek Republic
11. Kingdom of Denmark
12. Iceland
13. Ireland
14. Kingdom of Spain
15. Italian Republic
16. Canada
17. Republic of Korea
18. State of Kuwait
19. Latvian Republic
20. Lithuanian Republic
21. Principality of Liechtenstein
22. Great Duchy of Luxembourg
23. Republic of Malta
24. Principality of Monaco
25. New Zealand
26. Kingdom Norway
27. United Arab Emirates
28. Republic of Poland
29. Portuguese Republic
30. Kingdom Saudi Arabia
31. Republic of Singapore
32. Slovak Republic
33. Republic of Slovenia
34. United States of America
35. Finnish Republic
36. French Republic
37. Republic of Croatia
38. Czech Republic
39. Swiss Confederation
40. Kingdom of Sweden
41. Estonian Republic
42. State of Qatar
43. State of Brunei-Darussalam
44. Kingdom of Bahrain

** Note: If you plan to ascend Pobeda Peak after you have ascended Khan-Tengri, you do not have to pay for doing so additionally.

Route Map

Route Map

 

Tactic of ascention to Khan-Tengry Peak

Scheme of expedition to Khan-Tengry Peak

Base Camp (4000 m) to Camp 1 (4200 m).
The route begins from the BC located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka glacier, approximately at 4,000m above see level. Thence the route lies along the central part of the South Inilchek Glacier towards Camp 1 (4,200m). Camp 1 is usually set at junction between South Inilchek Glacier and Semenovskiy Glacier on the right-hand side moraine at the foot of the Peak Chapaev.

Camp 1 (4200 m) to Camp 2 (5300 m).
You uphill along the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping at the ice-fall. Upper reaches of the glacier are objectively dangerous due to possible icefalls rushing down from the Peak Chapaev and Peak Khan-Tengri. We highly recommend your very early start in the morning and going in non-stop regime for as long as possible. The icefall is passed either frontally through or bypassed on the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. Second option is faster but more risky than the first one due to high possibility of avalanches and rock-falls from the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. It is advisable that you move on the belay due to abundance of crevasses on the body of the glacier. Having passed the icefall, you carry on to the upper cirque of the Semenovskiy Glacier housing Camp 2 (5,300m). Traditionally, this camp is used during first acclimatization foray. But then at the second foray they usually uphill from Camp 1 straight to Camp 3.

Camp 2 (5300 m) to Camp 3 (5900 m).
From Camp 2 uphill on rather gentle slope to the upper reaches of the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping towards the saddle lying between Peak Khan-Tengri and the arm of the Peak Chapaev. You set your Camp 3 (5,900m) at the left-hand-side part of the saddle. You may either put up tents or dig out burrows (caves) in the snow. Should you have luck, you may find and use burrows left by somebody else climbing before you.

Camp 3 (5,900m) to Camp 4 (6400 m).
From Camp 3 the route goes on through the saddle and along the western ridge of Peak Khan-Tengri. Passage on the ridge, as a rule, is secured by ropes fixed along the whole extent of the ridge. Beware of old worn-out fixed ropes often found on the way – these are ropes left by previous expeditions and they may be dangerous. Double your attentiveness! Up to 6,900m the route goes on the rocks, then on the snow cupola that turn into the narrow snow “knife” (crest) leading to the apex. Spots good for camping are available at heights 6200 m, 6400 m and 6700 m. If needed, Camp 4 can set up there; most convenient spot is at 6400 m.

Uphill to the top of the Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m). Downhill to Camp 3 (5900 m).
Till altitude 6,700m you uphill on the right-hand side of the western ridge. From altitude 6,700m carry on traversing to the right towards couloir. Take up the rocky wall 10m-high at the mouth of the couloir. Thence along the couloir, then keeping on the right again. Climb up the rocks to get to the small snow crest turning into the small rocky wall 20m-high giving way to the apex. The summit is marked by rather unimpressive metal tripod.
You are on the top, Hurray! The entire Tian- Shan lies underneath your feet! In case of good weather, take 20 to 30 minutes’ break for photographing and enjoying the moment of victory, then – begin downhill, as your way down is no less hard and risky than your way up is.

to the top »»

Personal and group equipment for
expedition to Khan-Tengry Peak (7010m)

  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
1 Track shoes pair 1 -
2 Shoes for the high attitude roads pair 1 -
3 Assault jacket GOR-TEX piece 1 -
4 Assault trousers GOR-TEX piece 1 -
5 Downy jacket piece 1 -
6 Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX piece 1 -
7 Downy sleeping bag piece 1 -
8 Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR piece 1 -
9 Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK piece 2 -
10 Mittens for the high attitude ascents pair 1 -
11 Gloves pair 2 -
12 Peaked worm cap or hat piece 1 -
13 Flasks - - -
14 Socks-POLAR pair 3 -
15 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre piece 1 -
16 Mat "KARIMAT" piece 1 -
17 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 piece 1 -
18 Clumps-right and left piece 1 -
19 Belay arrangement “figure of 8 knot” piece 1 -
20 Necking-belay system complete set 1 -
21 Carabin with muff piece 2-3 -
22 Snow shovel piece 1 -
23 Hygienic lip-stick piece 1 -
24 Solar control cream piece 1 -
25 Transport trunk piece 1 -
26 Pen knife piece 1 -
27 Crampons pair 1 -
28 Ice-axe piece 1 -
29 Snow goggles piece 1 -
30 Telescopic stick pair 1 -
31 Head torch piece 1 -
32 Rope (nylon) 25-30 m piece 1 -
33 Rocky hook, titanic complete set -
34 Mortgage components «Clamps» complete set 3 -
35 Mortgage components «Fredni» complete set 3 -
36 Ice hooks «bore for drilling ice», titanic piece 6 -
37 Snow anchors piece 2 -
38 Rocky hammer piece 1 -
39 Safety loops 5 i. piece 3 -
40 Protective helmet piece 1 -
41 Tent 2-3 m piece 1 for 2-3 person
42 Gas stove piece 1 for 2-3 person
43 Gas cylinder (230 ml.) piece 1 for 2-3 person
44 Dishes complete set 1 for 2-3 person
45 Radio station metric waves complete set 1 for 2-3 person
46 First-aid kit complete set 1 for 2-3 person

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Medical chest of the climbers

The list of medicaments that are used during the climbing to the Khan-Tengry Peak 7010 m Quantity
Dekamevit (vitamins) pills
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) pills
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning on height) pills
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) pills
Nifidepine (edema of the lungs) pills
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) pills
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) inj. By 1 ml.
Dexamethasone pills
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) pills
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) pills
Trental (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml.
Riboksin (to improve one’s heart/liver function) pills
Ksantinola nicotine (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills,inj by 2ml.
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) pills
Furosemide (diuretic) pills
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) pills
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) inj. By 2 ml.
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) pills
Verospirone (diuretic) pills

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