Shakhrisabz - ancient and forever young Central Asian city celebrated its 2700-year anniversary in 2002. Today this splendid city demonstrates to the world age-old values of Uzbekistan, antiquity and sanctity of this country. During long years of its history Shakhrisabz survived a lot. Several times natural disasters and invasions of enemy detachments turned it into ruins but time and again it gathered itself up and rose from the ashes, becoming better and better, showing everybody its love for life and invincibility. Neither severe ordeal, invasions, wars, no natural disasters could level it the ground.
Shakhrisabz has always been recognized “top of science and spirituality”, center of knowledge, culture and art. Since old times the city has been famous for its artisans, skillful craftsmen. Such majestic, world-wide known buildings as Аk Saray, Daraut-Tilovat, Dorus - Saodat, Kokgumbaz and other inimitable architectural monuments as well as unique archeological discoveries of this land are a vivid confirmation of these words. Here lived great people of the Orient: saints Abu Mukhammad Keshi, Shamsiddin Kulol I Khizrati Bashir; poets and scientists Firoki I KHiromi, Ravnaki I Fakiri, who made Shakhrisabz famous far beyond its borders. The ancestors of great classics as Khusrav Dkhlavi, Mirzo Bedil, Mirzo Golib made an invaluable contribution to the treasury of world culture.
Besides, needless to say, in various epochs Shakhrisabz had different names: Gava Sugda, Nautaka, Kesh.
Gava Sugda.
Many centuries ago Kesh was a medieval province consisted of separate “rustak” - regions in the area of Zaravshan chain and Guzardarya. The capital with the same name, in the opinion of the archeologists, was situated in the place of Kitab and Shakhrisabz. Actually, the history of Kesh goes back to pre-medieval period, its sources relate to the time of development of the most ancient cities on the territory of Central Asia.
In the 80s of the 20th century in Kitabo-Shakhrisabskiy oasis, archeologists of Tashkent University discovered ruins of a large urban center - Uzunkir, with the square of 70 hectares. In 7 - 6 centuries B.C. Uzunkir was surrounded with thick defensive wall and had an inner fortress. Nearby Uzunkir there was Sangirtepa citadel surrounded by double line of wattle and daub defensive walls, each was 10-meter thick. That’s why it was called “Sangir”, i.e. “Stone fortress”.
The most ancient buildings on the territory of Sangirtepa dated back to 9 - 8 centuries B.C. that time one of the provinces of Sogdiana was known as Gava Sugda or “Sogdiana settlement”. Yashtakh - one of first parts of Avesta, contains that information. By the way, the term “Gava” or “Gau” was popular on the territory of Kitabo-Shakhrisabskiy and Yakkabagskiy oases as well as nearby mountains. This word relates to the present-day settlements, archeological monuments and geographical notions. Perhaps, it was the eastern part of Kashkadarya valley named “Gava Sugda” 2900 - 2800 years ago.
Nautaka.
More than 23 centuries ago, at Alexander of Macedonian times, Sogdiana province, the location of the present-day Shakhrisabz, was called Nautaka. Greek army destroyed Akhemenids’ Persia and during five years of endless wars, having passed huge distance from the Balkans to the north of Afganistan, finally approached Oks (Amudarya), to the ancient Nautaka, where Bess, the satrap of Sogdiana and Baktria was hiding from the invaders. Taking a chance, he deceitfully killed Dariy III, the last tsar from the Akhemenids’ dynasty, and announced himself tsar of the Asia. But in Nautaka province, in small settlement surrounded by walls with gates, Bess was captured by Ptolemey Lag, one of Alexander’s commanders. In the foothills of Yakkabag chain, archeologists found ruins of those settlements, once having distinct square, rounded and triangle planning, surrounded with earth mound.
Since 7-6 centuries B.C. Gava Sugda was named Nautaka. The majority of investigators assume that ancient Sogdian term “Nautaka” is translated as “New settlement”. But at the same time there is a group of specialists suggesting that the origin of this word relates to the construction of a huge high-end fortress Uzunkir, fortified with massive defensive walls. Thus, they consider the word “taka” relate to “power”, “might”, “strength”. However, Nautaka was not only the name of the city, but also vast area populated by Sogdians from Zaravshan chain to Uradarya.
At the beginning of 327 B.C. Alexander disposed his troops to rest in Nautaka. However this land was chosen not only for its fertility and availability of food and forage, but also with entirely strategic reasons. In early spring Alexander of Macedonian went to Sogdian cliff (fortress) located in Gissar mountains, where hided unsubdued Sogdians leaded by Oksiart. Tall and thick walls of Sogdian cliff impress Alexander but did not scare him. Macedonian tsar decided to avoid bloodshed and offered Oksiart to surrender. But the ruler of Nautaka was sure that only gods were fated to conquer his impregnable fortress. So, Alexander, having gathered the army of three hundred Thracians, Thessalonians and Macedonians, ordered to conquer Sogdian fortress. Leaded by Clit, they reached the castle in a night. The sieged had to surrender. Not only Oksiart, but all his family, including beauty Roksana, later becoming Alexander’s wife. The son born in this marriage - Alexander IV was the last tsar of Macedonian dynasty. Perhaps, during that winter stay, Alexander had an idea to marry his commanders to local Bactrian and Sogdian women, and strengthen his conquests with strong family ties. This way occurred a kind of merging of traditions and culture of East and West.
Sukhe (Suse).
By the 3rd century B.C. the ancient city on site of Uzunkir fortress had been abandoned and desolate. New city center was founded on the place of the present Kitab on the right bank of Aksudarya. In historical in historical written sources it was known as Sykhe or Suse. Most likely this term - distorted version of Sogdian word “Sugud” or Avestan word “Sugda” that means “Sogdiana”. Аntique city, on site of Kitab, occupied the territory of almost 40 hectares, had solid citadel, fortified residential part and suburbs. It existed till the end of 8th century.
Kesh.
7th century was the golden age of the ancient predecessor of Kitab. During this period it was named Kesh. From written sources and coin signs, we know the names of three rulers of Kesh - Dichje (end of 6th-early 7th century), Shish-Pir (to the mid-7th century) and Akhurpat (second half of 7th century). At the time of Shish-Pir’s ruling, Kesh established diplomatic relations with neighboring oriental states and became the Sogdian capital.
In the early medieval period, Kesh located on a highly-populated plain and was surrounded with many settlements and orchards. The city had defensive walls and consisted of separate residential quarters. The city developed workmanship and construction, rapidly expanded trade. That was defined not only by important social-economic and administrative significance of the city, but also its location on busy caravan road leading to Samarkand, Tashkent oasis and Fergana valley, in opposite direction - to the countries of Middle East.
In 699 year Arabic troops, headed by Mukhallab, attacked Kesh. Till the mid-8th century, people of Kesh, unwilling to surrender and accept reign of the caliphate, had fought against the invaders. In this complicated for both parties period, Arabs arranged a few punitive expeditions to Kesh province.
In 776 Kesh turned to the center of anti-Arabian movement headed by Mukanna (“Cover with blanket”) for the nearest 25 years. During crushing that people’s uprising, Kesh was destroyed, in 9th century once lively city desolated and was never inhabitated till 18th century. Аrab geographers mentioned that the old city and the fortress were both destroyed, although here still functioned cathedral mosque and prison, while suburbs of Kesh were inhabitated.
Gradually new urban settlement was found 7 km south to early medieval Kesh - Kitab within its old agricultural area in the place of present Shakhrisabz that was also named Kesh and continued the history of urban oasis on the new base. Before 12th century rapidly developing trade-crafts city in the place of Shakhrisabz had reached large-size. Since the end of 14th century the old name - Kesh - has been replaced to the new one - Shakhrisabz. Now it is a green city with magnificent buildings. Late author Makhmud ibn Vali wrote about this Shakhrisabz: “Kesh - one of Movarounnahr is taken for one of the most beautiful places in the world with favourable climat. Its fields and spaces are very beautiful.
Shakhrisabz-the hometown of Tamelane.
On April 9, 1346 in Khodja Ilgar village, near Shakhrisabz in the family of a noble barlas Taragay. was born a boy - Temur - to be Amir Temur the Great, statesman and commander.
This city witnessed his childhood and youth, formation of his personality; Shakhrisabz became a sacred abode, where his father Taragay and spiritual advisor Shams Ad-Din Kulal, his eldest sons Jakhongir and Omar Sheikh were buried. In essence, Shakhrisabz became the second capital of the vast Tamelane’s empire, which he always took care of, improved and decorated. The example to prove it, is splendid architectural construction - gorgeous palace of Ak Saray, definitely the one of its kind.
Unfortunately, the time had no compassion for this marvelous construction. At the end of 16th century the grand architectural monument was destroyed. But, even according to remained columns of the portal, we can judge about its size. Up today Ak-Saray remains a medieval masterpiece of ornamental mosaic. This gorgeous construction is a bright incarnation of inexhaustible creativity of folk foremen. At the top of Ak Saray portal was a huge-letter sign “If you want to challenge our power - look at our buildings”.
The memorials of the Timurids’ times in the south-western part of the city have been considerably better preserved. Basically, the remaining parts of once majestic necropolis. Dorus Saodat mausoleum (translated as “House of Prophet’s Descendants”) became the burial place for Tamerlane’s son Jakhangir. The complex was a family necropolis for the Timurids’ dynasty.
Another necropolis is Daraut - Tilovat (“the House of Comptemplation”). Two mausoleums -Khazreti Sheikh (Shamseddin Kulyal) and Gumbezi Seyidan as well as cathedral mosque Kok Gumbaz (“Blue Dome”) display the remains of once colorful ensemble.
In 15th century Shakhrisabz had rectangle planning and divided into separate quarters. In the north-western corner of the city lived local aristocracy and clergy, whose houses were situated near Ak Saray palace. The central part, starting at Termez gates, divided Shakhrisabz almost in halves. In the center it crossed another part, the main quarter stretching from eastern to western gates. Here was erected roofed trade complex Chorsu. In front of urban fortifications was deep and wide ditch with drawbridges. In the suburbs there were lots of orchards and houses.
At present Shakhrisabz city, located on the territory of the independent Central Asian state of Uzbekistan, represents a historical and cultural center of Kashkadarya oasis, preserving unchangeable traditional image.
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