Khiva-ancient city in Khorezm viloyat on the lower reaches of the Amudarya, the pearl of Khorezm oasis, for a long time acting as the prominent center of the Great Silk Road. Khiva deserves to be called a city-museum in the open. It has preserved its numerous invaluable exhibits from old days to the present and became for our contemporaries something like Pompeii that survived after destroying “volcanic attack”. Unlike that ancient Roman city - now existing only in our memories - new Khiva is lively proof of the old one - distant and incomprehensible for us now. Like many other prosperous oriental cities, Khiva was born only due to waters of nearby Amudarya and raised on irrigated lands of fruitful Khorezm oasis.

Before getting its final name, Khiva had been named Khorasmiya, Kvarezm, then for a long time - Khorezm. In the past Khorezm was a big khanate stretching from the west of Central Asia to the south of Aral Sea. At present, that territory shared by Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.

Ancient Khorezm could be titled as cradle of civilization as here was created unique written monument «Аvestа» - sacred book for the followers of Zoroastrianism. This land also became home for such great thinkers of the Orient as Mukhammad al Khorezmi, Abu Raikhon Beruniy, Nadjmeddin Kubro, Makhmud Zamakhshari, Pakhlavon Makhmud, Ogakhi.

Initially Khiva was not the capital of Khorezm state. As historians say, in 1598 Amudarya stepped back from ex-capital, Urgench city (former Gugrandge). The river crossing the territory of eastern khanate flew in Caspian sea through Uzboi, its old course, and satisfied people’s needs in drinking water while providing itself an exit to Europe. But last sharp turn of unrest Amudarya at the end of 16th century once and forever destroyed blossoming Gurgandge. Today near Kunya-Urgench (town on the territory of the Republic of Turkmenistan) you can find ruins of the ancient capital.

In the history of Khorezm, significant place is taken by internecine wars, occasional for the Orient and that “time of trouble”, neighbors’ raids and invasions by famous world’s conquerors as Alexander of Macedonia, Genghis Khan, Tamerlan and Arabic commander Kuteiba ibn Muslim. They all had to make strong efforts to conquer freedom-loving city. For many times they attacked Gurgandge but failed to conquer the whole khanate. Only powerful united army of Genghis Khan succeeded to win this battle. During this confrontation, the city desperately resisted but, as a result of half-year blockade and destroyed dams on Amudarya, Gurgandge was flooded and wiped off the face of the earth. It took the country long 200 years to rebuilt its capital.

After Mongolians Tamerlane undertook five attempts to encroach on Khorezm territory and finally succeeded in 1388.
In 1598 Khiva became the capital of Khiva khanate.
In 18th century Russian empire expressed interest in Khiva. In 1716 tzar Peter I delegated military-diplomatic expedition headed by prince Cherkasskiy. It purposed to collect data on local goldfields, exploring route to India, and, most important - convince Khan of Khiva to announce Khiva’s vassalage. The first attempt to fortify position in Central Asia failed, almost whole Russian detachment counting 3,5 thousand people was killed and few survivors - sold as slaves. Only 150 years later Russia succeeded in this affair. In 1873 году general-governor fon Kaufman undertook new expedition to Khiva. This time it was much better prepared than previous two. 13 thousand of Russian soldiers did their best to make the city surrender after short resistance. Nevertheless, the Khan still kept his throne but he had to contribute half of his territories and accept protectorate of Russia. At the same time, that’s unfair to describe Russian protectorate for Khiva as something terrible and unbearable. Russian government tried to have minimum interference in all affairs related to its national outskirts. That’s why even Khan had quite tolerant attitude to Russian tsar. Independence of the khanate reflected even in the fact that on its territory Russian laws were ineffective while Shariath norms had to be strictly followed up to 20th century. In 1919 brave detachments of the Red Army dethroned the last Khan of Khiva. In 1920 Khiva became the capital of the Khorezm Soviet Peoples’ Republic, in 1924 lands of Khorezm oasis were included in Uzbek and Turkmen Republic, both of them obtained independence in 1991.

Russia annexed part of the khanate in 1873 (partially because of the slave trade of Khiva that caused terror in southern Russia as Turkmen raiders snatched peasants from their farms and sold them in the slave markets of Khiva and Bukhara). In 1919 the USSR deposed the khan of Khiva, dissolving the khanate. Khiva became (1920) the Khorezm Soviet People"s Republic, and in 1924 it was absorbed into the Uzbek SSR and the Turkmen SSR, which in turn both became independent countries in 1991.

Origin of the city.
In 1598 Khiva became the capital of Khiva khanate. That time it was represented by small fortified town with nearly 10-century history. But there is also a legend about origin of Khiva. It relates to water well Kheyvak the new city was built around. Water in the well was of incredible taste and well itself had been digged by the order of Sim, son of Noah, Biblical Prothet. Up to now, Ichan Kala, inner city, has been keeping behind its walls this well so that any interested visitor could see it.

Age of Khiva.
Discovering real age of any ancient city including Khiva is quite difficult, in most cases -practically impossible. Thus, we only can guess it, of course, based on some competent written sources. So, historical reports about Khorezm are given by “Avesta”. Gerodotus, reputed ancient Greek historian also mentioned Khorezm and Khorezm people. Oriental thinker Biruni narrates about ancient farming in Khorezm. Reseaches conducted by archeologists also indicate the city counts not less than 2500 years. Based on this data, in 1997 Khiva deservedly celebrated its 2500 anniversary. Similar discoveries regarding the age of the city authorized UNESCO to announce Khiva as city - reservation and acknowledge preserved inner part of Ichan Kalu town as historical monument of world’s significance.

Description of ancient Khiva.
Today you can only guess about ancient image of the city by means of quite well-preserved historical housing presented by whole city in the open. Certainly, descriptions of the city in different epochs by different travelers are also worth your attention. For instance, medieval geographer Al Makdisi wrote following words about Khiva:”Khiva on the edge of the desert, it’s a vast city on the channel flowing out of river, with well-appointed cathedral mosque. Cathedral mosque takes special place in this saying. This happens not accidentally. In early times oriental people suggested that all the best is to be done in the name of God and belong to Cod. And by size and beauty of the main mosque people judged about prosperity of the city. Another, more detailed description of Khiva is given by foreign traveler D.Mak-Gakhan in his book “War actions and surrender of Khiva” published in 1875. on the pages of this work he writes: «Outside view of Khiva from some points is very uncommon. High castellated walls with towers; roofed gates with heavy towers by sides; rising over city walls domes of mosques and minarets; when seeing this all against the sky background illuminated by sunset, this view looks very picturesque. No less vivid was the picture of the city even 100 years later: it was decorated with new buildings and acquired new architectural image.

Аrchitecture of the city.
Most ancient part of Khiva - Shakhristan Ichan Kala (inner town) surrounded with walls, once and again destroyed and restored. Near western gates of Ichan Kala (nowadays not existing) the location of Kunya Ark, old fortress with fragments of Akshikh Baba castle, once acting as town’s heart. Аrk consisted of a few yards, each of them integrating certain group of buildings. Out of them only kurnysh-khana (Khan’s reception), summer mosque, coin yard and later constructed building of harem. In the mosque and reception (1825 - 1842) pieces to draw your attention are: ayvans with wooden columns and walls covered with majolica tiles.
Part of Ichan Kala located along the road running from western to easter gates has most compact planning. Buildings here are concentrated without any architectural idea. Some groups of buildings form construction massifs where separate constructions merge in their dimensions. Only wide arc apertures or portals define detached buildings. High walls, light corner towers, domes, minarets, light ayvans with wooden columns make sudden silhouette everywhere. No other city in the world managed to keep for us the intact part of Shakhristan like Ichan Kala in Khiva. This is historical cultural reservation representing feudal Central Asian city.

No constructions dated from early prominence of Khiva have remained. Out of those remained ones, most ancient is Seyid Allauddin mausoleum (14th century). Initially, mausoleum consisted of one room with small portal. Ziarat Khana was added to the tomb later. Entrance to the tomb was incased and wall aperture (from ziarat-hona side) - enlarged. In 1957, during restoration, the building returned its as much as possible initial look. Mausoleum contains splendid majolica gravestone. It consists of pedestal with corner columns supporting huge plate with two “sagana” (arrow-headed edging of Muslim gravestones). Light relief stamped on facing tiles of the gravestone. It painted in fine greenery pattern in light blue, dark blue, pistachio green and white colors. The beauty of pattern, composition and tonality of the painting, glaze clarity bring this ceramic décor to the best samples of majolica incrustations of the 14th century.

Seemingly very modest and small was the mausoleum of Pakhlavan Makhmud, poet, national hero who died in the first quarter of the 14th century. Fame aureole of this hero, who supposed to be patron of the city, attracted admirers. Around his mausoleum was constructed a whole cemetery with many family tombs.

At the beginning of the 19th century construction of the tomb of Khiva rulers was started near that complex. To Pakhlavan Makhmud mausoleum were added some buildings and graves of earlier died khans moved there.

In 1825 interiors of all premises of Pakhlavan Makhmud complex were incrusted with majolica with typical ornament for Khiva and domes covered with sky-blue tiles. Greenish-glaze gleaming dome of the mausoleum attracts attention from a distance. Splendid majolica of inner décor of Pakhlavan Makhmud complex puts it in one line with outstanding architectural monuments. In the beginning of 20th century in front of the mortuary complex were erected other constructions and ayvan on wooden carved columns.

Unusual architecture of Friday mosque in Khiva - Juma mosque built in 18th century. Brick dead walls without segmentation and decoration form a building sized 55х46 m. The ceiling is supported by 212 wooden columns, 16 of them refer to 11-14 centuries. Unique carving decorates their bodies and chapitels. Peculiar composition of the mosque: dead walls and flat ceiling create big but low dimension of the building adjoined by contrasting high-broached minaret (18th century). The mosque with its minaret and a few nearby madrasa form the square next to main road of Ichan Kala.

One of most vivid places in Khiva was the square near eastern gates Palvan Darvaza. Here in 13th century were erected bath houses of Anush Khan and one-floor building of madrasa of Khodjamberdybiy. In 1804 - 1812 years two-floor building of Kutlug Murad Inak madrasa in front of Khodjamberdybiy madrasa. Madrasa had 81 khudjra and was considered to be one of the biggest construction in Khiva. Its portal with five-sided niches and alabaster stalactites decorated richer than facades of early-constructed madrasa of the city. Corner towers with lanterns decorated with glazed and terracotta tiles with stamped patterns. Тympans of two-floor galleries are full of majolica. Interiors are almost without decoration. In spite of large size madrasa of Kutlug-Murad-inaka do not represent monumentality peculiar to many Bukhara memorials. It simpler in planning and dimensional composition and poorer in decoration.

In 1806 long gallery with shopping area roofed by domes was added to Palvan Darvaza gates. Trade life of the city was concentrated near the gates locking boisterous street during Allakula Khan’s ruling (1825 - 1842). Here, wall to wall, were constructed new and new buildings. The density of construction was so high that some of them stood out of Ichan Kala walls. So, for instance, city wall was destroyed for placement of Allakuli Khan madrasa. Its aligned fragments were used for the basement of the new building with fixed ramp dividing madrasa of Khorjamberdybiy into two parts like saddle-bag-khurdjum. Thus it was called “Kurdjum”. The building is of small height and does not shield monumental main facade of Allakuli Khan madrasa with well-propotioned portal. In its outside decoration prevails majolica.

In the first half of 19th century in Khiva during Allakuli khan’s ruling trade boosted. Vivid and miscellaneous (including slave market) bazaars located near eastern gates and behind them. Around Palvan Darvaza was erected caravan house standing out of Ichan Kala walls like madrasa. To its main facade was added roofed gallery - passage (tim). In the complex of buildings near eastern gates Palvan-Darvaza in 1830-1838 was constructed Palace of Allakuli Khan - Tash Hauli. Whole building was burnt-bricked. High walls with towers and gates similar to fortress constructions. The Palace consists of a few premises of residential and official use, connected by yards. Among them-harem, mikhmankhana for Khan’s reception, arzkhana - court, auxiliary and staff rooms, passages. The complexity of the plan can be explained by the diversity of time in construction of palace buildings. All ayvans facing the yard are georgeously decorated: walls covered with majolica incrustation, wooden columns and their marble bases -with carving, wooden ceilings - with paintings. Folk ornamental traditions were widely applied here. This is the way of chain locked near Palvan Darvaza gates: Palvan Darvaza Gallery, Allakuli Khan’s madrasa, tim, caravan house, on the other side of the square - Tash Khauli,, Kutlug Murad Inaka madrasa. In the south the square was bounded with small building Ak mosque surrounded from 3 sides by ayvan (1838 - 1842). Behind the mosque there was bath house of Anush Khan (17th century) deeply embedded into the ground with jutting out domes. The complex of all constructions was built upon the arising vital necessity. In outward appearance it is not perceived as whole art ensemble but still differs with picturesqueness of architectural masses and rich variety of silhouettes. Ichan Kala also has other ensembles. So, to the south of Kunya Ark 1851 - 1852 years was built Amin Khan madrasa, in 1871 to the east of Kunya Ark - madrasa of Seyid Mukhammed-Rakhim Khan II. Both of them formed centers of two architectural ensembles. Amin Khan Madrasa - is biggest in Khiva. Unfinished minaret with 14,2 m in diameter, was only constructed to 26 m height, that’s why called Kalta minor, i.e. Short minaret.

Side facades of the madrasa revived by stanza arcade on the second floor. In façade corners there are towers with apertures on the top, common feature for architecture in Khiva, belts of green glazed bricks and domes incrusted with same bricks. High portal of the main façade is decorated with majolica and in colored glaze-bricked patterns. Minaret is geometrically ornamented with belts of colored bricks.

In 1910 году Islam Khodja built the tallest minaret in Khiva (about 50m) overtopping all minarets in Ichan Kala. There are small madrasa and mosque near the minaret. The minaret incrusted by special radiating brick interchanging with belts of multicolored majolica. Mentioned architectural monuments don’t include all wonderful constructions in the city. In numerous buildings, although not unique, reflected structural and art principles of Khiva construction. The most valuable part of it is represented in folk traditions decoration: wood carving and majolica incrustation. Monumental constructions in outskirts of Khiva, Dishan Kale (outer part of the city) such as the Palace of Nurulla Bai, not common for this part of the city. As opposed to Ichan Kala, here so much water and greenery. Numerous mass residential construction featured in an interesting dimensional composition where ayvans act as necessary component. Columns, bolsters, doors and other wooden details often decorated with splendid carving. Folk housing here keeps and develops art traditions of Khiva architecture.

«House of Wisdom» in Khorezm - Mamun Academy.
At the end of 10 - beginning of 11 century in Khorezm reigned political stability, observed economic and social development, showed honors and respect to scientists. That’s was the main factor for many famous scientists of that time to move to Gurgandge.

After Abul Abbos Mamun ibn Mamun’s enthroning, khorezmshakh’s court continued to develop scientific traditions, scientists were paid special attention, required conditions created for their fruitful work. In ancient sources mentioned that at Mamun’s court were large groups of scientists and khorezmshah himself supported them.

In Mamun Academy boosted such sciences as astronomy, math, medicine, chemistry, geography, mineralogy, history, philosophy, language and literature.

On the solemn ceremony devoted to 2500 anniversary of Khiva, Islam Karimov, the president of Uzbekistan of suggested to revive Khorezm Academy of Mummuna, one of first Academies in the human’ history.

11 November, 1997 was issued a Decree by the President of the Republic of Uzbekistan” «On revival of Khorezm Academy of Mammun”. On November 9, 2004 was published the Decree “On celebrating of 1000-year anniversary of Khorezm Mamun Academy” by the Cabinet of Ministers of the Republic of Uzbekistan.

By the jubilee, the Academy had been equipped with modern facilities, established a few scientific labs. Particularly, in the lab of physical- chemical investigation was put into operation chromatograph that can help to research physical and chemical properties of soil, water and plants, define availability of micro- and macroelements, i.e. pesticides, herbicides, other poisoning agents.

Today the Academy has its own experimental base that also in successful use by scientists and students of Urgench State University and branches of Tashkent Medical Academy and Tashkent University of Informational Technologies. Here conducted following works: prevention of termite dispersion, investigation of soil properties, biologically active materials, experiments on receiving plant pigments.

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