Tactic of ascention to Khan-Tengry Peak
Base Camp (4000 m) to Camp 1 (4200 m).
The route begins from the BC located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka glacier, approximately at 4,000m above see level. Thence the route lies along the central part of the South Inilchek Glacier towards Camp 1 (4,200m). Camp 1 is usually set at junction between South Inilchek Glacier and Semenovskiy Glacier on the right-hand side moraine at the foot of the Peak Chapaev.
Camp 1 (4200 m) to Camp 2 (5300 m).
You uphill along the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping at the ice-fall. Upper reaches of the glacier are objectively dangerous due to possible icefalls rushing down from the Peak Chapaev and Peak Khan-Tengri. We highly recommend your very early start in the morning and going in non-stop regime for as long as possible. The icefall is passed either frontally through or bypassed on the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. Second option is faster but more risky than the first one due to high possibility of avalanches and rock-falls from the slopes of the Peak Chapaev. It is advisable that you move on the belay due to abundance of crevasses on the body of the glacier. Having passed the icefall, you carry on to the upper cirque of the Semenovskiy Glacier housing Camp 2 (5,300m). Traditionally, this camp is used during first acclimatization foray. But then at the second foray they usually uphill from Camp 1 straight to Camp 3.
Camp 2 (5300 m) to Camp 3 (5900 m).
From Camp 2 uphill on rather gentle slope to the upper reaches of the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping towards the saddle lying between Peak Khan-Tengri and the arm of the Peak Chapaev. You set your Camp 3 (5,900m) at the left-hand-side part of the saddle. You may either put up tents or dig out burrows (caves) in the snow. Should you have luck, you may find and use burrows left by somebody else climbing before you.
Camp 3 (5,900m) to Camp 4 (6400 m).
From Camp 3 the route goes on through the saddle and along the western ridge of Peak Khan-Tengri. Passage on the ridge, as a rule, is secured by ropes fixed along the whole extent of the ridge. Beware of old worn-out fixed ropes often found on the way – these are ropes left by previous expeditions and they may be dangerous. Double your attentiveness! Up to 6,900m the route goes on the rocks, then on the snow cupola that turn into the narrow snow “knife” (crest) leading to the apex. Spots good for camping are available at heights 6200 m, 6400 m and 6700 m. If needed, Camp 4 can set up there; most convenient spot is at 6400 m.
Uphill to the top of the Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m). Downhill to Camp 3 (5900 m).
Till altitude 6,700m you uphill on the right-hand side of the western ridge. From altitude 6,700m carry on traversing to the right towards couloir. Take up the rocky wall 10m-high at the mouth of the couloir. Thence along the couloir, then keeping on the right again. Climb up the rocks to get to the small snow crest turning into the small rocky wall 20m-high giving way to the apex. The summit is marked by rather unimpressive metal tripod.
You are on the top, Hurray! The entire Tian- Shan lies underneath your feet! In case of good weather, take 20 to 30 minutes’ break for photographing and enjoying the moment of victory, then – begin downhill, as your way down is no less hard and risky than your way up is.