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The Rogram Of Ascending The Mountain Belukha 4506 m


Схема заезда под пик БелухаThe mountain peak Belukha is the highest peak of Altai and Siberia. Even at the first glance at the map of the world it becomes evident the Altai connection with the most powerful Eurasian mountain countries: Himalaya, Tian-Shan, Kunlun and Pamir-Alai. Altaii absorbed practically all the peculiarities of listed mountain giants, may be the sizes are not so impressive but the essence is not only in the sizes and it becomes absolutely clear as soon as you step in the territory of the Altai mountain country. Everything here is very specific. And even if you got used to surprises - here is the new variety of people, weather, beasts, colors - endless surprises.

Belukha massif is the powerful mountain junction of Altai ice covered area. Two mountain peaks Western (4440 m.) and Eastern are divided by famous “Belukha saddle“. Altaiians poetically call this peak “Uch semur”, “Kadin baaji”, “Ak sumur”. A bit of history: the first Europeans exploring Belukha glaciers were: German F. Gebler (1836). But if we speak about the first Belukha climbers - they were Russians: Boris and Mikhail Trifonoffs (1914). Actually these restless brothers founded the tradition of ascending this beautiful and mysterious mountain mass. And it is surprising: the outfit has been modernized considerably but the number of successful ascending has not increased. And the matter is not in the equipment. Belukha is the East, ladies and gentlemen, and the East is a subtle matter which means unpredictability. It is difficult to say how many attempts were undertaken to ascend Belukha. The exact statistics does not exist. But this fact is marvelous. Besides there is a correct psychological approach:”if you have not tried to ascend, may be it for better. You are alive and the mountain is on the same place which means there is a always a chance to come back here one day. In general for traditional cultures it is typical to prohibit the visits of mountain peaks. Tradition always tries to preserve family origin otherwise it is not a tradition. Only the rational actions are demanded which means the actions that are needed for preservation life and family origin: “there is no fish, there is no beast and it is dangerous there is nothing to do and white people have no business there”. And really: as a rule the locals do not approve the ascending of peaks. But yet mountaineers and tourists can meet more tolerable attitude than archeologists. You can ask:” what for is this long tirade?”. Just simply think…thinkand decide. Try to make the ascending with the real pros. And don’t let the absolute lack of experience to frighten you. We have many examples when “green climbers” visiting the mountains for the first time at all ascended Belukha…you may say - Mystics - yes it is Mystics.

Historic-geographical information.

Mountain Belukha (the Altai name for it - Kadin-baji, which means in translation “peak of Katun), and also Uch - chairi or Ak-sumer (in Buddhism means sacred mountain - the world sacral center) is situated in the eastern part of Katun mountain range. Big glaciers flow on Belukha slopes: Mensu, Katin, Black, Kapchal, Big Brelskiy, Akkemskiy, Vushtuairi with the total area of approximately 70 square km. where the river Khatun starts and its tributaries. Belukha mountain with the valleys of rivers Akkem and Kucherla together with the lakes under the same names form the “Nature park Belukha” founded in 1997 together with another Altai nature territories is on the UNESCO Heritage list under the name “Altai golden mountains”. It is a surprise but the highest peak of Altai and Siberia has become known relatively recently - no more than 150 years. The first ascending on the Belukha peak was done by brothers Trifonoff. In their honor was called one of the big glaciers, which is situated higher than Kucherling lake (altai name for it is Mushtairi). But even nowadays when mountaineers made multiple ascending and annual number of tourists visiting its foot exceeds 2500 Belukha as earlier is considered to be severe and inaccessible. May be it can be explained by the severe Belukha climate: it is always cold here the penetrating wind blows, almost all around the rocks are covered with thin ice glazing -all year round- flowing ice. Belukha ascending is the first thing that a new comer to Altai starts to think. But this action is very serious and responsible, even the simplest route is evaluated as 3A, and this undermines good physical form and even the minimum climber’s training. And yet Belukha is suitable for mountaineers of different skill level: it is a great experience for the mountaineers- beginners, for the experienced climbers it is the support of physical conditions, the experienced ones say: ”Belukha it is for the soul”.

5 reasons to participate in the ascending program
to Belukha Peak (4506 m):

Attempt to ascend the highest peak of Altai and Siberia;
Realization of the fact that the ascending takes place at the joint of Russia, China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan;
Expedition is held in the area of habitation of mystic (snow demon - Yeti);
Rare possibility of visiting nature preserve;
Possibility of shooting film ( with the usage of photo and video equipment of participants)

Dates of arrival for the combined groups in 2012:

Group

Dates of the beginning of the program

Dates of the ending of the program

Quantity of vacancies

Group №1

10.06.2012

24.06.2012

9 vacancies available

Group №2

22.06.2012

06.07.2012

10 vacancies available

Group №3

09.07.2012

23.07.2012

10 vacancies available

Group №4

21.07.2012

04.08.2012

10 vacancies available

Group №5

11.08.2012

25.08.2012

10 vacancies available


Tour program “The Belukha ascending”:

1 day
Arrival to Barnaul. Transfer to the office. Breakfast. Further transfer to the first place of the overnight at the farm house (850 m) Lunch in the café. Evening: bath house and dinner. Accommodation in the houses with fireplaces.
2-3 days
Breakfast. Transfer to the place of start with waiting loaded horses. Distribution of equipment and food for load horses. Beginning of two days trekking and the period of acclimatization:
- crossing the mountain range Kara - Turek (3600 m);
- trekking up the river Kucherla to the Base Camp on the coast of Ak - Kemsk lake (2150 m).
4 day
Crossing the mountain range (3080 m). Further on -3 or 4 hours descending to theAkkemsk lake (2150 m). Accommodation in the Base Camp on the territory MChS of Russia . preparing for ascending.
5 day
Proceeding from the weather conditions and tactical planning:
а) rest at the lake and preparing for ascending, or:
b) assembly and closer to the lunch time departure for “Tomsk kamps”. Ascending along Ak - Kem glacier. Overnight at a altitude of 3000m in tents.
6 day
Special technical preparing.
Ice exercises on the glacier “Arbuz”. Intensive course of the skills of movements on the snow - ice covered slopes, practice of movement in bundles, teaching the rules of safety measures, training of self holding on the ice slope.
7 day
Early wake up, breakfast. Arrival to the mountain range Delone (45 minutes).
Guides hang “railings” on the range Delone (3400m).
After the mountain range, crossing the huge snow - ice covered field of glacier Sapojnikova Mensu. Further on - continue ascending the mountain range Berelsk but without rope railings.
Making camp and pitching tents.
Overnight at an altitude of 3520m.
8 day
Early wake up at 4 am… Breakfast.
Crossing the range TKT (3800 m).
Crossing the range Belukha (4300 m) using the rope railings.
Beginning of the ascending the peak on the steep ice - snow covered slope.
Arrival to the mountain peak Belukha (4506 m).
With the conditions of favorable weather - 30 minutes rest. Descending to the Berelsk saddle. (In the case of bad weather rest in snow cave). After short rest descending to the “Tomsk camps” on Ak - Kem glacier.
9 day
Descending to the base camp on the lake Ak - Kem. Bath house. Free time.
10 day
Reserve day for the case of bad weather.
11-12 days
Trekking in the forest-mountain or forest-step zone with light rucksacks.
Options:
a) crossing the range Kara - Turek (3050 m) here is the best observation place of Belukha along the river Kucherla till the tributary Tungur;
b) along the river Ak - Kem over the range Kuzuiak (1340 m).
Choice of the options depends on the weather conditions and physical conditions of the participants.
13 day
Arrival and over night staying at the farm house (Katanda).
Bath house with exit to the mountain creek.
Goodbye dinner cooked of the fresh country products.
Overnight staying in the houses with fireplaces.
14 day
Breakfast. Arrival to Barnaul. Transfer to the hotel Centralnaia.
15 day
Transfer to the airport.

Cost of the “Belukha Peak” tour:

Cost of the tour for 1 person

1630 USD


The cost includes:

Visa support;
Meeting and seeing off at the airport in Barnaul;
Transfers Barnaul - Tungur - Barnaul;
Meals at the farms;
Bath house at the farm;
Meals while en route and products for individual cooking during the active part of the route;
Services of professional guides during the time of the tour;
Training for acquiring Alpinist skills, needed for ascending;
Hiring of load horses;
Medical insurance;
Leasing of bivouac equipment;
Leasing of individual outfit in accordance with “the list of personal and group outfit”;
Registration of necessary documents (registration in OVIR, admission to the borderland).

The cost does not include:

Air tickets costs for international flights;
Hotel accommodation costs on arrival and departure;
Bivouac services in the time of active part;
Alcohol drinks;
Souvenirs.

Additional services:

Using of satellite telecommunication (5 USD per minute);
Hotel booking in Barnaul.

Hotels in Barnaul:

Hotel “Ulitka” is located in the center of the city. It is equally comfortable for the work and rest. It favorably differs from other hotels in the city by European comfort. Service is on the level of western standards. The thematic floors were created in this hotel: Russian, French, Japanese, Greek, Italian.

Staying in hotel “Ulitka”:

Room category

Price of the room
including breakfast

Single standard

90 USD

Single (big bed)

90 USD

TWIN

110 USD

DBL (bed for two persons)

110 USD

Single room LUX

160 USD

Double room LUX

185 USD


Hotel “Centralnaia” is situated in the central square of the city. Services: restaurant, bar, beauty parlor, currency exchange office, sauna.

Staying in hotel “Centralnaia”:

Room category

Price of the room
including breakfast

Single standard

60 USD

Double standard

80 USD

Double improved

120 USD

Single room LUX

130 USD

Double room LUX

190 USD


Menu en route:

Meals are not only pleasant way of spending time, but also life necessity, especially in the mountains. That’s why our distinguishing feature while preparing expeditions is carefully selected and diversified ration. In the base camp and on the track food preparing is done by cook. A saloon - tent was pitched in the Base camp on Ak - Kem. And there, at the field tables and seating on chairs you can not only have your meals, but in the evenings lighted by gas - lamps discuss twists of ascending. But while the ascending food cooking is done differently: there are two persons per tent who are given set of food stuff, gas, gas -burner, set of table ware for gas - burner (for two persons). After a short instruction the participants cook food without assistance. This was dictated by the thoughts of efficiency, portability, comfort and safety.

Photo of the tour:

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