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Detailed tour description:
Day 12. Kashgar - Irkeshtam pass (260 km, 4 hrs.) - Yurt camp under the Lenin Peak.
Early in the morning you will leave Kashgar and head for the Irkeshtam pass, where you set your foot on the Kyrgyz land. Present-day road towards Irkeshtam runs just like the middle part of the ancient Great Silk Road did. The entire route accounts for the mountain ranges of the Pamir-Alay, which separate Central Asia and China. It’s known for certain that the first man who passed this natural barrier in 128 BC was Chinese envoy Zhang Qian together with his mission. Therefore, the date of Zhang Qian mission’s arrival to the Ferghana Valley can be regarded as the official opening of the Great Silk Road, because due to this Chinese mission the active silk trade has begun along this transcontinental route.
Well, now when you’ve successful passed both Irkeshtam pass and border point the next phase of your program is starting. You will get acquainted with the charming nature and picturesque landscapes of Kyrgyzstan. Your travel efforts will be rewarded as soon as you find yourself at the footsteps of the great Kyrgyz Mountains, under the world-famous seven-thousand-meter peak - the Lenin Peak. Don’t worry if you are quite far from alpinism as nobody is going to make you climb this peak. Your tour was claimed to be a cultural one, so everything is going to be done “politely”! Well, apart from joking it must be said that here you will find yourself in a bit unusual conditions as you are supposed to accommodate in the yurt camp far from hotels, high-rank restaurants, marble floors and plastic ceilings. However, still don’t worry! The service in our camp matches the level of a good hotel with the only difference, which is a view from the window.
So, Yurt camp under the Lenin Peak is kind of a small town located at the altitude of 3600 meters above the sea level. Here you will accommodate in warm and cozy national yurts with heating, all necessary furniture and electricity. All conditions for the comfortable rest are guaranteed! There are also an excellent bathhouse with a real sweating-room and proper WC facilities. For your convenience staff doctor is working in the camp. Moreover, there is a cook-house where both traditional European and national Kyrgyz dishes will be cooked for you. Despite the altitude and remoteness from civilization we’ve got a telephone here, so you can call home, and (drum-roll)… we have an Internet connection!
Day 13. Yurt camp under the Lenin Peak.
Well, how did you sleep after yesterday’s journey? Was it wonderful? Guess, yes, as proper sleep is guaranteed here by the fresh air, cozy yurt, and remoteness from any highways, crowds of people and all modern civilization in general.
Today you will continue discovering the nature of Kyrgyzstan and probably meet the alpinists who came here to climb the seven-thousand-meter peak. So, don’t miss an opportunity to learn something about people’s life in the mountains! You can feel like a real mountain-dweller for a while.
Day 14. Transfer to Osh.
Today after having breakfast under the Lenin Peak you are starting towards a Kyrgyz city called Osh. In order to get there you have to cross the Taldyk pass. As a rule it is the most difficult pass on the way from the yurt camp to Osh. Its altitude is 3615 meters above the sea level. Even at the beginning of June snow is usually there. There is a breathe-taking view of snowy mountain ridges of the Alay range from the Taldyk pass. The above-mentioned range creates natural border of the Ferghana Valley from the south and south-east. Therefore, try to take a seat near the window - there is a lot to look at!
The Kyrgyz call Osh the “southern capital”. Nobody know the exact date of its foundation, however, legends related it to Alexander the Great and even Solomon the Prophet (also known in the East as Suleyman). One legend tells that Suleyman was leading its army and there was a couple of yoked oxes ahead of him and after oxes had reached a mountain the ruler said: “Kosh!” (“Enough!”). However, this is not the only version of the city name origin.
Osh is one of the most ancient urban centre of the Central Asia and undoubtedly the most ancient in Kyrgyzstan. Archeological findings prove that the city is at least about 3000-year old. In the X C Osh was regarded as the third largest city of Ferghana, because it was standing at the crossroad of the caravan routes stretching from India and China to Europe. Hence, it was one of the ancient spots along the Silk Road, the tracks of which your route is following. Besides, Osh is one of the Muslim religious centers of the Central Asia. A handful of legends is related to the Suleyman-Too Mountain (the mountain is named after Suleyman the Prophet, who, according to the legend, was able to cure all illnesses).
Overnight at a hotel.
Day 15. Osh - Ferghana.
Today you will have to make a long journey from Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan. You will leave Osh early in the morning and proceed to Ferghana, where your journey across Uzbekistan starts. Today you will see the legendary Ferghana Valley with your own eyes! After all, this is the fertile and densely populated region where numerous caravans moving along the Silk Road to the Mediterranean were usually sheltered!
Overnight at a hotel in Ferghana.
Day 16. Ferghana - Margilan - Ferghana.
Today you will see several ancient cities of the Ferghana Valley. The first will be Margilan, the city, which remembers invasions of Alexander the Great and the foundation of the Great Silk Road. In the X C this city was famous far behind the borders of the Ferghana Valley with its silk and khan-atlas and garments made of these cloths. The cloths were exported to Egypt, Greece, Baghdad, Khorasan and Kashgar. You will have an opportunity to see these unique fabrics as we’ve planned your visits to the “Yodgorlik” Silk Factory and the Eastern Bazaar, where you can purchase both lots of souvenirs and useful items.
At the end of the XV - the beginning of the XVI C Margilan was also famous due to the following circumstance: one of Timur Lang’s grandsons - sultan Babur - was born and raised here. He became a ruler of Ferghana and later founded the Mughal Empire in India. In addition, he was the founder of his own dynasty - the Baburid (note that different sources also refer to it as the Timurids or the Mughal dynasty) - who were ruling till the middle of the XIX C. You will surely have a lot of pleasant memories of this city as being the travelers’ shelter for ages it is still full of verdure! The architectural complex Kaftarlik (XVIII C) will make you believe that you decision to come here was not a mistake as you are about to see the mosque with the unique paintings and mysterious minarets.
Then you will be taken back to Ferghana to continue your tour there.
Overnight at a hotel.
Day 17. Ferghana - Rishtan - Kokand - Tashkent (310 km, 5 hrs.).
Today you will continue discovering the Ferghana Valley and, first of all, head for Rishtan and then another famous city of the valley called Kokand. Rishtan is famous all around Uzbekistan and abroad with its numerous workshops, where unique pottery is produced. Azure pottery of Rishtan is a wonderful national tradition, which remained till the present. During your visits to several workshops you’ll see how pottery is made by the famous craftsmen putting their whole soul into the process. The dabs of Rishtan are world-famous because of their unique technology of the ceramics manufacture and unusual decoration of the pottery produced.
After that you’ll continue your transfer to Tashkent. However, there is another one attraction to discover while you are still in the Ferghana Valley - Kokand. This city won’t leave you indifferent as not long ago (at the end of the XIX - the beginning of the XX C) Kokand was the second largest city of the Ferghana Valley! In the period of active land trade along the Great Silk Road Kokand, as recorded in Chinese chronicles dated back to the X C, was famous with its handicrafts. During the period of its existence Kokand was ruled by 29 khans, the most famous of which is probably the last one called Khudayar Khan (1845 - 1876). Four times he was deprived of the throne and each time he managed to come back to power.
An old eastern proverb says: “New ruler - new coin”. However, in the case of Kokand governors it must be changed as follows: “New ruler - new palace”. For the rich history of Kokand the palace of Khudayar Khan , which is still well-preserved, was the seventh residence of the rulers for just a century and a half. This magnificent complex was built by the architect called Mir Ubaydullo in 1871. The best artisans from different corners of the Ferghana Valley were decorating it. The palace, surrounded by the carved stone wall, consisted of 7 smaller courtyards and 119 rooms. There was an Arabic inscription above the main gates stating: “Syed Muhammad Khudayar Khan the Great”. Now there is a regional museum in the former palace building.
In bygone days Kokand was a large centre of the religion development. In the years of prosperity there were thirty five madrassas and hundred mosques in the city. Unfortunately, most of them are devastated either by time, earthquakes or the Soviet authorities. The largest religious centre of the city was the Norbutabi madrasah built at the end of the XVIII C. After 1991 this madrasah was opened again and now more than eighty students study there. It is also worth to see the Juma mosque erected in the beginning of the XIX C. The iwan’s covering leans on 98 carved pillars made of a solid nettle tree. Unique ceiling of the mosque is made of the wooden panels “vassa”, covered with elegant frescos and laid athwart the ornamented cross-beams. A minaret rises in front of the mosque and it is seen from everywhere in the city. And as you see the Mausoleum of Modari Khan you will find out a life story of a poetess Nadira executed by order of the Amir of Bukhara and it will make you sad. This necropolis was built in the memory of hers!
After all the excursions you will finally reach Tashkent, where you will be able to relax in a hotel room.
Day 18. Tashkent.
Today you will see Tashkent - one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. You will be able to appreciate its modern beauty and ancient majesty.
Tashkent is the capital of Uzbekistan, the fourth largest city in CIS with a huge population of about 2,3 million of people. The city is conditionally divided into two parts - the Old and the New city. The names are self-explanatory: in the Old city you will find mausoleums, madrassas and an authentic eastern bazaar, whereas in the New one there are modern monuments, buildings, squares, and parks. These two contrasting faces of the city peacefully co-exist and, moreover, successfully supplement each other. In fact, this distinctive feature of Tashkent conveys the characteristic, which is general for the entire Uzbek state: that is, harmonious combination of the ancient traditions and modern trends.
We will start from the attractions of the Old city:
The Barak Khan Madrasah is a splendid monument of the XVI C located in the very heart of the Old city - the Hast Imam Square - and is surrounded by the ancient wattle and daub houses. In the past the Spiritual Administration of the Muslims of Central Asia headed by the mufti was lodged in the madrasah. In addition, there is a huge library of eastern manuscripts here. The world-known the Uthman Qur"an is kept here in a special room. This manuscript was written in the middle of the VII C and is the source of the sacred book of the Islam - the Qur’an. It consists of 353 large-sized parchment pages, which were kept in the treasuries of caliphs for centuries (in Medina, Damascus and Baghdad). In Timur Lang’s time the Uthman Qur"an was brought from Baghdad to Uzbekistan and then (in the XIX C) is has visited St.-Petersburg, where Russian scientists proved its authenticity. Later it came back to the Central Asia via Ufa and now it is kept here. The Mausoleum of Yunus Khan is a monumental construction built in the XV C in the honour of one of the Tashkent rulers. The building is quite well-preserved.
The Mazar of Kafal-Al-Shashi (sacred Sufi tomb, XVI C). Kafal-Al-Shashi was a missionary, a preacher of shafiitism. He was also a Sufi poet. He died in the X C and his tomb, reconstructed in the XVI C, has become a popular Muslim pilgrimage site.
The Kukeldash Madrasah (XVI C) is situated not far from the eastern bazaar Chor-Su. The madrasah is functioning. Many Muslim students live and study there. There are towers from the both sides of the facade, and muezzins used to call the believers for prayer (“namaz” or Mohammedan prayer) from there.
Afterwards we’ve planned the New city tour:
Our first destination is the Museum of Applied Arts. Then we’ll proceed to the Istiklol Square, which is the main square of the country. All public national holidays are celebrated here. Recently its design was expanded with an immense arch, which is illuminated from beneath by small lights fixed into the ground. Those lights fill the surroundings with a cosmic glow.
Then we are supposed to have a fifteen-minute walk from the Independence Square to the Uzbek State Opera and Ballet Theatre.
Afterwards we’ll proceed to the Nations’ Friendship Square, which is the second largest square of the city. It is also often used as a venue of the national holidays’ celebration. Here is also a concert hall of the same name, where the concerts of both local and foreign stars are held.
We recommend you getting to all the above-mentioned spots by the underground. It is the coolest transport in hot summer weather. «Tashkent underground is the most beautiful!!!» - it is a frequent phrase of both city guests and its dwellers. That’s true as each underground station is uniquely designed. And here is where you’ll find the second distinctive feature of both Tashkent and Uzbekistan, which is the combination of the eastern and western styles. Guess, you liked the stations, didn’t you? However, you are not allowed to take pictures in the underground.
This is how your day in the Uzbek capital is planned. A night in the hotel will become a perfect addition to a day full of the eastern spirit.
Day 19. Tashkent - Samarkand (330 km, 5-6 hrs.).
After breakfast you will start towards the oldest and probably the most famous Central Asian city – Samarkand, which was also known as Afrasiyab and Maracanda for some time. Guess, you’ve heard about this ancient city more than once. Samarkand was one of the major destinations of the Great Silk Road. This is a city-museum, a city that was a heart of the caravan trade. Amazingly, but Samarkand, which saw a lot, has managed to keep the spirit of the Asian Middle Ages. In 1220 Genghis Khan almost totally demolished the city. However, in another 150 year, during the rule of Timur Lang, Samarkand became a well-known capital of a vast empire. As for the trade, carpets weaved in Samarkand were highly valued.
There is the Hazrat-Khyzr Mosque on the hill at the city entrance. An impressive view of the ancient Necropolis Shah-i-Zinda, local bazaar and distant mountains opens from that hill. The Hazrat-Khyzr Mosque, which is quite an old construction, was totally demolished by the hordes of Genghis Khan as well as many other objects in Samarkand. However, it was reconstructed in the XIX C.
Overnight at a hotel.
Day 20. Samarkand.
This entire day will be devoted to Samarkand and who knows maybe this city, recognized as the heart of the Great Silk Road, will lift the veil of mystery from its secrets. You are starting your quest after breakfast. Are you ready? Yeah? Then let’s go!
First of all you will see the most impressive square in the entire Central Asia - the Registan Square (XV - XVII C) situated in the centre of Samarkand. The word “Registan” means “sandy spot”. The Registan appeared as the centre of the trade and handicrafts at the crossing of six roads outstretched from the city gates. Right here, in the Registan, merchants coming with the camelcades were selling their goods and purchasing local ones. The square is encircled with three majestic buildings: the Madrasah of Ulugh Bek (1417 - 1420), the Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619 - 1636), and the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (1647 - 1660).
In 1417 Ulugh Bek (the grandson of famous Timur Lang) started the construction of the madrasah bearing his name. In 1420 construction process was finished and the square became the centre of the science. Initially, more than a hundred students were living and studying there. The Madrasah of Ulugh Bek was considered as the higher educational institution that time. Therefore, one may conclude that it was an eastern medieval university.
In the XVII C two more buildings were erected in the Registan: the Sher-Dor and the Tilya-Kori Madrassas. They are remarkably large and luxuriously designed. The Sher-Dor Madrasah («Lions Gate») with the facade depicting fantastic catlike animals and chamois is a regular reflection of the Madrasah of Ulugh Bek. It had been under construction for almost 17 years. Its construction was initiated by the ruler of Samarkand called Yalangtush Bakhodur. Ten year after the Sher-Dor had been finished he ordered to lay foundation of the Tilya-Kori Madrasah, which completes the ensemble from the north. The name of the madrasah is literally translated as “decorated with gold”. Except its main educative function this madrasah was also used as the main mosque of Samarkand. The Registan is still considered to be the central city square.
After that you will visit the Rukhabad necropolis. As the legend states the hair of the Islamic Prophet Mohammad (XV C) are kept here. Furthermore, you can head for the Bibi-Khanym Mosque (XV C), which was built according to a special order by the best 200 architects from all over the Timur Lang’s empire, 500 workers and 95 Indian elephants. Another option is to see the Ulugh Beg Observatory (also the XV C) where you find a unique astronomic construction - the sextant.
You can also take a look of the architectural ensemble Shah-i-Zinda (XII - XV CC), which has got its name from the legend about the cousin of Muhammad the Prophet called Kusam ibn Abbas, who was buried here. The name of the ensemble literally means “King Alive”. The legend tells that Kusam ibn Abbas came to Samarkand together with the Arab conquerors in the VII C to preach Islam and was beheaded for his beliefs. However, he was such a strong believer that he managed to take his head split and went down to a deep well where he is supposedly residing now. The remains of the Timur Lang’s courtiers also lie here in Shah-i-Zinda.
Overnight at a hotel.
Day 21. Samarkand - Bukhara (300 km, 4-5 hrs.).
Early in the morning you are starting to Bukhara. En route you will be able to appreciate majesty of the Kyzyl-Kum desert still keeping the tracks of the camelcades, which were once moving slowly along the Great Silk Road. «Bukhara-i sharif», «Noble», «Sacred» - these are only some of the epithets, which were used to describe this ancient city. One of the legends tells that the founder of Bukhara was called Siyavash and he was a son of an Iranian Shakh. Zoroastrians of Bukhara worshipped the place of his death and traditionally during the spring holiday Nowruz each man was slaughtering a cock at the eastern gates called Guriyan (Hay-sellers" Gate), where Siyavash is said to be executed. During the rule of the Samanid Bukhara was their capital city and at the same time the greatest city of the entire Islamic world. In addition, it happened to be the centre of trade between China and Western Asia. What a goods were exported from here by the caravans! E.g. dried fruits, various fabrics, vine, jewelry, etc. Therefore, Bukhara became kind of an exchange place for all Asian peoples (one of its alternative names was “The City of Merchants”). In general, this fact resulted in the proverb, which was famous in the XIX C in Bukhara: «He keeps his eyes open just like a Bukhara shroff». By the way, the Iranian Encyclopedia tells us that the name of the city originated from the Sogdian «Buxarak» («Place of Good Fortune »). Who knows, maybe this is the very reason why trade was so brisk here?
After the tiring road you will be able to relax at a hotel in Bukhara looking forward to meet the “God’s delight” - Bukhara.
Day 22. Bukhara.
Next morning in a cozy Bukhara hotel will begin with... breakfast, of course! Then you will continue exploring Bukhara. You have a 6-hour excursion schedule.
First, you will explore the Mausoleum of the Samanid (IX-Х CC), which is a pearl of Central Asian architecture. It is a family tomb of a local dynasty, which was founded by Ismail Samani. The mausoleum is unique in various respects. For instance, according to the canons of Islamic architecture the construction of the covered mausoleums was prohibited. However, all evidence shows that for the first time this rule was broken during the construction of this mausoleum. Furthermore, as historians of the architecture state, the building was erected according to the rules applied to the construction of Zoroastrian fire worship temples. Thus, it was built according to the pre-Arab religious traditions, however, in the period of wide Islam dissemination in the Central Asia. Therefore, the Mausoleum of the Samanid is considered as the building, which defined the trend of various cultures synthesis and assimilation. Later original architectural style of the Central Asia has developed based on it.
Upon leaving the Park of the Samanids don’t forget to have a look at the Chashma-Ayub Mazar (or mausoleum) (XII C), which is translated as “the spring of Job”. This place is the best demonstration of the Silk Road impact onto the development of countries interconnected by this route, including even the remotest ones. Who could even think that here, in Central Asia, Christian legends about Biblical characters may appear? Nevertheless, the legend tells us that Job (Ayub) was wondering in this region in the tome of drought. Locals, exhausted by thirst, were asking for water. Then the prophet had stroke the ground with his stick and the next moment clear spring appeared there. It is still accessible for the wonderers.
Today you will admire at the most ancient fortress of Bukhara, Ark citadel (end of the III C), which vividly fits in the local scenery, and is an impressive reinforced fort from which Bukhara was starting long ago. Present-day appearance of the citadel correlates with the time of last restoration of the Ark gates by Shakh Murad Khan, known as the «sinless Amir». It is considered, that in the times of the other governor called Nasrullah Khan, known as the «butcher Amir» for its cruelty, leather lash, was hanging on one of the walls of the fortress being a symbol of his authoritarian power. As a matter of fact, the Ark citadel hosted the whole city including residential and administrative buildings, mosque, prison, treasury, residence of the Amir, etc.
The Po-i-Kalyan complex (XII-XVI CC) is the central one in Bukhara and is translated as the "Grand Foundation" meaning that it is the base of the famous Minaret Kalyan (the height of the minaret is 49 m, it was built in 1127), which is the highest tower in Bukhara. It is a miracle that the minaret is still there after numerous wars and invasions. For centuries it was used as a watchtower. Also it was known as the Tower of Death, as for centuries criminals were publicly executed here (by being tossed off the top). Interestingly, the word “minaret” means in Arabic the “place where something is lighted”. Many legends relate to this majestic tower, however, you will find out all the secrets in place!
The Madrasah of Ulugh Bek (XV C) was built in Bukhara in 1417, just as in Samarkand to raise national literacy. Ulugh Bek was a fair and well-educated ruler, who was always following high ideals of science and enlightenment. Noteworthy is his treatment of women. For example, the words carved on the doors of his madrasah in Bukhara are the following: «Aspiration for knowledge is a duty of every Muslim man and woman». Another maxim from the same source states: «Let the doors of the God’s blessings be open for the people, who are literate and wise, every day». One can easily guess what a negative reaction was displayed by the clergy towards such a policy of the temporal power!
Next you will head to the Lyab-i Hauz (meaning “by the pond”) ensemble (XVI-XVII CC), which contains the Kukeldash Madrasah (1568), and the Khanaqah and Madrasah of Nadir Divan-Beghi (1622). All constructions are grouped around one of the ponds, which survived the mass drainage of Bukhara at the Soviet times (at those times it was kind of a practical requirement, as ponds were disease-breeders among local folks). The pond"s history is the one, which deserves to be told. Long-long time ago there stood a house of an aged Jewish widow in the place of this pond. As Dmitry Page writes: «Divan-Beghi decided this place to be ideal for the pond by Khanaqah. He asked the widow to sell her yard and mentioned an acceptable price. But the Jewess refused at any price. Then Divan-Beghi led her to the Amir, being confident that the latter would impel her to sell the house. But Imam-Quli Khan committed the case to the mufti board. Muslim jurists decided not to force the yard from Jewess, as Jews in their judgement should enjoy the same rights as Muslims. But a sly grandee laid an Aryk to his new pond under the widow"s house… After a time, when water started to scour the base of her house, widow came to Divan-Beghi praying for his conscience. He answered that his offer is still valid and he will immediately pay her the cost of the house if only she agreed to sell it. The widow said she did not need any money. The only thing she asked for was an exchange of her house to an allotment with permission to build a synagogue there. Divan-Beghi accepted her alternative and handed the woman his allotment situated at the quarter, which is now called the «Jewish» one (Mahall-i Kukhma). Shortly, the first synagogue in Bukhara and great hauz (pond) were built due to the above-mentioned people.
Ancient Bukhara will tell you many stories if you are simply able to perceive! But now, please, have a rest at the hotel.
Overnight at a hotel.
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