Frequently asked questions
- How do I book services of high-altitude guide?
- Should mountaineers have the insurance?
- What are minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Khan-Tengri Peak?
- What about meals?
- What kind of climbing equipment do I need?
- What currency is in circulation in the Base Camp?
- How do I pay for my tour?
- Are there fixed ropes along the route of ascent?
- Which documents should I have and what is the procedure of registration in OVIR (local registration department)?
- Where can I buy the permit for ascent?
1. How do I book services of high-altitude guide?
You may order for the services of high-altitude guide beforehand through e-mail while in the correspondence with our agency.
The cost of the guide’s services:
|1 person||- 1600 USD|
|2 persons||- 900 USD per person|
|3 persons||- 700 USD per person|
2. Should mountaineers have the insurance?
The insurance is compulsory and always advisable in case of unforeseen circumstances.
Common sense has to provide it in order to feel safety on a mountain, as the services of rescue team costs a lot.
We suggest total sum insured for your extreme mountaineering policy to be EUR 15,000 to EUR 20,000 per person per accident.
The most expensive part is usage of a helicopter.
We don’t arrange policy. It’s necessary to get it in your country before the expedition.
3. What are minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Khan-Tengri Peak?
Khan-Tengri Peak is a difficult summit to climb, as technically so as physically. You shouldn’t try to make an ascent having experience of some easy routes and without certain climbing experience.Traditionally before the meeting with this Mountain, it’s better to make ascents to the peaks: Lenin Peak, Muztag-Ata Peak. They are not so difficult technically, but allow understanding how altitude influences your organism.Essential is your sound physical sporting conditions and good acclimatization (especially if you don’t have any previous high-altitude ascent experience). You can begin to train and acclimatize even before the arrival to the Base Camp, as it’s located at the height of 4000m. If you have no such opportunity, it’s necessary to do it on the glacier of Southern Inylchek. There are a lot of possibilities for such acclimatization routes. (Look information about routes here and at our web-site)There is one more important factor - person who’s going with you. Though everybody’s “dying” alone there should be the person who can share the difficulty of the expedition with you - share tent, meal, rope, gas. To have such experienced man in the team is very important: he won’t panic in any extreme situation and help you with advice or action at right moment. We suggest that you book services of our mountain guide.
Do not forget to see our doctor before starting the climb!
4. What about meals?
You will be provided with 3-time-a-day full meals at the Base Camp. But at Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4 you will have to organise your own meals. So, highly suggested that you bring your high-altitude foodstuff with you (from country of your original departure), as you won’t be able to find it in Bishkek.
5. What kind of climbing equipment do I need?
Extreme and unpredictable weather, altitude and expedition itself demands reliable equipment. In order to succeed in ascending to Khan-Tengri Peak we would suggest that your high-quality reliable climbing equipment would include as follows: a pair of high-altitude mountain plastic double boots, a pair of tracking boots/shoes. Shoes should be free and comfortable upon walking. Warm breeches for the height higher than 4500m, warm mittens, gloves, a warm hat, a cap, a rainproof costume, woollen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket, a high-altitude tent, a rug/sleeping pad, a down sleeping-bag (capable of withstanding a frost down to -10C - - 20C), a rucksack (60-100 litre big), , high-altitude sun glasses (make sure you have a spare one!), a tube of UV skin protection cream (factor 25 and higher), a lipstick, a face-protecting mask, a personal high-altitude first-aid kit, a pair of telescopic ski poles, an ice-axe, crampons, a helmet, a basic rope (8-11 mm diameter, 20-30m long), safety system (a “cradle”), “jumar”, carabineers (3-5 pieces), ice- screws (2 pieces), a safety halyard (diameter 4-5 mm, 2-3 m long), a head- or flash-light, a down jacket and pants.
6. What currency is in circulation in the Base Camp?
In Bishkek (starting point) you can change your hard currency into local currency - Som. At the Base Camp traditionally US dollars, Euro, Kyrgyz Som are used.
7. How do I pay for my tour?
Order of payment:
- Member’s request for participation in Khan-Tengry / (Pobeda) peak expedition is registered after making 30% pre-payment from the cost of chosen package, it should be done not later then 1 month before the date of season starts (July 15th). Member should send to us scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.
- Not later then 2 weeks before the date of arrival member should confirm (or cancel) his participation in the program, and he should make payment of the rest sum from chosen package, having sent to us scanned copy of payment order by e-mail.
8. Are there fixed ropes along the route of ascent?
Yes, there are fixed ropes along the route. The route of ascent along Western ridge has fixed ropes at all dangerous and difficult parts. Our high-altitude guides do it at the beginning of the season. Fixed ropes will make you ascent easier up to the summit and they will be very useful for fast descent to the Base Camp. Be careful while choosing the rope: there are often old and shabby ropes along the route!
9. Which documents should I have and what is the procedure of registration in OVIR (local registration department)?
It’s necessary to have passport upon arrival to the country.
For free staying on the territory of Kyrgyzstan and in the Base Camp you must get registration in OVIR (local registration department) during 5 days. Also it’s necessary to have a border permit, because state border with China goes quite close.
The permit is arranged for a long time, that’s why it’s better to send your passport details a month before arrival. We need the following:
- Full name
- № of passport
- The place and date of issue
- The date of birth
- The place of birth
- Home stay
10. Where can I buy the permit for ascent?
You don’t need the permit for ascent.