Tactic of ascention to Communism Peak.


The easiest and the most popular program of ascent to Communism Peak is the way from the north from Walter glacier. It was discovered in 1968 by the team of Moscow mountaineers under the guidance of Borodkin along the ridge, which was named after him subsequently. An average group having enough good acclimatization has the following schedule of moving to the plateau with descent to the Base Camp:

1 step. From the Base Camp located on a green Moskvina Glade (4200 m) the route goes along the path along Walter glacier, then crosses the glacier. The ascent to the Camp 1 (5З00 m) above the top of a rocky triangle goes on steep scree ridge. More often this rocky triangle is passed around from the left side along snowy sloping bridge. But this way is more dangerous, as it goes under a cornice glacier.

2 step. From the Camp 1 up to snowy caps of “bosom” (6200 m) the route goes along snowy ridge with small icy rises. The path is beaten here in a high season, and rope is fixed in the most difficult points. There is a short descent from “bosom” to the Camp 3 (6100 m) that is located on Big Pamir Plateau.

3 step. Crossing the plateau and ascending to the Camp 4 (6400 m) along flat wide snowy ridge.

4 step. Continuation of the ascent goes on the ridge along the southeast rocky spur to the western side or so-called Dushanbe Peak (6950 m). An assault camp is located in snowy mold at height of 6900 m (4-6 hours of walking, it depends on the condition of snow).

5 step. The route to the summit goes by traverse to the left along a steep glacier snow under rocks to the barricade at first, and then about 300 m – along the northern steep (40°) ridge. Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp 3.

6 step. Descent to the Base Camp.
The one of the fastest ascents to Communism Peak was made in 1990 by V. Obihod and E. Klinetskiy. They spent about 20 hours (descent is included), they didn’t put a bivouac, mounted the differential of heights of 3300 meters.

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