Communism Peak

 

Country of destination: Tajikistan View the route map »»
Tour itinerary, cities: Dushanbe - Base Camp
Tour duration: 27 days / 26 nights
Best time to travel: 22.07 - 27.08

Communism Peak is the highest peak on the territory of former USSR; very impressive and well-known one, that is located in the Northern-West part of Pamir. The peak was discovered in 1928, during Soviet-German scientific expedition and at first till 1962 was called Stalin peak, then it was renamed as Communism Peak. In 1999 when Tajikistan became an independent state it was renamed again as Ismail Somoni peak, in honour of the founder of the first state of Tajiks (in X century).
The capital of Tajikistan - Dushanbe - is the departure point of the expedition. The most convenient option of approach is the option of arrival to Dushanbe by international flights, for present there are international flights from Istanbul, Munich and Moscow. The option of arrival to Dushanbe from Tashkent (via Samarkand) seems interesting for those who want to make a sightseeing program along the world famous sights of Samarkand after finish the expedition.
There is only one possible option of getting to the Base camp of Communism Peak from Dushanbe for present - a helicopter flight. Now there are no any opportunities for walking passing that was possible several years ago because of difficulties of passing. There are two options of getting to the Base camp of Communism Peak on Moskvina Glade:
- Directly from Dushanbe.
- By car from Djirgital and further flight.
The Base camp is on the height of 4200 m. above sea level, near the confluence of the glaciers Walter and Moskvina (the Eastern branches of the glacier Fortambek). It’s the most convenient and safe departure point for ascending to Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks because of the shorter approaches.
After the flight to the Base camp we recommend you to make a wonderful 2-4 days long trip via the glacier Fortambek to Suloeva glade. You can enjoy the views of such Pamir giants, as Russia peak, Moscow peak, the glacier Tramplinnyi - the spring of continual falling avalanches.
Vorob’eva peak (5691 m) and Chetyreh peak (6299 m) are used for acclimatization very often. They are located quite nearby the Base camp. It’s possible to ascend to Vorob’eva peak for one day, to Chetyreh peak - for 2-3 days.
The two peaks - Vorob’eva and Chetyreh have many points of visibility. You can see fantastic panoramas to the surrounding peaks, especially to the highest of them: Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks.
You have to take into account the altitude of Communism peak overtops 7000 m and that’s implies high-altitude climbing. The route to the top is technically difficult and existence of such crafty factors as unpredictable weather and pressing height can play a determinative role in success or failure of your expedition. For successful expedition you would be required good physical training, essential equipment and correct acclimatization.

Preliminary dates helicopter flights:
To Base Camp 22.07 25.07 29.07 01.08
From Base Camp 17.08 20.08 26.08 27.08
Program of the tour «Communism Peak»:
Day 1 Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel, accommodation. Free time for walking in the city, visiting the bazaar and so on.
Day 2 Transfer to the airport, flight to Moskvina glade, accommodation in the Base camp of Communism Peak.
Day 3 Acquaintance with area. Preparation day for ascent.
Day 4 Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (5691m). Night at Camp 1 (5300 m).
Day 5 Expedition to Vorobiova Peak. Descent to the Base Camp of Communism Peak.
Day 6-7 Rest days.
Day 8 Acclimatization climb to Communism Peak. Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m.). The route goes along the right side of the glacier Walter to the helicopter field, then it crosses the glacier ander the beginning of Borodkina ridge.
Day 9 Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m.)
Day 10 Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 11 Rest day. You have a good possibility to walk around the picturesque environs, to make many colorful pictures.
Day 12 Rest day.
Day 13 Ascent to the Camp 1 (5100 m).
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5800 m).
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 3 on Pamir plateau. Early in the morning we begin the ascent to the two-headed summit so called "bosom".
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 4 on Dushanbe Peak (6900 m). The part is not difficult technically; we are moving in links along the Northern snowy-icy slope to Dushanbe Peak, not reaching the top, making the traverse to the left. If you don’t have strength enough, you can put the camp at 6400 m or 6700 m.
Day 17 Ascent to the summit - 7495 m. The route goes along the steep snowy slope at the left side of the rocks (trapezium), then along snowy-icy "knife" of the crest. The summit looks like a small rocky field with memorable plates.That’s the summit!
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 2 (5800 m).
Day 19 Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 20-25 Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 26 Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 27 Departure from Dushanbe.

  • Full package
    - 1795 EURO/pax.
  • Small package
    - 1095 EURO/pax.
  • Tactic of ascention.
    Route map
  • Equipment.
    Medical chest
  • Information about base camps

 

The cost of the tour «Communism Peak»:
Full package 1795 EURO/pax.

The cost of full package includes:

Arranging necessary documents;
Meeting / transfer from / to airport;
All transfers according to the program;
Helicopter flights Dushanbe - BC (Moskvina Glade) - Dushanbe with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment - 3 EUR / kg);
Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights);
Services in Base Camp of Communism Peak:
- accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting);
- full boarding (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
- toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC;
- sauna (steam room) at BC;
- medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
- electric supply 220V; 50HZ;
- high-altitude guide consultancy services;
- registration with rescue team.

The cost does not include:

The cost of visa support (24 EUR / pax);
Document of acceptance of tourist (7 EUR / pax);
Tajikistan visa (48 EUR / pax);
Services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
Rent of mountaineering gear;
Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

Base camp Communism Peak put at your disposal:

Stationary dining room for 80 people - ideal and the coziest place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, audio and videotape recorders, chess, checkers and backgammon;
Canvas tents (2 persons per tent) put upon woody pallets with mattresses and electricity;
Shower / sauna;
City version of WC - it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror in each Camp;
Cloak-room;
Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced doctor-reanimation with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour;
Volleyball play-field. Long live sport and international tournaments of volleyball!!!;
Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000 m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend;
3 times hot meal from professional cooks whose experience of work no less than 10 years;
Internet and satellite telephone;
Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; priming of gas canisters.

Additional services in Base Camp Communism Peak:

Filling of gas canisters (230 mg) - 3 EUR / gas canister;
New gas canisters (230 mg) - 8 EUR / gas canister (reduction 1,5 EUR for return of used canister);
Satellite phone, e-mail, bar - according to price list of the Base Camp;
Rent of radio station - 5 EUR / pair (per day);
The services of a mountain guide - 50 EUR / day;
The services of porters for ascending: (4200 - 5300 m) - 8 EUR / kg, (5300 - 5800 m) - 12 EUR / kg, (5800 - 6300 m) - 20 EUR / kg, (> 6300 m) - 28 EUR / kg.

 

The cost of the tour «Communism Peak»:
Small package 1095 EURO/pax.

The cost of small package includes:

Arranging necessary documents;
Transfer Dushanbe - Jirgatol - Dushanbe;
Helicopter flights Jirgatol - BC (Moskvina Glade) - Jirgatol with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment - 3 EUR / kg);
Accommodation in Dushanbe (guest house, 2 nights);
Services in Base Camp of Communism Peak:
- toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC;
- electric supply 220V; 50HZ;
- high-altitude guide consultancy services;
- registration with rescue team;
- use of camp infrastructure (water, medical center, place for tents).

The cost does not include:

The cost of visa support (24 EUR / pax);
Document of acceptance of tourist (7 EUR / pax);
Tajikistan visa (48 EUR / pax);
Services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
Rent of mountaineering gear;
Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.

Base camp Communism Peak put at your disposal:

Stationary dining room for 80 people - ideal and the coziest place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, audio and videotape recorders, chess, checkers and backgammon;
Canvas tents (2 persons per tent) put upon woody pallets with mattresses and electricity;
Shower / sauna;
City version of WC - it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror in each Camp;
Cloak-room;
Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced doctor-reanimation with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour;
Volleyball play-field. Long live sport and international tournaments of volleyball!!!;
Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000 m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend;
3 times hot meal from professional cooks whose experience of work no less than 10 years;
Internet and satellite telephone;
Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; priming of gas canisters.

Additional services in Base Camp Communism Peak:

Filling of gas canisters (230 mg) - 3 EUR / gas canister;
New gas canisters (230 mg) - 8 EUR / gas canister (reduction 1,5 EUR for return of used canister);
Satellite phone, e-mail, bar - according to price list of the Base Camp;
Rent of radio station - 5 EUR / pair (per day);
The services of a mountain guide - 50 EUR / day;
The services of porters for ascending: (4200 - 5300 m) - 8 EUR / kg, (5300 - 5800 m) - 12 EUR / kg, (5800 - 6300 m) - 20 EUR / kg, (> 6300 m) - 28 EUR / kg.

 

Tactic of ascention to Communism Peak

The easiest and the most popular program of ascent to Communism Peak is the way from the north from Walter glacier. It was discovered in 1968 by the team of Moscow mountaineers under the guidance of Borodkin along the ridge, which was named after him subsequently. An average group having enough good acclimatization has the following schedule of moving to the plateau with descent to the Base Camp:

1 step. From the Base Camp located on a green Moskvina Glade (4200 m) the route goes along the path along Walter glacier, then crosses the glacier. The ascent to the Camp 1 (5З00 m) above the top of a rocky triangle goes on steep scree ridge. More often this rocky triangle is passed around from the left side along snowy sloping bridge. But this way is more dangerous, as it goes under a cornice glacier.

2 step. From the Camp 1 up to snowy caps of “bosom” (6200 m) the route goes along snowy ridge with small icy rises. The path is beaten here in a high season, and rope is fixed in the most difficult points. There is a short descent from “bosom” to the Camp 3 (6100 m) that is located on Big Pamir Plateau.

3 step. Crossing the plateau and ascending to the Camp 4 (6400 m) along flat wide snowy ridge.

4 step. Continuation of the ascent goes on the ridge along the southeast rocky spur to the western side or so-called Dushanbe Peak (6950 m). An assault camp is located in snowy mold at height of 6900 m (4-6 hours of walking, it depends on the condition of snow).

5 step. The route to the summit goes by traverse to the left along a steep glacier snow under rocks to the barricade at first, and then about 300 m - along the northern steep (40°) ridge. Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp 3.

6 step. Descent to the Base Camp.
The one of the fastest ascents to Communism Peak was made in 1990 by V. Obihod and E. Klinetskiy. They spent about 20 hours (descent is included), they didn’t put a bivouac, mounted the differential of heights of 3300 meters.

Route map

Route map

 

Personal and group equipment for expedition to the Communism Peak (7495 m)

  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
  Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes
1 Track shoes pair 1 -
2 Shoes for the high attitude roads pair 1 -
3 Assault jacket GOR-TEX piece 1 -
4 Assault trousers GOR-TEX piece 1 -
5 Downy jacket piece 1 -
6 Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX piece 1 -
7 Downy sleeping bag piece 1 -
8 Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR piece 1 -
9 Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK piece 2 -
10 Mittens for the high attitude ascents pair 1 -
11 Gloves pair 2 -
12 Peaked worm cap or hat piece 1 -
13 Flasks - - -
14 Socks-POLAR pair 3 -
15 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre piece 1 -
16 Mat "KARIMAT" piece 1 -
17 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 piece 1 -
18 Clumps-right and left piece 1 -
19 Belay arrangement “figure of 8 knot” piece 1 -
20 Necking-belay system complete set 1 -
21 Carabin with muff piece 2-3 -
22 Snow shovel piece 1 -
23 Hygienic lip-stick piece 1 -
24 Solar control cream piece 1 -
25 Transport trunk piece 1 -
26 Pen knife piece 1 -
27 Crampons pair 1 -
28 Ice-axe piece 1 -
29 Snow goggles piece 1 -
30 Telescopic stick pair 1 -
31 Head torch piece 1 -
32 Rope (nylon) 25-30 m piece 1 -
33 Rocky hook, titanic complete set 3 -
34 Mortgage components «Clamps» complete set 3 -
35 Mortgage components «Fredni» complete set 3 -
36 Ice hooks «bore for drilling ice», titanic piece 6 -
37 Snow anchors piece 2 -
38 Rocky hammer piece 1 -
39 Safety loops 5 i. piece 3 -
40 Protective helmet piece 1 -
41 Tent 2-3 m piece 1 for 2-3 person
42 Gas stove piece 1 for 2-3 person
43 Gas cylinder (230 ml.) piece 1 for 2-3 person
44 Dishes complete set 1 for 2-3 person
45 Radio station metric waves complete set 1 for 2-3 person
46 First-aid kit complete set 1 for 2-3 person

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Medical chest of the climbers

The list of medicaments that are used during the climbing to the Communism Peak Quantity
Dekamevit (vitamins) pills
Methionine (amino acid to master fat and proteins) pills
Glutamic acid (that is necessary for your brain normal functioning on height) pills
Ascorutine acid (vitamins) pills
Nifidepine (edema of the lungs) pills
Asparkam (for the improvement of heart muscles) pills
Dexamethasone (edema of the brain) inj. By 1 ml.
Dexamethasone pills
Azetozolamide (prevention of mountain diseases) pills
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) pills
Trental (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills, 2 inj. By 5 ml.
Riboksin (to improve one’s heart/liver function) pills
Ksantinola nicotine (widen peripheral vessels against frostbite) pills,inj by 2ml.
Potassium (vitamin B 12, antistrophic, normalize heart/liver function, circulation of capillary) pills
Furosemide (diuretic) pills
Aminophuline (stimulant never used) pills
Sulphokamokaine (breathe/heart stimulant) inj. By 2 ml.
Ferramine-vita (or any other iron preparation) pills
Verospirone (diuretic) pills

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Information about base camps of Communism Peak

An international camp for alpinists is situated on sub alpine zone, in height more than 4200 km. over sea level; on eastern bank terrace, on eastern glaciers of “Valter” and” Moskvina” (The eastern tributary of the glacier Fortambek) and being the most convenient starting base for subjugation of the peak of “Communism” and “Korjehnevskoy” because of the most short approaches to them. The common area of the glacier “Moskvina” is about 10 hectare and it is much safe even in case of rock sliding and avalanching.
There is a lake on the glacier “Moskvina” that is nourished by many springs. On the glacier “Moskvina” Diesel-generator is the main source of the electricity. The thermal electricity for preparing food is a natural gas. Iron tanks with diesel fuels and container with natural gas are brought with the help of helicopters from Dushanbe. A very convenient area for helicopters is also situated here.

You have at your disposal:

Convenient and spacious tarpaulin wire frame tents.
For them who wants to feel fresh after raising the base camp have a wonderful Russian bath with a real heat that is burnt every day in the second half of the day.
An autonomous diesel power plant that provides us with a 20 kilowatt electricity for lightning, burning Russian baths, equipments, recharging of accumulators;
If you are keep all your things in cells you should not worry about their safety. The commandant of the camp responds for your things safety you can be sure he is very solid, you can trust him.
Also there lives a doctor. He has his own room with all the necessary medicaments for rendering you the first aid, including oxygen equipments. Resuscitation specialist has a big experience of the high attitude work, so that he can give you skilled help any time you need. He also have such obligations as making examinations, consultations, and delivering all the necessary information about your health during the whole tour so welcome you may ask him!
For them who do not want to sit in the tent we have a stretched volley ball net, under this net you can find a ball, so your recreation is active every day!
You will feel much comfortable knowing that some where in the camp sits a special life-saving group that consists of a skilled high attitude guides who are ready to help you anytime and everywhere. In this situation the most important is not to forget to register in the book of leaving. For this you will be given a special certificate after return.
The most important on the mountain is a normal, hot and a 3 times- a -day food. Our camp guarantees you 2 hot meals, 2 vegetable salads, fruit dessert, tea or coffee (on your desire). Vegetarians we have done everything for your comfort as we have food for vegetarians and you can order everything you would like to we have fore seed everything. In the camp work just professional cooks who have worked in restaurants for more than 10 years.
The camp provides you with a high-attitude equipment in lease(high attitude tents Red Fox and Terra Nova, ropes e.t.c.).

It is not everything.

You are missing house? In that case we have our satellite phone, internet, radio station providing you connection with Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent the Base camp near Peak Lenin and Khan-Tengri. Your batteries are out of charge? Do not worry you can recharge it. You have burned out the whole gas in your tear gas spray? Cheer up we will supply it for you. And also radio connection with camps, lease of equipments, high attitude porters, mountain guides… do you need something else?

The camp can accept till 120 people at once and it is active till the middle of July or till the end of August.

Photo of the tour «Communism Peak»:

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